Here's my problem. I live in the US. I bought a famicom. It only get video on channel 93 and 13, the latter begin higher quality. 95 and 96 don't work on it. The RF thing inside was replaced along the line by someone before me. Could it be that? HELP ME I JUST WANT TO PLAY MY FAMICOM!!!!!!!! :'(
Your thread wasn't deleted, just moved to Technical and Repair Assistance.
Also you've got a satisfactory answer (set your TV to cable tuning), but you didn't comment on how that went.
If your TV isn't cable ready, you'll need to use a VCR with cable tuning capabilities.
Quote from: petik1 on September 21, 2009, 04:47:45 am
The RF thing inside was replaced along the line by someone before me. Could it be that?
Could you elaborate more on this?
petik1,
I still have 2 fully working famicom boards I could sell you if you wanted?! Neither has been modified. Asking $35 + ship for one.
Let me know and thanks!
-Carl
:) Thanks. But the answers i recieved didn't help. What I mean on th RF hing is that the original one has the CH1<>CH2 and the TV<>GAME switches on it, and apparently the previous owner replaced it with an automatic one or something
No thanks, my board works fine! ;D
Could you post pictures of the RF modulator board?
(http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs217.snc1/8430_103027499708735_100000044554777_89214_7755269_n.jpg)
This is his board.
Yup, that's mine. You can't really see it, but there aren't any of the switches on the original board. :-[
Quote from: petik1 on September 23, 2009, 04:44:01 am
Yup, that's mine. You can't really see it, but there aren't any of the switches on the original board. :-[
It may never work on an american television.
Excuse me, but I'm going to cry now :'(. But what could be wrong with it?
It's not a lost cause. You can always re-tune the RF modulator, but that's a very delicate procedure that should only be done after exhausting every other possibility. Much like FDS head tuning, by doing it wrong you'll only make matters worse and it might never work properly again.
Your RF modulator board seems very weird, not only because of the "external" voltage regulator. Clearly it doesn't have any switches on the back, but also it seems that there are no traces on the board to hook them up!
The only way I can continue to help you in an insightful way is by posting high resolution pictures of both sides of the RF modulator board so I can take a look at it.
Also, you might want to consider doing an AV mod. It's probably easier to put together a small transistor circuit and solder some wires here and there than to get the RF modulator working properly - and also the picture quality will be a lot better.
I'll get the pics up ASAP. But, I don't like modding. I kinow it sounds stupid, but if I mess that up, thats $100+ dollars down the crapper. Right now I guess I'll desribe what the ook up to the board looks like, but like I said, I'll get the picture. Ok, on the bottom of the board there is what looks like a clear plastic cover over a couple of wires going from the main board to the RF. That's it for now until I get those pics! ;)
EDIT: And could you explain how to retune an RF modulator? If that is a possibility, I wouldn't do it, but my neighbor has a job designing electronics, and has helped me previously.
If you can get your neighbor to help you out, have him do the AV mod to your Famicom. Since your Fami doesn't have any switches on the back, you can route the AV cables out of the system through the holes left by the missing switches. No drilling necessary!
Better picture quality, less hassle with hooking it up to modern TVs, and no case modding needed!
Yeah, I know, it ust feels, how do I say, dirty :-[ to change it. Couldn't I just replace the RF modulator?
Your famicom has already been changed from original, so I can't see why you have an issue changing it again. Also, an AV mod is completely removable if you decide you no longer want it. As much time as you've gone over this, you could have already modded it and be playing it right now. ::)
Well if you want to stick to the RF output no matter what, yes you can just replace the RF modulator board entirely, but you'd need to get one from another Famicom.
As for re-tuning the modulator, inside the metal cage there are lots of inductors (coils). Two of them adjust the video frequency and another one adjusts the sound carrier. You have to stretch/compress each of the video coils with a plastic screwdriver in small increments until you get the best picture quality, then adjust the sound coil until the sound comes on clearly. If you get a clear picture with no sound, maybe you can get away with adjusting only the sound coil until you get audio. I strongly advise against doing this if you don't know what you're doing and/or don't have the right tools. Don't just mess with every coil in sight - you WILL turn your RF modulator into a useless piece of junk!
BTW I'm planning on writing a tutorial about this if there's enough interest and if anyone can provide high quality pictures of the insides of the RF modulator box. Whatcha think?
Fine then. I 8)
OK. As to what you said about the AV, I know there a tutorial on he site, but could you explain to me how to fit the jacks through the switch "holes" in the back? BTW, I'm all for the tutorial! ;D
To avoid drilling holes and ruining your Famicom's pristine appearance forever (I'm picky about that, too) my idea was to take advantage of the holes left by the missing switches to route an AV cable from the inside of the system to the outside, for plugging into your TV. Here's a picture of my Famicom, this is what I'm talking about:
(http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/8353/dscn9658.jpg)
Mine came without that switch (hardwired into CH1), so I took advantage of the situation and used its hole for a non destructive AV mod.
Whatcha think?
Ok, that looks excellent! So what exactly did you do? Cut off the other end of an AV cable, and solder it on to certain areas on the board? And I see that the cable are yellow and red. Would white work instead of red, or are they both just the same?
White or red doesn't matter, they are the same except the plug color.
Ok, thanks. Cou
Quote from: petik1 on September 26, 2009, 07:52:35 am
So what exactly did you do? Cut off the other end of an AV cable, and solder it on to certain areas on the board?
Could someone answer that? ;)
Correct. Get an AV cable, cut off one end, solder the wires to the FC motherboard. You need to build a small video amplifier to get adequate brightness though. It's so simple that you can just solder the components together without using a circuit board. Also the components are really cheap and easy to find. You can replace the C1815 with any suitable low power NPN transistor.
(http://usuarios.lycos.es/dogbert/img/famavmod.gif)
Show this schematic to your neighbor. If he can build this, the AV mod is yours!
YES!!! Thanks guys your such a help. Ill check out the specs, supplies, the AV mod wep page, and i'm done! Thanks alot!!!
Do you think you could take pics of your video amp, the +5v, the audio input, and the Ground if you don't mind? Just somthing as a reference. 8) And what is that R3 75 on the diagram? I have everything found, but that.
My pics won't be of much use to you because:
- I've built the video amp in a printed circuit board, and
- There are several revisions of the Famicom motherboard, with different soldering points. My board might not be the same as yours.
R3 is a
75 ohm resistor, simple as that :).
If you need help with assembly, don't hesitate to post ;).
Excellent! What would you suggest? On a printed circuit board? Because I went by Radio Shack yesterday and saw one. Or would it be easer just to solder them together? :-\ And I don't know if this will help, but i've got a 1984 board. Where do I solder on the +5V and the audio input? I clearly see where it is marked VIDEO and GND on the board but nothng else familiar...
Here's a picture of a 1984 board similar to mine with minor differences but it shouldn't affect anything.
http://yfrog.com/4ffamicomboardrearzr8j (http://yfrog.com/4ffamicomboardrearzr8j)
Also, I'm having trouble finding that 75 OHM. I went to radio shack and no luck. Is this what I need? http://cgi.ebay.com/PACK-OF-100-75-OHM-5-RESISTORS-RADIO-SHACK-1-4-WATT_W0QQitemZ360173163796QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dbfe5514&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 (http://cgi.ebay.com/PACK-OF-100-75-OHM-5-RESISTORS-RADIO-SHACK-1-4-WATT_W0QQitemZ360173163796QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dbfe5514&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)
Quote from: petik1 on September 28, 2009, 05:40:25 am
Excellent! What would you suggest? On a printed circuit board? Because I went by Radio Shack yesterday and saw one. Or would it be easer just to solder them together?
I suggest just soldering them together "in mid-air" because of space constraints. I've built it in the smallest circuit board I could possibly etch and I had a pretty hard time fitting it inside the Famicom. It's a really tight fit in there ::).
Quote from: petik1 on September 28, 2009, 05:40:25 am
Also, I'm having trouble finding that 75 OHM. I went to radio shack and no luck. Is this what I need? eBay Link (http://cgi.ebay.com/PACK-OF-100-75-OHM-5-RESISTORS-RADIO-SHACK-1-4-WATT_W0QQitemZ360173163796QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53dbfe5514&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14)
Yes, those are exactly what you need, perfect for modding 100 Famicoms :P.
Quote from: petik1 on September 28, 2009, 05:40:25 amWhere do I solder on the +5V and the audio input? I clearly see where it is marked VIDEO and GND on the board but nothing else familiar
The audio point should be labeled SOU (as shorthand for SOUND). The +5V supply is a little bit trickier, you can pull it from lots of places, this is a good place if you've got this particular motherboard revision:
(http://www.famicomworld.com/Workshop/AVMod7.jpg)
Also there might be a point marked VCC, if there is you can get your +5V from it.
100 famicoms? Sweet... I guess then I'll order those resistors and wait for my neighbor to come back from vacation. You've been a real help, thanks! ;D :D ;) :) :P ::) I guess my last question is, is there like a rubber stopper to put on the cable right before the hole so that if I pull on it the solder doesn't break off? If not, I'll just improvise...
Tell us how it turns out afterward.
Quote from: cubelmariomadness on September 29, 2009, 04:37:41 am
Tell us how it turns out afterward.
Sure, I'll take pictures and put them here. :)
Quote from: petik1 on September 29, 2009, 03:44:30 am
is there like a rubber stopper to put on the cable right before the hole so that if I pull on it the solder doesn't break off? If not, I'll just improvise...
I just make a knot on the end of the cable :P.
OK, but I was looking for something like the rubber thing that holds the controllers' wires in place.
:) ;) :D ;D >:( :( :o 8) ??? ::) :P :-[ :-X :-\ :-* :'(
YAY!!! My resistors came yesterday, now I'm waiting for my neighbor to come from vacation. PS, I almost beat Super Mario Advance!
Ok. You guys are great. My negihbor made the video amp perfectly. Alothough, I can't play it because a few days ago, the soldering on the "gold" resistor broke off, and I soldered the wires in the wrong place. I found that out when I plugged it in. I'm lucky, it probebly was another chance at blowing my famicom up. :o Oh, well, I'll get that fixed tomorrow, but for now, thank you all, elspecially 133Mhz for the advice and the schematic. I'll get those pictures up as soon as its working!
EDIT: Ok, guys I got a new problemI have it working, butI only get sound! I get little waves that I can barely make out as the video. Any explanations?
Something is wrong with your video amplifier. Did you connect the transistor the right way around? Is your 5V supply correct?
ummm, I just figured out, that if I plug in the RCA and the RF cable, It works buetifully on VIDEO. I don't know how, but it works and thats all I care about. Any explanations?
Quote from: petik1 on October 06, 2009, 04:45:20 am
Any explanations?
Lack of a ground reference. The outer connector on your RCA cable isn't properly connected to ground, and when you plug in the RF lead you're completing the circuit, since the RF out is at the same ground potential as the rest of the system.
So what am I supposed to do? Solder the outer connecter to the GND? Both for the video and audio? Wouldn't that short it out?
EDIT: Yes, my neighbor just folded the wire back and taped it down to the cable since he didn't know what to do with it.
Quote from: petik1 on October 06, 2009, 09:09:48 am
So what am I supposed to do? Solder the outer connecter to the GND? Both for the video and audio?
Correct, that is required for proper operation. Electricity needs two wires to flow.
Ok, so I'll have three wires on the GND? One from the AMP, and two for AV cables. Oh, and I have two more easy mod questions later once i figure this out.
;)
Quote from: petik1 on October 06, 2009, 01:55:55 pm
Ok, so I'll have three wires on the GND? One from the AMP, and two for AV cables.
Indeed my good sir.
OK. I got it working. I guess there's not much else. Thank you so much 133Mhz. For everything. You guided me through this whole process and dealt with my stubborn attitude at the begginning with the mod. Now I have my famicom running bueatifully. I sat back and listened to the game Mother's awesome title music. Now, for my last few questions:
1. Is there a way to route a little LED light from the Power switch or anywhere to the other e xtra hole so I can tell if it's on or not?
2. Is there anywhere where I can get a thick tube with wires so I can extend the famicom controllers?
3. Is there any insulator I can put over my "gold" regulator so it doesn't damage my case? It's right under the power switch when facing up...
Quote from: petik1 on October 06, 2009, 02:46:54 pm
OK. I got it working. I guess there's not much else. Thank you so much 133Mhz. For everything. You guided me through this whole process and dealt with my stubborn attitude at the begginning with the mod.
No problem dude. I'm glad that you got your Fami working. Now enjoy it! ;).
Quote from: petik1 on October 06, 2009, 02:46:54 pm
1. Is there a way to route a little LED light from the Power switch or anywhere to the other extra hole so I can tell if it's on or not?
Oh yes. From the same points you got +5V and GND for the video amplifier you can connect a 330 ohm resistor in series with a LED (the size & color choice is yours) and put it anywhere you want :).
Remember that LEDs are polarized so it will only light up if connected the right way around.
Quote from: petik1 on October 06, 2009, 02:46:54 pm
2. Is there anywhere where I can get a thick tube with wires so I can extend the famicom controllers?
Get some spare NES/SNES controllers and use their cables. They already have the right amount of wires inside.
Quote from: petik1 on October 06, 2009, 02:46:54 pm
3. Is there any insulator I can put over my "gold" regulator so it doesn't damage my case? It's right under the power switch when facing up...
It's counterproductive to insulate the regulator's heatsink. As you may have noticed it gets quite warm and the purpose of that big lump of metal is to get rid of the heat as fast as possible, otherwise the regulator would overheat and burn out. Try to keep it away from the circuit board to avoid a possible short circuit.
QuoteIt's counterproductive to insulate the regulator's heatsink. As you may have noticed it gets quite warm and the purpose of that big lump of metal is to get rid of the heat as fast as possible, otherwise the regulator would overheat and burn out. Try to keep it away from the circuit board to avoid a possible short circuit.
Ok. I have it away from the board. Is there any chance of it doing damage to the case, or am I being an overprotective fami- parent?
No problem with the plastic casing ;).
OK. I suppose this is all wrapped up... Now, should I get a SFC or SNES in the future?
Get an SNES because with the snes you can drill out the nubs and make it regione free! (you can play sfc games on it) Wherea you cannot make an SFC region free.
Ok, but I cant find cheap one. I found a SFC with one controller for 18.89! I have the AV out and Power supply to match it and I want to get Mother 2.
Hello, i have some problems with my av mod...
I got a Famicom from a friend of mine who went to japan. I live in Italy and thus i have a PAL tv set
I found this little guide that shows how to do the mod: http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav2.html
it was helpful since my famicom has the same board design as the one in the pictures.
but there are some differences in the schematics:
- It says to use a 0.47µF condenser instead of a 47µF one.
- it doesn't contemplate the 75Ohm resistor
- it doesn't contemplate the condenser in the audio circuit
I also bought on of those universal power converters, and set it to 10V voltage with the negative pole in the central pin, as per the specifications I found here on Famicom World (http://famicomworld.com/workshop/tech/famicom-power-adaptor/). The amperage is higher than the original specifications but, as fa as I'm aware, that shouldn't be a problem!
Now, I think i did a mess! I soldered everything just like in this picture (that's just the Video signal):
(http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/hardimg/fcav2d.jpg)
But instead of the 0.47µF condenser, i used a 47µF one!
then I tried to hook the Famicom up to the TV, with a game in it. When I first turned it up, the tv showed a grey-ish screen (no color) with some glichy squares.
I tried then to turn it off and on again, but all I saw then an in all the following attempts was a black screen! Have I fried my Famicom?
Show us a pic of your actual mod. Are you sure you have the transistor hooked up correctly (and not reversed)?
actually, I was kinda upset and I thought I screw up the famicom so i unsoldered the mod... Anyway i checked the transistor many times before soldering it.
The thing that made me worry the most is deeing the first screen and then seeing black all the times i retried to turn the fami on...I'm no electrotechnician, so the thing I'm mostly concerned about is that I may have damaged the Famicom irreversibly... Can that happen, by just soldering the wrong components to the right spots?
One other thing that could've gone wrong is that maybe i overheated one of the resistors while soldering (it's like the second time i ever solder)... that would be a relief since it would mean that i just need to spend a couple of more euros to buy the new components..
Also, now i've found at least 4 different schematics for this same AV mod, all involving different condensers and resistors: the one 133mhz posted, the one i linked above, then this (http://yoshikiyoshiki.hp.infoseek.co.jp/AVFC.html), then this (http://jpx72.detailne.sk/modd_files/fc/avmod.htm) (wich also has different solder points)... I'm very confused :(
I'm not even sure if it's worth it trying again, since i don't know if my famicom is fried or not... what do you think?
Check the voltage on the cart connector and see if you get a reading. If so, you didn't fry it. I think it would be highly unlikely you would ruin it by incorrectly soldering the parts, but you could feasibly trip the fuse or burn out the voltage regulator. They're easy fixes if you did.
The mod on the site you linked to is pretty good and not too hard to follow. Although to me it looks like it'd be pretty easy to short-circuit something since there are all those ground points right by where you're soldering everything. I did roughly the same mod but used wires to connect to the points on the PCB so I could put the majority of it out of the way.
Just make sure the polarity is correct on your cap and the emitter, collector,and base on your transistor are correct, and you should be good to go. The board revision you have if you followed the version on the linked site is different than the schematic posted by 133.
Quote from: ericj on June 07, 2010, 05:05:40 pm
The board revision you have if you followed the version on the linked site is different than the schematic posted by 133.
*facepalm*
Ok. Which pin should I check on the cart connector? also... where's the fuse on the famicom board? @_@
Thanks a lot for the help... you have no idea how conforting this is to me! :)
The pinout sheet is here: http://benheck.com/Downloads/NES_Famicom_Pinouts.pdf
You'd be looking at pin #1 & pin #31. Basically on opposite ends of the cart slot.
The fuse is under the metal box. It's the rectangular black box thing on the left-hand side in the pic:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3243/2776370880_76ca50169a.jpg)
I am very interested in a tutorial with high res pictures that show how you can adjust the video inductor coil for optimal picture quality. I have a theory that adjusting the RF coils and insulating the traces for video will significantly reduce the vertical line problems. I wrote a post on retro gaming roundtable regarding how I did this to one of my famicom top loaders and significantly reduced the vertical line problem, although now there is a bit if "swimming" noise and I have not found the time nor means to correct this swimming issue.
http://www.digitpress.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1746754&postcount=25 (http://www.digitpress.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1746754&postcount=25)