Famicom World

Family Computer => Famicom / Disk System => Topic started by: brutalex1935 on March 16, 2011, 02:10:53 am

Title: Famicom HVC-001 controller 1 problem
Post by: brutalex1935 on March 16, 2011, 02:10:53 am
Hello, I have a weird problem with my famicom. ( just in case - It has Nintendo 1988 copyright sign on its board, but on the case it says that it is made in 1983). I have PAL TV at  home and was unable to play with RF cable, so I AV modded the famicom. None of the complicated ways worked out for me, so at the end I just soldered RCA wires right to the board where it says A V. Now I have very clear video and fairly good audio signal, but the problem is that the controller 1 all the time keeps pressing the d-pad buttons by it self and very, very fast like some kind of turbo button would be activated. I cleaned the board from dust, disconnected the controller 1 and when I switch it on without controller, there is no problems. Then I connected it back again and it still keeps pressing the d-pad. I don't know how to fix this. By the way, I opened up controller, cleaned it from the dust, still nothing.
Title: Re: Famicom HVC-001 controller 1 problem
Post by: jpx72 on March 16, 2011, 03:18:04 am
It looks like the problem is only in the controller or it's cable. Try to measure the cable if it's not damaged/broken.
Title: Re: Famicom HVC-001 controller 1 problem
Post by: Xious on March 17, 2011, 05:04:05 am
The 4021B shift-register may be toast. It's possibly also an internal issue on the FC logic board...  :bomb:
Title: Re: Famicom HVC-001 controller 1 problem
Post by: tappybot on March 17, 2011, 05:32:49 am
I had a similar experience with a gameboy color someone gave me that they picked up in a junk section.

Every button on the device was acting like it was on turbo, including start and select...   Strangely, I tried it recently, though with a different game, and it didn't seem to be doing any of that.  I was pretty sure it was a system fault, but could it have been the game in that case?   I haven't investigated further yet.


Anyway, I'm sorry, I have no idea what your problem might be.  :blinky:
Title: Re: Famicom HVC-001 controller 1 problem
Post by: fredJ on March 17, 2011, 05:54:36 am
I had a problem with a controller once. There was dirt (oxidation or something) on the circuit board of the controller that needed to be removed.
Title: Re: Famicom HVC-001 controller 1 problem
Post by: Xious on March 18, 2011, 11:14:34 am
I've seen that before, but he said he already cleaned it. If he was in the US, I could sell him a replacement controller at little cost, but it looks as if he's in Latvia, and the freight costs would be more than the part.

@brutalex1935: What does Controller II do? Is it the same?  :bomb:
Title: Re: Famicom HVC-001 controller 1 problem
Post by: brutalex1935 on March 20, 2011, 05:42:18 pm
I tried almost everything. I also noticed a few things. When my original controller 1 is connected to the board, AC adapter gets very hot quickly. When controller is removed - everything seems just fine, adapter doesnt get hot. I cut off the Famicom controller's wire and according to schematic I found in the internet, I connected that wire to another clone system controller. Now this controller seems to be working fine with my famicom, except for controller's left d-pad button. It does the same function as "start" button - pauses the game
Title: Re: Famicom HVC-001 controller 1 problem
Post by: 133MHz on March 20, 2011, 05:47:51 pm
Seems like your controller has a busted 4021 or a frayed cable causing an internal short circuit.
As for your second problem, that's usually linked to mis-wiring of the clock and latch lines.
Title: Re: Famicom HVC-001 controller 1 problem
Post by: brutalex1935 on March 20, 2011, 06:41:38 pm
OK, very big thanks for the advice, now I just want to run one final test, but first I need to know is this correct:

Famicom controller wires

RED = STROBE (is this same as latch?)
ORANGE = DATA
YELLOW = CLOCK
WHITE = +5V
BROWN = GND

?

p.s.

can I use front 15pin connector for the controller 1 instead of using one on the board? because some clone systems can do that