You want a factory disk, not a pirated disk, as pirated disks are finicky at best. A known-working pirate disk may only work in a handful of drives, depending both of the type (and quality) of its Mylar media, and on what drive it was recorded.Mahjong
is a good, inexpensive disk to use for basic testing (e.g. if the drive works at all).
A visual inspection of it internally to see if the belt is intact would be wise first, as if the belt is broken, it isn't worth buying a disk to test it at all, and you'll need to have it serviced.This is the procedure:Tools required:
Phillips No. 2 Screwdriver, patience, due diligence, decent lighting, a clear work area, a tray (or safe place) to set aside screws.Notes:
Do not use any other size screwdriver, as it may strip screw heads. Be cautious when opening lid, as not to sever any wires; use caution and gently remove connecting wires so that you do not damage them. Ensure that you do not lose any screws. Disassembly:
- Turn Twin over and inspect bottom. Locate enclosure screws (six, if memory serves).
- Using a Phillips No.2 driver, remove enclosure screws, then set aside.
- Turn Twin upright, and gently remove top cover, being careful of attached cable.
- Gently remove cable connecting top-cover and switch assembly to mainboard.
- Locate the FDS mechanism and the four screws (with washers and lock-washers) in the lower-left-hand corner. Use Phillips No.2 drive to remove four retaining screws and set aside.
- Lift FDS mech out of place and remove FDS data cable.
- Fully remove FDS mech from enclosure.
- Turn FDS mech over to view its underside.
- Inspect underside of FDS, closely examining retaining bracket plate. There are four viewable screws: Only three secure the plate. The screw visible through the cut-out (hole) secures the I/O board under the plate.
- Using Phillips No.2 driver, remove the three screws securing the retainer plate and set them aside.
- Remove the bottom retainer plate and set it aside. Note that there is a notch and a small L-shaped brace that clips into the side of the FDS mech frame. When re-assembling, you will need to fit this on the outside of the FDS frame and position gently to align screw holes with threads.
- With plate removed, you will be able to see the inside of the FDS mechanism. Locate the brass motor pulley: This is what drives the FDS belt that surrounds the rotor. If the belt is intact, it should be readily visible and will be attached to the pulley. If there is an amount of black slime on the brass pulley, then the belt is broken and has melted and requires replacement.
- If the belt is intact, it may be viable, and you can proceed to test the drive.
- Replace retaining plate, first by aligning the notch to the brace: Remember that the brace should be on the outside of the FDS frame.
- Partially thread the two screws near the insertion-face of the drive, then align the screw hole for the third screw near the drive motor and partially thread it using a Phillips No.2 driver.
- Tighten screws individually, making sure not to strip or over-tighten them.
- Re-insert FDS data cable and re-align drive into Twin enclosure over mounting points.
- Using Phillips No.2 driver, replace four retaining screws (with washers and lock-washers). Secure them, but do not over-tighten.
- Be sure the LED card in securely seated.
- Set Twin enclosure cover partially in place, and re-attach cable to mainboard (connected to switch assembly).
- Close Twin enclosure lid, and turn Twin upside-down.
- Using Phillips No.2 driver, replace Twin enclosure screws, being cautious not to strip or over-tighten them.
- Turn Twin right-side up.