Hi everyone,
Be extremely careful when opening the tall konami cases for rom switches etc
Firstly, there are two sets of tabs along the sides that will VERY EASILY snap but are easily repaired with a small dab of super glue.
Secondly...
The PCBs are EXTREMELY brittle. I was sure not to apply leverage anywhere on the board, but apparently the stress on the case was able to transfer to the PCB and caused a hairline fracture just above some of the Pin connectors. I should be able to repair it with some kynar wire and patience but it is a huge disappointment for that to happen just after receiving a $60+ cart.
I was sure to test the board before dissassembly, and it worked fine. After... a completely different affair.
Thanks for the warning. I didn't know the game and looked it up. It looks awesome!
I'll add it to my "to buy" list :)
Its a fantastic game but my copy needs a few hours of careful soldering on the edge connector to repair it. Only got it this morning and it's already fucked RIP
Post Merge: October 16, 2015, 03:32:20 am
I have some good news. I pulled off the 'solder fu' i mentioned earlier and managed to reconnect the disconnected pins without interfering with the Famicom's cart slot.
IT LIVES!!!
(http://i.imgur.com/3LEih2I.jpg)
What it took...
(http://i.imgur.com/BfQhQm4.jpg)
Damn, that took a lot of traces. Glad you were able to repair it ;D
Thanks for the fresh hardware pr0n ;D
+1 for super glue.
IIRC only Konami used FR-2 for their PCB's. Also reliability of via's is very questionable ???
Quote from: 80sFREAK on October 16, 2015, 06:22:34 am
IIRC only Konami used FR-2 for their PCB's.
how come.
all the best stuff were made in Japan. :'(
so disappointing :-X
Quote from: 80sFREAK on October 16, 2015, 06:22:34 am
Thanks for the fresh hardware pr0n ;D
+1 for super glue.
Always happy to provide pics fresh from the iron. Technically it's not superglue, but a similar compound specifically formulated for use in plastics. Doesn't leave residue and cures almost instantaneously on rough surfaces.
Post Merge: October 17, 2015, 03:27:50 am
I can't seem to get the translated ROM working >:(
The original ROM works fine but for some reason it wont boot with the translated ROM on the flash chip. I keep getting a purple screen with garbled sections. I've verified the code on the chip is the same as the translated ROM (sans header of course) but for some reason It just wont work
Haha i wish this post had been made a week ago. Over the weekend i did the exact same thing. Cracked my pcb as well. I scratched away the coat above the traces and soldered them together by joining them with copper i pulled from 30 gauge wire.
Glad i was able to save my cartridge. I got the translation working. Did you double check the orientation of the 27c040? What's the speed?
Im using a small flash chip and an adapter. Bought some 27C040's yesterday cause i'm getting tired soldering and unsoldering surface mount shit.
Arkanix38, the way you've fixed the PCB will apply additional stress and pressure on famicom slot pins. Soldering points ain't that thin as copper layer on PCB.
that's sad :'(
What tools were you guys using to open your cartridges?? I've always used a vice grip tool and I've never damaged a PCB (the cartridge shells, not so much).
Quote from: famifan on October 19, 2015, 11:00:11 am
Arkanix38, the way you've fixed the PCB will apply additional stress and pressure on famicom slot pins. Soldering points ain't that thin as copper layer on PCB.
that's sad :'(
I'm sure he's fine on that as when the cart is inserted into the console the plastic case is probably preventing the PCB from going all the way in. His solder points are at the tippy top because of that I'm assuming. A good portion of the cart pins will still stick out when fully inserted regardless.
Im using vice grips and a thin flat bladed screwdriver(on the outside of the case). I've never had an issue with regular cart cases but for some reason the Lagrange Point case proved EXTREMELY difficult to take apart.
Where i've soldered to the pins clears the case. The green band is where the case rests on the pcb, so my wires attach below here.
Got my 27C040's and the ROM works like a charm
(http://i.imgur.com/WAq3Bj9.jpg)
Thanks fo the update!
Lagrange Point is an awesome game. I played it some hours in an emulator and just HAVE to do the translated cart. Just waiting for an affordable cart to come by ???
Just a quick update on this. If you are extremely careful when repairing your cart you can avoid interfering with the Pin Contacts. The concern raised by famifan is completely mitigated if you know what you are doing when soldering to the card edge connector.
The Famicom socket contacts most of the copper on the card edge, but a small amount of bare copper is left well away from the cart slot. If you have a steady hand and solder wick you can attach your mod wires ABOVE any point of interference with the connector as I did. Note this also comes in handy for adding address lines to SNES/SFC carts like Final Fantasy IV when translating, when the original carts don't route required address lines to the board from the card edge connector.
Ark