I found this peace of junk "Millennium" :D this is even worse then "original" terminator/ending man :D
notice the missing screws and the FAKE A/V !!! :fire:
in the first picture I am using RF
Can some figure out where to solder those fake V/A outputs?
I can post scans of the PCBs
Lol, this black piece of crap was widely known here in Poland as "Terminator" famiclone console, the worst of its kind << to celebrate this, we have this competition each year at FamiCON convention, that one who can take the longest throw with this garbage - wins the compo :crazy:
I agree this video "solution" is stupid. I can see 2 tracks are connected together for no reason, although I'm completely unable to inspect anything. Definitely provide the PCB scans of both sides
Quote from: MaarioS on June 28, 2017, 01:47:54 pm
I agree this video "solution" is stupid. I can see 2 tracks are connected together for no reason, although I'm completely unable to inspect anything. Definitely provide the PCB scans of both sides
Here are the scans :)
Ah OK, now I see much more and actually no wires are connected together. It is still very hard to inspect and you will need a multimeter. I still believe the entire AV circuitry is still there
At first TRY connecting the wires as shown in the picture and insert the audio-video RCA cables to your TV and if it doesn't work then try reversing the RCA cables and tell if you see anything:
http://i.imgur.com/1ljoIJk.png
(http://i.imgur.com/1ljoIJk.png)
By the way, I can't believe these shitty black "terminators" are so cheap they don't even have AV connections now...
Quote from: MWK on June 27, 2017, 12:02:38 pm
Lol, this black piece of crap was widely known here in Poland as "Terminator" famiclone console, the worst of its kind << to celebrate this, we have this competition each year at FamiCON convention, that one who can take the longest throw with this garbage - wins the compo :crazy:
I had a famiclone like famicom expansion port in the front and integrated joypads with 3 PCB like this shit, but this famiclone was even worse !!!
1 Fake V/V again
2 Fake DC input (missing negativ middle pin) !!!
3 Fake cartridge connector (2 cut pins invisible from the bottom side of the PCB) !!!
but I did not take pictures :( to show this CHINA madness :DD :crazy: :crazy:
Post Merge: June 29, 2017, 06:19:02 am
Quote from: MaarioS on June 29, 2017, 05:56:47 am
Ah OK, now I see much more and actually no wires are connected together. It is still very hard to inspect and you will need a multimeter. I still believe the entire AV circuitry is still there
At first TRY connecting the wires as shown in the picture and insert the audio-video RCA cables to your TV and if it doesn't work then try reversing the RCA cables and tell if you see anything:
http://i.imgur.com/1ljoIJk.png
(http://i.imgur.com/1ljoIJk.png)
By the way, I can't believe these shitty black "terminators" are so cheap they don't even have AV connections now...
Thanks ! I will try it just now and post the resolute :) I guessed that are those pins but, if it worked this mean that the hole brad is dedicated for RF only hah and AV is directly from the middle PCB , wow :)
I can not believe that they waste the 2 RC jacks only to full us :o that and they designed intentionally the PCB this way! WTF man!!!
BTW now days the famiclones do not have RF only AV/V to be cheaper becouse RF elements are a lot and no one use RF functionality anyway :P you do not even know on what channel they are configurated
RED is AUDIO
ORANGE is VIDEO
but look the poor image (the second picture) :fire: >:(
The first screenshot is from RF
Post Merge: June 29, 2017, 07:28:29 am
This is still a good clue so far. I expected the picture to be shitty anyway because it's completely unprocessed. To get the clear picture, you should test the board with a multimeter and check where it is processed step by step and connect every point to the RCA jack and test it. Here's how you should do it:
1. Check the PCB tracks
2. Jump by 1 component
3. Solder a wire between the component point and RCA jack
4. Test the picture/audio. If it still is bad then repeat steps 1-4
Here are the pictures with instructions:
http://i.imgur.com/Q28kz4S.jpg
(http://i.imgur.com/Q28kz4S.jpg)
http://i.imgur.com/MR0fQsa.jpg
(http://i.imgur.com/MR0fQsa.jpg)
I hope it is understandable. The clear video is always somewhere before RF so you should find it ;) . Maybe there will be needed some cap/diode/resistor to get 100% clear AV but I don't think so, this is Chinese terminator
By the way, is the audio good?? If it is not then do the same for audio
I just do that, before see your pictures THANKS! ! no picture at all! after the first resistor on your example, and on the second no picture (on the this transistor) ether :fire:
The sound is ok but on the title screen is humming .
Shit china rubbish :D haha I can not believe that they do this!
BTW
If I am on Chanel with the RF and connect Video pictures go black (RF) when disconnect the RC jack from video RF is on again !
I came across another terminator 2 and again with not working AV ports, this time there are missing elements WTF
If you do proper two-stage video amplifier on two transistors like in Famicom, the video signal will have really good quality.
(http://obrazki.elektroda.pl/6911473800_1500990363_thumb.jpg) (http://obrazki.elektroda.pl/6911473800_1500990363.png)
thanks :) I actually tit the mod, but the simplest one :) by 80s FREAK and JPx72
so now it works, but look the resolute :) notice the glitched sound :crazy:
I recorded the video with video capture PCI card :)
https://youtu.be/2YLSCRzsiqk
another junk with the same power PCB !like the last one this time there are all elements and AV and RF works , but there is new thing ::crazy:
just see the picture! :o
The black and white picture was from a bad X-Tal ! So i replaced it and now I have Color!!! 8)
Interesting is that this NOAC can be modded by soldering 2 pads together on the PCB so it can run in 50Hz (default) or 60Hz now in color no need to replace 26.601712MHz with 21.477272 MHz .X-Tal!
So this thing can run even on PAL TVs in Color on 60Hz!!! :D Cool!
8) :star: :gamer: :crazy:
When properly `upgraded` (install missing element, make good video amplificator), those consoles can output audio/video of the quality much better than any chipped ones.
Dendy mode/NTSC switch can be installed but at least on my TV just switching to 50Hz produces buzzy image, proper way is to install two crystals.
some of those NOACs can not mod to switch between 50Hz an 60Hz , there are a pads but nothing happens, for example this peace of junk have very very poor image quality even with different power A/V RF PCB or added transistor amplifier mod by YOU and JPx72 , the quality stays the same shit just have a look :crazy: the problem lies in the main NOAC PCB ???
Here is a picture captured with capture card form the above already modded to be 60hz and in color NOAC
and this one I am talking about : just see and compare the picture qualities (On TV it looks just bad as here!
To eliminate those vertical bars, try adding 100uF cap between +5V and GND (pin 1 & 31 of cartridge connector).
BTW. Could you send good quality photo of tom & bottom layer of the PCB with cartridge connector?
Here are the pictures of the PCB , When I added 100mF cap between 30 an 31 pin here the hilarious resolute :D I triyed with 10uF and 100uF 1000uF same black lines with all of them :crazy:
EDIT:
my bad I was touching the cap between 30 and 60 pin , not 1 and 31 !
the funny thing is that only pin 30 give my 5 volts , but pin 31 nothing, it even is not connected to the pin 30!
otherwise when I connected cap between pin 30 and a ground picture was no changed mach , slightly reduced vertical lines :crazy:
http://romlaboratory.dbwbp.com/romlab/famconn.gif
Unfortunatelly i don't see anything because all neccesary tracks are hidden under blu capacitor in bottom layer. But there is place to solder PNP transistor (Q1) + one missing resitor that could help
Pin 31 is used to detect if external cartridge is present (when shorted to +5V) and thus deactivate internal game.
Quote from: krzy on November 24, 2018, 12:17:44 pm
Unfortunatelly i don't see anything because all neccesary tracks are hidden under blu capacitor in bottom layer. But there is place to solder PNP transistor (Q1) + one missing resitor that could help
Pin 31 is used to detect if external cartridge is present (when shorted to +5V) and thus deactivate internal game.
thanks here is another picture to see those traces
Strange thing is that pins 1 and 31 are together in clone before this, that I fixed color and modded to 60Hz have integrated games too.
Where to solder and what kind of PNP I have to add and what resistor :) ?
EDIT: Oh I so the bridged 2 of 3 pins Q1 right? I see other missing R 7 and C 7,
What do you thing about J1 and J 2 I tried any combination between them for 60Hz mode but nothing :(
Oh again EDIT I so the missing R5 , so C7 and R7 are not impotent they are for the integrated games.
Post Merge: November 25, 2018, 03:32:40 am
I made some measurements and tracing the tracks :o
how to solder the PNP transistor and R5 how many ohms ?
On the power A/V PCB video blue wire is going directly to the base of Transistor 945 think , the collector is 5V
QuoteStrange thing is that pins 1 and 31 are together in clone before this, that I fixed color and modded to 60Hz have integrated games too.
There at least four of ways that console can detect if external cartridge is present (and each clone can potentialy use diferent one). All of them consist of checking if those 2 pins are shorted by the cartridge:
*1 or 16
* 30 or 31
* 45 or 46
* 48 or 49
--
1. Remove C6
2. Remove jumper at Q1
3. Install PNP transistor (like A733, BC557, BC327 - just check the proper sequence of legs):as shown below:
(https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/6370060500_1543169959_thumb.jpg) (https://obrazki.elektroda.pl/6370060500_1543169959.png)
4. Those jumpers are for 50/60Hz VIDEO and 21/26MHz crystal switch. If they don't work, the console might don't have this feature.
;D :D :star:
WoW massive improvement! thanks very mach!!!! :fire:
See now and before!
So this is that kind of your 2 stage amplifier :fire: 8)
I am using 2N3906 p-n-p
Here is that peace of ""ART :crazy:
:-[ thanks man now I can play with this console
BTW the beach menu VER 1.2 here is the exactly that from my chilhood!
But my first clone from about 1994 back in a day was with very good picture quality even from the RF (it was shielded) and no vertical lines at all, If I remember the PCB was even the same but with no missing elements ;D
What is the voltage between GND and each of those small solder-pads?
Quote from: krzy on November 26, 2018, 03:20:44 pm
What is the voltage between GND and each of those small solder-pads?
Nothing - 0V between J1 and GND J2 and GND and between J1 and J2
I found the next big problem - glitched sound! :crazy:
take a listen:
https://youtu.be/hWEiAm7Ehzo
P.S
I am so glad that my clone back in a day was with perfect sound and picture!!! :bub:
If I had this peace of junk then, my childhood would be so miserable :'( :crazy: :gamer: >:(