Hi peeps, I recently aquired an old 1st version Famicom and im having lots of fun with it.
The only problem:
Some idiot had removed the SELECT button on the 1P controller. That means i cant select 2P options on many of the games.
Apparently it seems like no matter how much jabbing underneath with pointed objects wouldnt get the select function to work.
We all know that the controllers are handwired, so does anyone knows if the 1P controller can be replaced easily? Anywhere that sells replacement famicom controllers?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
I've seen a LOT of replacement controllers on eBay lately. Also, if you get a remote that can be plugged in, you can use THAT as the one player remote.
Hello! thanks for the reply... ;D
Do you mean plugging in a third party remote into the 15pin port (at the front panel)?
Would that solve my problem?
Yes, that is indeed what I'm talking about. :)
I know of some controllers that you can plug in that, and they act as the one player remote. You can press select on that. :) Some remotes look a lot like the Famicom remote. A Hudson Bee turbo remote controller I have looks VERY much like the Famicom's actual controller.
The controllers on the Famicom are real easy to replace. Just unscrew and take off the bottom. Unplug the old controller, plug in the new one. Screw it back together and there ya go.
hi featherpluckin!
thanks for the insight.... i guess that means there wont be a need for soldering right?
Dummy proof plug out and plug in after unscrewing the famicom?
Cos im pretty much hardware-dumb.
But i hope to improve on that though. ;D
Yup. No soldering. The Famicom controllers' connections aren't much different than the NES controllers' connections, only for the Famicom the connections are inside and smaller.
I'm an idiot who would somehow screw that up, so I always go the chicken way out and buy controllers that go in the middle slot, lol.
Hows it going everyone.
Im new to the site. Anyways. I just picked up a famicom off ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150038185387&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=005
It was really dirty. so i took it apart and cleaned up the case and cleaned the board with circuit cleaner. But i suspect it doesn't work.
I pluged it in to my us power plug casue its pretty close in power and just to see if it worked and it doesnt seem to. ??? Also it has an rf and my other famicom (pirate) which is the same thing as a famicom but black has av out puts and ive never had the rf work on it.
So now i dont know what to do. I have a disk system i also just got a disk system (with a broken belt) but it powers on, on my pirate system and not with the famicom, thus i know my famicom isnt working. Does anyone know if its a big deal to have the original famicom av adapter as well as the rf. Ive read places that you don't need ither. Let me know if anyone has some ideas about this.
Thanks!!! ;D
Welcome Nickv,
Your problem may very well arise from the broadcasting signal. The Famicom broadcasts on channels 96 and 97 on a US TV set. for it's settings of "ch01" and "ch02" respectively. Try those channels on your TV.
An NES RF adapter works fine, but an NES AC adapter would fry a Famicom due to the fact that the NES AC adapter outputs AC and not DC, which is what the Famicom requires. I use the "HVC-002" official AC adapter on my Famicom, and it still runs a little hot.
This is a pic of my adapter:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v498/8-bitcultmember/Random/FAMIDAPT.jpg)
It would be best to use this adapter in conjunction with a step down converter such as one of these:
http://www.voltage-converter-transformers.com/japanese-up-down-transformers.html
The "VT200J - Japanese Up/Down Transformer" that they sell for $24.99 , should work fine.
I am considering buying one myself.
I hope that this helps you out.
where is the potentiometer (speed ajustor) and where is the head ajustor mechanisms?
The motor adjustment is on the Motor. You will see a hole with a rubber cover and a +/- sign etched into the motor. The motor is on the left side of the photo below.
As for the head adjustment screw, it is located to the left side of the head (Photo 2) . In the photo below, it is the adjustment screw in the middle.
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/chimyfolkbutter/Famicom/FDSScrew.jpg)
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/chimyfolkbutter/Famicom/FDSHead.jpg)
Be careful with the head adjustment screw. Once it is stripped. Your drive is done.
What problem are you trying to address?
-CFB
ah im just working on some read errors. 22 23 and 27's. The hole with the rubber cover, how do I make the drive speed slowest?
Is your belt good? That's always the first place to start. If you do start poking around w/the motor speed, make sure to do very small turns and then test after each one.
my belt is fine. but how do
I ajust motor speed
You see, I bought the FDS. The belt is intact. I tried my games. The only one I got to work was doki doki panic. I also have metroid, kid icarus, and nazo no murasamejou. Ive been messing the the start position of the gears and got metroid and nazo to load but not the others. Im gonna get a better wrench and see if not being able to tighten it is my problem, because it seems to be slipping. I also want to know if ajusting the motor speed or head position can help with getting them to load. The head seems risky so right now im looking at motor speed but I dont know how to ajust that
anyone know how?
also, how do I mess with the head screw to ajust it properly
Chimy is sure to answer. :)
yeah I hope he does
Before you do anything, I would suggest that you align the spindle correctly to the head, JFgoods has outlined the belt change and adjustment at http://jfgoods.net/disksystem.html. The steps are not numbered in his article. However, the procedure starts at this slide:
"Here comes the most important part.
First, slide the head so you will get a view like shown on the left."
Once you have that spindle adjusted then start adjusting the motor speed.
If you have a famicom copier, you can use a utlitiy like CopyMaster to find the speed of your drive. If you don't have the famicom copier/copymaster setup, you have to manually adjust the speed (in small increments).
As I mentioned before, the motor has a +/- sign etched into the motor. You can use a slotted screw drive to make the adjustment. Use the screw driver to turn motor adjustment screw clockwise or counter clockwise. The direction corresponds to the speed. You have to do trial and error in terms of adjusting the motor speed.
What this means is that you have to adjust the speed, then load a game. Keep trying this till the game loads correctly. If the game loads then try another game. Once you are satisfied this works for all games, then you have the proper speed.
Usually in Hong Kong, technicians adjust the speed to 5 for optimum speed. But the important thing here is for the game to load.
Only adjust the head as a last resort.
-CFB
the motor ajustment screw is where? the rubber thing?
come on cfb elighten me as to where this screw is ???
ok let me be more specific. I know where the +/- sign is. I know theres a hole with a rubber thingy. but what the hell do I do with this information to move the drive speed
Stick a small slotted screw driver into the hole with the rubber cover. Gently turn the screw driver till it catches on the motor adjustment screw. Once you turn it, you are adjusting the motors' speed. Technically, you are adjusting the motor's potentiometer.
The +/- sign means this. + = increase motor speed (which is clockwise or counter clockwise turn of the screw.). - = decrease motor speed (which is clockwise or counter clockwise turn of the screw.) I forgot which direction is which. Just check the motor.
-CFB
Do the alignment that chimy posted, I wouldn't start messing with the head at all. As mentioned previously, use very small turns when adjusting the motor speed. It sounds more like an alignment problem, though.
I got the thing to work after messing with the alignment and speed. kid icarus is broken tho ill have to ask toysonlinehk for a refund. everything else is great tho. trust me i know its not the fds i tried everything that game just wont load
Was it sealed and new? There's a good chance the disk has demagnetized over time.
no it wasnt sealed and new. it has a scratch on the disk plate tho so that might be it
Ah, that seems odd, as he's a good seller and I imagine he would've tested it. Best of luck to you, if he can't do anything for you, I'd be willing to re-write that disk for you at home here if you pay for shipping both ways.
if you re-wrote it it wouldnt fix the scratch on the disk tho would it, cuz thats kinda a problem and i think its causing the 23 error. every other game i have works great but that one just wont load. I never got it to work throughout my 2 days worth of testing my fds so im pretty damn sure its busted
Well it depends, a lot of my HK pirate FDS disks have wear and tear on the magnetic media itself.
ah shit nevermind I havent fixed it. hmmm....
I tried hooking mine in today, and the video is just fantastic, the audio is good, but there is an audible buzzing noise that I hear with the audio. Any solutions? I'm using the Famicom Adaptor and such.
Thanks.
UPDATE, it must be the AC Adaptor, because my pirated system works. Any solutions?
uh, what about the famicom?
I tried the pirated adaptor with the Famicom...it worked fine. It's the official Famicom adaptor it seems. :/
Can a Super Famicom, or an NES one work for it?
super famicom is the same adaptor
Quote from: kite200 on February 06, 2007, 06:25:46 pm
super famicom is the same adaptor
I think my adaptor is bad...I hope I can get the Super Famicom to work...let alone FIND the Adaptor. :P
Thanks! :)
Don't know what kind of connections you're using, but that happens with my NES. The NES is AV, of course, so if you're using AV be sure to plug in the A and the V but not the RF audio connection. That takes the annoying buzz away from the NES.
Quote from: FamicomJL on February 06, 2007, 04:14:20 pm
I tried hooking mine in today, and the video is just fantastic, the audio is good, but there is an audible buzzing noise that I hear with the audio. Any solutions? I'm using the Famicom Adaptor and such.
Thanks.
LOL Mine does this when the controller II microphone volume is not turned completely off. It seems as though the Famicom that I have now is more picky about this than the old one that I had.
Hello and good evening :
First of all congrats for this great site/forum and the people who make it possible, is great to see that there's still people around the old consoles world, keep up the great job! :)
I would like to ask you about a problem that I have with a Famicom HVC-002 Last time I used it (some 2 years ago) it worked perfectly but yesterday, after connecting it again, I saw that the output image was black&white with lots of noise/vertical stripes and no sound.
I first thought it would be an incompatibility with the tv (a LCD one) because with the old CRT one the image/sound were perfect.
The back of the console is like this one but mine doesn't have the CH1-CH2 switch:
(http://www.vidgame.net/NINTENDO/Nintendo/famicom/famicom_back.jpg)[/LIST]
The connection is RF from the output of the console to the antenna input of the TV via auto-swithc box. Have also tried to by-pass the switch box as suggested here (http://nfggames.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1663&st=0&#entry11096) with no good result.
I read that other possibilities would be:
- Using a RF Coax to 3 RCA and try but haven't found that type of cable (still looking ^^)
- Connect the RF cable from the Famicom to a VCR and from there to the TV (a friend of mine is going to lend me his VCR)
Please does anyone have any idea or suggestions of what can be happening?
Thanks a lot in advance :lol: and sorry if this kind of question has already been asked, haven't found any solution on the forum.
PS1. I'm from Spain so my tv is PAL not NTSC
I don't have a solution to your problem, because I'm not a techical buff, but I'll say your best chance of getting it to work might be to work with an older TV/VCR setup. Technology is moving so fast and leaving the Famicom behind.
I hope someone here has a suggestion for you.
Yeah my Famicom powers up and all but when I try to insert MOTHER in it the game doesn't boot! I tried with other games and all I see is a black screen with a huming sound! I opened it up, cleaned the contacts, cleaned the board and looked closely at it and still couldn't find the problem! If any one of you might know a solution or what the problem is, please help me!
PS; For those who don't know, the Famicom is the japanese version of the NES, and MOTHER is none other than the never released Earthbound Zero, which is, the greatest game on EARTH!
Ok not to sound like a jerk but considering this is famicom world everyone knows what a famicom is and everyone knows what mother is. Secondly, did you tune it to the correct channel? what channel are you using to view the games?
Quote from: kite200 on March 07, 2007, 05:01:25 pm
Ok not to sound like a jerk but considering this is famicom world everyone knows what a famicom is and everyone knows what mother is. Secondly, did you tune it to the correct channel? what channel are you using to view the games?
Well, sorry if I wrote that! I wrote this question for nintendocity.com first, but the only thing people replied were,''Famicom?'' or ''MOTHER?''. It just didn't help, so I simply copied the question and posted it on Famicom World, forgeting to erase what I added for nintendo city. As for the channels, I can see the system turn on on channel 8 and partially on channel 96.
You'll probably need an older television, as well. I'm screwed now, since I don't have any more old televisions...
im using mine on an HDTV.
Quote from: kite200 on March 07, 2007, 06:29:10 pm
im using mine on an HDTV.
Do tell me how! :P
And all this time I thought it was my new television...
well you plug the rf thing into the cable port and tune to channel 95....
Topics merged. :)
Quote from: kite200 on March 07, 2007, 07:07:24 pm
well you plug the rf thing into the cable port and tune to channel 95....
It works fine? I put mine on L2 or something and I get great picture but this horribly loud buzzing noise that overpowers then game's sound...
I recently bought it from Rosemary as a non working Famicom, but she only said that it had trouble to play games, so I thought it wouldn't be much of a problem and bought it so I could fix it. The system did not come with the orginal adapter, so I looked for the adapter information and made one using a SNES adapter and the tip of a NES adapter. But when I plug it in, i can see it partially turning on with only a black and snowy screen appearing . I opened up the console and noticed two of the chips towards the front of the console come very, very hot. I checked the voltage of the adapter, and instaid of outputing 10 volts, it outputs 13-14 volts! So what can I do to have the proper voltage and have my system working perfectly? ???
13v should still be fine, the chip that is getting hot is probably the voltage regulator. As I mentioned somewhere else, if you take 5 different adapaters that say they output a specific voltage, you will get 5 different results. Voltage regulators are forgiving on their input voltage. Snowy output is not the result of a power issue.
Edit: My Famicom has a lm7805 voltage regulator which can take up to 24vdc input.
My Famicom officially works. I figured out the problem. As you may know, I plugged the system in and it works, but has a loud buzzing. Well, turns out after waiting around two minutes while leaving it on, the buzz goes away. No idea on what it means, but it means that I get to play the Famicom again! Still can't find the Disk System's RAM cart though. :(
Is the buzz coming from the TV, or the system itself is making a buzzing sound?
I get a buzz, too, but mine comes from Controller II. It's the mic on there that, even when turned off properly, will buzz. I've found that if I whack the controller hard enough the buzz'll stop for a while. :D :-\ Think it's possible to replace Controller II with a second Controller I?
no, they're different. you need a new one.
Oh ok. I've got a few Famicoms, so I'll have to swap controllers.
Quote from: madman on March 11, 2007, 10:58:56 pm
Is the buzz coming from the TV, or the system itself is making a buzzing sound?
Television.
Sounds like a grounding issue, though I don't know why it'd go away after a few mins ???
I just tried to leave it on for a couple of mins, and still no image! Ohh what could it be!?
I don't know about you specific problem, but it took me several months to get my Famicom in working order. I had an 80s TV, which didn't help, since most back then didn't have any channels past 60ish. So, I got myself a newer TV with the ability to reach the 90s. I play my Famicom perfectly on channel 98, with the option on the back of the Famicom set to channel 1. I use RF. Works for me. Maybe yours is just a broken Famicom.
Hi,
After some surfing I stumbled upon this site, i hope some of you out there can help me.
I recently got a Famicon HVC-001 model (AV MOD) off of Ebay from some guy in Thailand. Upon recieving I connected it to my Sony Wega monitor (which can handle NTSC-J and the rest) and fed it with a Super famicom adapter.
Picture
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/154/422148061_ebcd407156_o.jpg)
When I turned on the system with "Armadillo" all I got was a humming sound and red bars scanning the screen. When I contacted the guy I bought it from he said:
"Some time it need to be put the some IC in console for help you play in Europe."
and sent the IC and instructions for placing it.
Picture
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/169/422145952_32233165e2_o.jpg)
From what I undestand I'm supposed to leave audio alone. Put the chip infront of video output and connect to ground B. Then reconnect former ground B wire to RF Ground.
Problem is however I haven't got a clou where I can find B. Video is yellow, audio is red and there's 3 brown cables going to unmarked points.
Picture
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/188/422147029_1e6211f6f1_o.jpg)
Picture
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/159/422143878_c67cbafaf1_o.jpg)
Picture
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/166/422145215_c802e7a743_o.jpg)
Can anyone help me connect this stupid IC? I mailed the seller repeatedly, but he ignores me.
Thanks
It looks like the B point will be the video ground from the original cable. I don't see where he had video ground originally hooked up, as there's not enough wires. This would be part of the problem of not getting a proper signal :) I've got the same mod done to my Famicom, I'll open it up tonight and look for you.
Is there anyway to fix a Super NES & Sega CD that not turning on..Can it be fixed if it was fryed
I'd need more information than that to figure out of it's fixable.
OK, so I looked at my modded Famicom and it appears yours is done wrong. See the below pic (I didn't take pics of mine, but I can if you wish).
(http://www.speakeasy.net/~sjmaks/FDS/fdsboard.jpg)
The red circle is where the video center pin wire should be hooked up. The blue pins are soldered together and there is where the video ground (outer part of the RCA plug) should be wired to. That should work fine for you. Let me know if you need help with anything.
Well first the Super NES
I have like a Dead Super R Type Board..It got erased, I try it again on my SNES, But like a dork, I put the board backwards to see if something, No light..
As for the Sega CD, I couldn't find my other AC for the Gen or the SMS, So I used a 12V AC. I had the 12V hooked up to the Genesis 1 & the Gen AC to the Sega CD, When I turned on the Genesis I heard a hum & white screen I turned it off, I hooked back up the Gen 2 with the Sega CD2..the light won't come on
I hope you could understand..
Can anyone identify what's going on with this mod? Got this Famicom with this mod and don't know what it's trying to accomplish. Looks like AV, but the cord coming out the back has only one end on it instead of both A and V.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/WeirdMod.jpg)
use a splitter, it should work.
So you're saying this is an AV mod, and if I buy a splitter, I should, in theory, get both A and V to work? I tried getting the Famicom to work through the traditional RF. Does the mod somehow disable the RF?
I'm not sure what kite means about using a splitter. Can you take a pic of the other side of that board? Is a new connector wired onto the back of the Fami?
It's hard to tell if the RF board has been altered from that tiny pic. That wire running from the RF board doesn't seem normal, I'm wondering if the mod has audio coming through the normal RF connector and video going through the other connector that the other 2 wires go to.
Quote from: kite200 on April 02, 2007, 10:25:05 am
if you had it with audio in the rf and rca carring video, then how would you get both to run at the same time?
I'm not sure I understand your question. I'm saying, it looks like there's a wire from that mod board to the center pin of the RF connector. If the RF board is completely disabled, this cable could contain the audio. The RF connector on the back of the Famicom is an RCA connector (on my Famicom anyhow). If that held the audio, he'd plug that into his audio input. If the other connector that was added held video, he'd plug that into his tv's video input.
It's hard to tell what's going on from the size of that picture, but they definitely fed a signal from the mod board to the RF RCA jack. I'd probably just mod it myself at this point, I'm not sure what's going on there.
I'll take some more pics in a little while and post them here. I'm not technical enough to know what the hell is going on. Thanks for the input so far.
oh ya, sorry madman, i forgot. but, I still think this mod is a mess and jc should just get a solder braid and get rid of it.
You're asking me to get technical? :o :D
haha, a solder braid (aka remover) isnt that technical. All im saying is whomever did this mod didnt realize there's a much simpler way to do things
Here's some more pics. I kinda of have an idea about what's going on, but any help solving the problem would be great. I'm looking into this splitter idea.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/DSCN0558.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/DSCN0560.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/DSCN0562.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/DSCN0564.jpg)
What's it say on top of the chip on the mod board?
M8608
LM
386N-1
So, I finally tried hooking up the Famicom to AV on my TV. And it works! Well, kind of. If I hook it up to V, there's an image -- clear and pretty -- and no sound. If I hook it up to A, there's no image and no sound. Another weird thing is that the Famicom doesn't work on any of the 90s channels or channel 1-4, but works on AUX. Any recs on how to get the A working?
Well, the only possible thing is that as I mentioned earlier, the audio is now being fed into the old RF out jack. You've clearly got composite video coming out that new cable, I'd try running an RCA cable from the RF out jack into your audio input. That's the only thing that seems to make sense, and based on that wire going to that jack, there's a good chance you'll get audio out of there.
The LM386 chip on that board is a super common audio op-amp. Pin 5 is the output, you can see if the wire is hooked to that pin through PCB traces, it's hard to tell from your pic. Do you have a camera that was made in the last 10 years and can take bigger pics? :)
The forum automatically resizes the pics. There's nothing I can do there. And my photographs suffer from improper lighting. But I can retake and link you to my photobucket account in a few. Let me see what I can do with the RF...
Nevermind the pics. You were right. The A comes from the RF. I hooked it up and wham bam there was sound. So, the extra cord and connector that was modded onto the Famicom is V and the RF is A. Interesting mod...it's cool to have a functioning AV Famicom. :)
Cool! I never saw that mod before, but it's pretty neat.
If you care for any high quality *large* pics of the mod so you can see in more detail what's going on, just let me know and I'll take some time to take some nice pics. It'd be nice to document it for the site since it just might be a unique mod.
Cool Mod ;).
I played around with the AV modded Famicom a bit more and noticed that the color is off a bit, like it's faded. Is this typical of AV mods? Any solutions?
It could be that where they tapped the signal it was a little weak. Probably no solution than to tap into the video signal closer to the source.
Maybe the problem is the cord used for the mod. It says "High Class Microphone Cord" -- that's for the V mod. Uh.
Nah, the cord is fine. It's probably just the signal. My fami is moded with cheap ass cable and looks great. Just invest in an AV fami and be done with it :)
Possible problems with my Disk system. I just acquired 3 famicom disk systems the other day. And I have about 5 games for the disk system, I have never used any of these before and I am new to the system. But when I put a game into any of the 3 disk systems I seem to be waiting a very long time for it load the game. What is the usual load time for a game? Is it over 8 minutes? I have a few other Ram carts I could try but I have yet to get an error message, they just seem to load forever and ever. I am running my disk systems with a famicom AV the white top loader model. The Famicom works great and I have played many games on it over the last few days. Please assist. I want to start playing my Super Mario Brothers 2 as soon as possible.
does it load at all?
It just says it is loading for as long as I am willing to leave it on. How long do they usually take to load a game like mario or zelda?
From my experience, the load time at the beginning isn't more than a minute, and during gameplay isn't more than 30 seconds. I don't know what could be wrong...open 'em up and see if the belts are ok.
Any recommended sources for a straight forward site for belt replacement? I aquired 3 spare belts just for such an emergency.
use jfgoods website. you can find his website by going on ebay and searching for belts then clicking the installation guide. it's a pain in the ass btw.
http://www.jfgoods.net/disksystem.html
The first couple ones you do will be a pain in the butt, but after that it's super easy. Just be sure not to lose anything while you are doing it.
Thanks a lot, if it works I will let you all know. I appreciate it. Doesn't look like fun, but I am used to fixing stuff that is unhappy, but usually I start with some knowledge of normal operation, not broken out of the box sort of situation. Again thanks.
Are you sure the belt is bad? Is it snapped? Did the FDS drive used to work?
The belt was bad in the first one I took apart so I think that was the major problem. I don't know for sure they used to work. But now I am getting 21 error. I will look further into some of the past posts for this but I think this is correctable. Thanks everyone for the advice. And yeah getting that belt changed was a pain the butt. It probably wouldn't break as much if someone made a belt made of kevlar or something stronger. I will try changing the belts on my other 2 disk systems in the near future.
Kevlar? ??? There's a reason that almost all belt drive machines use rubber belts instead of another material.
Question: What are the best identifiers of a dead Disk?
I can't seem to find a list of any specific codes that are good clues to figuring this out.
Thanks?
It doesn't load :)
I think it's better to say: It doesn't load on a working Disk System. :)
Well our current Disk Systems all had melted belts. We got one drive able to play some of our disks (see user chiaotzu's posts for the backstory), but Zelda 1+2 give 20-range errors.
I just wondered which error codes were most indicative of lost data. Although with Dracula 1+2 and SMB2j working just fine, we are thinking we may just have some dead Zeldas.
Usually 21, 22, 27 are belt/drive related. If a game loads initially and then craps out when it loads more data, or switches to side B, then it's probably your disks. I'll buy your dead disks if you want to sell :)
I don't really want to sell a couple games I just purchased. I'll first see if they work on my other two disk systems that are still in the middle of repair. If not then I will see about getting a refund through eBay, or getting them rewritten by a kind patron. If I were going to sell them I wouldn't like to sell them for any less then I paid especially if I can get a refund. And yes Zelda 1 does get the errors when I change sides but Zelda 2 doesn't load at all.
It might be your drive, then.
It might be but I doubt it. If I can get the other two disk systems to behave just the same as this one it says to me that the games are the issue not the drives. But I will know for certain tomorrow when I actually have some time to sit down and play with them and troubleshoot this issue fully.
Hello
I have changed the belt of my Disk System. With starting up a disk, I have a black screen and a message "Disk trouble error 22" juste one. And now only error 27.
Thank you for your answer :)
need to ajust motor speed. find the motor on the drive, and insert a small flathead screw driver into the rubber hole. move it a lil bit and then test. keep doing this until it works. that is all
My copy of Metroid gives me disk error 23. It is the only game I have for the FDS that gives me any sort of problem. Is there anything I can do?
Changing the belt often mucks up the calibration on the drive as well. I've had this happen on the first few drives I re-belted, but figured out the problem.
Disk error 23 is probably a bum disk. 21/22/27 all make sense for bad belt/calibration issues. 23 wouldn't.
there isn't anything wrong with the belt in my FDS because when I boguht it I bought it brand new. Paid an arm and a leg for it too.
I just thought you guys might like to know that chiaotzu got all 3 of his disk systems functional...kind of.
Two of them play Dracula 1+2 and SMB2j just fine, but will not load Zelda 1 or 2 properly (I believe Zelda 1 Side A loads but won't load Side B)
One of them plays SMB2j, Zelda 1 and Zelda 2 perfectly...but neither of the Draculas.
Maybe some more head tweaking or even potentiometer adjustment?
(*Edit for typo.)
i wouldnt have bothered with the head. its all in the potentiometer.
Quote from: kite200 on May 04, 2007, 11:08:05 am
i wouldnt have bothered with the head. its all in the potentiometer.
I'd strongly disagree with that, as would most people who've fixed a number of FDS drives.
http://www.jfgoods.net/disksystem.html (http://www.jfgoods.net/disksystem.html)
Do the part where he says "Here comes the most important part."
yeah, use jfgoods spindle ajustment. and use the potentiometer, thats how i fixed mine
Hi there !
A week ago, i buyed a Sharp Twin Famicom System;
there are a few modifications in the right corner;
Number one is a stereo mod which works very fine...
But there is another port there,
it looks like a Mega Drive / PC Engine RGB Mod...
i think it's for a rgb cable...
The strangest thing is this switch, i have no idea for what it is !
Why should someone add a switch to a Twin Famicom ?
(http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/6663/pic0137gg2.th.jpg) (http://img402.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pic0137gg2.jpg)
My other problem is that i have made the belt replacement from jfgood's (great page !) and i still get errors like 21 and 22... the belt works fine and the disk system runs smooth.
I have just two Disk Games; Puyo Puyo and a Konami cart, i think its a pirate (there is no nintendo logo on it)
What else can it be ?
The screened Error Messages come really fast on the screen, for me it looks like the disk system gets the error messages before it starts running the engine
thanks for you answer's and sorry for my bad englisch -Uroko
nobody ?
adjust the head and adjust the motor speed for the disk system. we have no clue what the mods do unless you show us the inside of the system
here is the picture of the inside;
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/9749/pic0004fc3.jpg
i did not get the disk drive back to work...
spindle adjustment and pontiometer have no effect :-( is it possible to replace it with another one ?
Do you have another FDS drive to test your Disks? You have to systematically narrow down the problem. When I first started repairing drives, I was troubleshooting with a defective disk. Of course I didn't know it was defective. I kept getting errors. When I tested with another disk, the drive worked. It was working all along. I learned my lesson.
Start with a good disk. Then start troubleshooting the drive. If you have done this then I apologize for the advice.
Or you could just buy another drive and replace it. That's assuming that your present drive is defective.
Good Luck
-CFB
is it realy possible to put a loose drive into a sharp twin fami ?
is the drive exactly the same ?
yeah its exactaly the same
thank god (and you ^^, thats great !)
Then i will buy a loose one and replace it...
I love this little Twin Famicom and would not have a normal famicom
any idea where i can buy a cheap, working, loose disk drive from a seller with real shipping costs; one on ebay has drives for 35$ and shipping is 50§ :-(
I need to find a seller with real, working disk drives...
uh, you might end up paying that much if you try to buy from yahoo auctions. might as well just pay for it
Or like was suggested earlier, just buy a Disk System and swap drives. Then resell the Disk System as broken.
Quote from: JC on May 19, 2007, 01:53:16 pm
Or like was suggested earlier, just buy a Disk System and swap drives. Then resell the Disk System as broken.
thats the cheapest way... i will try it
thanks
True, it really just a swap of the FDS drive. That's how I repair really damaged Twin drives if the belt replacement doesn't work.
-CFB
I finally plugged my Famicom into a tv with channel 96, and I can see it turns on with a perfect signal, but I am unable to play any games with it! Every time I put a cartridge in the Famicom, the only thing that appears is a gray screen with a buzzing sound. Controller 2 seems to be the cause of the buzzing sound on the tv, and when I put the volume higher on the controller the buzzing also gets higher and worse. What could be the problem, and what should I do?
It seems most of us have that Controller 2 problem. It's likely just 'cause the controller is old. The only solution would probably be disabling the mic function or getting a brand new controller. As for the gray screen...I get that too sometimes. Treat it like a toaster and clean the pins or press reset a lot. :P
Quote from: JC on May 21, 2007, 10:34:05 am
It seems most of us have that Controller 2 problem. It's likely just 'cause the controller is old. The only solution would probably be disabling the mic function or getting a brand new controller. As for the gray screen...I get that too sometimes. Treat it like a toaster and clean the pins or press reset a lot. :P
Yeah I tried that and nothing appears. Just gray...
I had that controller problem and then I just bought a new pair of controllers from kris and it was fixed.
Could it be possible that the controller is the source of the problem of the gray screen?
no.
I don't think so....
I'm having a problem with my famicom. It was playing the disk system and it was working fine, but when I switched to a cartridge game, I lost the sound, and when I put the disk system adapter back in to see if it was just a problem with the cartridge based games, I still got no sound. I'm running the system using AV cables and I messed around with them a bit but nothing was happening. What do you think this problem could be. The picture is fine, but the sound disappeared
Sounds to me like a weak connection on one of the ends of the cable. Maybe you accidently hit the mute button. ;)
Quote from: JC on June 09, 2007, 10:37:19 pm
Sounds to me like a weak connection on one of the ends of the cable. Maybe you accidently hit the mute button. ;)
nope, didnt hit the mute button because when I switch it back over to the regular TV setting, I can hear the audio. The Famicom came with the AV cables, which I bought from an ebay seller from Thailand. I've had it for a few days now and it was working fine up until now.
A modded RF Famicom? If so, there may be something wrong with the mod itself.
Quote from: JC on June 09, 2007, 11:25:43 pm
A modded RF Famicom? If so, there may be something wrong with the mod itself.
Sorry if I sound like a retard but what exactly does that mean?
Having the original RF Famicom made AV through modifications, instead of having the second Famicom release, which had AV (like the NES top-loader).
So you're saying its the machine itself rather than the cords? I wasn't aware that the original famicom wasn't made with AV modifications
Under further investigation, you are right, I found a picture of a new famicom and it doesn't have the 3 cord slots, just the one for the RF switch. Is there anything I can do to fix the audio with the modded famicom?
EDIT: After messing around with the cables some, I have found out that if I bend them and prop them up using an inanimate object to hold them into position, I can hear the sound. My guess is that the AV cables the seller gave me were crap and that I should probably buy some new ones
that could be it. if its not, then your av mod on the famicom is not working properly. it might be fixable but its probably best to buy a new one instead of desoldering stuff
I have a disk system, the belt is supossed to be ok, but when I try to use it power never goes on
I don't have any batteries to test it, but I plugged it with a generic adapter at 7.5, 9, 12... tried the two ways of polarity but it seems to be dead
I opened it and visually everything seems to be ok
what more can I check and how?
thank you
sorry for my english, I'm a famicom lover from Spain ^^
Hi there i finally got my Famicom Disk System and build it in my Sharp Twin Famicom;
It works perfekt and all my disks are working too !
Thank you for all you answers in the technical Thread
Now i am a owner of a 100% working Sharp Twin Famicom
:)
Congrats man, and enjoy! :)
Quote from: Diego on June 15, 2007, 12:05:43 am
what more can I check and how?
Wish I knew. :-\ Be absolutely sure you're using the right power adaptor.
I opened up my famicom and saw that two of the wires in the AV mod were touching each other. I separated the wires and now the sound seems to be working fine now. I hope that was all it was. Has anyone ever encountered this when messing around with AV mods?
I opened my Famicom again, trying to find the solution to my gray screen problem, and I noticed that the two big chips in the front of the Famicom board get BOILING hot. I don't actually have a Famicom adapter, so I made one by myself using a SNES adapter and a NES ac plug. Is it normal that the two chips get boiling hot? And could that be the problem to my gray screen? Please help me out guys! I really want to play with my Famicom! :)
wait, you're saying you used the nes power adapter and plugged it into your famicom? yeah uh thats why, now its time to find a new fami on ebay
Quote from: kite200 on June 20, 2007, 03:34:56 pm
wait, you're saying you used the nes power adapter and plugged it into your famicom? yeah uh thats why, now its time to find a new fami on ebay
no! :D that's not what im saying! What I did is I took a SNES adapter, since it outputs DC like the regular famicom adapter. Then I opened up a regular NES adapter, took the cord so that it can fit in the Famicom. I took the cord and cut off the SNES cord on the SNES adapter, and replaced it with the NES plug so I have a SNES adapter with a plug of a NES adapter :) It's rather hard to explain...
um, i dont know if thats good or not, ask madman. you probably shouldnt make a frankenstine creation like that
Did you check the polarity while making the modification? IC regulators usually get very hot when they get reversed polarity. And if you're lucky no damage was done. Happened to me a while ago with some famiclones, the ICs get scorching hot but applying the correct polarity will make it work happily again.
I am still searching informations about the Twin Famicom RGB Mod; any idea about the build in board in my Twin Fami and about the cable i need to have full rgb ?
(http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/8821/pic0042ir6.th.jpg) (http://img511.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pic0042ir6.jpg)(http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/9034/pic0044qs9.th.jpg) (http://img100.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pic0044qs9.jpg)(http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/8615/pic0047fd7.th.jpg) (http://img144.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pic0047fd7.jpg)(http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/6229/pic0048os5.th.jpg) (http://img522.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pic0048os5.jpg)
Is that an IC socket without an IC in the first picture? Maybe that's your problem (it may be missing the NTSC to RGB converter IC or something).
Lol, there is no problem with it, i have just no idea for what it is... a few people including you, mean rgb... but for what the switch ?
There'd be absolutely no sense in doing an RGB mod to an already composite signal. You can't get the quality back. You can't tap RGB off the PPU unless you use the one from the Titler. It was probably an audio mod, those were pretty popular back in the day.
But whyshould someone add this new port for an audio mod ?
Stereo ports are added and this strange port with the switch...
I buyed a fitting RGB cable today.
Eventually i can test it tomorrow.
2 people say it's an RGB Mod 2 People say impossible
I have no idea
Me NOOB :D
Either way, that mod isn't going to do anything without an IC. A bunch of resistors and caps won't change anything. It'd also be helpful to see where the signal is being tapped off the Famicom's PCB as well.
I just bought and received a Famicom Disk system from JC and replaced the drive belt in it. It powers up, but, when I put a disk card in the system, a message pops up saying'' Now Loading...'' and it just stays there. The system doesn't make sounds at all...infact it does nothing. All I can see work is the loading light on the front. So I opened it up once more and found out the motor doesn't spin and gets hot. Any suggestions? ???
Maybe it's shorted? Try to power it from an external source and see if it spins (assuming it's a DC brushless direct motor). Also remove the load from the motor, maybe the spindle mechanism is stuck and the motor cannot move it, and overheats. If the motor works fine, check the transistors or the IC that drive it, maybe something shorted out. Touch the ICs while the FDS is working (on the Loading screen you say) and see if any of them gets too hot to touch. If it does, replace it.
BTW, I've never seen a FDS in person, but I've repaired Atari and PC disk drives which I think are similar.
I turn the gears for a while while the system is on. I insert a disk, the loading screen appears and the head starts to read down. But for some reason the head stops reading half way and just stays there. I try the same procedure again and again but the head always stops at the same place. I wonder why it does that...I think i'm going to film what happens and put it up on Youtube to show what happens.
wait so the motor is turning the gears by itself or are you forcing them to turn? because if it stops halfway while the motor is doing it your gear alignment is way off.
I think you just found my problem! :D Well, when I insert a disk the motor is unable to turn the the head for some reason, so if I turn the gears for a while and then insert a disk, the head moves down but it stops at halfway. I'll reopen my system once again and check if the gears are properly allignied :)
Oh shit...I noticed that on one of the gears two teeth which are side by side are slightly bit off...think I found my problem to why the head doesn't move to the end... :-[
wait, that's not it I dont think, do the steps on http://jfgoods.net/disksystem.html , the part where he says "Here comes the most important part" until the end of the article
Yeah that's the guide I used to replace the belt...maybe I did something wrong but I'm not shure what :-\
I just discovered that when I turn the drive on its back, the head continues to move, so the problem is not with the teeth. Now it seems to load, but there is always error 21 or 22 that appears after it tries to load. I checked on the site what those errors are, but I don't really understand what they mean...what are they and how do I correct them?
2 things need to be done
Ensure the gears are aligned, here's a more in depth description then what JFGOODS captions say
1. turn the gears until the metal portion in the slot becomes as small as possible. now turn a little bit more and metal will fill the entire viewing portion of the slot. Now, use a wrech to turn the head to face foward like in the picture. Once this is done, the foward facing head should corrospond to the part where the metal suddenly changes from being small to super large.
After that, check if it works, if not try step 2
2. If you look at the motor, theres a plus and minus sign on it. There is also a hole with a screw in it and a rubber cover. You do not remove the rubber, simply insert a screwdriver and grip the screw underneath. (its flathead). Turn it all the way to the plus sign and then test, then turn it very little (like barely anything) towards the minus sign and test again, keep doing this until you find a spot that works
The gear is really scrap...too bad because the system itself seems to work perfectly. If anybody has a broken disk system could you please let me know. I just want the bottom gear next to the circular round metal plate inside. :)
Is it that strange? Maybe you could get it frome some old 5 1/4" drive.
I don't think I could find one in another drive because the disk cards Nintendo made were made smaller than other disk from other drives, so not a single drive out there would have the same gear size.
The only place you might find those gears is in a quickdrive, which will generally run you more than a FDS.
Could you post a picture of the busted gear? With enough eyeballs here maybe somebody could have a solution ;)
Sure :) I'll open up my system once again and take some pictures some time soon.
Well, If anybody knows of which gear I'm talking about, would anybody who has a broken Famicom Disk Drive be willing to open up their system and sell me the gear? Or they could also sell me their drive if they want to for cheap. :)
I am having problems with following the AV modification instructions on the website because the board for my famicom is different then the one that is shown on the page. I would like some feedback on any advice if anyone else has come across this problem. Thanks.
I think we'll need to see the other side there :P
Sorry to hijack, but while I'm here, I would like to know what I can do to clean the 60 pin connector of my AV Famicom. It has dificulty reading a lot of my games I know aren't dirty and work fine on my other Famicom or NES through an adaptor. I can take the system appart if nesseary since I have the nessesary screwbit.
Scrub the hell out of it with an old toothbrush dipped in a little isopropyl alcohol, then let dry and scrub it a little again with the dry toothbrush, so the contacts look shiny again. People have different methods and opinions on it, this keeps my toaster NES in top shape ;D.
Quote from: 133MHz on July 24, 2007, 10:30:49 am
Scrub the hell out of it with an old toothbrush dipped in a little isopropyl alcohol, then let dry and scrub it a little again with the dry toothbrush, so the contacts look shiny again. People have different methods and opinions on it, this keeps my toaster NES in top shape ;D.
how long should I leave it to dry?
Isopropyl alcohol dries pretty quickly :P
Quote from: chiaotzu on July 23, 2007, 09:28:48 pm
I am having problems with following the AV modification instructions on the website because the board for my famicom is different then the one that is shown on the page. I would like some feedback on any advice if anyone else has come across this problem. Thanks.
We've had a similar question before. I don't know how to answer it, and the dude who wrote it has long since gone away. Maybe, just maybe, someone here can help.
Quote from: satoshi_matrix on July 23, 2007, 10:32:24 pm
I think we'll need to see the other side there :P
Here is the other side. If anyone has schematics they can send me then I can work with those but the pictures on the description page give me nothing, I need pins or drawings or even japanese instuctions, I am a graduated electronics technician with a minor in japanese, I can handle a famicom with the right manuals. I just don't want to go around soldering random parts on my famicom.
You got the same board as mine. :)
Did you perform the AV modification to yours? If so you can you take some pictures of where you soldered your components?
Hehe I got the same board, but the problem is I can't seem to make my system work! :D When I turn it on the only thing that appears is a gray screen and that's it! :(
I can get mine to work on channels 96 and 97 I think, but I cannot get proper sound. Sadly this is why I want to mod my system also so I can have a system that isolates the two audio channels, that would be great for sound bytes. Have you tried the higher channels, or are you trying to run a mod?
I'll check my modded Famicom over the weekend and get back to you.
Quote from: chiaotzu on July 26, 2007, 05:07:39 pm
I can get mine to work on channels 96 and 97 I think, but I cannot get proper sound. Sadly this is why I want to mod my system also so I can have a system that isolates the two audio channels, that would be great for sound bytes. Have you tried the higher channels, or are you trying to run a mod?
Yeah I tried every channel, but I can see the image clearly only on channel 96. No it's not a mod, and I can't understand why there is only a gray image appearing. I mean, the board looks intact and all, but when it's powered on the two big chips on the front of the board get BOILING hot. I'm using a sega genesis adaptor to power it up. :-\
If they get too hot maybe you've reversed the polarity.
No I don't seem to have reversd the polarity...but I wonder why it gets boiing hot and only shows a gray screen ???
The CPU/PPU get hot ? :o
Yep...is it really bad? :-\
Quote from: keiffer01 on July 30, 2007, 08:56:34 am
Yep...is it really bad? :-\
If it's too much heat (I'm guessing somewhere above 100 degrees Fahrenheit), then consider your Famicom dead.
Yep I think it's dead :-\ RIP FAMICOM! :'(
how long does it take for a game for the disk system to load
Well, mine takes only about 5 seconds and the game starts up.
i keep getting eroor 22 and i dont know what to do
my belt is fine. it angers me >:(
Maybe try changing the motor speed. Open the system up, insert a small flat screwdriver in the rubber pad thingy on the top part of the motor, and turn the screw a little and try again to see if it works. If still doesn't, keep doing the same procedure until you get the correct speed.
i did that for four hours i dont want to adj head too risky
and another odd thing in the iddle of reading the disk it stops and starts up again. wtffffffff
I'm afraid it has the same problem that mine did. Maybe one of your gears has some teeth bit off, which then makes the gears slow down or get stuck and then spin properly again. Check yours gears to see if any of them have used teeth. If that's the case, your Disk System is scrap, unless you find an exact gear to replace it with. :-\
aleready checked they are fine i got smb to boot up 2wice but if i take it out and put it back in it wont work
It must be the Disk card then, because error 22 means that the Disk card header block #$01 is unrecognized. Maybe the card has a slight scratch or a little dust rendering the game unplayable. The Disk System can be a real pain in the ass sometimes. :-\
thats it then b/c smb2j is the original game on it but on side b is smb 1 and that side works.
oh well looks like my cousin got screwed over.
lol ;D
That's too bad because SMB2jpn is really the game worth playing on that Disk card! ;D
I finally got my new FDS today, and spent about 2-3 hours replacing the belt. I thought it would be a snap (no pun intended), but it was a bitch to clean up the old sticky belt and then stick the new one in. I just hope I don't have to mess with the drive anymore once I get a new game for it.
Congrats on your repair
lol, thought it would be a snap, well at least you realized how much it sucks
Quote from: kite200 on September 10, 2007, 08:42:29 pm
lol, thought it would be a snap, well at least you realized how much it sucks
I really hope I don't have to mess with the drive itself again. I just bought Zelda a while ago and I hope I didn't misadjust the head or something. Hopefully, all I have to deal with will be the speed adjustment.
only way to find out is put the disk in.
if it doesnt work you can ask me for help
Quote from: kite200 on September 10, 2007, 09:58:20 pm
only way to find out is put the disk in.
if it doesnt work you can ask me for help
Hopefully Zelda will come in the mail tomorrow, so if I get an error message, I'll post it here.
I just got Zelda today and tried to load it only to get Error #22. Is the disk bad or is it the drive?
I just adjusted the speed and now I'm getting Error #21. Ugh...
two things:
make sure the spindle is aligned
make sure the speed is correct.
if you play with the speed and that doesn't work, it's the spindle. search ebay for famicom disk belts and you'll find a seller called jfgoods, visit his site to see his pictures on how to do that
I've done everything possible; I've adjusted the speed, adjusted the spindle, aligned the head as outlined at jfgoods, nothing works. I think the disk may be dead in that case. Is there anyone out there who can rewrite it?
doubt the disk is dead.
You are probably ajusting the JFgoods thing ( I call it the spindle, he calls it the head) wrong. Please try it many times until you understand how toget it right. Look at the pictures carefully
Do not touch the actual head which has a screw that is sealed with wax.
Ajust the spindle and then try every speed. Make extremely minute ajustments on speed each time and then try, then make ajustments again, rinse and repeat
If this doesn't work, IT MAY be the disk. MAYBE. Try another disk in this case. But somehow I don't know if you are doing the other parts correctly. If you try all the steps above, then try another disk, and that doesn't work, then send me your drive and pay me to fix it maybe?
Quote from: kite200 on September 13, 2007, 08:22:32 pmIf you try all the steps above, then try another disk, and that doesn't work, then send me your drive and pay me to fix it maybe?
Well, I don't have any more games to test, so I'm afraid I may have to sent it to you for repair. I'll send you a PM.
Interesting...
I decided to experiment with the FDS some more, and it turns out that it still gives an error #22 message even when there's no disk inserted. I also fixed the belt a little more so that the drive speed wasn't jerky and unnecessarily slow.
that means that one of the jumpers is stuck and it's connection is always on, look at the following:
(http://jfgoods.net/images/twin/37.JPG)
make sure they arent always touching, but that they can become touched if something presses on them. these switches tell the drive if there is a disk inside. one is probably jammed if its doing that
Hm, that may actually be a possibility. I'll look at the drive and check the switches.
EDIT: The switches are working just fine. I'm at a loss here...
the switches might work fine but are they in the proper place? also check the UNDERSIDE (under the metal plate, where you replace the belt) and there's one sticking in there you should look at
What exactly do you mean by proper places? All the switches are disengaged (meaning they aren't touching the contact) when the drive isn't active.
then why the hell is it giving error 22 when the disk isn't inserted
it should give error 1
you gotta double check that shit, spin the gear around and make sure that it doesn't jam the contacts when the head comes foward
Quote from: kite200 on September 14, 2007, 09:06:25 pm
then why the hell is it giving error 22 when the disk isn't inserted
it should give error 1
you gotta double check that shit, spin the gear around and make sure that it doesn't jam the contacts when the head comes foward
The head doesn't appear to be jamming anything; the microswitches engage when they're supposed to, so I think now I'm at a crossroads here. Is there a slight possibility that perhaps the controller IC (FD7201) went bad?
that's what im thinking, there's no way you should get that kind of error.
ask around here and see if anyone will sell you a mobo
Check the paths from the microswitches to the controller chip, maybe something shorted along the way. Also touch the controller IC after the unit has been working for a while. If it gets too hot, it's busted.
I think I might as well sell my FDS in addition to my working Famicom, and then buy a Twin Famicom or maybe an AV Famicom and working FDS.
I just sold my Famicom and FDS yesterday...
And bought a Twin Famicom this morning. :)
my cousin (earthquake jake on famicomworld) just got metroid for FDS and it loads up fine, but when i go to load an actual file a japanese word pops up, and after a while it stops reading.
is it loading or is there like a bad sector or somthin?
sum 1 help me out here
I think you need to take a picture of the screen so guys like manuel can help you out ;).
anyone know wats wrong with metroid fds it loads up but when i pick a file it tries to read it but then it just stops and the loading screen is in a bunch of japenese letters and i dont think it says loading does anyone know what might be wrong
obviously, you'll have to take a picture.
I haven't recieved my famicom yet, but was wondering if it would work with my official super Famicom adapter? It is made to to input the correct voltage.
I'm pretty sure the AC adaptor port of the Famicom and Super Famicom are different, so you'd be unable to use the same AC.
They are the same. :)
Even the same plug going into the console?
Yup. I dont know about all famicoms but if the plug says hvc001 or 2 it will.
Alright I just realized that the second Famicom controller's directional pad doesn't respond that well for games like double dragon you know where you scroll up and down so can anyone help me fix it somehow? I'm thinking something must be moved inside but I don't want to open it without knowing if I'm going to break it. Anyways, anyone have an open Famicom controller photo I can look at?
Open it and clean the directional pad with a toothbrush. Then clean the rubber domes and board with a cotton swab dipped lightly in alcohol.
Quote from: 133MHz on November 21, 2007, 06:56:33 pm
Open it and clean the directional pad with a toothbrush. Then clean the rubber domes and board with a cotton swab dipped lightly in alcohol.
Thanks I'll try it out
after 5 hours of adjusting motor speed and screw of the read head, always same error 22, and i don't have other floppy (original nintendo pro wrestling) so i can't try, but i think that is a problem of the game :-X
anyone have build the fds loader cable? i need the pinout of the cable, in particular the parallel side (can't understand form the readme file)
thanks
Check out this post on Tototek. the bottom line is that no one has gotten FDSLoader to write to disk.
Yo will have to try some other technique to write a disk.
http://tototek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=548&start=105&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
you have done it? it work to play roms directly from the pc instead right (i'm intersted on this)?
you have the pinout of the cable?
your's don't work, but you have modified your drive?
FDSLoadr functonality has been documented. It loads *.fds images from your pc to your famicom/famicom disk system.
Here is an old diagram of the FDSLoadr cable. The original site hosting this diagram is gone but I luckily for you, I saved it.
Please read the FDSLoader documentation and make sure you meet the minimal requirements from a hardware/software perspective. Please try and figure this out. You will never learn unless you try.
Also, can one of the admins save this png file and place it in the workshop section?
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c325/chimyfolkbutter/haisen_para.png)
thanks a lot!! ;)
Hi there
I have just joined you guys.... I have a famicom & FDS, most of the games are not loading, just getting disk error 22 & then some disk error 27..
Only around 8 of about 30 disks work first time (if at all)
I am a complete novice when it comes to technical things...could anyone suggest a way to fix this?
Thanks a lot
Hi there,
I was in japan last summer and picked up a working famicon (used it a bunch during the typoons) but I have not been able to get it working here in the us. I took it on the plane as my carry-on to protect it.
Anyway when i plug everything in the best I've gotten is a diffrent colored fuzzy screen with no sound when i hook everything up... Can anyone give me advice? I've tryed using the american and the japanese RF cord but only the japanese power cord and tried it on three diffrent TV's.
I am really going crazy over here. I hope someone can help me.
Ive had the same problem. The famicom is working on a few tvs here in europe.
Itried and tried but it sucks.
You could getting it modified with av. But you must solder and have a couple of technic skills.
Ive purchased a twin famicom. That has got av for standart.
Ive heard that the famicom can work on several japanese tvs. For example sony. Correct me if im wrong. But im not sure.. :)
What channels are you using for the American RF cord? When I use the Famicom, I have to use a channel in the high 90s rather than 3 or 4.
mine is ch13 for rf
Hmmm. I'll have to give it a go in the higher numbers.
I had it set to ch.3 but i didn't look around in the higher numbers.
I'll give that a try.
You should use the color cables it's a lot better than searching for the channel. In my RF Famicom I get channel 65
Thanks guys!
I found mine on ch. 92!
I'm so glad nothing is wrong with my famicom!
Block end mark seen but ends prematurely.
OK i have this problem with my Famicom Disk, i have a regular Famicom and TWIN Famicom, the belt on the TWIN is broken, the Famicom Disk have this error with some of my game (err 27) i change the disk unit from the Famicom to the Twin and is the same thing. Can some one help me with this problem and also where can i find a belt for my Twin Disk. THANKS. :'(
it sounds like the disk might have a problem but i cant say for sure kite can. you can get belts from jfgoods on ebay but i havent seen any lately. they are getting expensive sinsce there are not many left tho.
Try tuning the FDS.
??? OK my friend but how do i do that tuning, i reed something about that but i am new on Famicom Disk, i have my disk for litle over 2 years but never try to use it, now i have a TWIN Famicom (SHARP) and it works super, now i whant my regular Disk to work but i dont whant to FU*&%$#@ it up. ::)
U can see my collection at www.myspace.com/jaybe787 , Sorry that page is in spanish but u SING IN to my space and just click on my picture to see my other pictures. I have some diferent things this week i have to update.
Correct me if I am wrong, but I think he means turning it so that it is facing vertical, like how a Wii stands.
No, he means tuning the speed screw on the motor to alter the speed of it.
My friend how do i adjust the screw for the motor speed, were is that screw.
Hehe I'm not the FDS guy here ;D. But here we have a few members who are experts on Disk Systems that could help you out ;)
Quote from: 133MHz on December 11, 2007, 01:53:48 pm
No, he means tuning the speed screw on the motor to alter the speed of it.
And that is why I don't give advice, haha. :)
I've never done it myself, but I think there's a plastic piece inside the FDS with a screw-like head. You turn that ever so slightly and test a game. If your games are working fine, you're done. If not, turn it slightly again.
Start here first http://www.tototek.com/tomyweb/repair.htm .
You won't be able to utilize the diagnostic software that CopyMaster has to tune the motor. You will have to do it the old fashion way: Trial and error.
Don't adjust the head though.That is last resort tuning.
-CFB
I have a HVC-001 japanese famicom and it doesn't seem to be working. I purchased it from Craigslist and have not yet gotten it to work. ???
I have the correct AC adapter (a Radio Shack universal that outputs DC 10V @ 850mA). The adapter works for my famiclone since it has the same power requirements, but my Famicom doesn't seem to be turning on.
I've read the forums here and tried it on various channels (including 90-99) and nothing. I have the original RF but have tried the NES RF as well. I removed the cover to the Famicom and none of the components appear to be fried. Everything looks to be in great condition on the board, no cracks, burnt marks, or anything. I think I may have been the first to open it up. Anything to check that I'm missing here that may not be obvious via a visual inspection? Ideas? Thanks for your help!
Do you have a PAL TV? Famicoms are made to work on NTSC, but I've heard that modern PAL TV's may have NTSC compatibility. If you do have a PAL TV, try it on every channel.
Also, you should use the NES RF switch, not the original japanese one.
I have all NTSC tvs and do not have any PAL formatted. I live in the US and the famicom should work on tvs here. I've tried all channels 2-99 and nothing. I also tried the NES RF. Thanks for your response
Make sure the game you're testing works.
Check if the switch on the back of the famicom is set to "Game", not "TV".
Also, you could try turning the famicom on and doing an auto scan of all available channels on the TV, in case it's not accepting the signal properly for some reason. And if you're using an HDTV, you could run into major problems.
And if all else fails, you could try the AV mod...
Also if you (or a friend) have a TV tuner card you could try connecting the Famicom to it and setting the card to NTSC-J or Japanese tuning, then you tune channel 1 or 2 and your Famicom should display normally there. Or try an auto-scan like Syzygy01said.
it also may be the tv your using. b/c it might be too old or not support it. you should test it on different tvs in your house until you find one it works on.
i just received a broken FDS and thought i might just have to replace the belt inside. Well, I've never had an FDS before, tested it prior to opening it up, and the system does nothing when a disk is put in. I used batteries and/or an appropriate AC/DC adapter. I expected the light on the front to light up or to hear some mechanical noises inside even without a working belt.
Is this still only a belt problem, or something bigger with the power boards?
I did open it up and the belt is definitely messed up on this one. But I don't want to order another belt for it if it is fried.
Thanks for any info!
Ok well i've had alot of problems with my famicom, HVC-001.
So heres the scoop.
I purchased one and when i received it, it had been modded, with the AV output. ok cool
but when i tried it nothing worked. So i e-mail the guy, he sent be an other one, same problem.
Now im stuck with 2 famicoms and dont know how to make them work, lol.
They have the same (HVC-001) on the bottom, but one model has asian symbols over the top right "nintendo' logo on the front sticker.
Also the one with no asian symbols has 4 stickers in the back saying from left to right (AC adapter, TV-Game, CH1-CH2, RF switch) while the other one only has RF switch and ac adapter.
Are these different models?
any ways, I was thinking it might be the ac adapter.
I thought at first it was the original but realised its not, its appart of the family accessories line and as no serial number.
Now it reads:
INPUT: AC 220V 50Hz
OUTPUT: DC 9V 400mA
correct me if i'm wrong but that looks like an ac adapter for a disk system... and i'm in canada so the input is 120V not 220V? right?
so basically i'm lost in numbers and what to do.... any ideas...i miss my famicom games!
thanks,
p.
there is no official famicom product aside from the hong kong version famicom (which is PAL) that has a 220v AC adaptor. the items you received may be clones but i'd have to have a pic for that
nah i'm almost positive there not clones... notice the dirty av conversion job:
(http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/9892/img0852ir9.jpg)
(http://img262.imageshack.us/img262/3396/img0853en1.jpg)
(http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/8623/img0854hz3.jpg)
(http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/8020/img0855qt3.jpg)
(http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/3504/img0856sm6.jpg)
(http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/9821/img0857rm5.jpg)
thanks!
Yeah your problem is the adapter, if it's for 220V and you plug it into 110V it will output 4.5V instead of 9V and that's not enough for the Famicom (the logic needs 5V and the 7805 voltage regulator needs at least 7V to work properly). Get an appropriate one (9V DC negative tip)
EDIT: Hey also I noticed on the pics you posted that the first Famicom has a rusted power connector, actually very, very rusted. It may be no surprise that it didn't work at all with such a connector. You'll have to replace it.
hmm yea good point.
I will probably end up selling them, anyways, even though i never got them to work...
The guy i purchased from assures me they work though.
ah well.
hi, i'm new here, i'm from the amsterdam, netherlands based retro gameshop game over? (www.gameover.nl), and i have a question about the fds.
i have a few systems here, which all don't work.
i managed to purchase a few new belts($15!), and stil they don't work.
errors are number 21 and 27.
i read something about ''doing the timing'', can anyone please tell me what that is?
email: joystick@xs4all.nl
kind regards,
dave.
Welcome aboard! ;D I see you carry Texas Instruments hardware. Do you have cartridges for a Super Speak and Spell? The new model with QWERTY keyboard and LCD screen.
About your inquiry, there's plenty of FDS nuts here who will be glad to help you out ;). I'm not one of them, but I know that the procedures include adjusting motor speed through a screw marked +/- in the motor body, and adjusting the R/W head spindle thingy.
BTW there's an introduce yourself thread on the off-topic chat forum ;).
NEVER TOUCH THE HEAD ADJUSTMENT.
ONLY ADJUST THE SPEED AND SPINDLE
To adjust speed do what 333mhz said
typo, but funny joke
Alright, I finally got a replacement belt for my Famicom Disk System, and upon opening up the unit, I have found that the original belt seems to have become sticky goo. Scraping it off doesn't seem to be working very well, and while one site said Zippo lighter fluid can get this off, I can't find anyone here that stocks it. What else would work? Rubbing Alcohol?
go to walgreens and get 90% or better isopropyl
Alright, I replaced the belt, and all I'm getting are errors 21 and 22 (and once 27). The guide said to adjust the Potentiometer screw and keep trying, but which screw is that?
edit: Alright, I checked earlier in the thread and found it. Now I have to get myself a very small screwdriver. This will be the third one I've bought to fix this thing.
Alright, I got a screwdriver to adjust it, and so far I've got nothing but errors, and now the thing is giving me a battery error despite the fact that I got the batteries less than a month ago. Would they get drained just by sitting in the system? If not, what does this mean? Is there any common AC adapter that's compatible with this thing (i.e. some sort of Sega Genesis adapter or something)?
battery error is sometimes a glitch, try restarting the system. if not get a AC, i just use the official one but there may be a standard, ask around here.
well it's doing this continuously now, so I doubt it's just a glitch. I guess I'll check around to see what other AC adapters would work, if any, and perhaps just get new batteries if I can't find any.
Not quite Famicom related, but I hope I can get some help nevertheless. I'm having a problem with my SNES AC Adaptor. One of the progs is loose and probably needs to be resoldered. However, I can't seem to figure out how to get the AC Adaptor open. There are like speical security plugs that keep the thing together. Any suggestions on how I should go about opening them?
If I can't repair the AC Adaptor, I'll need to replace it. Is there anything specific I should look for (becides the obvious voltage/ampridge/polarity info displayed) such as a particular name brand or type?
i'd recommend not opening the AC adaptor. there is a reason all electronics have the AC sealed with special screws.
http://cgi.ebay.com/AC-A-C-POWER-SUPPLY-OFFICIAL-ORIGNL-SUPER-NINTENDO-SNES_W0QQitemZ330205373444QQihZ014QQcategoryZ3592QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
sounds good, except for the $14 shipping :D
Alright, the battery thing seems to have gone away, but I still can't seem to get the thing to work. Is there any trick to finding how to set the potentiometer, or is it entirely trial an error. I already slowly went from one extreme to the other without any luck at all, and it's getting pretty frustrating.
Hi, I hope I'm posting this in the right area (forgive me, I'm a noob)
Anyway, after over a decade of collecting NES games and various other systems I decided to get a Famicom to complete the collection (as complete as a console collection can be I suppose) I got a unit on eBay which was sold with no power supply but that's not a big deal since I happened to have one with the correct voltage, polarity and what have you. Plus the whole unit was only $20 and it had the original box. Now I was not able to get any picture on the TV on channel 95 or any of the 90s for that matter.
I know the games work as they work just fine in my clone system (NEX) I know the PSU is fine as a multimeter shows it outputting 10VDC. It's rated to 1A which is a smidge higher than the .85 but it should be okay.
Question is, where to go from here? Any common points or places to check voltage in the unit? I'd like to repair it even though I do plan on getting a second and working one. I'm semi-good at electronics as I studied it for 4 years but have only used it sporadically the last 7. I only paid $20 for it so maybe it might be a good parts unit (It's in good cosmetic shape and the controllers seem good)
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Open it up and check the output of the 7805 voltage regulator. It should be a stable 5V on the rightmost pin, middle one is ground and leftmost is the unregulated input from the AC adapter. Tell us how that goes :).
Oh and BTW, welcome! ;D There's an Introduce Yourself thread on the off-topic chat board, check it out ;).
EDIT: Also, check ALL the channels, some people got it working on the lower ones, like channel 7 or 12. And if your TV has a switch for antenna/cable, try flipping it and see if it helps.
After putting in a new belt, make sure you do the alignment pictured here: http://www.jfgoods.net/images/twin/44.JPG (http://www.jfgoods.net/images/twin/44.JPG)
This will solve 99% of disk reading problems. Anything after that will be adjusting the disk speed, if you do this, do it by using very minimal turns of the screw. The slightest turn has a large effect on the drive's ability to properly read disks.
madman!! :o :o :o
Quote from: 133MHz on January 22, 2008, 10:06:37 am
Open it up and check the output of the 7805 voltage regulator. It should be a stable 5V on the rightmost pin, middle one is ground and leftmost is the unregulated input from the AC adapter. Tell us how that goes :).
Well no voltage from pin 1 -2 or pin 2 - 3 for that matter. I'm actually getting around 11.4V on the adapter (despite its claim of 9V) and I can trace it actually getting voltage on the board so it's not a blown solder connection that I can tell.
Quote
Oh and BTW, welcome! ;D There's an Introduce Yourself thread on the off-topic chat board, check it out ;).
Thanks
One last thing, in doing a logic test on the 7805 Pins 1, 3 and 5 all appear to be shorts? Think I should just go ahead and replace it?
AC adapters will vary greatly in their DC output, which isn't a problem. That's why devices have voltage regulators on them. The output on a 7805 should be pin 3 with about +5v. Sounds like yours is shot, pretty common problem.
Quote from: madman on January 22, 2008, 05:20:30 pm
AC adapters will vary greatly in their DC output, which isn't a problem. That's why devices have voltage regulators on them. The output on a 7805 should be pin 3 with about +5v. Sounds like yours is shot, pretty common problem.
Thanks. I'll pick one up at Ripoff Shack tomorrow and see where things go from there.
Quote from: battra92 on January 22, 2008, 05:30:30 pm
Quote from: madman on January 22, 2008, 05:20:30 pm
AC adapters will vary greatly in their DC output, which isn't a problem. That's why devices have voltage regulators on them. The output on a 7805 should be pin 3 with about +5v. Sounds like yours is shot, pretty common problem.
Thanks. I'll pick one up at Ripoff Shack tomorrow and see where things go from there.
OKay, so I took the old one out and resoldered the new one and now I get .5V on the source and 0 on the output pin
Sounds like no power is reaching the regulator or the line is shorted along the way. Check the adapter plug in the console, power switch, things like that. Also test continuity between positive and negative.
Quote from: 133MHz on January 23, 2008, 03:27:02 pm
Sounds like no power is reaching the regulator or the line is shorted along the way. Check the adapter plug in the console, power switch, things like that. Also test continuity between positive and negative.
Adapter plug is fine on the solder points directly underneath it. Switch appears to be fine as well. The old Regulator was a total short so it shouldn't have gone further than that. but with that darn shielding in place it's hard to see much. Test which continuity did you mean?
Apparently you still have a short or the regulator is not getting power.
Quote from: 133MHz on January 23, 2008, 09:21:54 pm
Apparently you still have a short or the regulator is not getting power.
It looks like it. I ended up packing it up after looking at it for an hour last night. Some component appears to be shorted but darned if I can find it. Oh well, for parts, a box and manual I guess $20 isn't too bad. :(
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1bsjXv0xXQ
I don't know what is bootleg. The game or the system? Are those modded A/V original Famicoms like the one I have usually bootlegs something? This is annoying to hell out of me. Angry
If the Fami still has an RF modulator, try using it instead of the A/V mod.
I have that same TV in my room. Just kidding. :P
please show a clear pic of the front of the console because the cart is legit
hmm I kinda like that odd music.... ;D
Like 133MHz said, if the A/V modification was done such that it taps the audio before the game cart's music is mixed in, the enhanced sound won't play.
I have this problem on my fami and am forced to use the lower-quality RF output for this game and disk games.
edit:
No, nothing would be bootleg... you probably have a genuine famicom that has been specially modified.
Quote from: 133MHz on January 23, 2008, 09:21:54 pm
Apparently you still have a short or the regulator is not getting power.
I took another look at it last night and I'm still not sure but I may ask a friend of mine. Are there any schematics available for the power circuits in the Famicom?
Guys, I still can't get my FDS to work. I tried adjusting the speed to get Metroid to work, but in doing so I seem to have make it so that done of my disks will work. I've tried to adjust it constantly, but it seems that I shot myself in the foot trying to repair it. my first question is where is the ideal spot to have the screw turned in order for the disks to work? does it differ per system? Is there something else I can do becides adjust the motor? I've fully taken the drive apart to examine the belt, but its 100% fine. not melted, nothing wrong. It's very frustrating.
Is this a belt issue or a motor speed readjustment issue?
Any info is helpful, thank you!
Check the drive and see if it requires a new belt first.
So I got in my Famicom Disk System today and while the auction said it was working, it crashes and freezes up on the sign as it comes down. It did make it once but then gave me a battery error (I had knocked out the power adapter by mistake.) Can't even get it to do that. I've cleaned the contacts thoroughly and still nothing.
I'm trying to use a Generation NEX which I feel is most likely my problem.
I'd bet it is because you're not using original hardware.
Well the RAM adaptor seems to wobble around. I see vids up on YouTube so I know it can be done.
I bought a Famicom, and Famicom Disk System on eBay. The Famicom Disk System, connected to my Famicom, powered on for about 5 seconds, but then it shut off. I thought my Famicom Disk System was broken, so I got the seller, from eBay, to ship me a new one. The new one didn't work either. Later on, I found out that both Famicom Disk Systems work perfectly, and that it was actually the Famicom, itself, that is broken. I will sell the extra Famicom Disk System, and buy a working Famicom. Now, my Famicom is in mint condition, and I want it to stay that way. Is it possible to take the guts of a working Famicom, and put it inside the shell of another? Is it hard? The shell of my broken Famicom is in pristine shape. Would I damage the working one, by switching its guts to the mint shell? I don't think I will find another Famicom, in as good shape, as the one I have. If I do, then I wont switch the guts. If I don't, then maybe I will, but I want to know if this is easy, or not. Please let me know. Thanks.
Switching the guts is easy. All you need is a screwdriver.
The only caveat would be if either Famicom has an AV mod. These usually include creating extra holes in the back/side of the Famicom, so the swap wouldn't work if one has extra holes drilled in the case and the other doesn't.
My Famicom has never been modified, and I don't plan on buying a working, modified one either. I don't like to modify my consoles, because it ruins their factory status. Does that make sense? I am an extreme perfectionist. I have all the consoles that exist, and all are mint. I don't even like to open my consoles, because the screw driver might scratch the screws, and dust, dirt, hair, and finger prints, may get inside. Even crooked labels bother me. It's almost impossible to find a TurboGrafx-16, without a crooked serial number. I like things to be perfect, but perfection is never possible. Anyways, I will open my Famicom, seeing I have no choice, and I don't think I will ever come across another one, that looks as nice. I have another, small question: Were the Famicom systems assembled by hand, in the factory, or by machine?
I did the AV mod to my famicom, but there is something wrong with the picture. It's all grainy and noisy. The sound works just fine. What could be wrong? Please help!
Hi knekten, welcome to the forums! ;D There's an intro thread on the Off-Topic Chat board so you can tell us more about yourself ;).
As for your problem, more details (i.e. pictures) are needed on how you did your mod. Did you use any equivalent replacements? etc.
Hi and thanks for the welcome :D
I didn't use any replacements:
For the video circuit I used:
1 47µf electrolytic capacitor
2 22kΩ Resistors
1 2N3704 Transistor NPN TO92
I was thinking that it was a faulty transistor, but i changed it today, and it didn't help. And I get some picture, so I should have built the circuit right? This is confusing.
If this doesn't help I'll take some pictures tomorrow :)
Quote from: b3b0palula on September 10, 2006, 01:08:43 am
Hi peeps, I recently aquired an old 1st version Famicom and im having lots of fun with it.
The only problem:
Some idiot had removed the SELECT button on the 1P controller. That means i cant select 2P options on many of the games.
Apparently it seems like no matter how much jabbing underneath with pointed objects wouldnt get the select function to work.
We all know that the controllers are handwired, so does anyone knows if the 1P controller can be replaced easily? Anywhere that sells replacement famicom controllers?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
I use parts from the inside of NES controllers for spare parts for my famicom controllers as all the inner components are exactly the same.
Hey I just got my AV famicom in the mail and it works great. Only one thing that's strange about it. It doesn't let me play my NES games on it using my NES to famicom adapter. How come? Is there a lockout chip inside it or something? I know the adapter works because I use it fine on my famicom clone. It's not a huge deal because I bought all the japanese carts of my favourite NES games. I'm just curious why it won't like my adapter with NES games.
Try turning the NES cart around.
I dunno.
Famicoms have no lockout chip of any kind. And what do you mean it doesn't work? Grey screen?
Quote from: nurd on March 19, 2008, 06:05:12 pm
Try turning the NES cart around.
I dunno.
Turning around the cart so the label is away from the on switch is how I got mine to work for my AV. Lock out technology wasn't invented at that time, infact all game systems till about the playstation used some sort of hardwiring or game cart shape to try and prevent games from moving across boarders. Me and some friends ran into this same problem when trying to play famicom games on an NES, apparently they are reversed from one another. So as I said and nurd said try turning it around, it should work, if not keep trying after cleaning contacts (rinse repeat)
Quote from: chiaotzu on March 20, 2008, 07:38:18 pm
Quote from: nurd on March 19, 2008, 06:05:12 pm
Try turning the NES cart around.
I dunno.
Turning around the cart so the label is away from the on switch is how I got mine to work for my AV. Lock out technology wasn't invented at that time, infact all game systems till about the playstation used some sort of hardwiring or game cart shape to try and prevent games from moving across boarders. Me and some friends ran into this same problem when trying to play famicom games on an NES, apparently they are reversed from one another. So as I said and nurd said try turning it around, it should work, if not keep trying after cleaning contacts (rinse repeat)
......Did nobody read my post? I said it works on my clone. I have to make it face backwards on my clone to get it to work, so of course I make it face that way on my AV famicom. And lockout technology wasn't invented in 1993? Then how about this:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/10NES
I wasn't sure if they had a lockout system in the AV famicom of not. My only guess is that my adapter is designed only to work on clones.
*edit* I got it to work. I had to insert it into the slot and then pull it back out a little. Either dirty connector pins or just a poorly designed adapter.
Hello, everybody. I am new to this forum. A friend of mine on another forum told me that a Famicom is safe to use with an NES adapter, and he is pretty knowledgeable about technical matters. Well, I followed his advice, and I smelled some burning smell coming out of my Famicom. I am sure something is damaged in it.
My question is what is likely damaged and can it be repaired?
Any assistance on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Sounds like a burst capacitor. Look inside the system and see if you notice any fluid that's leaked out of the capacitor.
Also, never use an NES PSU on a Famicom. AC power+DC device=Bad things.
Also check the 7805. It may be shorted.
So it sounds like it is repairable. Right? Might just need to replace a capacitor or a diode or other component, but there is hope. Right?
Quote from: Bibliophile on April 01, 2008, 05:02:46 pm
So it sounds like it is repairable. Right? Might just need to replace a capacitor or a diode or other component, but there is hope. Right?
Yeah, once I accidentally inserted a power supply of the wrong polarity in my old Twin Famicom. One of the capacitors burst but once I replaced it, it was working again.
I got a Step Up & Down Japan Transformer it shows:
(http://www.famicomworld.com/Workshop/Disk_System_AC_Adaptor2.jpg)
Where Do I put the AC Adaptor into so then I don't overheat and fry my famicom.
100V
Thanks :)
Quote from: JunjiHiroma on April 07, 2008, 11:47:28 am
I got a Step Up & Down Japan Transformer it shows:
(http://www.famicomworld.com/Workshop/Disk_System_AC_Adaptor2.jpg)
Where Do I put the AC Adaptor into so then I don't overheat and fry my famicom.
Plug into 100v, and set the red dial on the back to 120v.
Hello All,
Recently I bought a black Sharp Twin Famicom System off of Ebay. It came with 4 games including All Night Super Mario Bros with original casing for just over $150.00. The system works great. I just got into collecting for this system and I was able to pick up a lot of 61 disk games with casings. More problem with the system is I get the "Set Disk B" screen for any game that is dual sided and when I flip the disk nothing happens. I figure if I wait a little maybe it will load in but still nothing happens. Can anyone help on this? Am I supposed to press some buttons or what. Could it be a problem with the belt? Also not all the games in the lot worked I kept getting Error 22 for most of them. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Quote from: fflegend05 on April 11, 2008, 08:05:16 pm
Hello All,
Recently I bought a black Sharp Twin Famicom System off of Ebay. It came with 4 games including All Night Super Mario Bros with original casing for just over $150.00. The system works great. I just got into collecting for this system and I was able to pick up a lot of 61 disk games with casings. More problem with the system is I get the "Set Disk B" screen for any game that is dual sided and when I flip the disk nothing happens. I figure if I wait a little maybe it will load in but still nothing happens. Can anyone help on this? Am I supposed to press some buttons or what. Could it be a problem with the belt? Also not all the games in the lot worked I kept getting Error 22 for most of them. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Hi, I recently bought a rwin famicom myself drom ebay..... It took a few days to figure out how to tune it in properly.... and then I got a few disks aswell... and only 4 of 7 worked.... (I sent the rest to a friend and he tested them aswell)... You better realize that many of those 20 year old disks are corrupt due to demagnetising (is that the correct word in English??).... as soon as you get a good few of your games working..... then It should read all that are working....
And it´s possible for only the B-side to be corrupt....
But I have to say its a wonderful system...... I love it... good luck
Quote from: fflegend05 on April 11, 2008, 08:05:16 pm
Hello All,
Recently I bought a black Sharp Twin Famicom System off of Ebay. It came with 4 games including All Night Super Mario Bros with original casing for just over $150.00. The system works great. I just got into collecting for this system and I was able to pick up a lot of 61 disk games with casings. More problem with the system is I get the "Set Disk B" screen for any game that is dual sided and when I flip the disk nothing happens. I figure if I wait a little maybe it will load in but still nothing happens. Can anyone help on this? Am I supposed to press some buttons or what. Could it be a problem with the belt? Also not all the games in the lot worked I kept getting Error 22 for most of them. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Your problem is not uncommon. The magnetic information on the disks degrade over time. If you can read the A side then that tells me that your disk system is working fine. You mentioned that you received 61 disks. You may have bought Game Doctor disks which are pirate disks. These disks require a Game Doctor and are worthless if you don't have one. ABout the only way to determine if that is the case is when you boot up the A side of the disk, you should get the Official Nintendo verbage in the beginning. If it doesn't read then you proabably have a pirate disk or a bad disk.
Further to my other post on the Famicom I just bought: I understand the Famicom doesn't have the region lock-out like the NES did, and that you can play US games. What about PAL games? I have quite a few of those, some of which would be comparatively expensive to replace with Japanese versions (River City Ransom for example). If I understand what I've read correctly then I'll be able to play them through a 72 pin adaptor, and they'll output in NTSC at 60hz - could someone please confirm one way or the other?
Quote from: MattyD on April 14, 2008, 08:21:11 am
Further to my other post on the Famicom I just bought: I understand the Famicom doesn't have the region lock-out like the NES did, and that you can play US games. What about PAL games? I have quite a few of those, some of which would be comparatively expensive to replace with Japanese versions (River City Ransom for example). If I understand what I've read correctly then I'll be able to play them through a 72 pin adaptor, and they'll output in NTSC at 60hz - could someone please confirm one way or the other?
Correct, it would work; I know because I have tried.
Quote from: MattyD on April 14, 2008, 08:21:11 am
Further to my other post on the Famicom I just bought: I understand the Famicom doesn't have the region lock-out like the NES did, and that you can play US games. What about PAL games? I have quite a few of those, some of which would be comparatively expensive to replace with Japanese versions (River City Ransom for example). If I understand what I've read correctly then I'll be able to play them through a 72 pin adaptor, and they'll output in NTSC at 60hz - could someone please confirm one way or the other?
I figured it wouldn't work, but if others say otherwise, who knows. If it does work, the PAL games will run faster than normal since you're running at a faster rate than intended.
Thanks for the help with the posts I made earlier. After running through the disks I received with my Twin Famicom Unit I noticed that there were some unofficial disks. Also I read that when you turn on the disk unit without a disk in it you are supposed to get a screen with Mario and Luigi on it letting you know to put in a disk. Mine unit doesn't do this I get a disk error automatically. Could there be something wrong with the drive? Also I tried an official disk and I had the same problem the system won't load side B. Any ideas?
Maybe one of the disk sensors is stuck on, so it detects a disk when it's not there, also preventing it from detecting the side change.
Thanks for that. Any idea how I might be able to fix that. I just booted up my system up and I get Error 22 everytime I do this with no disk in there. Any idea how I might be able to fix that?
Quote from: UglyJoe on April 14, 2008, 08:55:41 amI figured it wouldn't work, but if others say otherwise, who knows. If it does work, the PAL games will run faster than normal since you're running at a faster rate than intended.
Actually they'll run at the
intended speed, since games developers / publishers didn't care enough about the PAL gamers to optimise their games for 50hz in those days. They'd just let the machines run them in 50hz instead, meaning PAL games ran nearly 20% slower than they were suppposed to :( The only NES games I can think of that was speed corrected was Super Mario Bros and even that was a hack job.
Me again... My Famicom arrived today and although it seems in good condition I'm not sure it works since it turns out my TV won't be able to accept the signal (only goes up to 80 channels). Does anyone have any ideas of how to test the machine actually works *without* a TV before I begin possibly wasting my time and money on performing the AV mod? I thought about trying a multimeter on the RF output socket to test for output current but I'm not even sure what I should set the meter to look for or what I should expect from a working system.
Just tap temporarily on the point used on the AV mod for video output with no circuit at all, you should get a dark picture. That should be enough to prove the system is working.
hey i was playing my av mod famicom and i noticed some colors where missing
heres some pics
Av Mod Famicom
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh174/popibros1/100_1411.jpg)
NES
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh174/popibros1/100_1413.jpg)
WTF can any one tell me how to fix this?
MARIO 8 YEAHHHH!!! Anyways, wait for 133mhz to see this thread maybe he has an idea about how to fix it.
Quote from: popibros1 on April 23, 2008, 09:01:37 am
hey i was playing my av mod famicom and i noticed some colors where missing
heres some pics
Av Mod Famicom
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh174/popibros1/100_1411.jpg)
NES
(http://i256.photobucket.com/albums/hh174/popibros1/100_1413.jpg)
WTF can any one tell me how to fix this?
Whoa, thats awful; it appears that the conversion was done wrong. It could be simply bad soldering, or even worse a bad famicom.
Whoa that's strange. Seems like the PPU isn't rendering some of the colors. Try giving the cart connector a good cleaning even if it seems unrelated. Otherwise I'd bet that the PPU is shot.
Quote from: 133MHz on April 23, 2008, 11:05:17 am
Try giving the cart connector a good cleaning even if it seems unrelated.
ok i will try ;)
Thanks 133MHz It Works! ;D ;D ;D
told ya 133mhz is the master!
I see there are a few colors missing, but isn't it a common thing that AV modded systems appear darker during gameplay? Mine does that, and from the looks of it, so does popi's.
On HDTV's (Mine's a Samsung) ,It does some ghost stripes when in component. I tried using the (s)nes control deck RF Cable and it doesn't work,the damaged pin one that has the Nes Control Deck on it works perfectly so I don't know why the NES control deck can work on channel 95 and the other new one won't work.
133mhz is the master?
Can he tell me how to get my gameboy color to play on my TV? I'm trying to make it unPortable. or something.
Now that you mention it, the Game Boy is a pretty weird beast. It's an LCD based system, but it uses CRT-based timings and sutff, like HBlank & VBlank periods, it even provides sync pulses! Maybe Nintendo did this because developers were accustomed to programming CRT-using systems and expect those kinds of things, even if they are completely irrelevant on an LCD.
So the LCD really works as a CRT, the only different thing is that the video is carried by two separate signals, each one containing two of the four possible shades of grey. The combination of those gives you the full spectrum, like three separate video signals give you every possible color on a VGA monitor.
Display Resolution: 160x144 pixels
Horizontal Scan Rate: 9.615 kHz
Vertical Scan Rate: 58 Hz
The H-scan rate is really weird and the lowest TV sets ever made that can support such a thing are old British 405 line sets (which work at 10.something kHz horizontal). Normal TVs around the world run at 15.7 kHz and PC monitors start at 31.5 kHz for 640x480. So, if you're planning to connect the thing directly to a TV or monitor, you're SOL.
The only possible way would be building a full digital frame store which reads a frame of this weird-ass video, and then fitting a D/A converter which reads said frame and converts it into a standard NTSC/VGA frame, rinse, repeat 60 times a second and you get a normal video stream. TV-out circuits in modern PC video cards do this sort of thing.
If you're the Omnipotent God of Digital Electronics™ and possess shitloads of cash for FPGAs and stuff, then this should be a piece of cake :P
What?
I guess i bought another gameboy for *almost* nothing. my other one needs a speaker.
I guess that if I put a yobo inside of an n64, I could turn the gameboy into a controller.
8-BIT MULTYGAEM, I will call it.
You asked for it XD.
I found this thing on ebay : http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nintendo-NES-RF-TV-Direct-Adapter-6-foot-RCA-cable_W0QQitemZ270231808171QQihZ017QQcategoryZ41045QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting would this thing work on a famicom on channel 95?
Yes, but it will be a PITA to connect and disconnect every time you want to play your FC. OTOH it will give the best quality you can get out of RF.
Quote from: nurd on April 25, 2008, 01:08:10 pm
133mhz is the master?
Can he tell me how to get my gameboy color to play on my TV? I'm trying to make it unPortable. or something.
Yes, get a gameboy snes cartridge (forget what they call it...)... :)
or pony up the cash for a wideboy:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Nintendo-WideBoy-Game-Boy-Player-for-N64-GBA-Wide-Dev_W0QQitemZ280219946860QQihZ018QQcategoryZ62054QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
or get yourself an oldschool gba at a yardsale and get a gba 2 tv adapter:
http://www.gameboy-advance.net/accessories/gba_to_tv_adapter.htm
http://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Game-Advance-Converter-Gameboy/dp/B0007NXWSM
If you really want the gb controls, turn your extra gb into a snes controller...
You're giving the practical answer. I'm giving the excessively technical and complicated answer :P.
Doesn't the Game Boy Player for GameCube take old carts as well? You can get a Japanese boxed set of a Spice Orange console with the matching coloured GBA player and it looks well nice ;)
I wanted to make something like: http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/6285/ohhellsyeahto9.png (http://img383.imageshack.us/img383/6285/ohhellsyeahto9.png)
That.
Quote from: 133MHz on April 27, 2008, 12:17:32 am
You're giving the practical answer. I'm giving the excessively technical and complicated answer :P.
Yes, but your technical answer is boring. The correct technical answer is: Yes.
What you need to do is to buy a gameboy, a super gameboy, and an fc twin. Take apart the fc twin and discard the nes part. Unsolder the cartridge connector and shrink it down as much as possible. Mix and match the gameboy and super gameboy as needed (I'm not sure which circuit board will be smaller but I assume the super gameboy one is--I don't know how hard it will be to run the lcd off the super gameboy but the supergameboy is--in it's most basic sense--is a gameboy without a screen). Then stuff it all back in the gameboy and play your games on the gameboy and a tv too!!! .... Ok, so all that would probably be pretty hard to shrink into the case.
Quote from: michaelthegreat on April 29, 2008, 10:56:01 pm
Mix and match the gameboy and super gameboy as needed (I'm not sure which circuit board will be smaller but I assume the super gameboy one is--I don't know how hard it will be to run the lcd off the super gameboy but the supergameboy is--in it's most basic sense--is a gameboy without a screen).
How'd you do that? The SGB is pretty different to a normal Gameboy, it contains power, display, sound and control interfacing hardware, the display interface being what I particularly described, the only difference is that it pumps raw digital video data into the SNES.
Hey the next post would be your 256th post, hope it does not wrap back to zero and make you disappear! ;D
I didn't say it would be simple, but I took a glance at their schematics and at least think it would be possible (but say nothing to it's practicality). I really think the absolute roughest part would be dealing with space. It might be more possible if you dropped it's ability to run on batteries.
Anyone experience this? The screen looks like it is tilted to the right (it is very noticable on the lower right hand corner). I have an AV Famicom and Tri-Star/Super 8 converter as well as toaster NES and they all do that on any TV display.
Is there a fix to this?
magnetism?
maybe a broken tv..
That's normal for any NES/Famicom system. The picture is shifted a tile to the right, most noticeable in SMB3. There's no fix, that's the way it should be ;).
My TV looks like it stretches pixels a bit in some places. In other words it looks as though the pixel is 1 pixel tall and 2 pixels wide. Is this what you are experiancing? If yes it may be a magnetic issue or your horizontal hold may be starting to go.
Ok, so yesterday I fixed my FDS, realligning the belt and the head and I finally got most games to work with it perfectly. Before every game I tried was giving me error 22 as soon as the game was put in. Now, I've gotten Metroid, Ice Hockey, Smash Ping Pong, and Tennis all to work perfectly fine with no errors so far.
Doki Doki Panic will initially load on side A and come up with the title screen and little movie and then that message that tells you to switch to side B. But when I take the card out and put in side B, it tries to load for a few seconds and then comes up with error 22. I've tried this 2-3 times and I get the same result each time. Is there something I'm missing here? Do you have to press a button or something before you switch to side B? It seems weird that the game doesn't stop once that message comes up to let you change disk sides, it just keeps on cycling through the same title sequence. First game I've seen like this.
But if there isn't a trick to loading it, what could the problem be? My copy of Doki Doki Panic was brand new, factory sealed and purchased from toysonthelink just like all the other games I mentioned above. I just opened it last night so I don't think it could possibly have any scratches or dirt on it yet. The only other disk related problem I could think of that might be causing it not to load side B is that the disk has become demagnetized over time on that one side. But how likely is it that a disk would get demagnetized on just one side? Perhaps my FDS just needs some more fine tuning? I really hope that's all it is. I have a second brand new copy on its way in the mail and I don't want to have to open it if I can avoid it but I may need to for comparison with the other disk to see if it's a disk problem. Any help would be much appreciated.
I cant solve your problem, but you dont have to press any button when you switch to side B on DDP....
And I have a brand new game that doesn´t work aswell (apple town story), atleast not side A (side B i dont know for that reason),
Try wiping the magnetic disk with a q-tip through the opening as you rotate it with your fingers. It worked for several of the games that I have that were giving me errors. Worth a try since it isn't working anyways....good luck!
Hello, I'm new to this whole famicom deal. I throught I brought a famicom but instand I got this http://cgi.ebay.com/Japanese-FAMICOM-FC-NES-Game-Console-System-Games-NEW_W0QQitemZ170217258392QQihZ007QQcategoryZ139971QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem would anyone know how to hook this thing up? Where can I get a famicom made by nintendo as I throught this one was unitl I found out it wasn't thanks for any help.
Welcome to the forums! ;D Check out the Introduce Yourself thread ;).
There's nothing special about hooking that Famiclone up. Hook it up just like any other console :).
BTW this Famiclone appears to be very good, according to members which have it. You made a good purchase ;).
dont you read the text in the auction before you buy it??
It says: (not branded, not made by Nintendo)
;D
I have one of these exact clones though I paid wayy more for it (I guess I got scammed.....damnit)
As far as I or 133MHz can tell, they're not Famiclones based on the NOAC but are rather instead just a reverse eningeered Famiclone.
I'd recommend you buy yourself an AV Famicom. The original is nice but problematic; RF only, very short, perminately attached controllers difficult to find a clean system, etc.
The AV Famicom is more expensive but has the same AV cable that the SNES/N64/GC use, uses the same pin design as the NES so you can use NES controllers with it and best of all, it looks damn awesome :P
Quote from: satoshi_matrix on May 09, 2008, 09:37:13 am
they're not Famiclones based on the NOAC but are rather instead just a reverse eningeered Famiclone.
Well, the NOAC is a reverse engineered Famicom, just a badly reverse engineered one :P.
Hi,
My Nintendo NES Console (Jap. Version) became out of order recently. It shows black screen on TV.
After opening the case of the console. I found that there are two PCB board. CPU is installed on one PCB board. And TV module is on another PCB board.
I think that the TV Module PCB board is out of order. And I want to make and build a new PCB board to replace the failed it.
I found that there are 4 wired connection between the CPU PCB board and the TV Moudle PCB Board.
There are labeled as
+V, GND, V, A
I guess that +V represent 5V power supply. GND represent Ground(0V)
Might you suggest a circuit schematic diagram of the TV module to me? Though I observed that there is a TV module circuit diagram on your website, but it seems not suitable because there are four input for Video module (+V, GND, In1, In2).
Many thanks for your kindly assistance.
George
Use the module from a Famiclone.
what is famiclone? I didn't have it.
Do you have the schematic diagram of the AV module of famiclone?
Thanks.
George
Hi guys. I'm getting a famicom today, the original famicom to be exact and it doesn't come with an AC adapter however I do have the Super Famicom AC adapter.
it's specs are.
AC100V 50-60hz 16VA
DC10V 850mA
Would that work?
Quote from: Justin on May 12, 2008, 09:45:16 am
Hi guys. I'm getting a famicom today, the original famicom to be exact and it doesn't come with an AC adapter however I do have the Super Famicom AC adapter.
it's specs are.
AC100V 50-60hz 16VA
DC10V 850mA
Would that work?
I'm pretty sure you'll fry your famicom if you plug that adapter in. Well make sure by waiting the response of the other members of the forum.
Quote from: FamicomFreak on May 12, 2008, 09:50:48 am
Quote from: Justin on May 12, 2008, 09:45:16 am
Hi guys. I'm getting a famicom today, the original famicom to be exact and it doesn't come with an AC adapter however I do have the Super Famicom AC adapter.
it's specs are.
AC100V 50-60hz 16VA
DC10V 850mA
Would that work?
I'm pretty sure you'll fry your famicom if you plug that adapter in. Well make sure by waiting the response of the other members of the forum.
Yeah, I'll wait for more answers. I don't want to try it.
If you live in a 110/115/120/127V country it will work just fine.
Quote from: 133MHz on May 12, 2008, 10:26:02 am
If you live in a 110/115/120/127V country it will work just fine.
Thank you so much. I'm in North America. :) I'll be fine then.
Quote from: Justin on May 12, 2008, 09:45:16 am
Hi guys. I'm getting a famicom today, the original famicom to be exact and it doesn't come with an AC adapter however I do have the Super Famicom AC adapter.
it's specs are.
AC100V 50-60hz 16VA
DC10V 850mA
Would that work?
The bit end isnt the same size, and also Famicoms use DC 9 or 8. The best kit I have found for a famicom is this: http://cgi.ebay.com/AC-ADAPTER-TV-RF-SWITCH-for-Nintendo-Sega-Super-SNES_W0QQitemZ330235599247QQihZ014QQcategoryZ139969QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Its completely compatible, both the RF switch and power supply work excellent on my original Famicom.
(http://images.marketworks.com/hi/71/71296/universal_combo_2.jpg)
Quote from: Justin on May 12, 2008, 10:29:44 am
Quote from: 133MHz on May 12, 2008, 10:26:02 am
If you live in a 110/115/120/127V country it will work just fine.
Thank you so much. I'm in North America. :) I'll be fine then.
Yeah, I plugged it in and scanned channels from 01 to 100 and nothing showed up. :(
I tried it on two different tv's, it's just not working between channels 01 to 100. However, I can tell that the console does turn on because there's heat in the back and near the cartridge slot. :(
Quote from: Justin on May 12, 2008, 12:09:15 pm
I tried it on two different tv's, it's just not working between channels 01 to 100. However, I can tell that the console does turn on because there's heat in the back and near the cartridge slot. :(
Set the famicom on channel 1 setting on the back, then flip to channel 95. My famicom works on all TV's that I own on Channel 95.
Quote from: Justin on May 12, 2008, 12:09:15 pm
I tried it on two different tv's, it's just not working between channels 01 to 100. However, I can tell that the console does turn on because there's heat in the back and near the cartridge slot. :(
Are you using a cable box or a VCR? If so, make sure the RF adapter is connected before them. That is, go from the cable from your wall => RF adapter => Cablebox/VCR => TV. If you put it after the Cablebox/VCR then it won't work.
Quote from: UglyJoe on May 12, 2008, 12:27:55 pm
Quote from: Justin on May 12, 2008, 12:09:15 pm
I tried it on two different tv's, it's just not working between channels 01 to 100. However, I can tell that the console does turn on because there's heat in the back and near the cartridge slot. :(
Are you using a cable box or a VCR? If so, make sure the RF adapter is connected before them. That is, go from the cable from your wall => RF adapter => Cablebox/VCR => TV. If you put it after the Cablebox/VCR then it won't work.
The RF adapter is connected right onto the TV since I don't have cable tv, I have satelite and that's connected VIA component and HDMI on my tvs.
Quote from: Justin on May 12, 2008, 12:31:33 pm
The RF adapter is connected right onto the TV since I don't have cable tv, I have satelite and that's connected VIA component and HDMI on my tvs.
Hmm. Random guess: does your TV have two tuners (one for HD and one for standard)? If so, have you tried both?
Quote from: UglyJoe on May 12, 2008, 12:36:20 pm
Quote from: Justin on May 12, 2008, 12:31:33 pm
The RF adapter is connected right onto the TV since I don't have cable tv, I have satelite and that's connected VIA component and HDMI on my tvs.
Hmm. Random guess: does your TV have two tuners (one for HD and one for standard)? If so, have you tried both?
I've tried the RF on my nes and it does indeed work on channel 3. however, nothing from the famicom. :(
Quote from: The Uninvited Gremlin on May 12, 2008, 12:26:40 pm
Quote from: Justin on May 12, 2008, 12:09:15 pm
I tried it on two different tv's, it's just not working between channels 01 to 100. However, I can tell that the console does turn on because there's heat in the back and near the cartridge slot. :(
Set the famicom on channel 1 setting on the back, then flip to channel 95. My famicom works on all TV's that I own on Channel 95.
That's weird, on the back I don't have 1 or 2. My famicom has channels 3-4. :/
Well I don't know what exactly it is but my T89 (http://www.famicomworld.com/Doodads/Spica_T89.htm) adapter works but has some wierd problems going on with it. What I did was plug in my 76 in 1 game and finally got it to work. The title screen worked perfectly and I could move the cursor around and everything. Then I press "Page 1" and it just resets itself and goes back to the title screen again. I don't know why it is doing this but I kinda want my converter to work because I spent a good deal of money on it.
Please give more details about your setup. Have you tried other Famicom games on it? Are you using a toploader or toaster NES? Have you disabled your toaster's lockout chip? etc.
I'm using a toaster NES, no lock-out chip mods done.
I'll try playing Joy Mecha Fight or Zoids later on and see if those games work.
Hello all. Since this is Famicomworld I felt this was the right place to ask for some info.
Some years ago my brother bought a famicom with some games but never tested it. It disappeared and until recently I found it in the garage and it didn't work. After some testing and help I found that the voltage regulator was bad and voltage was going in but zero came out. I changed it and it works.
On to the interesting part. I noticed on all the images I googled of Famicom's none of them had more that the controller cables sticking out of the back. Mine has 2 A/V type cables coming out from under controller two. It's not an AV famicom it's a white and red original. It had to have been a mod because the plastic is cut/shaved for the cables to fit perfect.
On the inside it doesn't look at all like the mod on this site. No breadboard. The cables are soldered and possibly jumping some components on the smaller board. Audio sounds perfect but the colors on the video are off. It displays a bit dark, shading seems to be missing and I see some faint wide lines going top to bottom.
Looks pretty much the same through the AV cables as it does through the RF adapter. Any idea why it's so dark? I can't find my brothers digital camera but when I find it I will post some pictures of where these cables are soldered to. Perhaps this mod is what's making it display dark and colors wrong? I have a vid card that does composite in on my computer and a regular NES, and anything else composite, looks fine. Here are some screenshots of "Transformers Mystery of Comvoy". After youtubing some videos level 2 totally does not look right.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3186/2586752248_87f8f7f501.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3171/2586752256_28e3a11f71.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3076/2586752272_3a6b0c6d44.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3037/2585916601_fabcec9f90.jpg)
Any idea why shading would not be there? Def doesn't look like the screens on this page.
http://transformers.wikia.com/wiki/Transformers:_Mystery_of_Convoy (http://transformers.wikia.com/wiki/Transformers:_Mystery_of_Convoy)
Thanks for any info. Sorry for the giant post. ;D
If there's no circuit then the mod is picking up the weak video signal from the board and that's why it looks dark. If you build the transistor circuit that's on the site it will amplify the video signal to normal levels making it look brighter.
So that's what it is. I initially thought woah someone figured it out without doing the circuit. But if there was an easy way like that it would be all over the internet.
Now I need a picture of the smaller board, to see how it should look, to undo what they did. Using and NES RF unit doesn't seem to be working correctly. I can see it fuzzy on channel 8 but no sound just fuzz noise.
I can solder and get the parts but I can't read schematics to build the circuit. Has anyone made a video or made a picture tutorial on how to make it? The instructions on the site aren't friendly for me. :-[
Anyone have a good sized picture of the smaller board on the Famicom?
No one has a picture of the smaller famicom board?
I removed the cables the person had soldered and I can see the picture better than before(RF). The picture is still fuzzy so I assume some of the soldered together parts aren't the way they originally were.
I have not found a picture online. The one on this site is small and has that metal/aluminum sheidling over it. :-[
Not sure if you know how to read it, but here's a famicom schematic: http://nesdev.icequake.net/Ntd_8bit.jpg
133mhz could probably help you out with figuring out what's wrong with your famicom. It might help if you posted pics of your board, too.
Did you remove every trace of the previous mod? And yeah, pictures of the board would be nice :)
Here's a good guide, but in Japanese. The pics should give you an idea. http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav.html
Here's a pic of the small board from my famicom. Hope it helps. I assume you wanted a pic of the bottom. ;)
(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/pingaloquita/Famicomboard.jpg)
(http://usuarios.lycos.es/dogbert/img/famicomboard.jpg)
The four pins (badly) marked in red should be +5V, Ground, Audio and Video (weak) in no particular order. It's up to a Famicom owner to discover which is which ;).
You should be able to get your signals there no matter what board revision your Famicom is. You could even remove the Famicom RF board and install a NES RF modulator box, that would leave your Famicom with US compatible power & RF output and AV out as a bonus! But that would be some kind of major surgery. My point is, you can get all the necessary signals to do the AV mod from that point without fiddling around on the main board.
Thanks for all this info guys. Unfortunately I couldn't read a schematic to save my life. I can partially follow it, because of my programming background, but soldering and following directions is about as electronics as I get. I do plan on learning more about electronics since it's rather interesting and useful to be able to fix/service your own synths, pedals and what not.
My smaller board doesn't look like yours 133mhz. The clear ribbon looking cable is on the opposite side of yours. Mine looks like the board on that Japanese site. Looking at the ribbon mine has about 7 points while yours has 4.
This NES to Famicom RF switch sounds interesting. Is there any documentation on this? I have 3 Nintendo's and one is open/apart and I could def take that one apart. Looking at the NES I see one area where there are 5 solder points in a row and when I flip the board over that looks to be the points soldered to the main nes board.
I think I can follow the regulator or test for the +5v ok, and the cheap mod I removed was audio so that would leave out video and ground...and that would leave 4 pins...I think the +5v has 2 soldered together.
I will get my brothers digi camera tomorrow and post some pics. Also by using the NES board on the famicom would stereo sound be possible like the NES mod?(separating pulse to one channel and the noise/wave/sample channel to the other?
Thanks for taking the time to help me. I didn't want to put this Famicom back into storage. I want to put it to play and get that pin adapter to use NES games on it too. :)
Found my brothers digi camera here we go.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3174/2605033559_d71f1c19c4.jpg)
Hehe I guess the wink meant at first you might not notice but the letters to what each wire is is printed on the board. Compared to yours one of the extra pins is for the power switch and the other is soldered together(VCC).
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3124/2605033867_9abcf01ceb.jpg)
This is the NES RF/AV/Power board. From a link on benheck's forums I think those are the A V pins. Not totally sure of course. So essential what you meant before was it is possible to remove the original famicom board and transplant an NES one, by knowing which pin goes where.
Has anyone ever done this transplant/mod?
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3230/2605033825_f1ec366f9d.jpg)
Not that this one matters anymore but that is how the A/V cables that looked dark but sounded fine were connected.
I'll now check the NES RF box for you, I'll be back with the answer in a couple of minutes.
Here you go:
(http://usuarios.lycos.es/dogbert/img/rfbox.JPG)
The two leftmost contacts marked with a (http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/symbols/swspst.gif) are the power switch contacts. Short these together to turn on the RF box. The third one is 5V, and the others are Audio & Video respectively. Ground is the metal shield, or the middle pin on the 7805 voltage regulator. And yeah, by knowing which pin does what you can replace the Famicom RF board for the NES one and it'll work perfectly, with fully functioning RF & AV outputs!
Thanks. The shorting of those switch contacts is the only thing I sort of need clarification on. So that corresponds to the VCC on the famicom that is soldered together? Hooking up the famicom power switch to that is the only thing I am ??? I think you mean solder them together and solder the white end of the switch to that and solder the white/red end to ground. Is that right?
thanks. I am going to the store and when I come back I will give it a go.
I might give that a go as well as I have an old Famicom with that same board, which I tried unsuccessfully to mod according to one of the Japanese pages. It's just been sitting upside down with case off for months now. I can't even tell if it works or not as none of my TV sets has the right channel in its RF range.
I could never get my famicom to work either. Since I have a twin fami and a few famiclones, I really don't care. Someday I'll get that bastard to work ;)
Every time you mod a famicom, all the other Famicoms will be worth a little more. :P
Quote from: ericj on June 28, 2008, 05:46:44 pm
I could never get my famicom to work either. Since I have a twin fami and a few famiclones, I really don't care. Someday I'll get that bastard to work ;)
Yeah I ended up getting a Famicom AV in the end but I'm glad I did as it's a lovely machine. I'm just sore about the amount of time and money I spent finding the original Famicom (not an easy thing to come by in the UK) and then racing around, buying parts and looking for info online. You live and learn I guess ::)
Hi, I have only recently ordered an original famicom, and it arrived a few days ago.
So today I decided to set it up. I managed to connect it to my TV and get an appropriate converter, and didn't really have much trouble apart from a single thing: the sound doesn't seem to work correctly.
So after trying out all channels on my TV (on both CH1 and CH2) I failed to find one that fits, so I went looking for frequencies. I ended up finding a few good frequencies that displayed fine (one on CH1 that worked fine, and one on CH2 that worked fine), however sound-wise there is either nothing, or really really bad quality sound, unbearably loud TV buzzing and having the actual sound somewhere mixed in quietly.
Does anybody have a clue on what might be wrong?
It's not really an urgent help request, but playing without sound is rather irritiating on the long run, and I would certainly prefer having it. Thanks in advance!
My second-player controller seems to cause a loud buzzing. Try adjusting the volume slider on the controller and see if the buzzing gets quieter/louder as you move it. If so, try moving the second-player controller around and see if it helps (works for me, just have to orient it the right way and the buzzing stops).
After testing, the microphone did not make a difference relating to the loud buzzing noise, so that's sadly not the solution.
Thanks, though!
What channel are you using for your Famicom? Remember that even if Japan and the US are NTSC, they're slightly different in the channel frequency table, so you may get decent video but the audio tuning is slightly off and your TV can't compensate. You'll have to look for an Automatic Fine Control or similar and disable it, and fiddle with the fine tuning (if you can find such a setting, it mostly disappeared from modern TVs) until you get clear sound.
As a theoretical experiment you could fiddle with the coils inside the Famicom RF board, but I wouldn't do that since you'd probably do more harm than good.
Thank you, I'll go have a look if there's some sort of Automatic Fine Control that I can disable, though I'm not quite sure what you mean. Are you referring to the frequency search?
I don't use a particular default channel that's on my TV (I've raided all of them and didn't find any that seemed to output much apart from snowstorms), but one I set to the frequency 096.50 (with the famicom on CH1). This one gives me decent video output but lacking in sound completely. I've messed around and searched through all the available frequencies, however all frequencies involving sound contain the problematic buzzing noises. I've tried both CH1 and CH2, though I'm not sure what the difference between those is, apart from the fact that they use different frequencies.
QuoteRemember that even if Japan and the US are NTSC
On another note, maybe I should have stated this earlier but I live in europe (though my TV is capable of working with NTSC).
I wonder if this might be part of the problem, or the problem itself. <<;
That may be it. Most European TVs which are capable of displaying NTSC video usually only allow it through their AV inputs (RCA or S-Video), they cannot tune into NTSC broadcasts. Maybe your TV is trying to demodulate the audio from the signal in some European standard (B/G/K/N) instead of the American/Japanese one (M/J).
It seems you'll have to AV mod your console.
The TV I own is a Daewoo 20C4NT made in europe, so that definitely sounds like a possibility.
However, I'm rather nervous about opening up my fami so I'm not sure if I really want to AV mod it. From what I understand it's simply skipping the high frequency stuff and making it directly go to the TV per AV, right? I can picture it, however I'd need a lot of stuff to go do such a mod as well.
Are there any easier/less risky alternatives? I recall something about VCRs, but I'm really not sure.
If you had an NTSC VCR with a/v out, you could connect the Famicom to the VCR and connect the VCR to your TV with the a/v cables. What you're after is an NTSC tuner, which an NTSC VCR will have. I'm not an expert when it comes to PAL/NTSC differences, but I don't see why that wouldn't work.
UglyJoe is right. Keep in mind that the VCR should be able to tune into NTSC broadcasts, not just play NTSC tapes (as most multisystem VCRs).
howdy folks. having some fds problems and i figured this is the place to come for help.
recently picked up a copy of wardner no mori / ワードナの森, and for some reason the sound is really scratchy and unpleasant. if i had to describe it i'd say there's a more ragged edge to the sound; it's never smooth but always slightly static-y. at first i thought it was the old headphones i was using, but it happens even from the tv's speakers.
my famicom and fds are in fine working order, and i haven't seen this problem with any of my other discs. so is it possible this is somehow related to damage or wear-and-tear on this specific copy? or is it just how all copies of this game are?
Clean the cartridge contacts on your Famicom and on your FDS RAM adapter.
contacts are clean, but i gave them a once-over last night and it didn't change anything. warder no mori still sounds a little scratchy, and it's unique to that particular game
Hello,
i've just found my old famicom in a cupboard and remembered i foolishly broke it when i was a kid by plugging in an incorrect ac adapter (tragic childhood memory).
anyway, i want to fix it and after taking a look, i've popped a transistor and it just so happens to have got rid of the writing on it telling me what transistor it is... so, basically i was wondering if anyone had any idea what transistor it is? or even better what transistor i need to get to replace it. I've attached a photo so you know which transistor i'm on about (i've taken off the heatsink).
thanks very much everyone,
hello famicom world ^_^
>Marcus
edit: The sticker on the back says it's a HVC-002 but the engraving in the plastic says HVC-001...(?)
also, sorry if this in the wrong place just saw the repair thread at the top :/
It's a voltage regulator. I think it's 8306, but someone on here can verify.
Also, check around the site. There are probably already pics someplace with the part number you're looking for.
EDIT: Oh yeah, welcome! :)
Welcome! It should be a 7805. Replacements are around a dollar each.
Quote from: 133MHz on August 07, 2008, 11:56:23 am
It should be a 7805. Replacements are around a dollar each.
haha, yeah, that's what I meant :P
Also, you probably want to check out your capacitors, they typically get fried, too. :)
ahh cheers guys :D
i've already looked around at all the caps and none were bulging or had stuff coming out of them heh, so i guess they're fine :D
i'm getting on this now... 63p from maplins, awesome.
now i gotta find all the games :D
thanks again!
Here's a question. Is the belt that goes on the disk drive in my Sharp Twin Famicom the same size as the one that fits on regular FDS? I ask because I found a Yahoo JP auction for a belt that specifically says it's for the Twin. Was there any difference at all?
Here's the link:
http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fpage18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp%2Fjp%2Fauction%2Fw26895418&sl=ja&tl=en&hl=ja&ie=UFT-8
Also, is that a fair price? I would be getting it through Shopping Mall Japan so there would be even more fees added. I haven't heard anyone mention what the going rate for one of the belts is. I want a backup around for when I need it most.
I think the belts are the same on the FDS and Twin. Some auctions come with two thicknesses. 800Y is a bit expensive. You can find auctions at 350Y BIN, but the one that was up isn't anymore because a buddy of mine just bought it. I've been waiting for it to be relisted, 'cause I need two belts. You can buy more than one belt at the listed price in most of these auctions, but that requires contacting the seller.
EDIT: Relisted: HERE (http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g69375875)
I own a famicom twin, and ever since I got it the video has been a bit off. I can't really describe it, but it looks like every other line of some sprites is missing (either transparent, or replaced with black, depending on game and sprites). I am not sure if this is exactly what is happening, and other problems (eg slight misalignments) happen as well. It is especially noticable in SMB, where is just doesn't look "right", and especially in 3D hot rally in the status bar, where all the text definitely has every other line missing. I'll take a photo tomorrow to show you.
In the Retro Gamer forum, someone suggested it could have been poor power input problems, and I do use 7.5V with a generic DC adaptor rather than 7.6V like it says it requires. I don't use the original because I live in the UK, and we use 240V, so a 100V adaptor would probably completely piss up.
EDIT: Oh sorry, I didn't see this thread. Thanks for moving my post.
133mhz is our tech whiz, so he can probably help. :)
My first thought is that you have a cold solder joint or a weak capacitor on the power supply board.
Other ideas could be a cold solder joint on the video composite output. Does the image quality change if you mess around with the video output while you're playing it?
Edit: How does your TV look when different electronics are hooked up to the video input? It's a good idea to rule out the tv first.
Here are some photos:
(http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/5263/img0069ow0.jpg)
(http://img395.imageshack.us/img395/2449/img0070di8.jpg)
(http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/7315/img0071yy8.jpg)
(http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/1300/img0072qh5.jpg)
(http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/5968/img0073dg7.jpg)
(http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1278/img0074za3.jpg)
(http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/4819/img0075mb5.jpg)
(http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/8962/img0076nb7.jpg) (yes, the lines in this one are visible (in fact moreso than is visible here) on the TV screen with the naked eye)
Lines running around the picture could be because of poor power filtering on the power adapter side (dry or inadequate filter capacitor) but to tell you the truth I don't see anything wrong in the SMB pics :-\. Do you get any sort of buzzing in the audio?
As ericj said, have you tried another telly?
You might also want to try another set of RCA cables to rule them out as well. Also, check and make sure there isn't corrosion on the female video output on the Twin.
QuoteLines running around the picture
They don't run around the picture, they stay static, and only in some places in some games (see the 3D Hot Rally Status Bar picture)
QuoteI don't see anything wrong in the SMB pics
It is supposed to be SMB2J. So where is the shadow below the text? And look at the Mario and Koopa sprites in the 3rd pic. They look really horrible where the colours join.
Quotehave you tried another telly?
I will try this
QuoteYou might also want to try another set of RCA cables to rule them out as well.
I'll try this as well
QuoteAlso, check and make sure there isn't corrosion on the female video output on the Twin.
There actually is a bit, but surely corrosion would mean that the bad bits of the image change if you wobble it about (Whereas the bad bits are consistent and happen every time)
I want to make sure i'm absolutely clear on this. I just got my Sharp Twin Famicom from the post office today but I still haven't got the converter yet. Am I correct that it will be ok to play on it for a short amount of time without the converter but for the long run I should have one? I'm using an american outlet and a Japanese ac adapter that say AC 100v and DC 7.6v.
I really want to play it but I don't want to fry it. Help me out here.
I use my Twin with the adapter it came with it and it's been fine. I only plug it in when I play it and unplug it when I'm done. You'll be okay. ;)
Most US devices operate on 110V input. I don't think a converter is really necessary and is a waste of $. The AC adapter only provides 7.6V output, even with 110V input. The AC adapter will just get a little warm but it won't harm it for short periods but may if plugged in all the time. AC adapters should never be plugged in all the time anyways unless you want to prematurely kill them.
toysonlinehk has a power thing and it's great.
I've left it plugged in for over a week and nothing went wrong.
I have one coming in the mail from them right now. I'm glad to hear some one has used it with no problem though. I just got finished hooking up my Twin and playing it for the first time! I love it! Now I just have to wait for the rest of my games to get here.
Thanks for the info guys!
I'm having trouble loading my Toy Story unlicensed original. It's a glob-top. I suspect there's nothing that can be done, but just in case, I thought I'd post here. I cleaned the contacts and lined up the pins. Weird thing is that it worked a week before it got to me. It's the only one in a lot hat didn't work.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/toy_story_messed.jpg)
An address or data line could have shorted due to electrostatic discharge. Happened to Kevin Horton as seen here (http://www.tripoint.org/kevtris/files/Mari7in1.txt)
Quote from: Kevin HortonAn aside: When I got this cart, it was sort of DOA. The CHR ROM had some
major problems... apparently the CHR ROM underwent an ESD event (read: static
electricty) which blew the input protection circuitry. There was a "soft"
short between A8 and A13 of about 34 ohms. I managed to fix this however
by connecting A8 to 5V and then shorting A13 to ground. The cart functions
properly and I got to dump it :-)
Care enough to whip out the multimeter and test them?
I have a famicom that I got from ebay; was posted as "as-is" but in very good condition (no scratches and came with the AC adapter and the RF adapter all orignal). I received it and when I connected it to my tv with the RF adapter that came with it and a NES RF while using the AC adapter that came with it. No luck even when going through all the channels. The tv displays the famous white noise and doesn't change or flicker if I turn on or off the famicom.
I tested the voltage out of the AC adapter (17V) and tested the amps (around 4 or 5 amps) so I know the AC adapter is working. I was reading on this board that a lot of times the 7803 power regulator goes so I replaced that; no luck. I do know that the game works fine because I also have one of those "family boy" Chinese clones to test the game in.
I was thinking about replacing the caps but not to sure if that is the problem since the tops of the caps look fine. Any suggestions on what might be wrong? I can post pics if needed.
Hello, welcome to the forums! ;D
You could try to see if you get some sort of composite video signal from the point(s) used to do the AV mod, touch the outer ring of the audio RCA connector to a ground plane and the tip of the video connector to the solder point used as video out, all these with the Famicom turned on, a game in, and the TV on and in AV mode. You should get a weak, dark video signal at the very least.
You could also try running it through a VCR with a NES RF switch and see if that works.
EDIT: Check to see if there is power to the on/off switch.
Quote from: ericj on August 14, 2008, 05:34:48 pm
You could also try running it through a VCR with a NES RF switch and see if that works.
EDIT: Check to see if there is power to the on/off switch.
I tried running it through a DVD recorder with the NES RF switch and that didn't help. I tested the voltage through the power switch and I was getting zero.
Quote from: 133MHz on August 14, 2008, 05:26:06 pm
Hello, welcome to the forums! ;D
You could try to see if you get some sort of composite video signal from the point(s) used to do the AV mod, touch the outer ring of the audio RCA connector to a ground plane and the tip of the video connector to the solder point used as video out, all these with the Famicom turned on, a game in, and the TV on and in AV mode. You should get a weak, dark video signal at the very least.
Do I have to build the whole AV mod circuit or can I just take a composite wire and touch to the points on the Famicom boards?
You can just take the composite video wire and touch it to the video points on the board. The image will be dark and washed out, but it will be enough proof that the Famicom is working.
Quote from: 133MHz on August 15, 2008, 04:54:13 pm
You can just take the composite video wire and touch it to the video points on the board. The image will be dark and washed out, but it will be enough proof that the Famicom is working.
So I took and connected the center pin on the video cable and touched it to IN1 and then IN2 (one at a time). Then I connected the outer ring on the video cable to the metal shielding on the RF board. Plugged the famicom in and turned it on with a game in it and nothing.
I am wondering if there is a problem with the RF board. Any way of testing it to make sure the components are good?
Picture came from: http://www.famicomworld.com/Workshop/AV_Mod.htm (http://www.famicomworld.com/Workshop/AV_Mod.htm)
Sounds like your Famicom is dead. Are you sure it's getting power? The RF board could be energized but that doesn't mean that the logic board is getting power.
I tested the AC adapter and I am getting somewhere around 16V coming out of it and a few amps. It is the correct AC adapter for the famicom. Could one of the capacitors be shot and stopping the voltage?
The 7805 regulator could be bad. You should have 5V between the rightmost pin and ground.
I replaced the 7805 with a new one from Radioshack. Tested the voltage on the pins and got only a few mili-volts. I tried following the path starting where you plug the ac adapter into the unit. I came across a capacitor and when measuring the voltage from ground to one side of the cap the voltage was close to the 16 but was dropping quickly. I can not tell what the rating is on the cap because of the metal shielding around the RF side. Anyone have the ratings on the capacitors so I can try replacing them?
You clearly said that you're not getting any significant voltage on the 7805, there's your problem.
Capacitors shouldn't cause problems unless they have visibly exploded and/or leak electrolyte.
Maybe you've got a defective power switch, or something else in the path.
Thank you for your help so far.
I know the power swith works because with the unit unplugged, I used the ohm setting on my meter and with the power switch in the on position I get a "closed" reading on my meter.
Well, if it is the board is anyone willing to donate/sell a working famicom board?
Have you tried re-flowing the solder on the PS board? Could just be a cold solder joint somewhere.
I tried taking my soldering iron and re-heating the larger areas of solder on the PS board. What is odd is on some of them when I re-heated them a brown/orange bubbles came out from under them. It looked almost like it was old dried flux.
Quote from: wolf9545 on August 17, 2008, 06:24:04 am
It looked almost like it was old dried flux.
That's because it IS old dried flux :P
I was talking to a guy at a local flea market who knows his stuff about old systems. During the week he looked into my problem a bit and he said that cap 402 and 404 were leaking. Does the numbers sound right? I found a schematic for the famicom but don't see those on there. He also said that they are hard to find.
Pics? Also most caps in a Famicom aren't critical about their exact values (except for those in the video output section, different values would change how the picture is displayed). If they're power or noise rejecting related there shouldn't be any problems with putting higher value caps in their place.
What pics are you looking for? I can take them after I am done with work.
Well, pics of your Famicom board, RF board, especially around the suspect capacitors.
Quote from: 133MHz on August 18, 2008, 11:32:53 am
Well, pics of your Famicom board, RF board, especially around the suspect capacitors.
Well here are pics of my famicom; http://www.flickr.com/photos/7524204@N07/sets/72157606816472960/ (http://www.flickr.com/photos/7524204@N07/sets/72157606816472960/) . I had to post them onto flickr because every time I tried to upload them here, even one file at a time, I was getting an error saying that the upload folder is full. The one cap that I think might be having problems is in the picture of the RF board; it is the one that is to the right and up of the very large cap. If you want more/better photos just let me know.
Oh so you're freespamfree. Nice ;D
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3243/2776370880_76ca50169a.jpg)
^
|
This is a fuse. Check it, maybe it's blown.
Do you mean the black bar? Odd, never saw a fuse like that before. Let me check it; normal ohms testing right?
Well I placed my multimeter on OHMS setting and one lead on each end and it came up with it was an open circuit. I also placed the multimeter on DIODE testing and again open circuit. Fuse might be bad. I never tested it because I didn't know it was a fuse. Where could I get a fuse to replace it; without spending more on the shipping then on the part?
Replace it with a fine piece of wire.
Quote from: 133MHz on August 18, 2008, 04:34:24 pm
Replace it with a fine piece of wire.
Why a fine piece of wire; make shift fuse? Does anyone know what the rating is on that fuse? I wouldn't mind replacing it with a another fuse just in case something happens.
1.5A
I can clearly read it from your picture.
You can solder a standard glass fuse holder and install a regular fuse if you like. But I wouldn't bother.
Well stupid me. I am so used to not much being written on the items that I didn't even think of looking. I will try soldering a piece of wire across the fuse so I don't have to remove it. This way the unit can still be fairly orignal.
Hello!
I'm Looking for some advice and help...Anything would be greatly appreciated..
I've recently bought a Sharp Famicom twin system and replaced the belt. This system came with one disk game (not sure the name of it), after doing some adjustments to the motor, side "A" gives me error 23, while side "B" gives me the "A"."B". wrong side of the game error...Is it possible for the data in side A to be corrupted?...The game is not in the best shape either...Like I said, its the only disk that I've in hand at the moment...
Also, the disk drive head moves up and down 2 times before stoping while trying to read the disk, is this a normal behavior of a disk drive system?....Thanks in advance!..
That thing's a fuse?
Weird, just yesterday I was using a glass tube fuse as a DS stylus.
Quote from: 133MHz on August 18, 2008, 04:34:24 pm
Replace it with a fine piece of wire.
Well I jumped the fuse with a piece of wire and YIPPEEEEEEEEE! I now have a working, and in very good condition, famicom. Thank you. Also, just for everyone's knowledge my famicom works on my new tv (CRT) channel 95.
You've inspired me to take apart my non-working famicon and see if it has the same problem. It's the only thing I haven't yet tried.
Okay, I searched the threads but I found no answer to my specific question. I just got a bundle of games I ordered online and all of them worked great except for one disk. When I try to load it into my Twin I get the Error 27 message. I have 4 other disks that all work great including one that came in the bundle as this one. Does 27 mean my disk is screwed or could it still be my Twin even though all the other disks work? (Err. 27 = Block end mark seen but ends prematurely) What does this actually mean?
Quote from: ericj on August 19, 2008, 05:46:35 pm
You've inspired me to take apart my non-working famicon and see if it has the same problem. It's the only thing I haven't yet tried.
Oh, I forgot to say I left the new 7805 (power regulator) in the unit instead of replacing it with the orignal. I don't think that the orignal 7805 was bad but no sense putting it back in if everything works fine now.
I can't fucking believe it, but it fixed my Famicom. Mine works on channel 96 (CRT). Perhaps this is a very common problem with Famicoms? ???
I'm glad that you fixed your Famicoms ;D
I usually try to be pretty good about checking the simple things first. Doesn't get much more simple than a fuse. I never thought to check it because it looked okay.
Thanks for leading us down the right path, 133MHz! ;D
Yeah, thank you. I never checked the fuse because it looks like a resistor; the style that look like a block. I didn't even read it because I thought it was a resistor. I'm glad I didn't go replacing capacitors.
I just bought a famicom game boy advace sp from japan, its the limited one with the original famicom colors. The question i have is that the charger has a different rating than the US version. Is it ok for me to use the japan charger even though it says 100volts verses a 110 volts like our. Basically can i use there charger here in the US or do i have to use a US charger. where do i stand. Thankyou very much for your help.
I don't live in the US, but from advice I've heard others say in the past, as long as you don't leave it plugged in for a long amount of time it will be fine, but using a US one will be better.
Hey question does the fds use ac or dc? Itseems like it says ac. But i'm not sure.
I know I need dc for ma famicom.
The disk system uses DC9V @ 400mA, center negative. The FDS can run on batteries, so that's the tip off that it runs on DC, not AC. Theres info about the adaptor on the site.
That page on the adaptor on the site says "ac adaptor" though.....just thought i'd note that. Also....why does the back of the system say "ac"? that makes no sense.
I don't want to get pedantic, but Jero32 is right. In the strict sense of the word, an adapter outputs AC (it just adapts the voltage to a lower/higher level), and a transformer outputs DC (it transforms the electricity from AC to DC), but on everyday usage these get mixed up and nobody really cares :P. Also keep in mind that the adapter contains an iron transformer inside, leading to more confusion.
They're called AC adapters since they run on AC (unlike car adapters or DC-DC converters)
I stand corrected. Thanks 133MHz. :-[
So wait.....what does the fds use now? :o
Just use batteries :D
C, I think.
Dude those are expensive......And annoying to replace. I'll go with dc adaptor (but is that really what I need? It shouldn't matter if it uses ac but stil I have ac adaptors laying around no dc ones)
The original fds AC adaptor should work fine. If you don't have one, use one that shows at least 9V DC @ 400mA, center pole negative plug.
The voltage regulator in the FDS can handle 9-12V DC. Sound right, 133MHz?
Thank you......ya I already had to pull an adaptor out of my a** to get one for my fami......guess I'll have to buy one tommorow.
Search ebay for "9VDC 400mA" and there are a bunch for sale for under $10 shipped. Make sure you get a center pole negative one or reverse the wires to the output plug once you get it. Good luck! :)
Hi, I have a problem with the toploader Famicom. Whenever I turn it on it only displays a blackscreen with a white bar scrolling up. How can I fix this?
What AC adapter are you using?
Already got one......local store had one. So now I have 2 adaptors one with a proper rating for the fami (enough amps) and the same for the fds :-D
I have the feeling that our friend GinoZX is using his NES AC adapter with his AV Famicom :-[
That would be not so good. :-[
So I'm a tech n00b, why is it that nearly everything will die when powered by the NES AC adapter but the NES will run on just about anything?
The NES adapter provides AC output but almost all systems require a DC input. The NES adapter plug fits into many other game systems.
Yeah but if the NES adapter outpus AC why can it run on say a Sega Genesis adapter?
Because since the NES AC adapter puts out AC, the NES has an internal diode bridge rectifier to turn that AC into DC, which then gets filtered by the big filter capacitor and regulated down to 5V by the 7805 voltage regulator.
If you get DC into your NES (like using it with a Genesis adapter as you say), it will pass right through the bridge rectifier, unchanged. In fact the NES can run on AC, and DC of either polarity since the internal bridge rectifier will always convert the power to the correct polarity. The only way to blow up a NES would be feeding it a ridiculously high voltage (more than 30 volts).
If you get AC into a Famicom or similar, the alternating current will destroy filter capacitors and sensitive electronic components (remember alternating current oscillates between the positive and negative 50 or 60 times per second depending on where you live). Polarized electronics don't like when you feed them reverse voltage, they blow up if there's no protection. Since alternating current oscillates polarity so rapidly, it will damage stuff fairly quickly. Think of it as switching your console on and off 60 times per second WHILE reversing the polarity of the plug. Pretty nasty stuff :P.
Reversing polarity alone is just as damaging, but most systems come with some kind of protection. Most have a diode in series with the power input (a diode is like a one way valve for electricity, so if the power is coming in the wrong way, it won't be allowed to flow through the system), but don't count on it. Usually the first things to blow due to reverse polarity are the filter capacitors and the voltage regulator, and if you're unlucky, something else (like delicate chips) too. Other type of protection is a diode in reverse across the power input. This approach is a little weird but pretty effective. When the polarity is correct, the diode won't conduct (since it's in reverse), but when the polarity is reversed it will conduct fully, causing a short on the power supply (usually blowing a fuse or something), scaring the hell out of the user and protecting the equipment at the same time. Needless to say, this one's my favorite :P
In a nutshell, the main difference between the NES adapter and the Famicom adapter is that the Famicom adapter has the bridge rectifier and filter capacitor inside it, while in the NES it has been moved to the insides of the console. This gives the NES a fairly good amount of protection (it allows it to run on pretty much everything) while making the NES AC adapter a dangerous console killer.
Hope this helps. :)
Excellent explanation. :)
Thanks 133MHz, that helps alot.
You should write up some more articles like this and have them put on the site. This was extremely helpful 133MHz. Thanks ;D
BTW a protection diode won't save your console from the perils of feeding AC into it. The diode will just rectify the alternating current converting it into pulsing DC, which again would be the equivalent of switching your console on and off 60 times per second. You wouldn't do that to your beloved Famicom do you? ::)
That's why I say don't count on any internal protections. If you're testing polarity or whatever, switch on your console. If it doesn't work, or it displays rolling lines, buzzing, or anything weird, switch it off immediately.
Oh and BTW, please don't use your NES AC adapter for anything else than the NES. :)
Quote from: wentle85 on August 27, 2008, 06:10:22 pm
You should write up some more articles like this and have them put on the site. This was extremely helpful 133MHz. Thanks ;D
We have plans for 133MHz and the stuff in these threads...the ball's in UglyJoe's court right now...
Thanks 133MHz for the expenation. I didn't know about the NES adaptor......I tried using it when I accidentaly blow up my original Famicom adaptor. I ordered a new Famicom converter and also gonna buy a better elektricity converter >.<
You used a NES adapter with a Famicom? Better start looking for a new Famicom too.
Hello guys, I'm after a bit of info to help out someone on another forum.
He's just received an AV modded Fami and upon switching it on it blew up. He opened it up and said the wire connecting to the RCA jack for the video output had come loose and by the sounds of it, it's touched something it shouldn't have and caused a short.
He provided this picture which shows a component, possibly a voltage regulator, which has clearly been blown as there's a big hole in it :o
(http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/2591/f5lk6.jpg)
I don't think my Fami has the same model board as this and was wondering if anyone knows either the part number or a suitable replacement so he can replace the blown part? Thanks in advance.
It's a voltage regulator, # 7805. :)
I just bought an AV Famicom and it appears to work fine, except that the screen image it produces is rather dark. I compared it to my NES (connected via composite of course) and to my surprise, the NES produces a much better image: its brighter and sharper.
What's odd is that I believe my previous AV Famicom had a perfect image (it got lost in the mail). Could the change in brightness be due to a PPU revision? Mine is RP2C02H-0. Are there any resistors in the video circuit that I could check?
On a related note, my Twin Famicom's video has the "jailbar lines" issue that plagues NES 2s. I found a pot in there that increased the brightness, but didn't fix the lines. Wish my AV Famicom had that pot...
The AV out connector or the cable could have rusted pins, which create electrical resistance, raise the impedance and darken the picture.
Oh and BTW, an AV Famicom will always look darker on a US TV set, due to the differences in NTSC-J vs NTSC-M.
Quote from: 133MHz on October 01, 2008, 09:31:11 pm
The AV out connector or the cable could have rusted pins, which create electrical resistance, raise the impedance and darken the picture.
Oh and BTW, an AV Famicom will always look darker on a US TV set, due to the differences in NTSC-J vs NTSC-M.
Yeah, at first I thought that it was simply that obscure NTSC-J difference, but the difference in brightness and video quality is like comparing RF to S-Video, so there's something else going on. Increasing the brightness or contrast on the TV doesn't make any improvements.
I hacked a spare RCA cable in two, looked up the Famicom's AV pinout, and stuck it on the composite/ground pins and the image still looks the same. Is it possible that there's some sort of cap or resistor in the head of the cable that could have gone bad?
Quote from: Thrillo on October 02, 2008, 10:46:52 am
Is it possible that there's some sort of cap or resistor in the head of the cable that could have gone bad?
Yes indeed. You'd have to check the transistor, caps and resistors which amplify the composite video signal from the Famicom's PPU chip. Unfortunately I don't have the AV Famicom schematic, nor do I own one to trace it myself. You'd have to follow all the way from the Video Out pin on the PPU to the AV out on the back, checking for components drifted in value.
Those "jailbar" lines... are those normal for a famicom? Both the A/V mod and normal RF output on my original famicom have these, but not my NES...
Hmm, I guess I'll have to trace the path. I'm glad that the AV Famicom has a pretty simple PCB compared to the other models.
Quote from: Syzygy01 on October 02, 2008, 01:58:11 pm
Those "jailbar" lines... are those normal for a famicom? Both the A/V mod and normal RF output on my original famicom have these, but not my NES...
I have three old style Famicoms and all of them have that issue to some extent. I even had a NES that was barely starting to show them, but then I fried the board and that was the end of that.
Sounds like an electrolytic capacitor drying up.
Looks like the TV I was originally using has issues. I tried the AV Famicom and NES on another, older TV and the AV Fami ended up looking better on it: there was less ghosting between dark and light areas, such as the floor in SMB3's title screen, and the colors were more vivid.
Apparently my TV is very picky about composite resistance values. Doesn't surprise me because it also has video noise in the S-video input...
Replace the decoupling capacitors right after the video inputs on your TV. Maybe they're dried up and they're allowing some DC offset to pass through.
If you're more experienced, check for good filtering on the B+ line.
I've got a multicart that looks like this:
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/broken1.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g2/jerahcordova/Famicom%20Oddities/broken2.jpg)
Any solutions? It's not quite as bad as my last posting, as I can make out the menu screen, etc. but it's quite broken. Tried cleaning the contacts and lining up the contacts various ways...didn't work.
One or many of the very fine traces which connect the chips (or gloptops) to the cart edge could be severed. Check them and repair if necessary.
The cart could have a shorted address or data line (blown input protection circuitry). Check for continuity between all address and data pins. If you find a low resistance (say, 100 ohms or less), it may be possible to resuscitate the cart by trying to blow up the short with a power supply.
Not a good sign but I turned my Twin Famicom on this morning and nothings happening :-\ No red light flickering and cant get anything out to the TV. Any suggestions folks?
Try another AC adapter first.
Id have to buy/import another adaptor to test that out. Was hoping there was something else I could do.
You could plug in your adapter and check the voltage/amperage it's outputting with a multimeter. If that checks out okay, it may be a fuse in the twin famicom.
Quote from: ericj on November 06, 2008, 12:06:19 pm
You could plug in your adapter and check the voltage/amperage it's outputting with a multimeter. If that checks out okay, it may be a fuse in the twin famicom.
Is it easy to replace a fuse in the console? What sort would I need? Never even attempted to open one up before so its all new to me ???
Quote from: ericj on November 06, 2008, 12:06:19 pm
You could plug in your adapter and check the voltage/amperage it's outputting with a multimeter.
Even easier, you can check that your AC adapter is working with your
tongue. No joke. Just plug it in and put your tongue to the plug that goes into the Twin, trying to bridge the inner part with the outer part of the connector. If you can feel teh tingles, then it's working OK.
Note: This may not work if the connector's tip is isolated, and therefore, tongue-inaccessible.
I once licked the end of a powerful ac adapter; not a pleasant experience! lol :D
Quote from: 133MHz on November 06, 2008, 01:08:52 pm
Quote from: ericj on November 06, 2008, 12:06:19 pm
You could plug in your adapter and check the voltage/amperage it's outputting with a multimeter.
Even easier, you can check that your AC adapter is working with your tongue. No joke. Just plug it in and put your tongue to the plug that goes into the Twin, trying to bridge the inner part with the outer part of the connector. If you can feel teh tingles, then it's working OK.
Note: This may not work if the connector's tip is isolated, and therefore, tongue-inaccessible.
Yep I get the tingles!
Then we move on, the problem is in the Twin itself.
It could be a fuse, or the 7805 power regulator.
Quote from: 133MHz on November 06, 2008, 02:59:05 pm
Then we move on, the problem is in the Twin itself.
It could be a fuse, or the 7805 power regulator.
So crack it open. What should I look for?
Can you take & post pics of the internals? Specially around the power and video connectors.
Yep will do, thanks ;D Will have to be tomorrow as its pretty late.
Quote from: 133MHz on November 06, 2008, 03:17:51 pm
Can you take & post pics of the internals? Specially around the power and video connectors.
Pics ;D:
http://img390.imageshack.us/my.php?image=346yd2.jpg (http://img390.imageshack.us/my.php?image=346yd2.jpg)
http://img136.imageshack.us/my.php?image=347rm0.jpg (http://img136.imageshack.us/my.php?image=347rm0.jpg)
http://img390.imageshack.us/my.php?image=348wm6.jpg (http://img390.imageshack.us/my.php?image=348wm6.jpg)
http://img136.imageshack.us/my.php?image=349an5.jpg (http://img136.imageshack.us/my.php?image=349an5.jpg)
So is it possible to do anything or is it time for the dustbin? :(
(http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/2350/346yd2eg0.th.jpg) (http://img114.imageshack.us/my.php?image=346yd2eg0.jpg)(http://img114.imageshack.us/images/thpix.gif) (http://g.imageshack.us/thpix.php)
I've circled the 7805 voltage regulator. It's the 3 pin device that's screwed to the big metal plate. With the Twin plugged in and powered on, check with a multimeter set on a low DC scale between pins 1&2 and 2&3. Here's some ASCII art I've just made to clear things up:
___
| o |
|¯¯¯¯¯| 1 = Input (you should get anything from 7 to 20V from here)
| 7805 | 2 = Ground (place the multimeter's black lead here)
|_____| 3 = Output (you should get 5V here with a very small deviation)
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
¯ ¯ ¯
1 2 3
Tell us what you get.
Quote from: 133MHz on November 08, 2008, 05:37:52 pm
Tell us what you get.
Will do. Need to go buy a multimeter though ;D
First time Ive ever done anything like this so go easy on me! Putting the red pin between 1&2 and the black pin between 2&3 came back with 0 on the multimeter. However putting red to the left of 1 and black to the right of 3 came up with 20 on the meter. Couldnt get anything past 0 in the middle.
You're doing it wrong. Let some more ASCII art explain things for you:
First, set your multimeter to a low DC scale (something like DC20V. DC could also be abbreviated by a line with three dots underneath). Second, your red lead should be plugged into VΩmA or something similar, and the black lead into COM. Plug your Twin, turn it on and try these:
Test 1:
___
| o |
|¯¯¯¯¯|
| 7805 |
|_____|
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
T T ¯
| ¯¯¯¯¯¯ Black lead here
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ Red lead here
1 2 3
Test 2:
___
| o |
|¯¯¯¯¯|
| 7805 |
|_____|
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
¯ T T
| ¯¯¯¯¯¯ Red lead here
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ Black lead here
1 2 3
The multimeter has a huge dial with the following:
V ~
600, 200
A--- (This has a straight line with 3 black dashes underneath next to the letter)
200 u, 2000u, 20m, 200m, 10A
hFE
Omega Symbol
200, 2000, 20k, 200k, 2000k
V --- (This has a straight line with 3 black dashes underneath next to the letter)
200m, 2000m, 20, 200, 600
Each number is a setting on a dial and the bold letters are divided up into sections around it. Not sure which to set it too and the instructions for this thing are pretty poor :( But it did recommend using the lowest setting if you werent sure. Any ideas which number I should be going for?
Quote from: Lorfarius on November 09, 2008, 10:00:26 am
V --- (This has a straight line with 3 black dashes underneath next to the letter)
200m, 2000m, 20, 200, 600
The LED shows 10.60, sometimes flicking to 10.61
Good. That means that power is reaching the voltage regulator. Now test 2 ;)
Quote from: 133MHz on November 09, 2008, 08:13:11 pm
Good. That means that power is reaching the voltage regulator. Now test 2 ;)
Yay some good news! :D Will let you know the results of 2 later ;D
Results for these test, copied exactly results in bold:
Test 1:
___
| o |
|¯¯¯¯¯|
| 7805 |
|_____|
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
T T ¯
| ¯¯¯¯¯¯ Black lead here
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ Red lead here
1 2 3
-0.58
Test 2:
___
| o |
|¯¯¯¯¯|
| 7805 |
|_____|
| | | | | |
| | | | | |
¯ T T
| ¯¯¯¯¯¯ Red lead here
¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯ Black lead here
1 2 3
-11.17
I should've asked first: Did the Twin suddenly stop working or it never worked at all as far as you're concerned?
Because if you're getting negative voltages, you either have the test leads reversed on your multimeter or you're using the wrong AC adapter (reverse polarity).
Also, the tests should be done with the front side of the regulator facing you (the side with the numbers printed on it).
Quote from: 133MHz on November 10, 2008, 10:34:43 am
I should've asked first: Did the Twin suddenly stop working or it never worked at all as far as you're concerned?
Because if you're getting negative voltages, you either have the test leads reversed on your multimeter or you're using the wrong AC adapter (reverse polarity).
Also, the tests should be done with the front side of the regulator facing you (the side with the numbers printed on it).
It suddenly stopped working. I'm currently using a Universal Unregulated AC/DC power adaptor which lets you select the voltage but there doesnt seem to be anyway to change the polarity on it just a switch for the voltage. I did have a Japanese convertor to use with the original TF plug but when the console stopped working a few days ago I sent it back to the eBay seller in the hope it was down to that failing. He's going to test it when it arrives.
Edit. Scratch that. Managed to find a way to change the polarity on it! More results:
Test 1 = 1.78
Test 2 - 2.48
Edit AGAIN ;D:
It works!! The Japanese adaptor must have died. Ive just changed the polarity on the Universal adaptor and its started loading a disk in the drive. Hooray! Famicom games ahead!
I feel like a right idiot >:( Thanks for all of your help 133MHz as I wouldn't have got any of this without you
Glad to be helpful ;D
BTW, you were pretty lucky for not killing your Twin Famicom with reverse polarity. It is known that Twin Famicoms do not have reverse polarity protection (that's why you got negative voltages at the regulator terminals). Somebody here tried an AC adapter with the wrong polarity on his Twin, and the main filter capacitor went *BOOM*
Quote from: 133MHz on November 10, 2008, 12:06:43 pm
Glad to be helpful ;D
BTW, you were pretty lucky for not killing your Twin Famicom with reverse polarity. It is known that Twin Famicoms do not have reverse polarity protection (that's why you got negative voltages at the regulator terminals). Somebody here tried an AC adapter with the wrong polarity on his Twin, and the main filter capacitor went *BOOM*
Tell me about it ;D Its time I had some luck with this thing. Off to play Challenger :P
I just got a not working Famicom from Japan.
It was fine when it was in Japan, but now there is no any response on TV screen when I turn on the power.
The TV screen even doesn't have a "wave" when I turn on/off the power switch.
I have another Famicom, so I am sure the AC adaptor and the signal cord are fine.
My guess is either the power on/off switch or the AC adaptor connector is dead....
Any suggestion for me to do the quick check??
Thank you all.
???
It may have a fuse on the RF board. If it does, it could've blown. This is what it looks like:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3243/2776370880_76ca50169a.jpg)
^
It's the black thing
Quote from: 133MHz on November 10, 2008, 07:45:51 pm
It may have a fuse on the RF board. If it does, it could've blown. This is what it looks like:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3243/2776370880_76ca50169a.jpg)
^
It's the black thing
Just as a point of interest. How difficult is it to replace such a fuse? I take it you need to solder it back on?
I didn't replace mine I just soldered a piece of wire jumping from one side of the fuse to the other. It looks like a typical electrical component. That means that all you should have to do is get an exact replacement, remove the solder on the existing component and remove it. Then just place the new component back in and re-solder it (direction should not matter because it is a fuse.
Dear 133MHz
Thank you for your quick answering.
I just had our engineer checked on my Famicom (...don't tell my boss....: ) ), and the layout of the RF board in my machine is different than what you are showing me.
There is no such a fuse on my RF board, and the engineer couldn't find anything on the RF board looks like a fuse.
Our engineer also confirm that the on/off switch is fine, and the 5V voltage does go to the mother board, so there must be something wrong after the power supply system....
Anymore suggestion??
Old Game Lover
Could you post some pics of the Power Supply / RF board?
You could have a cold solder joint, blown capacitor, voltage regulator, or something else.
After I test the Famicom in the office with engineer staff today, the conclusion is, the power supply and those chips on the main board are probably fine. We can find the 5V voltage all around those chips. So the problem is maybe in either the soket or on the RF module.
Here are some pictures of this Famicom:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3193/3023825126_b4ae666ecf.jpg?v=0)
The back side of the RF/Power board, and no such a RF fuse found on it
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3281/3023826194_2970ef52f3.jpg?v=0)
The main board of this Famicom, everything on it looks fine and clean
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3026/3023827066_fb2757bc65.jpg?v=0)
The front view of the RF/Power board, fine and clean as well
According to the suggestions I find from here, I just tested this console again.
There are two testing setups I've tried:
1. Famicom (RF output) ->TV directly using VHF input by original Nintendo RF switch set, and;
2. Famicom (RF output) -> Sony VCR machine using VHF input->TV by AV output/input.
By using another Famicom which is in good working condition, I can have game running perfectly on my TV (Sony KLV S32-A10 Flat Screen LCD) on channel 13, (works fine in both 2 setups).
But the "problem Famicom", I find it can barely show the very "fuzzy" game image on channel 95 & 96, depending on which selection I pick on the CH1/CH2 switch. And the game music is not very good but accetpable ....
Below is the game image I have on channel 95 / 96:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3058/3023000347_fd7da883f5.jpg?v=0)
???
Any suggestions?
That looks like a cartridge slot or logic problem. Try cleaning the cartridge slot thoroughly, and check out its solder points on the bottom.
Thank you for your quick reply again!!
Now my question is, why this "fuzzy" image not showing up on channel 13?
I have a question. Hopefully it hasnt been posted, I did a search and didnt find too much. I live in the USA so I know our power requirements are slightly different from Japan. Since Japan is a little different will plugging my Famicom and Famicom Disk System into my power supply fry anything? I would guess it wouldnt, or it would take a really long time to do anything. Has anyone in the United States had a problem with the voltage frying anything, and if so what did it do to your Famicom or Disk System? Im just a little paranoid and dont know if I need to by a Voltage Converter. Any help would be appreciated.
Quote from: Ken Tama on November 12, 2008, 02:33:08 pm
I live in the USA so I know our power requirements are slightly different from Japan. Since Japan is a little different will plugging my Famicom and Famicom Disk System into my power supply fry anything?
As long as you use the Famciom's AC Adapter (or compatible -- ask before you try it!), you'll be fine. Step-down converters certainly won't do any harm, but you should be ok without one.
Quote from: Ken Tama on November 12, 2008, 02:33:08 pm
I have a question. Hopefully it hasnt been posted, I did a search and didnt find too much. I live in the USA so I know our power requirements are slightly different from Japan. Since Japan is a little different will plugging my Famicom and Famicom Disk System into my power supply fry anything? I would guess it wouldnt, or it would take a really long time to do anything. Has anyone in the United States had a problem with the voltage frying anything, and if so what did it do to your Famicom or Disk System? Im just a little paranoid and dont know if I need to by a Voltage Converter. Any help would be appreciated.
I have a US power convertor (I live in the UK) and it works just fine with the Japanese famicom.
With my Famicom I use the official Japanese adapter. With the Disk system (which I havent received from ebay) I bought one of these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/110V-220V-AC-FOR-FAMICOM-DISK-MEGA-DRIVE-PC-ENGINE_W0QQitemZ230302658409QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVideo_Games_Accessories?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
Do you think i should try it with that adapter, or just stick with the batteries? Ohh that also brings up another question. How many hours do the batteries usually last in a disk system?
You should be fine with that.
Hi all!
Sorry to make my first post a tech question but I think I've fried my Famicom :'(
Basically I traded some games for a Famicom which came with everything but an AC adaptor.
I opened up the box and pulled everything out and the RF switches all looked strange and complex. Having a few retro consoles I thought I'd try one of the others cables (as they all usually interchange nicely)...so firstly, I hooked it up with a Master System RF cable and a Genesis ac adaptor...what I got with this was a black screen every so often when tuning the TV in which would change to white when I switched the machine off...success?
Now, what I should have done was taken out the master system RF and put in the N64 or Gamecube one but I stupidly put in a NES AC adaptor thinking it might be a power issue....
Now I don't get a black screen anywhere...at all....
Fried? What can I do?
QuoteNever use an NES AC adaptor with your Famicom.
Quote taken from
http://www.famicomworld.com/Workshop/Famicom_AC_Adaptor.htm (http://www.famicomworld.com/Workshop/Famicom_AC_Adaptor.htm)
I don't mean to be rude, but this question has already been asked -and answered!- (probably several times) on this forum, as well as over the internet. Using the search function really proves to be useful from time to time.
Apart from that, welcome to the boards.
I hope you stay longer?
I don't want to be rude but that hasn't helpped whatsoever. If you read my post you'll see I realised I shouldn't have used an NES adaptor...what I was asking about was whether the famicom was a lost cause or not, if it could be fixed and what to do next?
Your answer was like going to the doctor with a broken leg from a skateboarding accident and the doctor saying "You shouldn't skateboard and have accidents"
If you have some basic understanding on how to use a multimeter you can test the voltage regulator and the fuse (if it has one). You might be lucky like I was and have just a blown fuse. If you go back a few pages on this post you will see my posts about the fuse.
Yep multimeter is the way forward :)
Ok, cool, thanks guys! ;D I have a volt meter for my arcade cab so I'll use it when I get home...
Quote from: levon2807 on November 15, 2008, 11:24:13 am
Ok, cool, thanks guys! ;D I have a volt meter for my arcade cab so I'll use it when I get home...
Just be careful you test the right pins. I didnt! :'(
I recently got my AV Famicom and plugged it into my Samsung HDTV yellow/white AV ports but the picture just doesnt seem right.
Colors look a little off, words/fonts are not clear/sharp, I changed my video settings on my TV to no avail.
Are these just not meant to play on HDTVs?
I figured I had the AV ports so its should be no issues.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
Quote from: Romeo on November 15, 2008, 01:09:05 pm
I recently got my AV Famicom and plugged it into my Samsung HDTV yellow/white AV ports but the picture just doesnt seem right.
Colors look a little off, words/fonts are not clear/sharp, I changed my video settings on my TV to no avail.
Are these just not meant to play on HDTVs?
I figured I had the AV ports so its should be no issues.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
Nope none of the older consoles work very well with HDTV's. Best thing to do is buy a large CRT to play them on. I have a Samsung HDTV and it plays with a broken yellow line towards the left of the screen.
Maybe the scaler on your HDTV is doing some iffy things to the video signal (the Famicom outputs a progressive video signal, your HDTV may think it's interlaced and it's trying to do some weird field composition to it). Try your AV Famicom on a standard CRT TV to discard a problem with the system itself.
Quote from: 133MHz on November 15, 2008, 01:56:45 pm
Maybe the scaler on your HDTV is doing some iffy things to the video signal (the Famicom outputs a progressive video signal, your HDTV may think it's interlaced and it's trying to do some weird field composition to it). Try your AV Famicom on a standard CRT TV to discard a problem with the system itself.
Its a general problem with HDTV's as far as I'm aware, never seen one that can run them perfectly.
Another problem with my Twin Famicom :( When I insert a disc it clunks twice and then I get a Battery Err 02 message. Which means the batteries are dead. Except its a TC so there isnt any batteries :o Any ideas? It must be getting power to the drive as it wouldn't clunk to try and access it. Does the same no matter what game I use.
My AV Famicom was working fine when I got it, but it seems quite fussy about booting games. I've found that I often need to push the cartridge at an angle a bit. After a game boots if I stop pushing it often has graphical glitches or more often than not will just freeze up. Is this a problem with the cart connector?
I had to put the console upside down to hold the cartridge in place so it doesn't crash to be able to play splatterhouse :(
Try cleaning the contacts on the cart connector and look for bent contacts and fix any you find. And if that doesn't work, check for cold/broken solder joints on the cart connector to the board. If you find any, re-flow the solder or re-solder them.
Well I really have no idea when it comes to soldering, but what's the best way to clean the cart connector?
Quote from: Arctic Feather on November 18, 2008, 02:04:54 am
Well I really have no idea when it comes to soldering, but what's the best way to clean the cart connector?
Ethanol or Isoprypyl. Dab some on a cotton bud and away you go.
An old toothbrush is better than a cotton bud for cleaning the cart connector. Dip the toothbrush in alcohol and scrub the connector vigorously. Wait for the toothbrush to dry and scrub again, this will make the contacts shiny & clean. Repeat as necessary.
Also if you've got an air compressor, blow some high pressure air inside the cart connector, there may be stuff trapped inside. Otherwise try to bang it against a hard surface a few times to dislodge whatever might be trapped inside.
Quote from: Lorfarius on November 16, 2008, 07:41:50 am
Another problem with my Twin Famicom :( When I insert a disc it clunks twice and then I get a Battery Err 02 message. Which means the batteries are dead. Except its a TC so there isnt any batteries :o Any ideas? It must be getting power to the drive as it wouldn't clunk to try and access it. Does the same no matter what game I use.
Anyone? :( I might be able to get my hands on another Twin Famicom but I dont really want to throw this one away if I can.
Take it apart and check that the disk system is getting the correct voltage. Could be something as simple as a bad voltage regulator, cap, or cold solder joint.
Quote from: ericj on November 19, 2008, 11:56:29 am
Take it apart and check that the disk system is getting the correct voltage. Could be something as simple as a bad voltage regulator, cap, or cold solder joint.
Are those easy to get and replace?
They are pretty easy to get, especially in the US, but I'm not sure where you're from. Anyways, they shouldn't be a problem to find anywhere.
You'll have to check out the Twin to see what's wrong first, though. :P
You might not need to replace anything.
Well I've just bought another power convertor as the other was totally bust. Once thats arrived assuming the console still wont power up I'll start asking for more help ;D
Power convertor arrived yesterday. Plugged it in and the Twin Famicom worked perfectly, disc and cartridge so I was pretty happy. However go to power it up today and...nothing. No power to the cart or FDS. Scratching my head I plugged the Universal adaptor I had back in and the cart slot started working just fine again but the Disk part was having none of it showing the Battery Err 02 message again. Not sure what to do now as I have no idea if the console has blown itself or the power convertor has gone.
I'm starting to think it might be the power regulator thats either damaging plugs or failing to work when it should. These dont come up all that often on Ebay and Id rather just buy another one if I dont get this working properly soon :( Have a massive collection of Disk games to play and its driving me nuts that it seems to work one minute then dead the next >:(
Edit. More to add to this :'( With the power convertor plugged in once more I flicked the FDS part back on and the red load light flicked on, power off then back on with a disc in....nothing. Dead again. So it seems to be receiving power at random.
It might be a loose connection or a cold solder joint as ericj said.
The カセット／ディスク switch could be faulty too.
Is there anything I can do? If its too complicated Ill just scrap it and buy another one but I'm itching to play some disc games. But I have a solder so dont mind giving it a go.
You can open it up, wiggle the cables/tighten the connectors which go from the motherboard to the disk unit (they could be loose).
Also you can try reflowing the solder on said connectors and also on the カセット／ディスク switch
Quote from: 133MHz on November 23, 2008, 12:47:09 pm
Also you can try reflowing the solder on said connectors and also on the カセット／ディスク switch
Well I've just taken it apart and wriggled all the cables, leads etc inside. With the top half off and the cable linking the switch to the motherboard unplugged both the FDS part and cart system work perfectly. As soon as I put that bit back in I start getting the Battery Err 02 message again. So it looks like its the switch bit. Is that repairable as I dont fancy having to leave the console open permanantly.
Looking at where the cable reaches the lid theres some sort of blue tape covering it. Cant see anywhere to solder.
Edit. What does this cable actually do? With it unplugged and out of the way I can use both the FDS and cart without it. Yet as soon as I plug it in the battery Err returns.
Hello. I just got a used Famicom Disk System. I changed the belt. I have 5 games Zelda, Metroid, Doki Doki, SMB2, Mario 3d rally. After I changed the belt SMB2 and Metroid played fine, but the other games gave me common error messages. I tinkered with the motor speed. Now Metroid gives me error messages and SMB2 I can still get to work. But none of the other games ever worked (and some of them give me different error messages depending on what I have the motor speed set to.
I was thinking about messing with the head adjustment screw and calibrate the spindle, but I didnt find any clear guides on this site. How do you guys troubleshoot your FDS? Also is there anything else I need to calibrate or clean after I changed the belt. Are there generic settings for the Famicom Disk System or do you just have to tinker with it until it works? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Every now and then after playing for like 15 minutes or more, the T.V. starts to get garbled randomly. The picture gets fuzzy and sometimes is accompanied by noise. Sometimes it goes away, and other times it doesn't and I have to turn off my famicom for a while. Is this normal, or am I just freaking out?
I am using an original famicom, NES RF adapter, original Famicom AC adapter in a step down transformer.
I am also using one of those old tv's with the rounded screen, not flatscreen, though it will do it on both.
hmm, could be a filtering capacitor that is wearing out or cold solder joint that is acting up when the unit gets warm. Probably not a big deal unless you want to explore it in more depth.
I just got it a few days ago. Do you think it's worth it to exchange it?
Might as well try to exchange it.
Have you tried using the Famicom without the step-down converter? I have an original Famicom, original AC adapter and am using the NES rf adapter like you. I live in the US and I just plug it right into my wall. The Famicom runs fine. The problem you have might be noise being produced from the step-down converter or the converter going bad.
Quote from: Ken Tama on November 23, 2008, 01:52:48 pm
Hello. I just got a used Famicom Disk System. I changed the belt. I have 5 games Zelda, Metroid, Doki Doki, SMB2, Mario 3d rally. After I changed the belt SMB2 and Metroid played fine, but the other games gave me common error messages. I tinkered with the motor speed. Now Metroid gives me error messages and SMB2 I can still get to work. But none of the other games ever worked (and some of them give me different error messages depending on what I have the motor speed set to.
I was thinking about messing with the head adjustment screw and calibrate the spindle, but I didnt find any clear guides on this site. How do you guys troubleshoot your FDS? Also is there anything else I need to calibrate or clean after I changed the belt. Are there generic settings for the Famicom Disk System or do you just have to tinker with it until it works? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Maybe these links will help you
http://www.digitpress.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73164
http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=392.0
Or maybe the games are simply dead.
Bleeh... alright I got a copy of Rockman 6 today but when I went to play it all I got was a white screen. So I took it down to the workshop (kitchen) and cleaned the pins up (they were diiiirty!) with a ton of q-tips and alcohol. Then I went to try it again and I still get a white screen. It's done this both in my Famicom and in my Toploader.
I seem to recall you could glean some hints as to what the problem is by the color that is displayed on the screen. Though maybe I made that up. Anyway can someone offer me some advice on to how to get this cart working? Or is it just a lost cause?
White screen means that the flux capacitor is bad.
Either that or it isn't getting the 1.21 Gigawatts of electricity needed for the PRG and CHR ROMs to work properly. Check for lightning bolts around the 7805 voltage regulator.
Also the system may not be reaching the necessary 88 mph of acceleration.
LMAO too funny can't stop laughing.... hahahahhaha!
I did what you guys said and ended up having to relive the last three days. And my game still doesn't work!
*grumble grumble*
Do you have the same problem with other carts, or just that one?
Oh it's just that one.
Try opening up the cart and just inserting the board. You should be able to get a little wiggle room that way--try moving it from side to side and see if you can get it to work. It sounds like the pins on the board aren't aligning correctly.
Didn't seem to do anything. One thing of note is that sometimes when I put the game in and press the reset button the color on screen changes and will do so every time I press reset.
Did you try flipping the board around? I had a pirate cart that was in the cartridge backwards and didn't work until I flipped it around. If that doesn't work, the board is probably damaged. :-\
I guess it's damaged then. :-[
Have you tried it with various adapters--like a Game Genie, 60 pin to 60 pin converter, etc? Maybe it'll work that way. I'm out of suggestions. Maybe someone else on here has a different idea you can try. Good luck!
I tried it in my NES. Unfortunately I don't have either of those other things... though a Game Genie is on my list. Looks like this copy of Rockman 6 will be my display copy.
If you bought it off ebay or know the seller, see if you can get another copy or your money back. That sucks, man!
Rockman's awesome! I'm just discovering the games; I have a 6-in-1 multi-cart with them all on it. I never played Mega Man or Rockman before I got this cart, so I find the games incredibly tough and somewhat frustrating.
Yeah... I was super excited about it too because it was the last one I needed for the complete set. But hey, it's all part of the fun of collecting!
I see you've got an original cart with proper ROM and mapper chips. There's hope, unlike those gloptop things.
Possible causes:
1) Bad traces from cart edge connector to ROM chips - the easiest to test and fix. Use a multimeter to check continuity and repair any trace that doesn't conduct.
2) Bad ROM chips, possibly electrostatic discharge or a faulty console killed them. You could get somebody with an EPROM burner to program some new ROMs for you and salvage your cart.
3) Bad mapper chip. Hardest, since it's probably surface mounted to the board you'd need a hot air gun (or LOTS of patience and skill with a soldering iron) to remove it, and you'd need the same mapper chip from another cart.
Thank you, sir!
I'll do what I can. Why are the right solutions always so complicated!? :P
Argh!
I can't believe this, I should know this. :-[ But I guess I'm rusty.
I tried hooking up my old Fami for the first time in forever, because I've been so awfully busy for a long time. I have the hook-ups. The A/V cables were plugged in, the AC Adaptor was also plugged in, but when I try to turn my Fami on, I get no results on the screen. It doesn't even sound like it's turned on! :( I thought it was my VCR/DVD combo, which is newer, since I've heard that newer VCR's have been known to not work with the older Fami, but I'm not sure. It could be anything, seemingly. :( Anyone have any ideas on what's wrong?
When I've been playing my famicom for a while, and touch the area in the back where the RF modulator is, it feels warm. Not hot or anything, just kinda warm. Is this normal?
Yes. It's the 7805 voltage regulator dissipating heat through a big aluminum heatsink.
Here's a weird one that could be useful to somebody in the future:
One of the FDS RAM adapters I received was quirky - it displayed graphical corruption on almost every moving sprite with tile flipping on my NES (e.g. goombas). The other RAM adapter worked fine, but I tried the 'broken' RAM adapter with a cheapo Famiclone and it worked perfectly!. It was like that particular RAM adapter disliked my NES console for some unknown reason. Connection problems were ruled out after cleaning the pins and checking that the errors didn't change when wiggling the RAM adapter around. Also the errors weren't random, they were always the same. RAM adapter self-test showed PRAM CRAM OK.
Using the almighty finger technique on my NES with the 'broken' RAM adapter plugged in (lick your finger and start touching random pins on the motherboard checking for altered behavior - every electronics nut worth it's salt swears by this) I managed to get a glitch-free picture! Eventually narrowed it down to five data lines: PRG D3, D4, D5, D6 and D7; which correspond to CPU pins 21, 22, 23, 24 and 25. I soldered a 6,2kΩ resistor between each of the suspect CPU pins and ground and et voilá! No more glitches! :D ;D
So, if you're getting graphics errors with your FDS RAM adapter, try pulling your CPU data lines low :P ;).
*stumbles out of a burning house*
Look at what you've made me do!!
Very cool though, I love reading about the process you went through.
i have a standard HVC-001 famicom. I'm using the packaged RF cable with one of those little boxes that has the 2 prongs on that cable coming out. I have that hooked up to an antenna adapter that has 2 slots for the prongs, and plugs into the tv via a regular rf plug. When I have my TV set up downstairs, It works fine. When I took it upstairs last night(it's a small TV), and set it on my desk, I hooked it up, and I had a real hard time getting it to display anything. It was on the right channel(96), but the image was all fuzzy and scrolling down the screen. today, I took all that downstairs, and it worked perfectly. Any ideas?
Hello all.
After months of dissapointment, I finally aquired a Disk System. Not posessing a Famicom, I used a converter from an NTSC Gyromite cartridge to connect it to a disemboweled Toaster NES.
I have three problems, and I think they may all be connected somehow.
1) While all the FDS screens occur, they have distortion, like when a dirty cart is put in (Though I know that isn't the problem, I rubbed the thing with Q-tips for a good 20 minutes)
2) The only disk I have loads until the copyright screen, and then the screen goes black (The disk is Tarot Uranai, if that's important)
3) When I run the RAM diagnostic check, it says PRAM CRAM 6000H, and I don't think that's good.
I hope all you FDS experts can help me out here, I'll appreciate it.
Thank You!
Try your RAM adapter in a Famiclone first, even the cheapest Polystation will do.
So you think the problem may be the 60-72 adapter, or even the NES itself?
Another quick question, does the Generation NEX have Disk System support? I'm almost sure it does, but I'm unable to find a definitive yes or no.
Yes. If you read back a few posts, you'll see that I had graphical corruption problems when using my FDS RAM adapter with my NES, and it turned out that the NES was the culprit. A quick test with a Famiclone would rule out that possibility.
Alright, thank you very much!
The FDS was given to me by a very close friend, and to my surprise, it was actually the right thing.(We've dubbed her "Fami-clueless" in the past) I didn't have the heart to tell her that it didn't work, so the greater chance there is of this thing working, the better off I'll be.
Unfortunately, my last working Famiclone tragically perished in a freak AC Adapter accident, so I guess it's off to the nearest retro-gaming store for me.
THank you so much, 133MHz!
Hi,
I'm new to this forum and I have a question:
I just got a Famicom + Disk System for my birthday, and I want to hook up my Famicom to my tv.
I live in Holland, Europe, so I have a European TV. Since it is less than 2 years old I presume it also supports NTSC however I am not sure. I have a 110/220v stepdown converter (it came with my Virtual Boy and I know for a fact it works)
I would like to know how I can hook up my Famicom to my tv.
The Famicom has an RF switch from which 2 fork terminals leave to go in to the (Japanese) TV.
Not the same, but something like this:
(http://www.vintagecomputing.com/wp-content/tvswitch_2_large.jpg)
In Europe/ Holland we have a different way to hook up a console (like my NES or SNES) to a TV (it is also the same connection as the regular cable TV). It looks like this:
(http://www.kleinspul.nl/products_pictures/antenne_kabel_m-f_1.jpg)
Does any of you know how I can hook up my Famicom to my Dutch TV? I have been struggling with this and I do not know how to get it to work.
If I could get it to work, I can use my super-cool Famicom Robot with Block set (which just came in) and my Disk System with Super Mario Bros. on disk.
You can either replace the coax plug on your Famicom's RF switch with the one that your country uses, or simply use a NES/SNES RF switchbox, assuming you have one with the compatible connector.
random edit: This thread's page number had reached my shoe size (European) xD.
Thanks much!
Once I get back from vacation I will get cracking with this. Can I just use the TV feature of "search for channel" and it will automatically find the Famicom channel, or do I have to switch the TV to a NTSC setting first (or is that being done automatically?)
Is there any way to check whether my Famicom powers up, when not connected to a TV? The NES has a red led light to check, but the Famicom doesn't... so is there any way that you can see?
by the way, we have similar shoe sizes. ;D
The closest way to see if the famicom powers on, without opening it up and using a voltmeter, is to plug the unit into the wall and flip the power switch. Since it does not have any lights if you put your hand on top of the unit after a few minutes and it is warm at least you know the power is going through it. All though this doesn't tell you if the complete circuity is completely working.
You could also try one of the carts that has the built-in LED and see if it lights up when you turn it on.
I don't remember which pins provide the voltage and ground, but I know the info is here on the site somewhere under techincal assistance.
Will using an NES RF switch with my famicom output the signal to channels 3 and 4, or will it act the same as the Famicom one?
It will act the same as the Famicom one. Try channels 95-99.
For the record, my old, beat-up workbench TV set doesn't support cable, only VHF and UHF, but it could still tune to the Famicom's signal when I used the auto search function ;D.
Hi guys,
I just hooked up my Famicom and my Disk System yesterday, but I'm experiencing some problems with it.
I put a European antenna connector on the cable that comes out of the Famicom RF Switch. I can find the signal of the Famicom on 97.00 Mhz (on Ch2 Famicom setting). However this signal is not optimal, and there is litte to no sound. There is a lot of distortion and you can hear the Mario jingle very lightly if you listen really close.
So how can I improve the signal that my TV receives from the Famicom, and how can I make sure that I get some sound on my TV?
And about my Disk System, when I load the Super Mario Bros. disk into the Disk System (the only one I have), it appears that it doesn't load correctly. Only half of Mario, the goomba's, mushrooms and coins are rendered properly. The other half looks kinda maimed.
How can I fix this?
Do you have another TV you can try it out on?
Yes, I've tried it on a regular TV as wel as an LCD Tv, both had the same results.
Do you happen to have another antenna or rf cable to try on the TV?
Quote from: Esgher on January 05, 2009, 04:34:12 am
And about my Disk System, when I load the Super Mario Bros. disk into the Disk System (the only one I have), it appears that it doesn't load correctly. Only half of Mario, the goomba's, mushrooms and coins are rendered properly. The other half looks kinda maimed.
¿Are the cart's (and console's) contacts clean?. buggy graphics are usually caused by bad contact on some CHR pins.
About the sound.... dunno, ¿maybe interference of some kind?. I think 133Mhz (the user, not the frequency ;D) was having some interference with his famicom from radio station signals that are just around that frequency spectrum, but I don't think it was nearly as bad as in your case.
Only just realised this was about the Disk system ::) Could just be a duff disc, might be worth buying another disk game to see.
I doesn't seem to be a disk problem. It looks like there is a problem with the famicom and/or the fds ram adapter.
¿game carts work fine on your famicom?
Japanese CH2 is 97.25 MHz , try tuning there and see if you get sound.
If not, then you'll need to adjust the sound coil on the RF modulator board.
As for the Disk System problem, first of all, clean the contacts! Then try the RAM adapter self test (hold Select + Start as you turn on your Famicom with the RAM cart plugged in), and last, try the RAM adapter on a Famiclone if you're still experiencing the same problem.
Quote from: chimyfolkbutter on January 14, 2007, 03:36:38 pm
Before you do anything, I would suggest that you align the spindle correctly to the head, JFgoods has outlined the belt change and adjustment at http://jfgoods.net/disksystem.html. The steps are not numbered in his article. However, the procedure starts at this slide:
"Here comes the most important part.
First, slide the head so you will get a view like shown on the left."
Once you have that spindle adjusted then start adjusting the motor speed.
If you have a famicom copier, you can use a utlitiy like CopyMaster to find the speed of your drive. If you don't have the famicom copier/copymaster setup, you have to manually adjust the speed (in small increments).
As I mentioned before, the motor has a +/- sign etched into the motor. You can use a slotted screw drive to make the adjustment. Use the screw driver to turn motor adjustment screw clockwise or counter clockwise. The direction corresponds to the speed. You have to do trial and error in terms of adjusting the motor speed.
What this means is that you have to adjust the speed, then load a game. Keep trying this till the game loads correctly. If the game loads then try another game. Once you are satisfied this works for all games, then you have the proper speed.
Usually in Hong Kong, technicians adjust the speed to 5 for optimum speed. But the important thing here is for the game to load.
Only adjust the head as a last resort.
-CFB
Does someone have the jfgoods directions, or put the guide together from memory? I clicked on the link and looked all over the internet for the directions, but can find nothing.
Quote from: JC on October 05, 2008, 12:54:46 pm
http://jfgoods.sakura.ne.jp/disksystem.html
His new site.
Quote from: 133MHz on January 05, 2009, 11:11:57 am
Japanese CH2 is 97.25 MHz , try tuning there and see if you get sound.
If not, then you'll need to adjust the sound coil on the RF modulator board.
As for the Disk System problem, first of all, clean the contacts! Then try the RAM adapter self test (hold Select + Start as you turn on your Famicom with the RAM cart plugged in), and last, try the RAM adapter on a Famiclone if you're still experiencing the same problem.
Would using my NES cable instead of the Famicom cable help?
Whoooo Hoooo. I finally got my disk system to load all of my game 100% of the time. Now off to beat Super Mario 2!!!
As for the NES adapter. I would say its worth a shot. The NES is what I have hooked up to my Famicom and it works no problemo.
Hi,
I'm not sure if you mean the power adapter or the cable with the RF switch? I was refering to the singal cable. (mine is from al PAL NES and I'm wondering if using that cable to hook up my Famicom would improve the signal and overcome the sound troubles)
The NTSC NES RF works great on the NTSC FC, but I don't think the PAL NES RF would necessarily improve the NTSC FC connection to a PAL TV.
The NTSC and PAL RF switch are exactly the same (maybe except for the antenna plug which varies in some European countries), so basically what JC says is correct. I'd suggest a direct connection to the TV with a thick coax cable and a RCA to coax adapter.
Thanks.
I'll first give my PAL NES cable a try (I know for a fact that it works, my NES works great). This way I can see if the RF switch is the defect in this case.
I'll check back and post my findings!
A few questions:
What kind of tubing is he using in this tutorial http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LJbWPVS0Suk Is it Polyolefin heat shrink tubing or something? I went to the hardware store the other day and they didnt have anyting like it. Has anyone else made their own belts? If so, what did you use? What is the diameter of the belt?
Can I use my regular Famicom disk power supply and AV cables for a Sharp Twin Famicom?
AFAIK the Twin Famicom uses a positive tip power adapter. Please somebody confirm this.
I just got my famicom. When i try to connect it to a tv with a snes rf cable, only the sound works and only on ch 1. Any suggestions?
Try channel 95.
Thanks! it works
How difficult is it to do the AV Famicom mod? I'm an electronics noob that's never touched a soldering iron in his life. I want to do it, but not if I'm not skilled enough.
I plugged in my Famicom today, and the colors are a little brighter than what I expected and a little off. For example, the Super Mario Bros. and Super Mario Bros. 2 ground are a bit orange-ish, and backgrounds are a little fuzzy. Is this bad or is it supposed to be like this?
Is your Famicom AV modded?
No
Could be a fine tuning issue. Check if your TV has some sort of fine tune adjustment and mess with it.
Thanks, it worked! Why didn't I think of that before?
As some of you have probably noticed I've had several problems with my Twin Famicom these past few months and I've come to one conclusion...its alive. Day before yesterday it refused to load any disks no matter what they were. I was getting Battery and disk read errors all over the show. Yet 5 minutes prior to switching it on I'd spent a good few hours on the NES which is sat right next to it.
Forward another day and I switch it on to try again......it works. Every disk loads, no problems whatsoever. Then this morning I decide to have a go on Earthbound (just bought a pirate NES version) on the NES, finished and went back to the TF. Its happening again!
Just got back from work, turned the TF on and it worked perfectly. I honestly think its jealous of the NES. I'm going ot have to seperate the two >:(
What weird behavior is that? :D
Maybe the TF is intimidated? ;D
Or maybe the TF is sabotaging itself to stay as far away as possible from the NES, so it doesn't have to explain it's horrible past...
According to Famicom Dojo that is :P
I just got in my new Famicom disk system, which is a 7201. It has a new belt on it. Out of the box it gave me an error 22. I tried to adjust the motor speed but that didnt work. Then I tried to calibrate the spindle (I think that is what it is called. The piece of metal that sits on the post.) Am I missing something with http://jfgoods.sakura.ne.jp/disksystem.html webpage. I followed the directions to a T. The only part that is not really clear to me is when he adjusts the head. I get confused at the end where he says "Put the screws back in." Why does he rotate the gears? Also, In the part that says " Rotate the head with your fingers and pararell it as shown left. Tighten the screw back with the L-end wrench. Make sure you don't overtight the screw. Just tight enough so it doesn't move around." Is he talking about rotating the head where the screw is 180 degrees turned from the original marking dot physically on the post?
I got my other one to work like a charm, but this one is giving me some problems.
I know this is kinda a novel, but any help would be appreciated.
Edit: I just saw that the head screw has the wax taken off. Is there a proper way to adjust this screw, or do you just tighten and loosen it and cross your fingers?
Last Edit!!!!: I got it to work finally. The head screw needed to be adjusted. Just as a side note error 22 tighten the screw. 27 loosen or adjust the motor speed.
Quote from: nintendodork on January 22, 2009, 10:15:19 am
Or maybe the TF is sabotaging itself to stay as far away as possible from the NES, so it doesn't have to explain it's horrible past...
According to Famicom Dojo that is :P
I've just gone and bought a Super Famicom. I'll have to sneak it into the house without the TF seeing it :'(
Well, my Famicom's RF switch is done for. I always unplug the system when I'm done playing because I am scared of black-outs and power outages messing up my Famicom. Anyway, my RF switch, my ONLY ONE is busted. My dad helped me open it up, and the little copper wire that keeps the thing in working order is ka-putt. I looked on eBay for RF switches, but the only ones I find seem to come with their own Famicoms, never on their own. So, I made this topic for two reasons:
1) Is there any way to fix my RF switch?
2) Are there any alternatives, perferably one that dosen't involve going to
Japan for a new one? Like, maybe an RF switch I could find here in the U.S.?
Try Radio Shack, a game store, or a Goodwill or similar thrift store. They are pretty cheap. A NES RF will work perfectly, too.
You could do a search on Amazon.com too, also, NES RFs are compatible with Famicoms. So you can switch between the consoles with one RF if you want. But I've seen them on Amazon for as low as 24 cents ;) Good luck :)
Why not fix it? You already opened it up and found the problem.
He asked how to fix it, shed some light on us Mr. Hertz!
Wait, I can really use an NES RF switch? :o I thought that fried the system! Or am I getting that confused with something else? Anyway, yes I opened up the RF switch, but I lack the soldering gun needed to mend everything back.
You're thinking of the AC adaptor. The rf switch is fine to use. ;)
Unless, of course, you initially meant your AC adaptor fried instead of rf switch. I never heard of an rf switch breaking, but it is possible, I suppose...
That means I could keep the Famicom AND TV plugged up at once... YAY! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! Hopefully I can get my original RF switch fixed soon, but for now... I'm gonna be plugging up my Famicom with my NES RF switch. 'Scuse me. ;D
I really wouldn't bother fixing the Famicom RF switch if you have an NES one. The NES ones are better anyway. In addition to having a standard coax passthrough, the NES one seems to suffer less interference.
Gentlemen, I've got some news:
The Genesis 2 AC adapter tip won't fit a Famicom, and that's good because its polarity is reversed (positive tip).
But, it will fit a FDS drive. Luckily the FDS drive contains reverse polarity protection. If you plug a Genesis 2 adapter into a FDS, it won't work, and it will cause no damage.
Will a disc system work with a Yobo Neo Fami? The RAM adapter boots up fine, but I'm getting errors. Would a real Famicom clear it up or does it matter as long as the RAM adapter loads?
If the RAM adapter loads, but you still get errors, don't lose hope..
What errors are you getting?
21 and 22.
Error 21 = Disk card header block (Nintendo-HVC) wrong.
Error 22 = Disk card header block #$01 unrecognized.
So I guess it is the clone.. anyone correct me if I'm wrong
can a av mod cause rf interference? i thought my rf was shot but i tried again tonight and i had a ok picture but the more i moved my av cables around the better the picture got almost as good as when i have the av pluged in. so should i do away with my av mod its not done the right way any how i dont hear the extra sound chanles on two of my disk games and it is just a cheap set of av wires not a nice setup like nintendork has. i also like the extra sound the rf puts out so what do you think kill the great picture(av) or do with out the extra sound(rf) what are your thoughts
Well, I'd rather have the A/V quality over the extra sound IMO, it's not like HD sound or anything ;) The A/V is also much less hassle because you don't get ranging picture quality; you get one solid, crisp picture, and you don't have to hassle with finding the right channel..
And the only reason for your RF signal issue would be just putting cables into the Famicom. Since the Famicom is A/V modded...in a sense...the A/V mod is always "on" whenever the Famicom is on. So plugging cables into something that has a current flowing through it could affect picture quality, but that's the only thing I can think of..
Also, jim, if you'd like to see more pics of my A/V mod (the outside, I'm not opening that shit up :D) just PM me :)
fixed my av sound problem so im done worring about doing away with my av mod .thanks for your input .
Ok, anytime I play my famicom on my tv, I get a good picture. But for reasons unknown, the tv just goes static for like half a second and I don't know why and then it goes back to normal.
Any ideas of what's going on and how to correct it?
Does it do that while playing?
When you begin playing? When you stop? Is it just with the Famicom attached? Does it happen with normal TV program or other consoles, too?
I've never encountered something like that, but such info might help people to diagnose better.
It happens while I am playing and sometimes during the menu screen of a mario game or something. It doesn't happen often but when it does, it can get me killed. I am not sure if it happens on anything else, the tv is only used for the famicom. It does not recieve cable, just static.
Does that help?
So the TV gets static, but the game runs on, which results in a loss of a life sometimes. Is that right?
This would make me think there's something wrong with the TV, but when it's only with a Mario game, then there might be a problem with the game itself maybe?
Yes, the game continues during the static. I just used a mario game as an example, this happens to all of the games that I own, so I am sure it is a tv issue.
Now that the problem is known, how do I fix it?
mod edit: Please do not quote the post directly above you. Use the reply button ((http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/Themes/famicomworld/images/english/post_reply.gif)) instead.
Without seeing the TV... get a new TV.
Or repair the existing TV. There must be something wrong with the electronics. Maybe wait until our tech-guru (133MHz) comes around, he may know something.
I have a similar problem, but mines because channel 95 is also a radio broadcast channel here. So the radio interrupts my signal, I had to use my vcr to correct the problem.
I have the same problem. you can fix it by messing with the channel selection switch on the back. I just brush it back and forth without actually changing it. Usually that will help. i don't know why though...
I'd say that the TV has trouble with locking onto the FC signal.
As The Uninvited Gremlin mentioned before, JP Channel 1 / 2 (US Channel 95 / 96) fall right in the middle of the FM radio band.
JP1/US95 is 91.25 MHz
JP2/US96 is 97.25 MHz
Check for radio stations at those frequencies and also at 91.5 / 97.5 MHz
Probably there's a particularly strong radio station in your area which messes up the signal when they broadcast loud content or something.
Something could be failing inside your FC's RF modulator. Try another TV if possible.
Haha, I knew you'd have the answer.
You need to change your custom title to "FW Tech Guru" or something like that. :D
93.5 messes with channel 95 here, really really badly.
I hear radio over the sounds of the game and see static movement matching the songs beat;
I was only able to bypass this issue using a vcr set to channel 95 and the vcr input into the A/V on the tv.
Using thick coaxial cable (like the CATV company does) and a shielded RCA to F adapter instead of the original FC/NES RF switch helps a lot too.
133MHz -- What about adding a ferrite bead to the coax cable? Would that help?
Ferrite chokes are usually placed to suppress interference coming from the inside of the system (that's why they get placed at the ends of cables - so they don't act like long antennas), I don't know if they'd have a significant impact on signals coming from the outside.
Thanks for the advice guys, the static only happens once in a while and the tv has been working in great shape before I got my famicom. So I am pretty convinced that it's the radio stations up here.
I recently replaced the elastic band ( :) ) in my FDS with a brand new, proper drive belt. However, while the disks worked with the elastic band, they no longer load with this new drive belt.
I'm getting Errors 21 and 22.
I'm running the FDS off batteries, which around about 2 months old.
Before I screw around with calibrating the motor, should I try using new batteries? I know that the motor takes a lot of juice. Would it make a difference?
Thanks guys. . . . Also, I'm sure I could find the answer somewhere in the last 46 pages of this thread. But perhaps this will hone your repair-assistance skills.
You'll most certainly have to fiddle with the motor speed. The proper belt exerts a different tension on the motor and flywheel than the rubber band, varying the effective spindle speed.
Howdy Fellaws!
I've a few quick questions. The other day while arguing with a friend about the FDS gears and header mechanisms, we both came to the conclusion that the header screw doesn't need to be touched when replacing and installing a new belt (I read somewhere that the screw has to be adjusted) , but instead, the gears have to be properly aligned....Has anyone come across with a MITSUMI Elec. FDS service manual yet?.....And/or where does your FDS or Sharp twin header usually ends after reading side A..?..
I really wonder where did a brand new FDS header exactly ended after reading side A, directly from the factory....
Does any have a FDS system with an authentic stock belt?...In other words, with a virgin drive(untouched)
NOTE: I'm not saying in any way or form that messing with the header screw doesn't work, because this does indeed works, just that it isn't completely the right thing to do, or what Nintedo repair technicians would have done...
Quote from: ooXxXoo on March 05, 2009, 08:49:30 pm
The other day while arguing with a friend about the FDS gears and header mechanisms, we both came to the conclusion that the header screw doesn't need to be touched when replacing and installing a new belt (I read somewhere that the screw has to be adjusted) , but instead, the gears have to be properly aligned
You are indeed right. For belt replacing you don't have to touch the head adjustment screw (in fact
never mess with it unless you want a dead FDS!), you only need to align the spindle thing.
Too bad there's not an easy and reliable method for head adjustment, like a diagnostic software that you can use to calibrate the head position (almost every old computer with 5.25 inch floppy drives had some sort of calibration software). I remember reading somewhere about a guy that managed to calibrate his FDS drive head with a digital microcaliper, but that's somewhat out of reach for most of us (but not as far as using an oscilloscope to watch the waveform directly from the drive head and adjusting until you get the greatest amplitude).
Quote from: ooXxXoo on March 05, 2009, 08:49:30 pm
Does any have a FDS system with an authentic stock belt?...In other words, with a virgin drive(untouched)
I don't think that's possible. Rubber decays over time even if unused. Unless you kept it in a cryogenic vacuum underground surrounded by thick lead walls, the belt is going to be broken.
Yeah, I know the belt goes for sure, even if it isn't being used, its nature...But I swear I read somewhere, some one actually buying a brand new FDS, intact.....1 in a 1000,000,000,000 chance?...
Hey 133Mhz, since your are one of very few experts regarding the Famicom/FDS systems that I've seen, if is not too much to ask and whenever you have the spare time, could you possibly post a pic of any of your FDS games after it has been loaded, to see where does the header of your FDS ends?....
There is an interesting official 80's Nintendo FDS TV commercial in youtube, I'm sure many of you have seen it.. At one point a regular Famicom cartridge transform into a FDS game, the header point seems to be pointing at one of the upper corners (based and assuming that it is side A)...I truly believe that the one sided single games should end there, such as my copy of FDS Mario Bros does....After messing a bit with the gears, most double sided games ended almost at the upper middle, while the larger single sided games end at this particular corner....
The loading time seems also to be much faster than it was before....
Sorry but I think that I don't quite get what's exactly what you're referring as header. Is it the physical head on the drive? or is it the data header on the disk? (the "NINTENDO-HVC" block).
Quote from: 133MHz on March 05, 2009, 10:00:19 pm
Sorry but I think that I don't quite get what's exactly what you're referring as header. Is it the physical head on the drive? or is it the data header on the disk? (the "NINTENDO-HVC" block).
Yes indeed, the data header on the disk...
UPDATE: The pic is not longer necessary, after taking a look at my FDS system paperwork and box photos, the disk data header does indeed ends at the very same corner as the one that the video shows, confirming my suspicions of where the disk header position should begin/end correctly.....It takes a timing adjusment mixture between the FDS gears and motor (for those that have actually messed with the motor in the past, if not, it should be just fine), to achieve this spot....
For those that have manually messed with the screw and header one way or another, there is simple way to adjusted back to the factory setting position, its a bit tricky but not impossible.
just picked up a av fami. do both the left and right chanels produce sound?is it the psudo stereo that some modded famicoms produce ?also has anyone tried a s-vid hook up from a n64 or game cube i use one on my s-famicomand it makes a huge diffrence. ???
oops wrong page sorry
No pseudo-stereo from your AV Famicom. Just plain mono sound through both channels.
Also the AV Fami doesn't output S-Video. If you try your S-Video lead with it you'll get a black screen.
And no, there's no easy way to mod a Famicom for S-Video, Component or RGB output. The only real way to do it is by buying an expensive and rare Famicom Titler console, steal its RGB-enabled PPU, install it on a Famicom and build a converter circuit from RGB to whatever you need. Not easy, not cheap :-\.
Quote from: 133MHz on March 10, 2009, 08:30:18 pm
No pseudo-stereo from your AV Famicom. Just plain mono sound through both channels.
Also the AV Fami doesn't output S-Video. If you try your S-Video lead with it you'll get a black screen.
And no, there's no easy way to mod a Famicom for S-Video, Component or RGB output. The only real way to do it is by buying an expensive and rare Famicom Titler console, steal its RGB-enabled PPU, install it on a Famicom and build a converter circuit from RGB to whatever you need. Not easy, not cheap :-\.
or take the ppu off of a playchoice 10. And yes no famicom has any form of stereo seperation.
Quote from: Drakon on March 15, 2009, 06:47:19 am
or take the ppu off of a playchoice 10
True, but you'll get screwed up colors:
(http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/nes_vs/suprmrio_vsOnNes0.jpg)
(http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/nes_vs/suprmrio_vsOnNes4.jpg)
:-\
Hello fellow Famicom Fans!
I acquired a Disk System a while ago, and have tried with no success to get it to run on my toaster NES using a converter from a Gyromite cart. I have encountered several problems with it:
1) The FDS displays, but with heavy graphical glitching.
2) When a disk is inserted, it displays the copyright info, then goes black. (If I'm lucky it'll occasionally display a few distorted sprites)
3) When I do the RAM diagnostic check, under PRAM CRAM it says "6000H".
I hope one of you FDS experts out there can tell me what my problem is!
Attached is a photo of the RAM Diagnostic and the innards of my RAM adapter.
Thank you,
Ryuzaki
Could be a bad connection between the RAM adapter and the NES. Try it on a real Famicom, a Famiclone, or another NES and/or converter if possible.
If still no luck, there's bad RAM chip in the adapter. Luckily it's relatively easy to replace.
All right, thank you!
I tried it on my other NES, and still no luck...
I just purchased a Generation NEX Famiclone on Ebay, it has a 60-pin slot as well as a 72-pin, Hoping to god that it'll work for me.
So, worst-case-scenario, I need a new RAM Adapter? (If so, anyone willing to sell/trade for one?)
If you can solder, you can replace the RAM chip yourself.
If not, then you need a new RAM Adapter.
BTW do you have any other Famicom games to test your Gyromite converter?
Sadly, I have no Famicom carts to test it with.
I'm currently taking an electronics class, so I do have some soldering skills, but I'm worried about completely botching the job. once I test it on the NEX, I'll know my problem, and I'll get back to you.
Thank you,
Ryuzaki
Quote from: BadWolf42 on March 15, 2009, 04:36:50 pm
I'm currently taking an electronics class <...> but I'm worried about completely botching the job.
You can ask your teacher to help you out ;).
Does the original famicom have a fuse? If so, where is it? ??? Srry if this has been asked/answered before, search didn't come up with any results. As you can guess, my famicom is not working at the moment.
Yes. There is a fuse in the RF modulator board, on the solder side, near the DC plug. It's the same kind of fuse that's used in the SNES/SFC.
Quote from: turbo D on March 16, 2009, 12:27:02 am
Does the original famicom have a fuse? If so, where is it? ??? Srry if this has been asked/answered before, search didn't come up with any results. As you can guess, my famicom is not working at the moment.
If you look at this post, http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=786.msg31310#msg31310 (http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=786.msg31310#msg31310) (I had the same problem) you will see a picture of the fuse and what I did to solve my problem. I now have a working famicom; all I did was use a short wire to jump over the fuse instead of replacing it. The solder connections may look like they are falling apart on my pictures but I used a sharp knife to make sure that none of the solder was touching other solder and shorting out.
Thank you very much 133MHz and wolf9545! I have replaced the fuse with a glass one and my famicom is performing flawlessly!
I have a question when it comes to Controller extension and what I can do about it, I recantly had to move my famicom and the short wires of the controllers make it very hard to play the games from a reasonable distance from the tv..What products will help me with this? what's the best on the market? are any really worth it?
You know, I've pondered this question too. I've been thinking about buying some longer wires from the electronic store to replace the short ones. I would just solder the longer wire to the controller and pcb either directly or with the existing connector. Not sure if this has been done before or if it would cause lag, but it is something that I have been seriously thinking about. If I do end up doing it, I'll take a few pics for you.
It's perfectly doable. You'd have to get wires longer than 5 meters to have any noticeable problem.
but is there anyway to extend without having to open the Famicom? I really am not to handy with the soldering and it's already been modded with A/V cables by another so I have no idea what else he might have done in there before hand, that's why I ask. thaks for any help.
Yes, you can plug controllers into the 15 pin expansion port. The only problem is getting a long enough DB-15 plug to reach into the Famicom's pins.
I'm sorry I don't understand..what controllers would I be plugging into the port exactly? Are you saying they made longer corded famicom controllers? Or something else? which is the best ? how much does it run and where do I go to get one?
Sorry for all the questions, Kinda new to all this still and having a hard time understanding the workings of my first foreign system thanks for being patient, friendly and answering my questions everybody, really cool forum.
There are standalone Famicom controllers which plug into the console's 15 pin expansion port, like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/FAMICOM-NES-JOYCARD-CONTROLLER-FC-HUDSON-JAPAN_W0QQitemZ250334056151QQcmdZViewItemQQptZVideo_Games_Accessories?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
There are several models by various brands, with or without turbo features, varying cable length, etc.
You can also wire a pair of NES controllers so that you can connect them to the Famicom's expansion port, if you have some soldering skills and if you can find the right plug.
ooXxXoo did a very interesting thing: He rewired a NES Four Score Multitap so that you can use it on your Famicom!
Excellent idea IMO, you get to use your NES controllers and Zapper light gun on your FC without modifying them!
Here's his video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFLwMCRQuGc
Hey, 133mhz, A few days ago you suggested I tried my RAM adapter on a Famiclone, and still no luck. The graphical glitching was gone, but it still didn't load past the copyright screen.
You said something about the RAM chip, and I was wondering if
A) You could tell me exactly which chip it is, and
B) You could tell me how to get a replacement.
Again, your help is much appreciated,
Ruyzaki
I have a question and want to know some info before opening my second controller. The d pad seems to be stuck when you try to move from one direction to the other so I was wondering if you guys think this is an easy fix meaning there is probably something out of place inside or it'll be more complicated like having to buy another 2nd controller for the Famicom.
It could be dirty. Open it up and clean it with some rubbing alcohol and an old toothbrush.
Thanks I'm going to need to borrow one from my bro because I don't have the screw driver at the moment.
oh, some guys on gamesx.com managed to use a playchoice 10 ppu and get good rgb from it. I've never tried it myself because honestly....NES graphics don't need rgb
FDS question, Sure yea guys get alot..
Recently got my first game for the system Super Mario Brothers 2.
Place it in and all I get is the loading screen and loud buzzing, any ideas of what's going on?
-Using the AC Adapter
-Famicom works fine with carts no buzzing
-Both Disk and Disk system have said to been tested
-A/V modded Famicom [Not sure if that matters]
-Disk System works fine without disk in. No Buzzing]
If the buzzing comes from the TV speakers, your AC adapter is faulty.
If the buzzing comes from the FDS drive itself, your drive belt is broken.
well then I need some business advice
I got the famicom disk system around the end of feb, with money restraints and all I JUST got my first game today.
I only turned in the disc system once to make sure it turned on at all, But now I have a never played on by me disk system with a broken belt..what should I ask of the seller? if anything?
Hey Ive got a famicom but I need a converter for the RF switch... I live in Europe btw. I just dont want the 'better' ones like the AV Famicom or the Twin Famicom! I just want the damn ORIGINAL!
What do you mean by converter?
I'm not sure what you mean by converter... but if you want just a whole new RF switch, you can use a NES one the same.
Well its black-white then... Or must I use an antenna?
You have no choice but to do an AV mod, and possibly use a NTSC to PAL converter box.
What if he runs the RF into an NTSC VCR and uses the VCR's A/V outputs to connect it to his TV? I thought most EU TVs supported NTSC as long as it was through A/V.
Correct, but where is he going to get a pure NTSC VCR? It needs a NTSC tuner, not just the ability to play NTSC video tapes.
But... where can you find a rf-av convertor? And how is it called precisely?
AV to RF: pretty easy.
RF to AV: Only VCRs do that.
Whats a VCR? XD
A videorecorder.
So...? What do I need to do? I dont want to change my famicom...
You plug in the VCR, plug your Famicom's RF switch into the VCR, turn it to whatever channel it is, and play
The problem is that you need a US or Japanese VCR. European VCRs won't work because they have PAL tuners.
Wow, I just looked on eBay, and I didn't realize VCRs are so much money! :o When you can find them at junk shops or garage sales here for a couple of bucks...Or you can get a DVD/VCR combo player for $50 new in the store
I bought a Famicom at a local thrift store for about $7 today without the AC adapter. It came with one cartridge, the standard 4-in-1 with Super Mario Bros, 1942 etc.
I did some research and found that my American SNES power adapter has the correct output voltage, amperage, and polarity (center negative), but since the plug type was different, I wired up a temporary adapter to use.
While fiddling around with the adapter and the Famicom I managed to reverse the polarity for just a few seconds, long enough to smell the classic smell of burning electronics.
I tested the AN7805 regulator with a voltmeter, as that seemed to be the damaged component, and I get good positive DC voltage from Input to Common but only half a volt from Output to Common whether I have the power switched on or not. I suppose that getting positive DC voltage into the Common wire was fatal to the voltage regulator. None of the capacitors have burst.
In the process of doing this test I also figured out why the TV never showed a signal even before I accidentally switched the wires - some brutal klutz had snipped a few capacitors and resistors and run a wire across two leads on the bottom and put a pot on another two. I suppose he might have been attempting to repair or mod it, but the AV mod doesn't mess with those circuits at all, and the CPU board itself is pristine as far as I can tell.
Below I have posted four detailed images of the circuit board - in the last image there is a place for a capacitor labeled "C30" but no capacitor is present. Not sure if it's supposed to have one there as I don't have another for reference.
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g54/dreddnott/vintage/famicom1.jpg)
Picture of the power board
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g54/dreddnott/vintage/famicom2.jpg)
Detail of the added wire and pot
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g54/dreddnott/vintage/famicom3.jpg)
Inside the cage you can see a snipped resistor and snipped capacitors
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g54/dreddnott/vintage/famicom4.jpg)
The phantom C30 capacitor
Thanks... maybe one of our two DVD players can handle it...
(reply to dreaddnott)
I really don't think you should do that :-X
Quote from: japanfreak on April 04, 2009, 11:56:21 pm
Thanks... maybe one of our two DVD players can handle it...
Oh, and you need a VCR/DVD player, or just a standard VCR player, since I don't think that DVD players have the same outputs/inputs as a VCR. Correct me if I'm wrong, anyone.
dreddnott:
It looks like somebody modded your Famicom so that it would broadcast in a US channel frequency. That 'pot' you see soldered underneath the board is a variable capacitor, probably used to fine-tune the output frequency.
After replacing the 7805, try your Famicom in a TV capable of automatic channel programming and see if it finds the Famicom's channel.
:D just won a super famicom will a reg famicom ac plug work with it ??? i've heard that a snes will work with it thanks.
Jim,
The SFC AC and the FC AC are identical. It will work just fine.
DO NOT use a SNES AC plug.
Hi i am trying to get my famicom to work on an australian tv anyway it has these wires that have been attached for what purpose i dont know anyway since i cant get it to work i was thinking of cutting them off can anyone advise what these wires may have been put there for thanks
Pic is extremely blurry :-\
sorry try this pic my famicom never came with one of those little boxes either would that be the reason i do get a black screen when i search for a signal any help would be appreciated thanks
Your Famicom's RF modulator board has been replaced (see the MAKKO TOYS LTD branding on the board? That's not the original one).
This is probably an AV mod, or a NTSC-M mod (to make the Famicom transmit on US Channels 2, 3 or 4).
Does anybody have more information about the MAKKO TOYS stuff?
thanks that would explain why it doesnt have the channel1-2 switch on the back i guess i better leave those wires in place still no closer to getting it to work looks like i will have to get a nes toploader for the fds
Yeah i got 2 games the one to the right (TinyToon Adventures) starts with a grey screen even though i blow on the connector pins and the other one (Hook) is fucked up all graphics becomes corrupted
(http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/1518/dscn0970.jpg)
I assume you've already tried rubbing alcohol on a Q-Tip. Look at the connectors and see if there's any green corrosion. Alcohol wouldn't remove that, but fine sandpaper or an abrasive cleaner will.
If the connectors are clean and undamaged, I don't know if there's anything you can do to repair a damaged chip.
Whoa...so I just got a new multicart. I popped it in to play, and after a few minutes of Samurai Showdown II, it started smoking. I pulled the cart out and it stayed smoking for about a minute after. Looked inside and nothing seems amiss. Any ideas?
Black. Magic.
:o
I think that was like a last breath or something, 'cause it's just got scrambled graphics now.
Electrolytic capacitors tend to release magic smoke. Also fine circuit board traces in an overcurrent condition. It's pretty rare for chips to fail spectacularly, those like to die in a silent way.
Based on your description (nothing looks charred - scrambled gfx) it seems that the PRG ROM shorted internally and bit the dust. If it's a glop-top cart, then give the board a nice funeral. Are you sure that nothing looks unusual?
It's got three globs and nothing looks strange; I've looked at a lot of these globtop boards over the years. I can't tell where the smoke would've come from -- maybe some residue or something? I'd expected to see slight damage/blackening/melting somewhere.
It's a JY Company board...should've been among the better quality pirates. Maybe mine's a fluke.
Yeah, if there are no external components and no signs of blackening around the traces, the only plausible explanation is gloptop death. Something inside the chip decided to short the voltage to ground causing a very large current to flow through the fragile silicon die, frying it. Localized heating of the protective epoxy and/or board would've produced the smoke.
If there's at least one electrolytic capacitor, that might explain the smoke, but it wouldn't explain the corrupt gfx.
Smell the board, you might be able to identify the offending component just by the stench.
:( I was having a gamng competition at my house that involved moving a bunch of systems around tonight. It was pretty frantic and I accidentally plugged my twin famicom into the US outlet on my stepdown converter....
It seems the system will not power up anymore. I got the light to flash for 1 second and then it shut off. I am going to try one more time tomorrow, but I am afraid I fried it.
Is there any way to fix this, or do I have to pay anoher $150 for a green fami twin? I really hope i do not.... :( :( x 3999
Sounds like your AC adapter is faulty, possibly a frayed cord. Do you have a multimeter?
No multimeter. I used the same stepdown converter to play games on my normal famicom and it worked fine. I am too dismayed to try again tonight, but if it is in fact fried somehow, is there a repair?
I read again and you say cord.... I don't know how to check if I have a faulty cord. I think the normal famicom uses a different cord than the twin.
Do you know of anywhere to get just the cord for the twin famicom if you think it may have been messed up when I plugged in wrong?
I don't think plugging your twin famicom into the US outlet side on a stepdown converter would fry it. I have one and don't use a stepdown converter on it and just plug it right into the wall outlet. The power light on the Twin just flashes for a second when you turn it on anyways; it doesn't stay lit. Try it out tomorrow and I bet you'll see it's fine. If not, check the cord with a multimeter like 133MHz says and if that checks out okay, open up the console and look for a fried voltage regulator, capacitor, or fuse. Regardless what it is, it will most likely be a cheap and easy repair.
I think he is talking about a famiclone fc twin not a sharp twin famicom
Quote from: TheClash603 on April 26, 2009, 12:26:55 am
Is there any way to fix this, or do I have to pay anoher $150 for a green fami twin? I really hope i do not....
Since he said $150, I assumed he meant Twin Famicom. Who would pay that much for a clone? ;)
Also nobody in their right mind would use a 120-100V stepdown converter for a cheapass clone :P.
sorry didnt know they came in green
Sorry for the delayed response, I have not had a chance to try my twin famicom until today. Something odd is happening, and it doesn't seem to make any sense electronically at all.
I plugged the system in and turned it on today, and it worked! So I turned it off and put in another game, and the power light did not come on. I tried to wiggle the cords and everything, and still nothing.
I didn't do anything for about 5 minutes, unplugged everything and put it back in,and it worked! Then I turned off the power and turned it right back on again, and no power.
I unplugged the system and tried one more time. After waiting 5 minutes I plugged it back in and it worked again. I turned it off and on again, and no power.
Technical people (which I am not in the least), could you please try to explain this to me? Why does my system need a break between powering up? This doesn't seem to make sense to me at all, but I tried 3 times and it defintely is what happened.
Try replacing the 7805, it could've gone haywire. It's an integrated circuit so its logic could be screwed up.
Yikes.... I probably will end up getting a new system, not too much of a repair man on my end. Maybe I'll have this one for sale once I get a new system for anyone who likes to fix things.
On that note, anyone know where to get a working green twin famicom at a reasonable price?
Hm... got another thinker for you guys. I'm trying to get my NES Advantage apart but I've run into a roadblock when it comes to removing the turbo button knobs. I've tried using thread to get underneath the knobs and then yanking them out but the thread keeps breaking. I've tried using pliers but it's tough to get them off without buggering up the knob so I put a piece of rubber between the plier and the knob but it just slides off.
I'm really not sure what to do. Can anyone offer an idea?
**EDIT**
Okay! I just broke my only pair of forceps on this stupid plastic knob. The writing is on the wall with this one, I know when I'm beat.
Quote from: PatMan33 on May 03, 2009, 08:57:12 pm
Hm... got another thinker for you guys. I'm trying to get my NES Advantage apart but I've run into a roadblock when it comes to removing the turbo button knobs. I've tried using thread to get underneath the knobs and then yanking them out but the thread keeps breaking. I've tried using pliers but it's tough to get them off without buggering up the knob so I put a piece of rubber between the plier and the knob but it just slides off.
I'm really not sure what to do. Can anyone offer an idea?
**EDIT**
Okay! I just broke my only pair of forceps on this stupid plastic knob. The writing is on the wall with this one, I know when I'm beat.
If I remember right, theyre bolted to the casing sort of. You have to remove the black plate on the bottom first to get inside, then a nut from each knob on the inside before they will come out. The black plate on the bottom will come off without removing the knobs. I had the same problem when I took mine apart.
Nah man, I was way inside already. The back plate (made of 1/8th in thick STEEL) was easy, though heavy. Sadly the nuts on the knobs can only be accessed after popping the knobs off from the front (so the back plate doesn't really matter) and that proved to be very difficult without scuffing up the knobs so I stopped.
Hello, I am a new member here and I need help with my Famicom. I don't know if it works or not but I definitely know it powers up. The real problem is that when I want to play, a black screen comes up with a grey line going from the bottom of the screen to the top of the screen.I will put pics of what it does and what my console looks like. P.S. I dont have the original AC adapter, so I am using a class 2 transformer, it reads model # DV-9440 P/N: 24-CUL14400-D08 INPUT: 120VAC 60Hz 8W
OUTPUT: 9VAC 4VA, and also I for the RF plug I just put the red cable in there
If anyone can help me out I would appreciate it. Thanks Cesar
Yikes! Don't use that AC adapter. You want an adapter that outputs 10V DC, not AC, at 850mA.
EDIT: Oh wait, nevermind. I just looked at the pics you posted. You have a famiclone, not a Famicom. That AC adapter may be okay for it.
What do you mean by 'just put the red cable in there'? Do you mean you put an RCA cable in the RF output??
Yeah thats what I meant the red wire from the rca cable.
The AC adapter is definitely bad for it. As ericj mentioned you need one that outputs 9V DC instead of AC, with a negative tip.
Also, how many RCA plugs are present in the back of your console?
Also, the red RCA is typically used for audio & not video. The yellow one is typically for the video connection. Btw, if you're connecting an RCA cable to the RF output on your famiclone, you won't ever get a picture... ;)
This is how I am trying to play it. Here is a picture, also on the bottom there is a sticker that reads PAL N (3) I don't know if this would be an issue. I will go and find an adapter like the one you said though. Thanks
I've actually seen some RF cables that look like that. My PowerJoy 3 has one like that. But you don't need R/F if you already have AV cables. Since it's PAL, you'll need to find a power supply accordingly.
No need to plug the red RCA cable there, just leave it hanging around.
Quote from: cesar_capur on May 20, 2009, 04:24:27 pm
there is a sticker that reads PAL N (3) I don't know if this would be an issue.
Depends on where you live.
I live in the USA.
Then you won't get a stable, color picture unless you have a Multisystem TV. Argentina uses PAL-N while the US uses NTSC.
Hi Guys!
I just replaced the drive belt of my FDS and I can get only error #22.
For what I've read, I must try to adjust motor speed or adjust the head. Yoe made reference to the jfgoods.net site, but it seems not to exist anymore.
Could yu post some pictures of where is the head screw and the speed screw?
Thanks for any help!
This thread is helpful. The link to the jf site should be toward the end.
http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=1321.0
I was wondering if anyone could direct me to a (or write their own) guide to replace the pads under the buttons in a Famicom controller...well, actually it's the Hori Turbo controller I'm getting. It needs a little work, and I don't want to mess it up. Any help is appreciated. One question I have, though is...
Will NES pads work in this specific controller?
I had to switch tv's and i cant get my famicom to work. I connect it to the snes rf box, plug that into a vcr and use the av cord to plug it into the tv. There is some reception, but not nearly enough to play/
I don't think you can use a SNES RF switch. Try a NES one.
I dont have a NES one, but it worked on my other tv so i dont think thats the problem
The SNES rf adapter is the same as the NES one, so that isn't the issue.
What channel are you tuning into on your VCR? Is it the same channel you were using on the other TV? If so, this sounds more like an issue between the VCR and your TV.
I was using channel 95 on my tv, which doesnt exist on my vcr.
Ooh, so you weren't using the VCR in your previous setup? I didn't know that.
What channel range does your VCR get?
2-69
I can now get audio on channel 6, still no video.
You might be out of luck :(
Some people have reported success using channels in the low teens, but it's usually a channel in the upper 90s that ends up working.
Changed to different setup. Works.
Speaking of Famicom RF, I have a request: I need high resolution pictures of the Famicom RF modulator board for a tutorial I'm planning to write, with the metal cover removed clearly showing the components inside. I can't do mine because the previous owner removed a bunch of stuff and I had to make severe modifications to it to get it working. Thanks in advance :).
I should be able to get you some nice hires shots. Give me a bit.
**EDIT**
Scratch that, I don't have the proper equipment available right now to get the shield off or to put it back on. Sorry man.
Quote from: PatMan33 on June 01, 2009, 03:22:56 pm
proper equipment to get the shield off
No flathead screwdriver or long fingernails? ???
It looks like it's soldered in. I haven't reassembled it yet (figured you'd know something I didn't ;)). You saying I can just pop it out?
Yes, you can just pop out the top and bottom covers.
Huh... nothing doing, that thing isn't budging. If I had another Famicom I'd try a little harder but I'm not gonna force anything.
Maybe your Famicom's board revision comes with a permanently soldered shield. Mine had snap-on metal covers. Thanks anyway :).
I took mine off before. It's a little tough to get started, but a flathead screwdriver under the lip should make it pretty easy to pop off.
I can take a high res picture tomorrow, but can't get to it today if you don't have it by then.
Can anyone diagnose my famicom disk system problem when i put a disk in the system the screen says now loading and the system makes a loud vibrating type noise and will keep loading for an infinate time until i take the disk out then i get a disk error on screen would it be the belt or something else thanks for the help if you know what my problem is
Yeah your drive belt is shot. There's a guy called lukemorse1 on YouTube and he's got some really good instructional videos on how to replace your FDS belt. I recommend you to check them out ;).
Thanks mate checked out the 3 video tutorial doesnt look too hard just have too find a peice of rubber for the belt that may take some finding.any sugestions.
i would check ebay for good ones first, and if that fails go to like a radioshack and try and see if you can get one there. i would definately buy one off ebay tho.
Famicomshop gets them in a lot, too.
lol i never heard of it link?
i havent been here in so long lol
....
Famicomshop
.com
the ebayer formerly known as andy arcade has a famicom disk drive belt up for $9.80 with free shipping. http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/retrogamecity_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZ
thats a cheap one if they are still goin for like 17 like they were about a year ago
Hello,
I recently bought a Famicom from ebay (model: HVC-001HKG, its the Hong Kong model). It did not come with any leads (RF or DC adapter), so I have tested it using a Sega Megadrive RF and adapter (DC 10V). I get no picture, so as far as I can tell the system does not power on.
I have taken a look inside and the 7805 voltage regulator has the front piece missing, like it as blown off. I have bought a new voltage regulator from my local electronics store, which is branded L7012CV CC04L V6 MAR 707. On thier computer system it came up as a budget 7805.
So I have a couple of questions before I proceed: Does anyone know where I might get a suitable adapter for the Famicom, as the chances of getting an official one are slim to none (I live in the UK, 240V mains supply). Is this voltage regulator the right type for the Famicom?
Many thanks, and sorry for the long post.
I can attatch a pic of the inside of the Famicom if needed.
The adapter should work fine.
The official Nintendo adapter (HVC-002) puts out DC10V at 850mA (negative tip).
Thank you for the reply :).
Does anyone know about the L7012CV CC04L V6 MAR 707 voltage regulator, if it is ok to use. I don't want to solder it in place only to cause damage to the system.
If they are of any use I do have some photograhps of the internals of the console on the internet now:
http://s593.photobucket.com/albums/tt12/Simon2985/
Thanks.
I've never heard of such a regulator, and googling for datasheets doesn't turn up anything useful.
Personally I'm a little afraid that it outputs 12V instead of 5 (the last two digits in the 78xx and 79xx series regulators indicate the output voltage).
You can test it without installing it on your Famicom by applying a DC voltage between 7 and 15V DC between pins 1 & 2 (1 is the input, 2 is ground and 3 is the output) and checking with a multimeter if you're getting 5V between pins 2 and 3.
I can only go by what is written on the face of the componant as I have very little electronic knowledge. I have a picture of the offending componant, I'm sorry but I couldn't get the writing any clearer.
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt12/Simon2985/headlights0244.jpg
That says L7812CV doesn't it? If so, it outputs 12V instead of 5V. Don't install it in your Famicom. Get a 7805.
I think you are right, I have just come accross this:
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Integrated-Circuits/Voltage-Regulators-linear/7805-7812-1A-Fixed-voltage-regulators/77611/kw/47-3313?source=googleps&utm_source=googleps
"A range of automatic, linear fixed voltage regulators that are designed to supply a constant regulated output voltage of either +5V DC or +12V DC."
It must have been an error on the stores computer system (a costly one at that if I had gone ahead and put the componant in the Famicom).
Just as a quick question, would the voltage regulator I have linked to in my previous post be ok?
Thanks.
Yes, only this one:
7805 REGULATOR TO-220 (TRU) RC 47-3313
Thanks very much for your help, I will get a replacement 7805 regulator and see what happens from there. Fingers crossed it works.
Sorry to be a pest with all my repeated questions, but I want to make sure everything is completly right before I go ahead. I have exchanged my voltage regulator for a 7805, but the code on it says:
L7805ACV
Does that mean it outputs AC instead of DC?
Thanks again.
Quote from: simon2985 on June 28, 2009, 08:08:01 am
Does that mean it outputs AC instead of DC?
No, those are internal manufacturing codes. You can also find NE7805, LM7805, KA7805, etc and they're the same. The only important thing is that it says 7805. Now you're good to go :).
Great :D, lets hope this gets it running.
I know this has been answered but the Mega Drive (Genesis) adapter is ok yea?
http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt12/Simon2985/DSC00738.jpg
Input: 240V AC @ 50Hz
Output: 10V DC 1.2A
+____C____-
A friend said that I may have fried the Famicom with it.
Yes, the Genesis Model 1 adapter is OK.
I could never get the Genny Model 1 adapter to fit properly.
IT LIVES!!!!! :D
Sorry about the caps, but i'm over joyed. I have no games as of yet for the system, but after soldering in the new piece I tried it on my Tv (using the Megadrive adapter) and I got a black screen. No tuning required.
I am gonna leave it now until I can get a game for it. But I just wanna say, you guys on this forum are awesome. This wouldn't have been possible without you guys. I cannot thank you enough. Next thing to do is try a game on it and see if it plays. :D
I have tried a game now. Golf. Plays perfect. Both controllers work, there is a small buzzing from the Tv but I think that is due to some interferance from somewhere (the Rf lead doesn't quite fit right), but it's not game destroying.
Next up, finding a Disk system. ;D
Hi, I'm a little new, but my famicom just came in the mail today (games aren't here yet though)
Anyways, I was looking it over, and I hooked it up to the TV without a game just to see what it did. It's certainly sending a signal, so that's good.
I noticed however that the reset button is like a rock, it won't budge in or out. I'm just wondering if this is normal and pressing down on it will still reset the game, or if it's jammed and needs to be fixed. If it is jammed, do any of you have tips to unjam and fix it?
Also, the games I got are Final Fantasy 1, 2, and 3. Those save their games, and I know the american NES games need you to hold reset while you turn the power off. Is it the same for the Famicom?
Thanks for your help.
Yes, it's jammed. The best solution would be taking apart your Famicom, removing the Reset button, cleaning it and putting it back together. If you don't want to do that, you can try spraying some contact cleaner around the button to loosen it up.
As for the "Reset before powering off" issue for battery-backed games, I know that the Famicom handles its System Reset differently than the NES (NES blanks the screen during reset, Famicom doesn't and garbage is displayed) but I don't know how that would apply to battery-backed games. Just to err on the side of caution I'd recommend following the same advice.
I opened it up, and I discovered what the problem is. The actual button on the circuit board is fine, but the red plastic button piece you actually push on is like glued into the frame. Any suggestions on prying it out?
Decades of dirt and dust made its way between the red button and the casing, literally gluing them together.
Try to spray some contact cleaner or rubbing alcohol in the space between the button and the case to loosen it up.
You may also try WD-40 but take care of cleaning the residue afterwards.
Once it frees up, remove it and clean the area with an old toothbrush dipped in rubbing alcohol or similar cleaner. Once everything is clean, let dry and reassemble. Applying a small amount of grease would be a good idea.
I've been trying that stuff but it's still not budging. Probably because the rubbing alcohol can't soak into where it's needed because the gap isn't big enough. It's like the button is stuck to 2 sides, so the other 2 sides have a little gap, but the stuck sides have no gap. I've tried everything short of taking a hammer to the stupid thing -_-
Have you taken everything apart? If possible, let the part in question soak in water for a night. Maybe this can loosen it enough.
I couldnt find any other question like this on here but its very probable that I overlooked it so please forgive me if I have :D
I have a NES toploader and will shortly have a 60->72 pin converter. Is it possible to use a FDS with this set up or not? If it's not possible what would I need to make it work?
Yes it will work, I asked this when I first came around here ;). The only problem is you won't get any of the additional sound channels.
ahh but it will keep me from buying another piece of hardware in addition the FDS so that is a huge plus to me :D Thanks!
All right so I finally got my famicom to work on a pal widescreen tv............................................
..........................................................
................. but it has no sound or color :'(
now there are two options from what I researched on forums (barely found any that covers working it in the uk)
1 ) av mod your old famicom (however not keen on this 1 as I dont wana ruin the authenticness of the 1 I got, also supposidly that doesnt help with the color either =/)
2) buy a AV famicom (which surprising is HARDER to find than the old 1983 1...wow O_o, not to mention the ones I saw on ebay where like £90+)
now the subject wasnt covered in depth and as this 1 seems to be the largest ( or most active I suppose) forum covering the famicom are these two options really the only ones I got?? any local ukers ( or from euorpe) able to give a final word on it? ( I know it was sorta spelt out on the other forum but... before I blow big cash or wreak my famicom I guess I would prefer to see if there were more options???)
Those are your only options. Have you played with other import consoles on your TV? Most modern European TVs can display NTSC signals in color but only through the AV inputs, not through the aerial connection (which is why your Famicom only displays in black and white) also the sound carrier frequency is different (which explains why you have no sound).
By AV-modding your Famicom you'll get full color and sound if your TV supports NTSC, and if not you can buy a NTSC to PAL converter box to get a color picture.
If you're not good with soldering and building small circuits I recommend that you get an AV Famicom. No fuss, just plug it in and play.
lol....actually the famicom is my first import console I've just recently bought say june/july, so you can see why I am still abit clueless... ( just starting collecting retro/import consoles and games so thought I would start with the famicom )
but yea I will try what ya said thanks for the help ^_^
First you need to find out if your TV supports 60Hz NTSC, either by reading the User Manual or by setting your DVD player to NTSC and seeing if it plays OK on your TV.
Ok, here is the situation for my FDS:
Got it boxed with manual and hand bills, but no ac adaptor came with it. So I did batteries the night I got it. Yesterday dad gave me a universal ac adaptor which allows me to controll the amount of DC I need to output to the system. C batteries are 1.5 volts, so times 6 equals 9. I set the DC output to 9.
It works... for the most part. For some reason I get even more static than usual on this game which includes fuzzy vcr tape type of lines. They go away when the game is paused but comes back when unpaused. And sometimes the static affects the overall brightness of the game.
What I would like to know is this: WTF is going on?! Is it all because I'm not using the official adaptor? Is it my tv? what is it?
If it is my tv, I'm not too worried because I'm planning on not taking it since it messes with the music on my SNES.
Yes, it's possible that the AC adapter is the culprit. If the adapter is being overloaded or its filtering is poor it will cause video interference and/or a buzz in the audio. I assume it loads games fine and that you don't get these symptoms when running on batteries. I suggest you to continue using batteries since they last for quite a long time.
Wow, wasn't expecting that to be the culprit. The interference starts at any time, it can even start during the bios screen before I even put the card in. I'm assuming the problem will go away when I use the official adaptor?
Will the batteries last me till christmas if I play it somewhat regularly, like 2 or 3 times a week?
batteries would last 5 to 6 months if played every day.
So yes they will last until christmas.
thanks guys
I'm sure the problem won't occur if I were to get the official ac adaptor for christmas?
I got a problem and would appreciate any help anybody could offer.
I bought a second Famicom today and I'm having trouble with it. Basically I hooked it up and put a cart in and I would get this distorted image (like you'd see the opening screen of the game but it would be moving wildly up and down with a kind of wavy effect too).
I took the whole thing apart and cleared out about 25 years worth of dust but that didn't do anything. I checked all the connections, etc but everything seems all right.
The really weird thing though was that after spending several hours doing all that and not getting it to work I just left it for a few hours, then came back to it and turned it on and it worked perfectly. I played a couple of games on it just to make sure it was OK and they all worked fine. But then I left it for a couple hours and came back and it was back to the messed up screen thing (even though I hadn't touched it since the last time when it was working).
Anyway, its got me baffled and if anyone has any ideas I would be really grateful!
One of my Famicoms does exactly the same, and I'd like to know what might be the problem, too.
Sounds like cold solder joints to me, maybe around the RF modulator area.
When you say you leave it for a few hours do you leave the famicom plugged in or unplugged? If you leave it plugged in then I would also say some cold solder joints. Small amount of power might just be enough to heat it up a little, not to re-flow the connections.
Hi everyone!, couple of weeks ago I bought CIB famicom, and I plugged AC adaptor in to a 240v... and it blown-up. Thing is that I plugged adapter in to a fami but I didnt turned it on. How I can check is it work? I dont want to open it because I'm not spec, as you can see. Anyway I smelled a ventill and its smell like old-metalic-plastic not smokey.
You guys have great website!!! and sorry for my english, its my second language
The AC adapter is garbage now. You could get the internals replaced but it's not worth it. As for the Fami, the only way to know that it's working without opening it is by trying it out with another AC adapter, a game and a compatible television set. You can do without the telly by using a game with a red LED on it such as Spelunker. If the LED lights up, it's working.
Thanks for reply!, yes I have new adaptor
AC ADAPTOR
HA-7
AC100V 50-60Hz 16VA
DC10V 850mA
made in japan HORI
so still I have to get EU step down voltage converter. Can some buddy tell me how fried famicom would smell and normal one famicom? couse I warry to much about it :/
sorry again for my english
I've seen a few times on here that the A/V Famicom will not work with S-Video.... In some instances that is true, however, on 2 occasions I have seen it work! A friend of mine found a generic S-Video cable used for GC/N64, and sure enough it works, and works beautifully! He lent me the same cable and on my A/V it works just as well.. so is it the cable itself? Anyone want to shed light on this?
I don't have an AV Famicom with me anymore so I can't test what I'm going to postulate, but it's possible that Nintendo bridged the composite video output along the S-Video pins on the AV Multi Out connector, basically sending composite through the S-Video lead, and your TV is smart enough to display it even if it's not a proper S-Video signal.
Anybody with such a cable, an AV Famicom and a multimeter can trace the path of the S-Video pins on the Famicom motherboard to see where they're going.
Quote from: 133MHz on July 30, 2009, 06:52:56 pm
I don't have an AV Famicom with me anymore so I can't test what I'm going to postulate, but it's possible that Nintendo bridged the composite video output along the S-Video pins on the AV Multi Out connector, basically sending composite through the S-Video lead, and your TV is smart enough to display it even if it's not a proper S-Video signal.
Anybody with such a cable, an AV Famicom and a multimeter can trace the path of the S-Video pins on the Famicom motherboard to see where they're going.
Dang... no multimeter here, however your theory makes sense to me. Interesting though! I never thought it'd work until I saw it with my own eyes.. and am seeing it with my own eyes as I'm playing St. Seiya right now :)
THanks 133 and wolf You are geniuses!
I tried it again cold (after leaving it unplugged for a while) and it was still messed up.
Then I tried starting it after leaving it plugged in for about an hour and it worked fine!
Any ideas about how to fix this problem so that it just works normally?
Reflow the solder joints in the RF modulator box.
Thanks for the help! I'll give it a try when I get a soldering iron!
hi guys :), does anyone knows where i can buy online a fuse (1.5A) inside the famicom? :(
Just solder a wire in place to bypass it. Otherwise, an electronics store (not sure what they have in the Philippines) or online retailer should have one.
yep. i already did was bypassing.. anyway. i'm still looking for it. just to preserve its original design. thanks
You can keep the blown fuse in place and solder a very fine wire across the board around it, that way you get to preserve its original look ;).
Also, the SNES uses the same kind of fuse, you could "borrow" one from an old SNES ::).
i've noticed that too in the SNES.. while i'm cleaning it up.
thanks
Hello everybody!
I've got a problem. I've got a twin fami an-500b and official disc. It was working very well till today.
I have inserted my disc into twin as usual, but the soun was strange and it showed me an error 27.
Is there any solutions for this trouble?
Appreciate your help.
According to this, http://www.famicomworld.com/Disk_System/Error_Messages.htm (http://www.famicomworld.com/Disk_System/Error_Messages.htm), error 27 means that the disk might be damaged. Do you have any other disks to check to make sure that the system works ok?
Hello guys,
You were so helpful last time that I was hoping you could help me again.
I have the Famicom disk system. The system came without the belt installed, but one was provided in the sale. I have replaced the belt using a youtube guide that was quite in depth. Upon turning the system on I get error 22. After playing about with the motor speed ( I have no idea if this is actually doing anything as there very little information I can find), I end up with error 21.
I have had a look back through this topic and there was mension on a guy jfgoods. All links to his site are dead unfortunatly. Any help or clarification about motor speed/spindle adjustment would be greatly apprieciated.
Thank you
P.s. I only have one disk at the moment, so I cannot try another.
it was basically trial and error for me i had to just keep adjusting it. i did it for about 2 hours.
I have found one position that I can turn the screw to and it gives error 21 instead of error 22. If I turn the screw clockwise slightly it gives error 22 again. But I can move the screw back anticlockwise to get error 21 again.
So am I getting close to the right position when the error changes?
man i wish kite was here :-\ he knows all about the FDS. I dont really know sometimes i got my game to work and then if i tried loading another it wouldnt work.
This is beyond me, I've spent the last couple of hours turning this screw from one extreme to another, making miniscule adjustments each time and all I get is error 21/error22. I think it is a dead system, either that or the disk is knackard and without another disk I wont know and I'm not gonna spend money on more disks for a broken machine. :'(
Did you align the spindle position using a small allen wrench?
Do you mean lining up the grub screw with the little indent in the spindle?
Ok, after some adjustments, quite alot of adjustments I got a error 27. Side B gives error 21 again with no adjustment, but then side A also will give error 21, but then switches back to error 27 with no adjustments. I have risen the part of the spindle that the disk sits on (not the shaft that sticks up, the little collar that grips onto the shaft via the grub screw) up slightly, as before I just let it rest on the floor of the drive. I hope you can understand that, as its hard to explain.
Having the same problem, my drive worked for about 5 years with a new belt I replaced, gave out recently- got a belt off Ebay, and now I get errors 21-22 and 27 depending on the speed of the motor, tried different disks, when I adjust it a certain way I can get it to do A/B side error if it's on an empty side of a disk, but it still won't work on the correct side.
The other thing that throws me off is sometimes depending on adjustments, the screen will go black after it reads the disk, stays black then goes back to the FDS screen with an error message.
Does anyone know of a site that has more in-depth info on how to adjust the spindle? I saw a couple Japanese sites but they're not too clear...info varies from site to site.
Just got my busted disk system from ebay... I hope I don't screw up the repair process.
i have a question my disk system stoped working i tried to figure it out with my cousin jollie who is also on famicom world and we think might be the ram adapter does any one have a clue what is wrong. all i know is that it wont register ive tried on two famicoms
i also looking any one that has a disk writer and can put metroid on my orginal metroid disk that doesnt work. i bought it from ebay and couldnt get my money back so i hav a broken disk hopening some one can help me out.
Hey Everyone!
I just got my Famicom(w/ the Disk System :D), I got it hooked up with the Nintendo RF to my Sharp Aquos TV with the orginal C Adaptor. The picture comes in great, however there is an annoying buzzing sound :(.
This is true for both the cart and disk that I have. Also I tried two different RF's and the RF works fine on the Orginal NES. Thank you for any help!
The buzzing typically comes from the 2nd controller microphone. Slide the volume adjustment to see if you can make it stop.
Yeah, mine buzzes, too. I turn the volume slider on the controller all the way down. I also keep the controller in the cradle on the FC and lean it a bit. The buzzing seems to quiet down depending on how the controller is positioned, so keep nudging it until the buzzing goes away (or mostly goes away).
Thanks! I did a little tinkering after posting this yesterday and figured it out. I also turn down the bass amplification on my tv, now its 100% buzz free.
So if the mic damaged? Is there a way to fix this?
The mic volume control is a sliding potentiometer which gets dirty/worn out over time. You can open the 2nd controller up and clean the potentiometer's sliding graphite tracks also and clean/straighten the slider's metal contacts.
I just attempted to replace the belt on my twin's FDS using the youtube tutorial, and my belt keeps slipping off of the large white wheel. I'm pretty sure I don't have one of the gears lined up right (for some reason the white gear that is held in with that pin was in there insanely tight, took an hour to finally pop the pin out). Anyway, Is there some way to tell if your spindle gears are at the correct latitude?
Thanks!
I'm sure I fried my famicom :P
I just got it in the mail and hooked her up and had no luck finding it on my TV (It goes all the way to channel 99, that's good enough, right?) then I turned it off and smelt it and it smelt like electronics, no smoke though.
Looks like I'll have to buy a new one :( (and a step down converter for extra insurance)
--
So anyway, what kind of step-up do you folks have? Do you ALL have step down converters? Because in previous threads it seemed like having the original AC adapters were good enough...
I never even thought of taking the chance. I ordered a step-down converter before I got my Famicom. My house is old, and I didn't want to start a fire, or fry my Famicom, because my room is already sort of a fire hazard. :P Did you try using a NES RF adapter? Those are a little less picky than the Famicom ones.
Step down converter is pretty much not need in the US. It might be your AC adapter itself, if you something like a Genesis model 1 AC adapter try that.
I might run down to radioshack to pick up a voltage converter just in case... I'm really disappointed that it was probably fried.
Also, I'll go ahead and order that genesis power supply. It's 9V DC right?
Hi,
For those who are FDS savvy, in the photo posted in:
http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=786.msg4995#msg4995
Is the head adjustment screw the Philips screw in the middle or the Allen wrench screw in the middle?
Thanks!
EDIT: Figured it out, and after raising the spindle a bit and tweeking the head screw, I've been able to get about half of my games to work, the other half I get a error 27, so we're almost there!
hi there, long time lurker first time poster.
i recently took the plunge and got a Famicom Disk System and unsurprisingly i can't get it to work.
i managed to replace the belt ok, but can't get anything but Error 22s and the very occasional Error 21.
i've adjusted the motors potentiometer carefully for hours with three different disks, all from reputable sellers who say that the disks were checked and worked perfectly.
so any suggestions on what to do next would be gratefully received, as i'm getting close to giving up on it as a lost cause e.g. earlier on in this thread there was some mentions about aligning the spindle correctly, but all links to photos/guides are now dead.
My pirate 4in1 has the usa tmnt game on it, but when i select it, it goes to the title screen. When i push start, it goes to the map. When i try to go to a level, it freezez, infinitely playing the music. The other games snow bros, chip n dale, and frog adventure work fine. Please help!
I tried the Famicom Disk System error thread, but I guess this is the appropriate place to be asking this.
I bought a Sharp Famicom Twin for my son's 8th birthday. I tested it last night and it worked great, as far as I could tell. The disk game that came with it (Which as best as I can translate is called "Super Deformed Gundam World: Gatchapon Fighters Scramble Wars") loaded up fine and played fine.
Today, however, the NiB Famicom Disk System Metroid and Zelda games I ordered came in. After reverently breaking the seals on the packaging, I loaded each of them up and created save files. Each one gave me an "Error 26" after I created the save, and then wouldn't let me play. I put back in SDGW:GFSW and loaded a game saved by the previous owner with no problem. Then I tried saving. Error 26 again. Ironically, because I sprung for new FDS Zelda and Metroid games hoping to get copies that still worked after twenty-five years, I cannot play them at all because they have no saved games to load and my drive refuses to save. :(
Anyway, if you know any resources you can point me to about how to maybe clean the drive head or get the thing repaired, I'd be very grateful. I've scoured the web and turned up nothing useful. His birthday's on the 19th, and I don't want to give him a box of joy followed by immediate soul-crushing disappointment.
You bought your son a sharp twin famicom?
Can you be my new dad, please?
defective sector in rom...
Unfortunately the only way I can think of for troubleshooting this is by using an oscilloscope to monitor the WRITE DATA and /WRITE GATE signals along their path. I'm by no means an FDS expert (some people here know way more about it than I do) but since it seems that the FDS-related questions are piling up, I'm gonna chime in with a brief explanation.
Error 26 just as you said it means that the system isn't being able to write to the Disk Card. There are two lines responsible for writing to the disk: WRITE DATA, which carries the actual data to be written, and /WRITE GATE, which tells the disk drive to accommodate its circuitry to start writing data to the disk instead of reading.
In a common FDS drive, these signals come out of the RAM Adapter, pass through the Power Board on the FDS drive, and in the case that the Power Board contains copy protection, they get monitored by some special circuitry which interrupts them in case it detects that you're trying to rewrite the whole disk, otherwise they just pass unaltered. Then they enter the disk drive mechanism itself, and arrive at the Drive Controller chip (which can be either the FD7201 or FD3206). When the chip sees the /WRITE GATE line going low and the WRITE DATA broadcasting, it prepares the drive for writing and sends electric pulses to the drive head in an alternating fashion, using two specific wires that go from the controller chip to the drive head.
So this is the path that the data has to travel in order to get written to the disk:
RAM Adapter ---> Power Board ---> Drive Chip ---> R/W Head
Any of those points could be bad and preventing the data from being written. Since the drive reads disks and loads save files fine you can isolate the fault to the write path alone, and this being a Twin Famicom only makes things harder, because everything is so tightly integrated, there's not much room for simple faults like loose connectors.
The write signals carry high-speed digital data so there's not much you can do with a simple multimeter, maybe just check continuity across the signal's path. To "see" the write signals you need an oscilloscope or a logic analyzer (very expensive).
The other option is to swap the FDS drive mechanism with a known good one and see if the problem goes away, basically isolating the problem to a particular section (FDS drive mech vs. the rest of the Twin Fami).
As far as I see it there's no easy fix :-\. But again, I'm no FDS expert so more input on the subject from our resident FDS guys would be greatly appreciated :).
Is there anything i could do to fix it?
Don't underestimate dirty contacts. Give the cart edge connector a good cleaning. Also try it on another console if possible.
Probably just a bad put together pirate tho, if it's not dirty, it's broken probably.
Thanks for all that info! It sounds complicated all right, but I do have access to an oscilloscope and may give some of that a shot.
You mentioned swapping the drive mechanism for a known good one. Is the drive itself the same as in an original FDS system?
Well if you've got access and the skills to use an oscilloscope I can provide you with the relevant pins that carry the write signals so that you can have a look at them ;).
Quote from: superpope on September 05, 2009, 08:34:47 pm
You mentioned swapping the drive mechanism for a known good one. Is the drive itself the same as in an original FDS system?
Correct, it's the same drive mech that it's used in the original FDS. If it works with another drive mechanism then your problem lies on the connector, drive controller chip or R/W head.
If it stays the same you'll have to delve into the Twin's innards, deep down to the 2C33 chip.
Quote from: 133MHz on September 05, 2009, 09:08:17 pm
Well if you've got access and the skills to use an oscilloscope I can provide you with the relevant pins that carry the write signals so that you can have a look at them ;).
That would be great! I also have access to a university electronics professor with a PhD in physics (my father), so hopefully I can learn a thing or two through this process. I myself got a degree in art...it's served me well, but not when it comes to repairing electronics.
Hi guys. I just acquired a Famicom light gun and there seem to be a problem with it. Seems it's not able to detect any light, even when I point the gun up close to the TV. However, it's able to detect when I pull back the trigger. I've tried it on 2 CRT TVs, and both yield the same results :( I then tried a FamiClone light gun and it work like a charm.. I'm suspecting that the phototransistor has worn out, but strangely there is current going through it. I've not gone deeper investigating if there are any changes when light goes into it. I look up the internet and found that it's using this phototransistor made by Panasonic
http://it.digikey.com/1/1/22617-npn-photo-transistor-pnz154.html (http://it.digikey.com/1/1/22617-npn-photo-transistor-pnz154.html)
Sadly I can't find this particular phototransistor here in my local electronics shop. Any ideas on how I can troubleshoot this?
The light gun circuitry is simple enough that you can replace components one by one until you find the culprit. I'd start by checking up the cable, then the resistors & capacitors and finally the phototransistor.
Fortunately phototransistor specs are not too critical for this purpose so you can replace it with a similar looking one.
Thanks 133Mhz!! I'll check it out soon as recommended and let you guys know about it. Btw, I stumbled across your Flickr album the other day, and I'm impressed with all those cool projects you have with the NES/FC.. Really cool stuff!!
I have a modified PAL Nes and a pile of Famicom games.
I got a 60 pin -> 72 pin adaptor today. When I try to start a Famicom game with the adaptor, the screen goes white.
It's the same white screen when booting nes without a game.
I wonder is the adaptor broken or something? :(
???
Hi all,
Can you show on picture about that srub screw & spindle?
I have the same problem with my recently acquired Famicom FDS ie getting err 22, and had the belt changed according to the seller provided instructions and pictures. Turned the motor with a very fine flat screw by sticking it into the hole and got no luck. I am in the verge of giving it up (just got the drive shipped over for 2 days ONLY!). Spoke to a few shops here in Hong KOng, none wanted to check nor repair for me even by paying 2 times the cost ...... i am very frustrated seeing a device which i love but wont work .......
Need some expert advice from anyone in the Forum .......... i shall be very very very very very very very grateful ...........
:8(
Tks.
Hi guys, I originally had the same issues with the FDS when I first got it. The original belt was snapped , and I tried making my own belt using a hair rubber band. I attached the DIY belt and it worked.. but only for a day before it snapped. I then ordered a proper replacement belt from eBay. While waiting I was so anxious to get the FDS working, so I went ahead and tried rubber gloves instead. I cut out my own belt out of it (with alot of precise cutting) and put it in. It worked but I'm getting Err 22 consistently even with a good disk. So I went searching for sites.. and all was nothing but Page Not Found and it was really disappointing and frustrating!! Then I stumbled upon a Jap site.. Here's the link with google translator :
http://translate.google.com.my/translate?u=http://www.dcn.ne.jp/~asuka/index.files/ds_hokan/disksystem.html&sl=ja&tl=en&hl=en&ie=UTF-8
I tried my best to follow the steps there (even though I don't read JP. Just by reading the translated text and looking at the pics) .. and when I put everything back together.. IT WORKS!!!! and it works all the time!
Since then, my proper replacement belt has arrived, but I still haven't used it yet, as my FDS is already running like a healthy fox. :P
I guess the most important step that all of these FDS repair guides are missing, is the head alignment. It has to sit at a correct angle as shown in this guide. Please try it out and let me know if it works for ya...
Good luck!! ;)
Hi ,
now reading the instruction ....... one thing i want to know is that the 18 pin connector at the end of the drive..... mine has got 17 pin....? is that true?
One pin is unused? Hmm.. I don't remember how many mine has.. But it's not important for this repair...
Hi again,
forgive my my-understanding .... the "head alignment"? which bit? your valuable advice is welcome
Quote from: rushed on September 08, 2009, 11:04:06 pm
I have a modified PAL Nes and a pile of Famicom games.
I got a 60 pin -> 72 pin adaptor today. When I try to start a Famicom game with the adaptor, the screen goes white.
It's the same white screen when booting nes without a game.
I wonder is the adaptor broken or something? :(
The two most-possible factors would be 1.) Dirty pin connectors. If you haven't yet, clean the pins with a Q-tip and some isopropyl (did I spell that right?) rubbing alcohol. 2.) You're putting the cartridge in the wrong way. Clean the pins first, and then try the cartridge both ways. If it still doesn't work, it could be a little more complicated.
first off, thanks Phatphunk for the link. i can sort of make sense of it up until the head alignment part, but at that point it kind of loses me.
in this picture http://www.dcn.ne.jp/~asuka/index.files/ds_hokan/240x180/03_20_c_240_1.jpg
what am i looking for in the circled hole? is it the point with the least amount of metal/most amount of white cog showing?
and then this picture http://www.dcn.ne.jp/~asuka/index.files/ds_hokan/240x180/03_22_240_1.jpg
i sort of get that the drive head should be placed & fixed in the position shown, but the bit marked "important" i just can't figure out.
any sort of help with this would be gratefully received!
Hey Zappi. No problem man. I'll try to help out as much as I can. It's been months since I did the surgery myself. So I'll try my best to recall the important steps.
Quote from: zappi on September 09, 2009, 06:02:24 pm
first off, thanks Phatphunk for the link. i can sort of make sense of it up until the head alignment part, but at that point it kind of loses me.
in this picture http://www.dcn.ne.jp/~asuka/index.files/ds_hokan/240x180/03_20_c_240_1.jpg
what am i looking for in the circled hole? is it the point with the least amount of metal/most amount of white cog showing?
[Phatphunk] Correct! You should slowly turn the big white gear from the underside until you have it positioned as pictured. There'll be a click sound when it is in position.
and then this picture http://www.dcn.ne.jp/~asuka/index.files/ds_hokan/240x180/03_22_240_1.jpg
i sort of get that the drive head should be placed & fixed in the position shown, but the bit marked "important" i just can't figure out.
[Phatphunk] I think the "Important" text in that guide is to verify that you've fixed the head correctly. He suggests that you rotate the white gear until it makes that click sound again.. and when that happens.. the head should still be aligned as how you'd originally fixed it. Otherwise, you'll need to fine tune your adjustment. It is also important that you don't tighten the head too much.
any sort of help with this would be gratefully received!
Hope you can get it going! Good luck! :)
thanks for replying so quickly.
the "important" bit makes sense now, when the tray slides back and you get the big clicking noise then the head should be aligned in parallel.
now where did i put my screwdrivers ....
Hi there, i used to get Err 22, now i am getting Err 21..... :'(
Is t a good sign or i still miss out the head alignment?
Quote from: mid30s on September 10, 2009, 09:12:09 am
Hi there, i used to get Err 22, now i am getting Err 21..... :'(
Is t a good sign or i still miss out the head alignment?
Hmm.. It means your disk head is still misaligned...
I give up! err 22 pops up again! >:(
tremedously tks for your kind advice.
Head alignment should be last resort. If you notice, the adjustment screw has a red color on it. It is a glue to lock it into place. I noticed that you made adjustments to the motor speed. This is very difficult to perform without a program to calibrate the speed. I use copymaster to check the speed. If you don't have copymaster, you have to do a trial and error run. Turn the screw totally clockwise then test a game. If that doesn't work, then keep turning the screw gradually counterclockwise till it works. In my experience, the faster the motor the more likely the game won't load.
Since you modified, the head screw now you have to worry about the head alignment AND the motor speed. This is really tough. I have a reference drive that I use to gauge if a game will work. If the game works on my reference drive then I adjust the head till the game works. If you don't have a drive to test the game you are sol.
I hope this helps.
Here is something I wrote on the digitalpress board 4 yrs ago on adjusting the FDS head. Good Luck:
Well folks, I fixed about 3 dead drives already. I replaced the belts and I had to adjust the motor and the head to get them working. There is actually a method that works to perform this.
1. Change the belt. I also used JF Good's belt.
2. Tune the motor all the way down! I believe it is counter clockwise (just look for the negative sign on the motor and adjust that direction). This is the real trick! All three drives I had to adjust the motor to run slower.
3. Now adjust the heads.
So, the errors really tell you what's going on.
a. When you turn the head adjustment screw, the trick is to get it right at the beginning of the disk track. So, if you see an Error 21 "Disk Header block (NINTENDO-HVC*) part is wrong", 22, "Disk Header Block Recognition isn't read and can't be ignored", this means that you are "BEFORE" the beginning of the header track. You need to adjust the head forward until you finally read the disk. This takes time. You basically have to keep loading a disk until you see the FDS game boots up. It is a great feeling when you see it!
b. If you adjust the head forward too much, you get a Disk Error 27, "Block end mark seen and ends prematurely". Or even Error 28, 29. Turn it back to the beginning until you get the error 21,22s.
I have been using this methodology for 3 FDS and I fix them everytime if the belt, motor adjustment, and alignment are the problem. If you have any electronics problems then you are SOL.
So, I have given everyone the secrets to adjustment and it really is not a secret anymore!
If you have a broken drive and you need it fixed, PM me. I can probably take a look at it. Anyway just PM me.
Good Luck and let me know if my methodology works for you.
Hi,
still getting no joy at all .......... though i am so chuffed that i have so many helps from the forum.
its been a good lesson for me to deal with more than 20 yrs old famicom stuffs...
really appreciate it.
Big juicy thank! :D
Ta
Hello,
I'm sure this is a noob question, but please bear with me.
I just recently purchased an A/V Famicom (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230362096246&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT) and a 72-to-60 pin adapter so I can play my American NES games on it. However, upon setting up, all I get is a red, or sometimes green screen. Hitting the reset button doesn't cause the screen to blip like it does on my NES. I'm also using the stock Japanese power adapter that came with it. Am I doing something wrong? I realize I should be using a step-down converter, but I just wanted to give it a quick test to make sure it worked. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
The US game needs to be put in backwards, are you doing that?
Japanese and US pins are reversed.
I just tried reversing the game. Still the same issue. Any other suggestions?
Quote from: The Uninvited Gremlin on September 16, 2009, 03:42:52 pm
The US game needs to be put in backwards, are you doing that?
Japanese and US pins are reversed.
I still forget to do this from time to time. :P
Give the contacts on the converter and the AV Famicom a thorough cleaning. A solid color screen means that the games aren't making good contact with the system due to dirty contacts.
Hey guys, I finally got my famicom working today, but there is a problem. The A/V is off. I get it on channel 12 and 93, but It's in black and white and the audio is just static. I have this RF unit http://www.japanvideogames.com/v/vspfiles/photos/SNES-RF-1.jpg (http://www.japanvideogames.com/v/vspfiles/photos/SNES-RF-1.jpg). What is the problem? The RF thing inside the famicom, the RF unit, or my TV? Thanks in advance!
Channel 95 tends to be the Famicom Channel.
Try that channel.
Edit- Because on my tv I get sound on channel 8, and on channel 98 I get black and white video; that waves really badly.
But channel 95 is the sweet spot on most televisions.
Where are you from?
I'm from the US. 8)
95 doesn't work on any of my tvs. 93 and 13 work, but i occasionally get color on 13, but no sound >:(
Quote from: petik1 on September 19, 2009, 12:24:57 pm
95 doesn't work on any of my tvs. 93 and 13 work, but i occasionally get color on 13, but no sound >:(
Flip the channel switch and try channel 95 again.
okay, i don't have a famicom, but to clafify something important, it's CABLE 95. Your tv needs to be in cable/STD/IRC/HRC mode to get a famisiginal on channel 95.
Well, to be honest, I dont know how to do that. :-[ My TV is just a little magnavox tv and it's not hooked up to a box or anything for shows. Thats what big Tvs are for! :D
Hi I just bought an AV famicom and would like to know if I need to make any modification to the AC adapter or am I good with the one it comes from? I know the hori ac adapter that came with my famicom works here in the US but was wondering if it's the same thing with the AV Famicom. Thanks in advance!
Yep, the same thing. The difference between 100 and 110-120VAC is negligible, so just go ahead, plug and play!
If you want to be extra cautious, unplug the AC adapter after playing (as you should do anyway!).
Oh yeah of course I unplug my ac cables every single time. har har....man I can't wait until it arrives!
Hey guys I need some help. I bought a famiclone with no cables. I got an ac adapter and av cables which helped the machine work except I get no screen. I only get the tv screen real shaky but no picture or sound. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Here are some photos of the inside.
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/luiszena/DSC00115-1.jpg)
(http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff280/luiszena/DSC00116-1.jpg)
Any advice or help will be appreciated.
I see. Is it busted already?
Hello,
I've recently got the old Famicom off of Ebay, and apparently, there wasn't an AC adapter in the box. The seller told me it was FedEx's fault, but I'm not sure. Anyways, the AC adapter I've been using for my NES outputs the following:
9VDC
1200mA
Center polarity Negative
Will it work for the famicom too?
Absolutely :).
Awesome, now I don't have to keep going on an internet hunt.
But, now there seems to be another problem. I've connected the famicom directly to the TV from a little converter that changes the RF switch input to the actual RF cable. I've heard that the Famicom broadcasts on channel 95, but it's not appearing. Do I really need an RF switch? It didn't come with the famicom. I've made sure that the Switches on the back are on Game and Channel 1.
EDIT: Now that I look at it, there are two other cables coming out of the back of the famicom:
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/6513/1000040zb.th.jpg) (http://img32.imageshack.us/i/1000040zb.jpg/)
I'm not sure if they're suppose to be there, but The cables come from beneath the 2nd controller port. I've tried them on a standard RCA input, but I got no results.
That seems to be an AV mod. If you don't get a picture, maybe your Famicom isn't powering up.
Well, I've tried quite a bit to try and get it to work. If it isn't powering up, like you said, then it looks like I have a $44 piece of junk. :'(
Check the fuse inside on the power supply board (the one the AC adapter plugs into).
(http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/2665/1000041wo.th.jpg) (http://img36.imageshack.us/i/1000041wo.jpg/)
I think the hole is where the fuse should be, but I'm not very sure. If the fuse is busted, then will I be able to find a replacement?
Have a look here. You can see the fuse in the picture. I'd suggest just bypassing it by soldering in a small wire.
http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=786.msg31310#msg31310
Very strange, I don't see anything like that fuse on my power supply board.
(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/6240/1000042r.th.jpg) (http://img59.imageshack.us/i/1000042r.jpg/)
Could you take a picture of the other side of the RF modulator board?
It was on the previous page, but:
(http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/2665/1000041wo.th.jpg) (http://img36.imageshack.us/i/1000041wo.jpg/)
Edit: between not having an AC adapter and not powering up, it looks like I'm going to have to leave my first negative feedback on ebay.
EDIT2: If there's nobody that can help me fix this, then Who am I supposed to sell this to? I don't know of any collector that will buy a broken famicom.
Got Ruthenium's Famicom in the mail today to test it out. Good thing is that it is getting power on both boards. Most likely the A/V mod is where the problem is at.
133MHz, any chance you see something that I'm not seeing that is wrong with the current mod before I redo it? I checked the cables and they have continuity, so they're ok, although not great quality. Also, I'm a little confused why the A/V cables are only connected to the RF/PS board. Thoughts?
That kind of AV mod is weird, but you should get some kind of picture and sound. The video signal will be unamplified and the audio will have a DC offset, but it should display something recognizable. Better redo the mod anyway.
My Famicom came with a similar mod (wires directly soldered to the Audio and Video points - and a resistor or two in series with them). The picture was really dark and my TVs had a very hard time trying to sync to the video signal. The wires, resistors and connectors were really old too, so this was probably done back in the day. I don't know why we keep finding this old mod if it doesn't work, maybe there are TVs out there that can display such an out-of-spec composite video signal? Japanese TVs probably? ???
You say you've got power on both boards. Is it the unregulated voltage that goes to the power switch or is it the regulated +5V supply from the output of the 7805?
Thanks for your input. :)
I'll work on redoing it this week with new rca cables and hopefully it will work. I'll keep you posted.
This might sound trivial and not even worth asking, but have you tried reversing the RCA leads? Maybe the colors of the connectors are incorrect and you're "listening" to the video signal (composite video makes for a neat buzzing sound).
In case you've already tried, sorry for asking such a dumb thing.
I just finished the av mod on Ruthenium's Famicom and it's working with picture & great sound using 133MHz's schematic. While the picture is in color and stable, the colors are a bit muted. The Famicom has the board revision with the VIDEO, VCC, SOU, etc. points marked on it. I'm tapping the video from the VIDEO point. Is there a different place I should try? I'm using a 2N2222 transistor but otherwise, all the resistors and caps are as noted on the schematic.
Try varying the 75Ω resistor's value. If the picutre is too white try increasing it a bit.
I'll grab a 100ohm resistor tomorrow and try it out. Thanks, 133MHz! ;)
Hey, I blew a cap on my famicom. Am I screwed?
A little dusty, but fine.
(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/7458/dsc00330vw.jpg)
(http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/8711/dsc00332.jpg)
Blown:
(http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/7307/dsc00339a.jpg)
No discoloration on the chips:
(http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/9379/dsc00342.jpg)
Do you think if I replace the cap with a duplicate from Radio Shack, will my famicom operate? (I've never gotten this thing to work, It could have been blown when I bought it. I just looked under the hood today.)
Also, I heard somewhere that there was a fuse in this thing, but I can't seem to find it. Is there truly a fuse in famicoms?
The big one? That's the main filter capacitor. Not hard to find and not expensive, also its value is not critical (as in you can replace it with a higher voltage/capacity cap in case you don't find an exact replacement). By all means replace it.
Some Famicom RF modulator boards have a fuse, but not a standard glass one. It looks like a black rectangle with radial leads. It can't be seen from the angle of your pictures.
Try to take a picture from the side of the blown capacitor and one from the underside of the board.
(http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/9044/dsc00345nu.jpg)
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6268/dsc00349xs.jpg)
(http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/5751/dsc00352dw.jpg)
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/66/dsc00354j.jpg)
Your pictures are great! Very sharp and excellent lighting. It's not easy to photograph printed circuit boards and having the circuit traces turn up so clear and detailed. My hat's off to you, sir!
Your Famicom doesn't have a fuse, which means that not only the main filter capacitor is blown, also the 7805 voltage regulator is dead. Replace both and your Famicom should be back in business!
Also I have noticed that the capacitor's rating is 1000µF 6.3V
This is incorrect (which means that this capacitor has been replaced before). Its voltage rating is too low, which is why it blew up. If you replace it with the same type, it's going to blow up again.
Replace it with a 1000µF, 16 or 25 V electrolytic capacitor and your problems will be over. Remember to respect the polarity!
Thank you very much! I'll buy those parts you talked about and hope for the best.
I can't tell if your using sarcasm there with the pictures though, they're mostly out of focus. I can't seem to find the manual focus on my camera.
Long story short, buy these:
- 7805 Voltage Regulator IC
- 1000µF 16 or 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
Wish you the best of luck with reviving your Famicom! ;)
I don't think he's being sarcastic; those are nice pictures.
Quote from: 133MHz on October 09, 2009, 06:47:07 pm
Try varying the 75Ω resistor's value. If the picutre is too white try increasing it a bit.
Just tried a 100ohm resistor and the picture is perfect. Thanks for your help! ;D
I'll be sending this back to Ruthenium on
Monday. Make that Tuesday, since Monday is a federal holiday and the post office is closed.
Just one more quick question, I think my original famicom AC adaptor is broken, so I bought this one off ebay.
This one takes in American 120 Volts and converts to the needed 10 V DC.
(http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/6828/dsc00384m.jpg)
(http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/7435/dsc00385o.jpg)
This is okay, right?
It is, as long as you mate the "tip" side with the "-" side on the end that goes into the Famicom.
I have that exact same AC adaptor for my Famicom. Works beautifully! ;)
Quote from: Ruthenium on September 29, 2009, 03:10:04 pm
Hello,
I've recently got the old Famicom off of Ebay, and apparently, there wasn't an AC adapter in the box. The seller told me it was FedEx's fault, but I'm not sure. Anyways, the AC adapter I've been using for my NES outputs the following:
9VDC
1200mA
Center polarity Negative
Will it work for the famicom too?
I think this may have caused the problem with your Famicom. The NES AC adaptor outputs AC, not DC. I had to replace the 7805 voltage regulator to get your Famicom to power up. Surprisingly, the capacitor was undamaged.
You may want to pick up a new AC adapter. Here's the universal one I use on mine, and it's only $10 with shipping:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Radio-Shack-Cat-No-273-1614-AC-Adapter-10V-850mA_W0QQitemZ370260362359QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item56353cc477
The AC adapter I was using was not the Official NES adapter, it was some other generic one that outputs a DC voltage. Here's a picture of the label:
(http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/7326/1000005.th.jpg) (http://img67.imageshack.us/i/1000005.jpg/)
Sorry about the quality, my camera didn't want to cooperate.
That should work. At least there's no risk of frying.
Maybe the voltage regulator was bad when you got it. Did you ever get it to work at all?
Just got a cheap untested HK Famicom ( HVC-001HKG ) with no AC adapter. Now, I know the specs from the database say the adapter runs off of this:
MODEL HVC-002 HKG
AC200V 50Hz 17W
DC10V 850mA
+ ------ C------- -
So, what adapter would I need to be able to power on and test the system (in the US)?
I haven't gotten it to work at all since I got it.
I'm not sure what might have caused the problem though.
Quote from: b1aCkDeA7h on October 13, 2009, 06:33:32 pm
Just got a cheap untested HK Famicom ( HVC-001HKG ) with no AC adapter. Now, I know the specs from the database say the adapter runs off of this:
MODEL HVC-002 HKG
AC200V 50Hz 17W
DC10V 850mA
+ ------ C------- -
So, what adapter would I need to be able to power on and test the system (in the US)?
Was that thing a pirate? I'm not aware of Nintendo making a "Hong Kong" version of the famicom.
Was that the one on ebay for $49 BIN or Best Offer?
This one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Nintendo-Red-Famicom-Hong-Kong-Game-Console_W0QQitemZ310172908230QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4837befac6
That's the one I was thinking about.
Dunno, but yeah, that's the one I just snagged.
I figured it was legit based on the database page that says:
" Note that Nintendo officially released Famicom products in Hong Kong. The codes on those products were the same but with "HKG" added to the end of each code (such as HVC-001HKG). Also note that not all of Nintendo's codes began with "HVC." For anything related to the Disk System, almost all of the codes began with "FMC." "
The model number matches up, if nothing else. It was cheap, so why not? I just don't want to fry it when I test it.
I hope posting this here is okay, as I see lots of info on systems, but nothing on cart games.
Here's my problem (random freezing):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vp-zxV_lgmc
The game used to work great, but now it seems to only freeze when you shoot a projectile or an enemy is about to enter the screen. I've tried the game on both my U.S. NES front and top loader via Gyromite adapter and it has the same problem. I've used rubbing alcohol to clean it, and all my other fami games work just fine. Any ideas?
If it always does that given the same conditions and in different systems, I'd say that you have a bad mapper or ROM chips. :-\
Does the famicom have any sort of lockout chip?
Not at all :).
Ok i was just wondering because i heard of a few cases where pirate games only work on famiclones and not the liscenced systems (FC and twin FC and AV FC...)
That's actually sort of true, but it's nothing technical. It's more of a physical problem. For example, my Pokemon Crystal pirate produces messy graphics when played in my Famicom, but when I put it in my Power Joy, the cart slot is much tighter, and I get a clear picture.
At the expense of the cartridge breaking. >_>
I would disagree..I have 2 carts that will only play on a clone. One of them will not even load the title screen and the other changes the first level of the game so it's unplayable although the graphics remain okay.
But that's not because of a lockout issue. Your pirates probably don't work on original systems because they depend on the intrinsic design errors of clones to work properly (like the incorrect sound registers and some lines not connected to the cartridge slot - the same thing that prevents Castlevania III from working on most clones).
Oh, I didn't realize that famiac said lockout chip. Of course that's not the problem since the famicom ain't got one. :P
:P yeah i was wondering why the response
On a famiclone im playing, the controlles acts as if left is always being held dowm. Why, and how to fix??
Stuck switch inside the controller? Open it up and see if the problem goes away.
K, this is my first ever time opening up a controller, im gona buy a screwdriver. Ill let you know how it goes.
Hi, remember me? I'm the guy from page 62 of this thread who bought his eight year old son a Famicom Twin for his birthday that reads disks fine but won't write. Here's a follow up:
My son chose to buy himself a separate FDS with money he had saved, with the thought that we could either swap out the drives or just plug this drive into the cartridge slot of the Famicom Twin. Well, it came do-it-yourself with a fresh belt (I misread the auction and thought it came with a fresh belt installed and a spare). I put on the new belt and only get error 21 or 22 when I try to load any disks.
I see all sorts of suggestions on how to fix read errors, from adjusting the motor speed to adjusting the drive head to stretching the belt. It seems to me that adjusting the drive head would be the most logical first step, but I don't want to just charge into this and complicate the issue by introducing additional incorrectly adjusted variables. What do you think?
IN OTHER NEWS, pulling the drive from inside the Famicom Twin and installing it in the FDS allows me to load and save games perfectly, so clearly whatever is faulty and keeping the Famicom Twin from saving is in the Twin's internal FDS hardware and not the drive.
I seem to be having some FDS problems as well.
I just recieved one in the mail today, and I was jumping for joy since I got my new toy.
However, when loading a game, it seems to be taking an obscenely long time to load the game.
How long is it supposed to take to load a game? So far, I haven't gotten any error messages.
It should load fairly quickly. The head may need cleaned or the spindle bearing may need lubricated since it may be spinning slowly. Is it able to eventually load your games?
Found the problem: b0rked drive belt.
Thank goodness the seller provided a new one!
Why don't I get answers? Are my questions too hard? ;)
I don't mean to be disrespectful to your questions, superpope, but it seems that I have another problem.
I replaced the drive belt in the FDS, and it started working a few times.
But then, I found that the video started turning grey, and was very staticy. I checked the connections, and they were fine. Now, I'm getting no video at all, but the audio works.
I did not open up the Famicom, and I did nothing that could've messed up the internal parts.
I'm really hoping that I didn't somehow mess up the A/V mod.
Will it work with a cart?
Quote from: superpope on October 21, 2009, 01:46:31 pm
Why don't I get answers? Are my questions too hard? ;)
Yes, they are. :P
I couldn't give you an exact answer without poking my multimeter around your Twin, and I'd probably need an oscilloscope too.
Well now you know that the problem is in the RAM Adapter portion of the Twin itself, which includes the 2C33 chip and everything in its path until it reaches the drive mech. connector. You'd have to follow the /WRITE GATE and /WRITE DATA signal all the way from the 2C33's pins to see if there's something breaking its path along the way. Failing that, replace the 2C33.
Quote from: Ruthenium on October 21, 2009, 02:14:38 pm
I don't mean to be disrespectful to your questions, superpope, but it seems that I have another problem.
I replaced the drive belt in the FDS, and it started working a few times.
But then, I found that the video started turning grey, and was very staticy. I checked the connections, and they were fine. Now, I'm getting no video at all, but the audio works.
I did not open up the Famicom, and I did nothing that could've messed up the internal parts.
I'm really hoping that I didn't somehow mess up the A/V mod.
It seems that you did mess up the AV mod... :-\
Standard troubleshooting techniques apply. Try poking around with the tip of the Video RCA connector around the video connections and see if you can get a picture.
The video turning gray and staticy would probably be a problem with the RAM, RAM connection to Famicom, or FDS. Try a cart game and see if the video works.
@superpope: try adjusting motor speed first. Only adjust the head as a last resort and be careful not to strip the screw in it if you do.
Quote from: ericj on October 21, 2009, 02:27:57 pm
The video turning gray and staticy would probably be a problem with the RAM or FDS.
Why would this happen? Increased power consumption of the FDS RAM Adapter vs. common cartridge?
nope, it's happening for the cart games as well.
Jeez, if this thing is causing me this much trouble, I might as well go find a cheap game genie and sell the famicom.
Alright, against Ericj's wishes, I decided to open up the famicom. I loosened up the AV mod parts, and now it works like a charm. :D
Quote from: ericj on October 21, 2009, 02:27:57 pm
@superpope: try adjusting motor speed first. Only adjust the head as a last resort and be careful not to strip the screw in it if you do.
Thanks! I'll give it a shot.
Quote from: Ruthenium on October 21, 2009, 02:33:46 pm
Alright, against Ericj's wishes, I decided to open up the famicom. I loosened up the AV mod parts, and now it works like a charm. :D
Glad it's working for you again. I'd suggest just pulling the carts out and not moving the eject lever to do it since it may (although unlikely) catch on a wire and cause you problems. And my suggestion was before when it was working not to open it. Since it wasn't working right, opening it to take a look makes sense.
So, I have a FDS question, too. I got a writable drive from madman that needed a new belt & a RAM adapter. I got both in the mail and put the new belt on today. It reads about every other disk I have okay. So, I'm thinking I may need to adjust the motor speed. But before I do so, he said the motor speed was adjusted/optimized with copymaster. From what I understand, that adjusts the drive speed to write & read disks faster. Would it be stupid for me to adjust the motor speed? Should I be looking at something else first? I did clean the head with a cleaning disk and that helped somewhat.
Maybe it needs its speed adjusted again, since the tension exerted by the belt can vary it. Also did you align the spindle after replacing the belt?
On my issue: I adjusted the motor speed yesterday evening. Tried then entire range in microscopic increments and never got any message on-screen except for Err. 22 and the occasional Err. 21. I tried matching the speed of the drive by comparing its "tone" to the sound of my other FDS drive that works perfectly. Still no luck.
I'm a little confused by the concept of spindle alignment...I did the belt replacement by following a video on YouTube that suggested I mark the indentation with a sharpie and replacing it without ever removing the black plastic cover. That is what I did. I fidgeted with that quite a while, thinking my problem was that I was doing that wrong, but since everything I try is just a stab in the dark I just tried to align it as best I could and went on.
So is the dreaded head alignment my only resort at this point?
Quote from: 133MHz on October 23, 2009, 10:01:29 am
Maybe it needs its speed adjusted again, since the tension exerted by the belt can vary it. Also did you align the spindle after replacing the belt?
I did align the spindle and am pretty sure I got the screw perfectly in that little indentation. I'll recheck it, and, if it still has the problem, I'll try adjusting the speed. Thanks :)
Quote from: superpope on October 23, 2009, 11:01:44 am
So is the dreaded head alignment my only resort at this point?
Did you clean the head? If not, try that and make sure all the switches are in the right places and that none of the wires broke off at the solder points. If all's good, you'll probably have to adjust the head.
I have a famiclone that looks like a real fami. It turns on. On the back, there is a white and yellow labeled video audio. And a red labeled Rf out. I tried with a nes rf. I tried avs, but it acts like nothings in there! Please help me
A NES RF Switch won't work with it - those Famiclones need a manual RF switchbox (not enough signal strength to trigger automatic ones).
Try the AV leads in all sorts of combinations. It's not rare for them to be mislabeled or something.
Ive tried every combination. Two of them feel very loose when i put them in.
Um a nes rf would work with an old 1st famicom right?
Yes. Just not an NES power supply. :P
Hey, I have a question. I received a multicart from a friend here. It does not work, but he gave me pictures of it working before purchase, so I know it was not a scam. Problem is, when it arrived, the first game (Pokemon Yellow) on the cart didn't boot. The second game, Pokemon Red had messed up graphics but played fine. The third game, Ferrari some visual garbage and horizontal lines at random. The final game, Harry Potter, which is the worst game on the cart ironically works just fine.
http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/9581/dsc00484j.jpg
http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/7941/dsc00488m.jpg
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/4804/dsc00490el.jpg
I cleaned the contacts, but they simply weren't dirty. How could shipping screw up a cartridge? It's glob top so the chip shouldn't become magically unsoldered.
Are you trying it on official hardware? Some pirate games only work on clones, so try that and see if it works if you haven't done so already. Globtops sometimes go bad, too.
Whats a globtop?
My famicom blew a gasket so I had to try them on my Power Joy 3 and my YoboFC. Both pirates gave the same glitches.
I have a few carts that did the same thing. The globtop is probably messed up; I don't know of any way to fix it. Maybe it'll work okay on a real Famicom.
Quote from: Nightstar699 on November 07, 2009, 11:30:30 pm
Whats a globtop?
It's a little chip under a glob of epoxy. They can squeeze lots of games in those.
This is more of a TV question, but it does impact my Famicom enjoyment!
The picture on my TV looks like it's shifted to the right, such that there is a vertical black bar on the left and the far-right part of the picture is unviewable. Is there a way to get it to move back to the left?
Here's a pic:
(http://ximwix.net/storage/tvshift.jpg)
Most games were designed to compensate for the edges of the screen being unviewable, so games are still playable. Still, the fact that it's off-center is bugging me.
The Famicom's video output is shifted by one tile to the right - the reason for this is still unknown to me, but that's how it is, perfectly normal behavior for any Famicom system on any standard TV.
Ironically it looks skewed because your TV is perfectly centered. Since it's an old TV you could open it up and mess with the internal H. CENTER or H. PHASE adjustments to displace the raster to the left as a way to compensate for the Fami's skewed video output, but then your other consoles' video output would display shifted to the left. ::)
Remember this? :P http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=2984.0
Interesting. If it's already correct, I'd rather not mess with the TV's horizontal settings (although there are two holes in the back of the TV that I suspect are for doing just that). Thanks!
Quote from: 133MHz on November 18, 2009, 07:51:51 pm
Remember this? :P http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=2984.0
Haha. I remember talking about the iNES headers, but I forgot what the thread was actually about :P
Just for extra clarification (since one of the comments on that old thread was that I didn't explain myself clearly) I've taken a screenshot from a very accurate emulator to prove that the video frames are being generated like that on the PPU itself.
(http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/8947/famimissingtiles.png)
Nintendulator (as most emulators do) displays the full 256x224 frame buffer, and so the missing tiles can be clearly seen.
It depends on the game how obnoxious it is - i.e. with a black background you won't even notice it. In games like SMB3 it's really annoying.
does any one here no how to get a famicom pirate that looks like a famicom but with plug in controllers working. it does nothing when i turn it on it doesnt look like it is powering on
Take some pictures. Maybe it's a faulty power switch or a loose cord.
hi orbitmint.
for anyone who could help, this is the EXACT system hes talking about
Check the AC adapter first. Famiclone AC adapters are notorious for being substandard quality and they tend to break for no apparent reason.
a lot of systems do that. Chrono trigger has a bar at the bottom of the screen.
Hi there,
I have a problem with a Famicom Disk System and i hope that someone here could help me.
Let me describe what happens :
First my disk system wasn't able to play games. When I tried to play a game, the loading screen did appear but nothing happened. I could hear a nooise that sound like the motor's rotating.
I thought naturally at the belt, and indeed, there was no more belt inside. So i bought a new one, and replaced it. I was very precautionous.
But now I have a new problem : when I put a game into the disk system, I have this error message : "battery err.02" wich significates that my disk sytem is unplugged.
But it's pluged and my adaptor works fine (tested on another system). I also tried with batteries but the result is the same.
So i ask the community, does someone also face this problem? What can I do? I guess I've done something wrong when I reassemble the system because I didn't have this problem before changing the belt and I could hear the motor working, but I don't see what. I used a continuity testor but all seems to be alright.
It's hard to have this system i never played and not be able to play with!
Thank you for reading and helping.
(PS : excuse my bad english, i'm european but this forum is the only one where i guess i could have answers)
Maybe the data cable came loose when you replaced the belt (the cable that connects the power board with the disk drive mechanism, inside the system). Tighten it up on both ends and make sure it's plugged in the right way around.
It's interesting, I d'ont paid any attention to this. But i'm not sure to see exactly what cable you mean. Did you have a pic or a link to a picture that show this cable in particular? What color is he?
I'm gonna check it tonight. Anyway it's probably a problem between my power supply and the disk drive mechanism : the power don't arrive to the mechanism, there must be something wrong.
What you call power board is the PCB under the battery case right?
Thank you for trying to help me.
There's only one cable that connects to the drive unit itself. It's a ribbon like cable with a huge connector. That cable also supplies current to the drive unit. I wish I can bust mine open and show you the pic but it's rather late now. You will definitely need to remove that cable before opening up the drive unit.. So I'm sure you have removed it before and put it back in. 133Mhz could be right, the cable might be loose or connected incorrectly.
Also check that you didn't knock one of the wires off the motor. I'm not sure if it will give you the same error, but I had to resolder both of mine after replacing the belt.
Quote from: zzoreil on December 11, 2009, 06:47:52 am
this cable in particular, What color is it?
Lots of different colored wires.
Quote from: zzoreil on December 11, 2009, 06:47:52 am
What you call power board is the PCB under the battery case right?
Correct. The disk drive mechanism is the other thing there. The data cable is the one joining them together. The cable can be plugged in upside down by accident. Also check out ericj's suggestion. It's easy to break out those fragile wires if you're moving stuff around.
Hi.
I didn't have time last weekend but perhaps tonight.
So the supply cable is that wire i had to remove to change the belt. Indeed the connector is huge but i removed it very carefully. There"s one pin missing but i saw pics and video where this pin is always missing. It seems to be normal. Does the cable have a way to be connect? If it's that i'm gonna invert the way he is plugged.
For the 2 wires off the motor (the white and red right?), it seems to be okay and i had prevented them from too much tension while changing the belt.
I'm gonna check the way my wire cable is plugged, it could really be that...
By the way, i really thank you all for helping me, great community! I'll tell you what will happen.
Unfortunately, the wire cable was plugged in the right way. I plugged it upside down, and then nothing happens when i introduced a game in the disk system (the start screen stay normal with luigi and mario running around).
But when i plug the cable in the right way i have the message error.02 when i put a game. So i guess that the power board and the mechanism are still communicating. But in what way? Power Board to mechanism or only mechanism to power board?
Is it possible that informations go through the cable and not the power?
By the way i hope that this statement will help me to locate the problem.
Hi, I have a famicom and never tested it as I don't have the power adapter but there are 2 very strange things I would like to know about before I get anything for it. These 2 strange things are a cord coming out the TV <--> Game switch and a TURBO cartridge thing sticking into where a cartridge should go. I took the Famicom apart to try and take this beast off but i've had no success.After looking on the internet for this Turbo cartridge thing I have found nothing here are some photos I have taken. If anyone knows anything that would be a great help.
Thanks,
Lasersamurai
The Famicom looked on from the front.
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af293/Lasersamurai/Famicom/IMG_0300-1.jpg)
The Turbo adapter thing:
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af293/Lasersamurai/Famicom/IMG_0301.jpg)
The turbo adapter with it's top off:
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af293/Lasersamurai/Famicom/IMG_0302.jpg)
Back of the Famicom with the cord:
(http://i1017.photobucket.com/albums/af293/Lasersamurai/Famicom/IMG_0305.jpg)
That cord is probably there so you can just plug that in instead of having to use the Japanese RF switch. You may want to experiment to see what channel you get a picture on when you do happen to get it up and running. The device on the top is strange, since you said it won't come off. I would think it's something like a Game Doctor, but I guess you can't be sure until you actually try playing some games on it. It's strange that it won't come off at all though. Is there any way you can open the Famicom itself and see what the inside looks like? Or is the device on top restraining you from doing so?
I swore I already replied to this post but apparently I never did :-\. Nintendodork is on the right track. It seems that your Famicom has been AV modded, with the video output on the (former) RF Switch jack and the audio output on the RCA cable coming out of the system (or vice versa). Try to hook it up to the AV inputs of your TV and see if you can get a picture. If nothing happens or you get a loud buzzing sound, try reversing the leads. If all else fails, try dork's original suggestion.
As for the TURBO thing, it seems to be a plain cartridge slot extender. The board seems awfully simple and unpopulated, the LED being the most sophisticated thing you can see on it.
I've opened the Famicom up and when I try to take the motherboard out The end with the cartridge slot refuses to come out so this TURBO device is stopping it in some way . ??? I doubt it will really impede anything though XD it just looks ugly. :P
Do you have any game cartridges to test your Famicom? You can use a Sega Genesis Model 1 or a TurboGrafx16 power adapter to power up the Famicom (or any power supply with a 9V DC center negative output).
No, I don't have a single game, I almost got one or 2 at the flea market but I didn't i'll try the thrift store or the flea market for some next week. :P
I don't know if this is completely famicom related. I have a clone which worked fine until today. I took it downstairs, unplugged the av cords, and tried to play, and now the audio is a loud buzzing noise over the regular audio. Is there something wrong? I already tried new av cords.
Does the clone have a microphone? If so, fiddle with the volume slider (or, better yet, take apart the controller and clean the volume slider contacts) and see if makes a difference.
Nope. No microphone. I am thinking some contact is loose inside.
Does anyone have any ideas. It was when I moved it from the tv upstairs, to the downstairs one. I unplugged the av cords, plugged back in, and an annoying buzz is behind most games.
Does it happen on both TVs now? If it only happens on the downstairs TV, that one could have ground loop issues. Most of the time buzzing audio from a Famicom means that the AC adapter is going bad.
Really? Ac adapter? Well, it does happen on both tvs now. I guess i'll try swapping the ac adapter. Thanks.
EDIT: I didn't work even with a genesis adapter either. :-\
Loose solder joints on the RF modulator board, or a dried up main filter capacitor. Clones aren't notorious for great hardware design. ::)
So there's no real easy fix? I am an idiot when it comes to a soldering iron. :P
Unfortunately not. OTOH reflowing cold solder joints and replacing large electrolytic capacitors is easy with basic soldering skills. :)
One last weird fact. When you unplug the audio, the video goes away too. Is this supposed to happen?
No. This means that the solder points for the RCA jacks are loose or the jacks themselves are really old/dirty, because the ground connection on the Video jack isn't making proper contact.
Is there a quick fix to that either? Should I just clean the jacks, then check if the're loose on the inside or not?
Yes indeed. Clean them with a mildly abrasive sponge if they're not shiny, scrape the inside connection with a small screwdriver or similar pointy object and if you find that their internal solder points have loosened, just apply some fresh solder on them and that's it. ;)
In fact resolder them even if they seem fine to the naked eye, bad soldering can develop hairline cracks.
Ah it didn't work. Now the front's side is loose!! Bah, I'm just giving up on this thing. Tis a shame I got it for christmas.
Quote from: cubelmariomadness on December 30, 2009, 11:07:25 am
Ah it didn't work. Now the front's side is loose!! Bah, I'm just giving up on this thing. Tis a shame I got it for christmas.
Which FC clone is it, have a pic?...
...
When I first got my famicom a few years back I didn't know you couldn't use a American power supply so I tried to use one. My question is, is my FC fried inside now? Also, if not, where can I buy the correct power cable? Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
If it doesn't work anymore, yes, your Famicom is fried. But bringing it back to life could be as easy as replacing the main filter capacitor and the voltage regulator on the RF modulator board. With basic to intermediate soldering skills and the right components you can do this yourself.
As for the correct power supply, you could get an original Famicom or Super Famicom AC adapter online, but if you can't get one of those you can always use a Sega Genesis Model 1 or a TurboGrafx16 AC adapter, those are perfectly compatible.
Don't just assume your Famicom is dead if you've never tried it with a proper AC adapter. You might have been lucky and didn't damage it.
Thanks for your encouraging word. I'm on the hunt for a power cord now. If it is fried, I hate to say it but my soldering skills leave much to be desired so I might be on the hunt for a new famicom, after I try the correct power cable. Thanks again.
Quote from: 133MHz on January 13, 2010, 10:09:28 pm
If it doesn't work anymore, yes, your Famicom is fried. But bringing it back to life could be as easy as replacing the main filter capacitor and the voltage regulator on the RF modulator board. With basic to intermediate soldering skills and the right components you can do this yourself.
As for the correct power supply, you could get an original Famicom or Super Famicom AC adapter online, but if you can't get one of those you can always use a Sega Genesis Model 1 or a TurboGrafx16 AC adapter, those are perfectly compatible.
Don't just assume your Famicom is dead if you've never tried it with a proper AC adapter. You might have been lucky and didn't damage it.
I ended up finding the correct power adapter while I was looking for my cell phone charger. It was in a box full of clones. I'm mad that I had it this whole time and didn't realize it.
I plugged it in and my famicom played perfect. Needless to say I'm excited.
I'm glad that you found the AC adapter and that it was fine at the end. :D
Thanks.
But I must ask for help once again. So I got my Famicom up and running but I am having the hardest time getting the games to play with out the video going crazy. I've cleaned all my games and I used an old NES cleaning kit I got to try to clean the pins inside the system. Which I did get a lot of dirt out, so I thought, "great my games are going to play perfect now." But I was sadley mistaken.
It's almost impossible for me to get a game to play with out a few of the pixel being off/messed up. Then if I even tug on the controller ever so slightly or I jar the FC just a tiny bit I completely loose the picture. I have to fiddle with the games before I can even get it going. I mostly get a solid gray screen. All these headache brings be back to the old toaster days.
I'm assuming the problem lies in the pin connector. Is there a good way to clean them? I've replaced several pin connectors on NES, do I need to replace the pins? Is that even possible, I haven't had a FC open much? What should I try? ???
Any help would be much appreciated.
Yeah you probably need to clean your pin connector even more. I use an old toothbrush dipped in rubbing alcohol to really clean the connector inside out. Also make a visual inspection under a bright light to check that all of the pins are correctly aligned and that there's no dirt and crap stuck between them.
I use ultra fine sand paper, and it works like a charm. I would not suggest it though, because it wears off the rust protection. It has a 100% success rate, but you'd better not get those contacts wet.
Ok thanks for you guys suggestion. I'll work on it today and see how it goes.
I got a cool Playstation3-looking NOAC famiclone. Some wires were pulled out during shipping. Then when my friend tried re-soldering it the red and black power cables pulled out. I don't know where to put them back in. If I posted some pics, would someone know how to help? (Also, its a PAL system I believe if that makes a difference)
Hey guys, need help with my new Sharp Famicom Twin:
So it was working fine until I took it to a friend's apartment, but I get there, put in a disk game, and I keep getting error 27. I thought the belt might've gotten loose or become mis-aligned, so we unscrewed it, popped it open, but everything looked fine inside. So we screwed it back up, tried it out, now I'm getting error 22. What should I do? Any suggestions to get it working again? It has a new belt so I don't think that's the problem. Any pointers?
Try cleaning the read/write head with a q-tip & isopropyl alcohol.
Okay I'll try that. I left it at my friend's place but I called him and told him to try that, we'll see how it works, thanks.
Hello from Sweden :)
Is it normal that the upper part screen vibrates when using an AV Famicom? I'm using the original composite and powersupply cables with a step-down converter, this one to be exact:
(http://www.pici.se/pictures/PGJOKcIiP.jpg)
If this is not a common problem i will make my own thread with more info and pictures.
Thanks!
Ok, but my Genesis and US SNES does not do this. Maybe because those are connected with RGB cables? Forgot to mention that my tv is a LCD with NTSC support.
If i use one of those NTSC - PAL converters, will it make the game run in 50hz?
A while back, I was acting stupid and accidentally had my Twin Famicom's power supply cranked up way too high so something inside blew up. I haven't really looked into the problem yet but I was wondering it's still fixable? Has anyone have this happen and managed to save his Twin Fami?
It was probably your voltage regulator and filter capacitor that blew up. I blew these up in a clone using an incorrect ac adaptor, but it was easily fixable by soldering in new parts. Open it up and take a look. If you can't figure it out, post some pics of the power supply board and we'll help you figure it out.
Quote from: ericj on March 11, 2010, 11:42:37 am
It was probably your voltage regulator and filter capacitor that blew up. I blew these up in a clone using an incorrect ac adaptor, but it was easily fixable by soldering in new parts. Open it up and take a look. If you can't figure it out, post some pics of the power supply board and we'll help you figure it out.
Thanks, maybe from a photo you'd be able to tell me what parts I need and where to get them? I think I could handle the soldering job.
Sure, go ahead & post the pics. What country are you located in, France?
Why would you think that? Is my english that broken? :D Anyway, here's a pic. The only damage I can see is the split capacitor.
http://img390.imageshack.us/img390/2078/img0422i.jpg
Oh, I saw your email address and thought it was .fr; I now see it's .fi. Oops! :P
Well, the cap definitely needs replaced. I can't tell what it says on the side, but get one with the same microfarad. Voltage doesn't matter too much; the 16V type are harder to find than a 25 volt, but that's in the US. Your voltage regulator probably needs replaced, too. It should be a 7805, but look to make sure. I'm not sure if there are any fuses in a Twin. Have a look for any scorched marks on the board.
Anyone know where in Finland these parts can be purchased? I assume you don't have a Radio Shack there?
I can order online if you know a good place. I'd have to look around, I have no idea where to get this kind of stuff around here. I guess this cap is 16V and 2200 microfarads? Where's the voltage regulator on the PCB? What do I ask for at the store if I'm able to find one?
That sounds right for the cap. Voltage isn't too important, but should be around 16V or as close as you can get. The voltage regulator should be screwed into the metal heat shield. It has 3 solder points on it that connect to the pcb. You would ask for a voltage regulator along with the number on it. Or desolder them and take them with you.
If you google the part numbers you want, you can find electronics stores online. I'm sure there are some in Finland.
Thanks a lot, you've been a lot of help! I'll report back on how it goes.
Hello all!
I got an FDS and a belt. I installed the belt and have been trying to get my disks to work. I've been messing around with the motor + head screw and, while most positions give me error # 22, I found a position that gives me # 21 and sometimes a black screen and then # 27.
What I was wondering about was the so called "spindle" adjustment... I guess this was documented on http://jfgoods.net/disksystem.html and was the "most important step," but now the site is down... I have no idea what they're talking about as a result... so if anyone has pictures or something that would be great!
I followed the guide on this auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/Nintendo-FAMICOM-Disk-System-FDS-1-new-belt-Rare_W0QQitemZ260559618318QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3caa90410e
Out of luck, I did get it to read Hot Rally once, but never again so its for sure the drive.
Adjusting the head screw should have been your last resort after the motor speed adjustment. It's super easy to screw up the head alignment, and, even if you do get it working, there's no guarantee that you'll be able to read most disks.
Check the felt pad under the plastic arm that rides on the top of the disk. It should be soft and not worn too badly (this will give you error 27 sometimes). You can replace it with one from an old cassette player or something similar if you have to. Also clean the head with isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip.
If these don't work, you're probably dealing with a head alignment & motor speed issue. All you need to get it working from that is patience and trying & retrying it. Good luck!
Edit: Also check to make sure you put it all back together correctly and the connectors and wires soldered on the board aren't loose.
It's kind of strange. Along with the belt, I bought some bootleg graphic editor from Tototek and when I put that in, it goes to a special loading screen that says the name of the program, but the drive head seems to just cycle in an infinite loop. That means it must be reading the header but getting out of sync later on?
Also, could it be that metal plate that moves the head? It seems to think its default position is 3/4 way up the slope.
EDIT: but now after I put some screws on...that screen doesnt show anymore with the bootleg but I get a constant black screen with Hot Rally followed by #27
EDIT 2: After some thinking time...it hit me! since the spindle is in sync with the head, doesn't that pin on the spindle have to be positioned in a special position so the head lines up with the data? I don't know how it supposed to be lined up though...does anyone have any pictures?
(sorry to double post)
I GOT IT! ^_^
Anyways, I feel that a lot of what you guys have been saying is misleading. Although proper speed is quite important, that's not whats REALLY important. Rather its the spindle position relative to the head position.
Since every disk is written in a predetermined spiral and is not designed to be randomly accessed like a normal floppy drive, the head must follow the "groove" of the spiral. When you replace the belt, you remove the triangle on the back that holds the head and spindle, which typically work in unison. As such, the head and spindle are set loose from each other.
The spindle has a small pin on it that spins the disk. What I did was, before I put the triangle back on, I turned the pin so it was facing straight towards the head. Then, I pushed the head all the way forward and moved the metal plate so it lays on the middle ledge (in between the high and low point). Then I put the triangle back on, plugged it in, and it worked with every disk I threw at it.
Many people have problems with some games working and others not. The reason for this is that as the disk spins, the head slowly falls out of position as it gets towards the center unless the pin and head are aligned properly. Therefore, games with more data have more problems since the head has to read further towards the center. So you guys will have to do this. Many of the guides on youtube and online miss this point.
Just for fun, I messed with the motor speed and it still read perfectly except at the extremely fast and slow speeds.
Right, but properly replacing the belt also means aligning the spindle hole with the screw when you put it back on. I assumed you had done this and were still having problems. After re-reading your initial post, I see you were confused as to what the spindle adjustment meant. Either way, glad you got it working.
Actually, I did not remove the spindle (if you are referring to the metal spindle that has the pin on it). I guess a few guides say to, but I didn't use them...
I need help with my famicom disk system when i put in my disk it stays on the disk loading screen what is wrong with my FDS?
Probably a broken belt. This should go under the Technical & Repair Assistance thread.
no the belt i got is a new belt i took out the old one
You probably didn't correctly adjust the head. If you don't know how, I believe there's a guide on FW, as well as many others across a Google search.
When ever i put a disk inside it the little scanner thing moves up and down one time then gets stuck in one place
what kind of famicom is this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160418377235&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT#ht_500wt_975
Hello everyone.
I hope I can clarify all my problems without confusing anyone, but here goes:
1: I've had an FDS for about a year now, and have continued to have no luck in getting it to run. It used to go as far as the copyright screen, and then go to black and do nothing.
2: The other day, I got the impulse to hook it up and try again. Now it dosen't even give me the copyright screen. I have three disks. Metroid gives me Err. 27, and Tarot Uranai and Zelda 1 give me Err. 22.
3: I do not have a legit Famicom to run it on, I am instead using a Generation NEX. (Also, I've never been given a straight answer as to if the NEX is even compatible with the FDS.)
I suppose my primary question is, how do I fix it, or is it even worth it, and I should just try to find a new one?
Thanks for assistance!
It Might Be The Belt Or Something Is Stuck under the spundle
No luck, brand new belt, and the spindle is clean as a whistle. I still get 27s and 22s, but Tarot Uranai did boot up to the copyright screen once. Any other ideas?
You could adjust the motor speed, but first check the felt pad that rides along the top of the disk surface to make sure it's still soft and somewhat thick.
I'm not sure if a FDS will work okay on your G. NEX or not. It's weird that it goes to a black screen. I think that may happen if it's not getting the 5V from your G. NEX via the ram adapter.
Quote from: Marlon on March 31, 2010, 12:18:05 pm
It Might Be The Belt Or Something Is Stuck under the spundle
It's SPINDLE and have a look at the word "spundle" on Urban Dictionary. :D
It looks like the felt pad is good, so how do I adjust the speed?
Post Merge: April 01, 2010, 04:58:56 am
It looks like someone hacked the forum! A whole bunch of text got replaced with other text, look around the comments for examples!
Anyone have a schematic for a NES Four Score? Or maybe you could just ID the 7 wires that plug into the PCB from the cable? I figured I'd ask before busting out the multimeter. Thanks!
Edit: Has anyone tried a Four Score with a NES Zapper & does it work? I 'm looking at the PCB, but it doesn't look like D3 & D4 are connected to anything. There certainly aren't wires coming from NES Connector 2 to the PCB. For my Famicom connector, should I wire DB15s pin #s 3 & 4 directly to the Four Score's D3& D4 Connector for NES ports 2-4?
Quote from: ericj on April 08, 2010, 04:16:11 pmFor my Famicom connector, should I wire DB15s pin #s 3 & 4 directly to the Four Score's D3& D4 Connector for NES ports 2-4?
Correct. By the way, the Famicom uses a completely different way of interfacing four players. The NES Four Score multiplexes all the controllers' data into one port (or two?), while the Famicom's EXT port contains provisions for reading two extra controllers directly. Japanese Famicom games will try to read the controllers directly from the expansion port, while American NES games will look for a Four Score adapter and try to communicate with it instead, so you have to make up your mind on what kind of compatibility do you want to accomplish.
Recommended reading:
Famicom Four Player Adapters (http://www.rahga.com/ffpa/)
Good to know. I'll have to read this over & figure out how I want it to work. Thanks! :)
I really could do with some advice im running out of ideas.
By the way i live in the UK.
Alright i bought a famicom with the standard RF out,i then discovered that it probably wasnt going to work through rf because of the whole ntsc/pal thing,so i ordered a famicom that has already been modded with av outputs.
Now i cant get this one to work either,i can get sound but no picture whatsoever,ive tried it on 3 tvs and my monitor with no luck.
I took it apart and cant see anything wrong with it,no broken solder joints,caps are ok,no connections touching.It looks like the mod was done a long time ago but everything seems fine.
Im at a loss i dont know if the video is broken or its another tv issue but i have other jap systems that work fine on my tv.
First, check the 60-pin slot to see if 5V is going to it. If not, check the voltage regulator. If that's okay, check the fuse on the power board. If there's no continuity through it, bypass it by soldering in a small wire.
EDIT: Sorry, mis-read it the first time. I thought you didn't have sound. Good luck! :)
Quote from: ericj on April 09, 2010, 11:45:03 am
First, check the 60-pin slot to see if 5V is going to it. If not, check the voltage regulator. If that's okay, check the fuse on the power board. If there's no continuity through it, bypass it by soldering in a small wire.
Are you replying to my message? well i have sound so i know its playing the game fine i just got no video :(
Check continuity across the video cable with a multimeter. If it's old, it could be frayed or broken internally.
Quote from: 133MHz on April 09, 2010, 11:56:25 am
Check continuity across the video cable with a multimeter. If it's old, it could be frayed or broken internally.
You mean the actual cable? well it has 3 cables (yellow,red,white) ive tried all 3 with no luck.
Are you sure their is no issue with it being a uk tv or something?
You should at least get some sort of rolling, black & white picture or a very dim, distorted picture.
I mean that the yellow cable could be open or shorted internally, especially at the ends that it flexes the most. If you don't have a multimeter, try tapping video directly from the motherboard by touching the appropriate solder point with the tip of an RCA cable plugged into the video input of your TV, with the audio cable from the Famicom plugged in into that same TV to provide proper ground reference (since we already know that the audio works). This should rule out the cable itself as a culprit.
Quote from: 133MHz on April 09, 2010, 12:06:33 pm
You should at least get some sort of rolling, black & white picture or a very dim, distorted picture.
I mean that the yellow cable could be open or shorted internally, especially at the ends that it flexes the most. If you don't have a multimeter, try tapping video directly from the motherboard by touching the appropriate solder point with the tip of an RCA cable plugged into the video input of your TV, with the audio cable from the Famicom plugged in into that same TV to provide proper ground reference (since we already know that the audio works). This should rule out the cable itself as a culprit.
Thanks dude,you know what it was after all that? the dam cables lol,after touching the motherboard with the cable and getting nothing i realized it has to be the cables so tried some different ones and worked perfectly.
Ive never known rca cables to be 100% dead especially all 3,one with giving audio but when i tried that in the video it was dead.
Thanks again :)
Quote from: 133MHz on April 08, 2010, 08:33:45 pm
Correct. By the way, the Famicom uses a completely different way of interfacing four players. The NES Four Score multiplexes all the controllers' data into one port (or two?), while the Famicom's EXT port contains provisions for reading two extra controllers directly. Japanese Famicom games will try to read the controllers directly from the expansion port, while American NES games will look for a Four Score adapter and try to communicate with it instead, so you have to make up your mind on what kind of compatibility do you want to accomplish.
From what I read, I think the best way to go about this for 4-player functionality is to let the ground, latch, & +5v lines hooked up to the original spots on the PCB, wire up D3 & D4 to controller ports 2-4 directly, and wire the Clock and Data lines up directly to each port and cut the PCB traces.
The Four Score has an internal chip that all lines run through (don't have it on me now to take a look what it is exactly), do you think it will still work okay with the Clock & Data lines bypassing it? I assume the turbo function won't work this way.
Also, do you think I can let the Data & Clock lines run through the chip, but just cut the traces on ports 3 & 4 and piggyback them off ports 1 & 2?
Quote from: ericj on April 09, 2010, 12:36:34 pm
Also, do you think I can let the Data & Clock lines run through the chip, but just cut the traces on ports 3 & 4 and piggyback them off ports 1 & 2?
Not a good idea. The Four Score IC responds with a unique digital signature when probed by the system, leaving it connected will mess up things for ya.
You can leave it powered up if you wish, but don't connect any of the data lines to it.
I just took apart my FDS that didn't load games and found a replacement belt made from electrical tape ???
Are the ones from tototek good?
Hi everyone, I just recently found out about this forum while searching for a famicom AV mod guide. (and I must say, I really like the theme and layout!)
Yet I can not find it in the workshop section. I found a guide on another site in japanese, but that's for a diffirent model than my (1989) famicom. Is there anyone here that knows a guide for this particular model?
Much obliged!
Quote from: empo on April 13, 2010, 02:01:14 pm
I just took apart my FDS that didn't load games and found a replacement belt made from electrical tape ???
Are the ones from tototek good?
I actually fixed two of them with $0.50 washers from Ace Hardware.
A friend of mine won this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/AV-Famicom-Controllers-Hookups-3-Games-glitchy_W0QQitemZ150431682568QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item23066d5008
Hasn't come in yet, but what would be people's preliminary diagnosis?
On another note, I now have a spare copy of Akumajo Densetsu to sell soon.
If I plug a power strip into my step down transformer (120v to 100v), would all of the ports on the power strip effectively be 100v or does it not work that way?
Exactly as you said. :)
Quote from: 133MHz on April 15, 2010, 06:02:16 pm
Exactly as you said. :)
Quotewould all of the ports on the power strip effectively be 100v or does it not work that way?
He said two things, which is it?
They'd all be 100V. The power strip itself would have no way of increasing voltage.
Okay, that's what I figured but I wanted to make sure. Thanks.
Yeah, it hasn't come in yet, just taking suggestions for when I help him power it up.
It might just be dirty, as he suggests.
If it works fine until it's on for a while, it's probably a heat-related problem. You may want to check the boards for cold solder joints and re-flow any that seem suspect, and check the filter caps & voltage regulator to see if they need replaced.
Quote from: ericj on April 15, 2010, 10:08:05 pm
If it works fine until it's on for a while, it's probably a heat-related problem. You may want to check the boards for cold solder joints and re-flow any that seem suspect, and check the filter caps & voltage regulator to see if they need replaced.
Yeah, we're going to have a good look when it comes in. Fortunately, I have the tools to open up the console safely. We'll probably do the zapper mod while we're in there too.
I got my replacement belt today and after some tuning on the spindle it works!
My only problem is that I usually get err 27 a couple of times before Zelda/Metroid loads, is this something more fine tuning could fix?
Thanks it's almost working flawlessly now
I have New-Old-Stock AC adapters fort he Famicom, Super Famicom and FDS that are for USA 110-120V power sources available...These won'; toverheat and don't need a step down transformer.
Ifi interested, PM me.
-Xious
-Xioud
Quote from: super56k on October 09, 2006, 06:56:58 pm
Welcome Nickv,
Your problem may very well arise from the broadcasting signal. The Famicom broadcasts on channels 96 and 97 on a US TV set. for it's settings of "ch01" and "ch02" respectively. Try those channels on your TV.
An NES RF adapter works fine, but an NES AC adapter would fry a Famicom due to the fact that the NES AC adapter outputs AC and not DC, which is what the Famicom requires. I use the "HVC-002" official AC adapter on my Famicom, and it still runs a little hot.
This is a pic of my adapter:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v498/8-bitcultmember/Random/FAMIDAPT.jpg)
It would be best to use this adapter in conjunction with a step down converter such as one of these:
http://www.voltage-converter-transformers.com/japanese-up-down-transformers.html
The "VT200J - Japanese Up/Down Transformer" that they sell for $24.99 , should work fine.
I am considering buying one myself.
I hope that this helps you out.
Hi Folks,
I have a FDS that i've been trying to get fixed for a while now. Changed the belt, replaced the felt pressure pad, oiled everything that slides. Now here's the kicker: Every disk I try will give a error 27, yet, if i put just the slightest pressure on the disk with a small screw driver, it will load everything I throw at it. Any ideas? Haven't touched the head alignment yet. is it possible the felt pad i put on is adding too much pressure? it is a little thicker than the factory model.
Thanks!
Probably a stupid question, but have you cleaned the head?
Otherwise, it's probably because the felt pad isn't putting enough pressure on the disk, if I'm reading your post correctly. If you have to push down on the disk for it to read, then the head probably isn't contacting the disk surface well enough. Could be that the spring on the pressure arm isn't strong enough, too.
You may want to check that the head screw on the spindle is in the correct spot, since that will affect alignment of the disk surface to the read head.
I have received an FDS along with a game called Exciting Soccer
I am using a opened NES Toaster for the FDS to fit in.
Everything is ok until the game start, the game flicker terribly and glitch alot. I have checked up an video about the game and in the game , the game was not glitching.
I thought it was my converter, but it work without any problem with my Famicom Cartridge
Do you think the problem might have to do with the Famicom Disk System itself or the Disk that is starting to demagnetise?
Thanks you
I have received an FDS along with a game called Exciting Soccer
I am using a opened NES Toaster for the FDS to fit in.
Everything is ok until the game start, the game flicker terribly and glitch alot. I have checked up an video about the game and in the game , the game was not glitching.
I thought it was my converter, but it work without any problem with my Famicom Cartridge
Do you think the problem might have to do with the Famicom Disk System itself or the Disk that is starting to demagnetise? (this is my only disk, I do not have any other)
Thanks you
Well the disk system doesn't usually like the toaster. When you've got the bulky RAM adapter attatched to a wobbly converter into a ZIF socket, you'll probably get some glitches. :D I'm afraid the easiest way is to get something that loads games on top of the console instead of on the front.
Thanks for the info. Do you think that using a Famiclone (Like the YOBO FC Console or Yobo 2 in 1) will recude glitched effects?
You'd be better off using a real Famicom. Clones typically don't work very well or steadily supply the necessary 5 volts to the ram adapter.
Alright guys what do you think of this motherboard? is it a knock off? because the ones ive seen dont look like this.
http://img132.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=dscf0800.jpg
The strange thing is it says konami with the old logo,as if they manufactured the board O_o the actual famicom itself is exactly the same as a normal one so if its a fake then its a dam good one.
Second i have a problem i need your help.its AV modded ( a long time ago by the look of it),i got audio but no video.
I couldnt see anything wrong with the board,but i ended up snapping a leg off a transistor that they soldered in,so i will have to replace the modded section anyway.
Gonna order some soldering stuff soon to repair it but i wanted your input on the board and the mod.
Quote from: amurphy245 on May 04, 2010, 03:03:33 pm
Alright guys what do you think of this motherboard? is it a knock off? because the ones ive seen dont look like this.
It appears to be a clone and more then likely is. Many clones have standard AV already, and closely resemble real famicoms even the boards.
Well someone has clearly modified the existing board for AV outputs,and the konami symbol is confusing :/
I'm almost 100% sure it's a clone. Do you have any pics of the casing?
Edit: It could be a clone in an official casing, too.
Il take some tommorow,its yellowed but i have an authentic famicom to compare and i cant see any difference it looks real.
So,
I bought a broken unit, modded the I/O and replaced the belt. Now the drive takes my copied games but no Nintendo originals, I either get error 22 or the slightly more exotic error 21.
Has anyone experience this before? I would have though the nintendodisks to be easier to read...
Any help is greatly appreciated.
// Peter
I replaced the belt on my FDS today. It came with a broken belt, but I didn't know that until I tried to play a game on it and heard the motor start whirring at full speed, with no result.
Now that I've replaced the belt, it won't power on! When I put a disk in, the light doesn't turn on or anything! What have I done?
Are you sure you didn't break a wire or maybe it overheated.
No wires were damaged at all... although I did accidentally hit that little switch in the back of the disk drive (to the left of the motor) and it went forward... is that bad?
EDIT: oh my god, I just realized what an idiot I am... I forgot to reattach that cable into the back of the disk drive.
*facepalm*
hehe, I did the same thing last night. Just didn't want to admit it ^__^
So, now I've cleaned the head and still no result. Games that are only on one side works fine but 2 side disks get error 22.
Pretty f'ing strange. The belt is kinda loose and not as snug as in the videos....
So a friend of mine got an AV Famicom where the picture goes after about five minutes of play (graphics glitch up). AC Adapter is good and it's been run through a stepdown converter so that's not the issue.
Our next step is to get a multimeter and test all of the resistors and capacitors. By visual inspection, everything looks like it's in great shape and nothing smells funny when it's powered on.
We do suspect that the PPU may be going. Fortunately we do have an NES with a pretty much gone 72 pin connector that may serve as the donor.
Other than our next steps, any suggestions?
Try replacing the voltage regulator first. Since it takes awhile before it glitches, it's probably heat-related. It probably wouldn't hurt to re-flow the solder anywhere it looks suspect on the pcb. Maybe try another AC adapter just to rule it out for certain.
Quote from: ericj on May 16, 2010, 07:23:44 pm
Try replacing the voltage regulator first. Since it takes awhile before it glitches, it's probably heat-related. It probably wouldn't hurt to re-flow the solder anywhere it looks suspect on the pcb. Maybe try another AC adapter just to rule it out for certain.
We definitely tried another AC Adapter. We'll have a look at the voltage regulator when we check all the other capacitors and resistors with a multimeter. Solder points look good though.
Probably going to do the zapper mod while we're in there.
You won't be able to tell if the caps are good with a multimeter alone. Just like ericj said before your problem is most likely temperature dependent, you need a quick way to heat and freeze up electronic components while the console is operating in order to pinpoint the temp. flaky component. A small hair dryer and a can of compressed air works wonders for this, proceed by selectively and repeatedly heating and freezing every capacitor and chip on the board until you can reliably make the glitching appear and disappear. Small capacitors are the most likely culprits (they seem to like to fail in this fashion), but it could also be flaky Video RAM or PPU.
Hello there. I have a problem and I'm hoping I can get some help.
Bought a FDS and Famicom AV (the real kind). Knew when I was buying the FDS that it needed a belt. Disassembled it, replaced the belt and cleaned out gunk from the old dead belt. Drive spins up properly now, but won't load anything, doesn't even leave the "Now Loading" screen. Tried every disk I have, nada. Have been tinkering with the speed adjuster on the motor, but still nothing. What should I try next?
Try adjusting the spindle (ring part that spins the disk) in small increments, ~5 degrees, and re-test. Do this until it can read all your disks. When you take apart the disk system's drive gears and put it back together, it will probably 99% of the time be off from where it was originally.
Don't worry about aligning the screw with the indentation in the post, as that most likely won't be the correct spot for your system to read your disks.
The belt does turn, I visually confirmed this. As for the other ideas... sorry for sounding noobish, but where might I find instructions on how to do what you suggest? The only information I've been able to track down was for the belt replacement.
[UPDATE: Figured it out, I connected pins 24 and 16 but forgot to solder 16 to its hole. Works perfect and now I'm just waiting for the superglue to dry on the cart since I broke a clip opening it]
I had a question for those with repor/translation cart experience, I just completed my first repro cart, I took a famicom "Mother" cart and followed instructions on nintendo age to replace the rom chips with the eproms I had bought from gamereproductions. The game boots up just fine and will get all the way to the first battle with the lamp and then restart. it also will restart if you hold A or select prior to the first battle or attempt to do anything other than walk around the house.
Does anyone have any suggestions what might be causing this?
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4032/4651404069_ac47334bec_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4040/4651357361_4eb78618e3.jpg)
Right what do you guys think of this one,try to follow me as it gets confusing.
I bought a twin famicom which came provided with an unofficial power adapter,i played a couple of hours of kirby cartridge then the system just cut out on me,the power LED wasnt coming on so i assumed something blew.However when you first turn it on the LED lights up very faint for a split second.
I checked the power adapter and it gave a consistent 7.6 volts just like it should do.
I opened the twin fami up and eventually discovered that if i fiddled with the connector at the back of the disk drive it would power on+off so i assumed it was the disk drive.
Meanwhile i ordered an untested twin famicom from ebay ,ive just plugged it in to test it and it has exactly the same problem,completely dead with very faint LED showing up.
I took the disk system out of the new twin fami and put it in my original broken one and it fired up,however the LED was still faint.
SInce the belt has snapped on the new disk system i put it back,and put my original disk system into my original twin famicom (just like it was before)
Now for some reason both of them are working perfectly but still no LED's
What the hell is going on o.O im thinking its something to do with the unofficial power adapter
The LED on the Twin doesn't stay lit like a typical system (for instance, the NES). It only flashes on/off and is very faint like you described. I have no idea why, but that seems to be how it works. Mine does the exact same thing, but it works perfectly. Until I read this, I forgot that I had noticed it before.
Im pretty sure before i had problems the LED was permanently lit up shining brightly,you have to really strain your eyes to see it now so something has definitely gone wrong,maybe its a common problem.
If it bothers you, try replacing the LED. LEDs will slowly get dimmer as they age. Try checking the voltage and resistor value to yours, too, to rule that out.
I'll probably take a look into this when the disk drive belt in mine breaks, but until then, I plan on leaving mine intact.
After some further testing i realized how it works,basically the LED only comes on when your loading a disk,thats it.
By the way the LED is a funny shape so your gonna struggle finding a replacement since it needs to slot into a small hole.
So yeah everything seems to be fine but ive turned 2 dead systems into 2 working ones without even doing anything so i have no idea why they wouldnt work in the first place,im going to order an official adapter to rule that out.
Which model(s) do you have? I have the AN-500R.
BTW, the official ac adapter won't make any difference. As long as yours is outputting the correct voltage/mA, it should make the system function correctly. The official version will actually output something slightly different than spec since it's based off 100V. It's regulated to 5V inside anyways due to the 7805 voltage regulator. This is where you should check your voltage.
500r (red)
500b (black)
I dont want to trust any kind of dodgy chinese power adapter,im gonna get the official one and see how things go,i need one anyway considering my new twin fami doesn't have one.
Considering both had the same problem and now they are both working perfectly im thinking its the adapter.
Post Merge: June 01, 2010, 09:09:29 am
Alright i got another problem lol,this is strange.
All my disk system games work perfectly,but when i load zelda 1 up (i never played this copy before but its brand new) the title screen rolls but no matter what buttons i press i cant get to the name screen.
Also on the title screen it doesnt say "press start button" it says something in japanese the game appears to be running fine with no glitches i just cant progress after the title screen.
What on earth is this about,its like my controller is disabled,by the way its the same on both my famicoms.
Quote from: amurphy245 on June 01, 2010, 08:56:49 am
What on earth is this about,its like my controller is disabled,by the way its the same on both my famicoms.
Try flipping the disk to side B once you're at the title screen.
LOL thanks for that,i couldn't read the japanese >_>
Can someone walk me through what I need to do to get my Genesis Model 1 power supply compatible with my Sharp Twin Famicom? I know I need to reverse the polarity, but I can't find instructions anywhere on how to do that. Any help will be appreciated.
Cut the wire and reconnect them reversing how they were originally connected. Or, open up the casing on the adapter & reverse where the wires are soldered. Pretty simple change.
Thanks, I'll get right on that.
Post Merge: June 01, 2010, 04:47:27 pm
Okay I did it, but now I've got a new problem. It won't fit in the system. Thought the thing had the same size plug jack as the regular Famicom. Apparently not. This is damn frustrating.
i burned my ac adaptor for my twin famicom in russia (i can't beleive how stupid i was, i got used to plugging it without checking in america >:( ) Anyone know where i can find a replacement? will using a 9v ac adaptor (not NES) fry my sharp twin fami?
Hey guys. So I finally got my Twin Famicom running and a disk to test it with, and it's giving error 21. I opened it up and checked it out and the belt seems to be in fine shape, but I do have a replacement. I believe this is the original belt in it now. Let me know if you need more information, and thanks in advance for any help!
Try cleaning the drive head really well with rubbing alcohol & a q-tip. Error 21/22 are usually related to that in my experience.
Nice, that sounds pretty easy. Thanks! Should I just go over the whole drive head mechanism or is there a specific part I need to focus on? I'm not very familiar with the pieces of the Disk System.
Just the read head needs cleaned. It's the shiny rectangular metal thing. :P
Well I cleaned it, managed to lose one of the damn springs, and eventually got the horrible thing together again, but now it's giving error 22 whether there's a disk in the system or not.
How did you lose a spring? You don't have to take anything off to clean it, just lift up the pressure arm. ???
Are you sure your disk is good? Is it the sealed Nazo disk you made the video of?
The disk insertion mechanism probably isn't put back together right or one of the switches is stuck. You shouldn't be able to get an error without a disk in the drive.
Yeah, I didn't realize that at first because I'm a moron. The game is the formerly sealed Nazo, yes. I'll take a look at exactly what it does and see what I can see. Where can I find some pictures of the disk system put together properly?
Well, one of the switches was indeed stuck, but when I fixed it it didn't seem to solve the problem. I did notice that in addition to the spring I knew I lost (one of the tiny ones on the side of the black plastic disk cover), there seems to be no partner for the larger spring next to the yellow eject button.
I snapped a few pics of one of my disk drives for you. The drive in the Twin is the same as the standalone units. Hope these help you get it pieced back together correctly. ;)
Let me know if you need to see a different part of the drive.
(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/pingaloquita/FDS1.jpg)
(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/pingaloquita/FDS2.jpg)
(http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj287/pingaloquita/FDS3.jpg)
Thanks! I don't see any differences other than the missing spring (that and your springs are much shinier). I wouldn't think one missing spring would generate that particular error though; it might give some kind of problems but I wouldn't think it would be that. If you wouldn't mind, could you unscrew the front of the disk drive, where you insert the disks, and take a picture of what you see there? I'm curious about the spring that seems to be missing there in mine and wondering if it somehow got out without me noticing... Seems unlikely, but it could have happened. In the meantime I'll see if I can't track down a replacement spring for the side.
UPDATE: I took some photos of the drive to see if they'd be any help.
(http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/4262/20100621stfdiskdrivetop.jpg)
As far as I can tell, the back looks the same as yours.
(http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/1138/20100621stfdiskdrivesid.jpg)
Sorry that it's upside-down. I was wondering if this switch was the problem since I unscrewed it during my confusion, but it seems to be working when the system runs.
(http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/1138/20100621stfdiskdrivesid.jpg)
Bit blurry, sorry. You can see the missing spring that I lost here.
(http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/8669/20100621stfdiskdrivefro.jpg)
Here's the front. As you can see, there seems to be a spring missing on the left, but I'm almost positive it didn't come loose while I was doing anything, and I don't think the system had ever been opened before I got it (if it had, it was either a very long time ago or the opener took extreme care not to disturb the vast quantity of dust, dead bugs, grime etc.).
The last thing I noticed is that my spare belt feels much stronger than the one in the system, I don't know how much that matters.
You're definitely missing a spring inside the drive. It should match the one on the right side. I'll take a pic of the inside of mine when I get home today.
Cool, that's what I suspected, and I wouldn't be surprised if that was causing or contributing to the problem. Would anyone on here have some junk systems I could ask for springs from? Or are there standardized spring sizes and I could just go out and buy these?
I recently bought Batman for FC, official cart and everything.. however turning it on it gives off a pink or blue screen. I've cleaned the cart contacts with an eraser, brasso, and also rubbing alcohol, and the board does not appear to have any broken traces anywhere... any ideas? Sadly I'm suspecting it got killed by static electricity.
I know this is off topic, but does anyone know the "pinout" for famicom controllers? I need to know the ground, clock, strobe, D0, and 5V. I was thinking last night that if I cut the controllers from the very beginning, add a 25 pin D sub connector to the famicom case, then another in a project box and hook the one in the box up to the PCB of the NES satellite's reciever, then add NES male connectors to the famicom controllers and use them on the Satellite's transmitter, I could have wireless controllers! Sorta...
Also, I have an AV mod which I want to move to the project box as well. I only have mono sound now. Is there a way to get stereo, or should I just do dual mono?
You could accomplish the same thing though the 15 pin expansion port with a neo geo cable & it'd be a lot less work, plus you wouldn't have to muck up your system.
But, if you must, controller pins should be fairly easy to figure out if you open up a controller, look at the wire color and where it goes, and find the same wire inside the system. A 25 pin port seems a bit overkill.You could accomplish the same thing with a 15 pin VGA or D-sub cable and still have almost half the pins to spare. Even better would be to use 2 NES ports and save yourself the extra work.
Also, there are wireless famicom controllers that work through the expansion port. I have a pair of them and they work as well as the Satellite and waste just as many batteries.
Sorry, I didn't fully explain my reasoning on this. The 15 pin port won't work with 133mhz's gameboy reset mod on his blog. I need a 25 pin d sub because I want to move other mods in there. Four wires for the AV mod, two for an LED, ten from both P1 and 2 controllers, and six from 133mhz's reset mod. A total of 22 wires. Once those are connected to the project box, I would need to split the GND from the AV mod into four wires, and split the sound into two, which makes 26 wires in the box.
So to recap:
NES satellite's receiver PCB in project box.
Ten famicom controller wires go to the satellite's two ports.
I move the video amp from inside my famicom to the box.
I have a simple power LED inside the box.
133mhz's creation for reset in the box.
Add NES connectors to the end of the famicom controllers.
All I really need to do to the famicom is solder the wires on the board and make a hole for the connector.
QuoteAlso, there are wireless famicom controllers that work through the expansion port. I have a pair of them and they work as well as the Satellite and waste just as many batteries.
But then I can't use the NES zapper, NES controllers, NES max or advantage.
I am also getting An NES to famicom converter, which is my reason to have the NES ports from the satellite's transmitter.
Sorry, but do you know the answer for the pinout? I'm not a pro at this, and I don't want to bother my neighbor (who will help me actually put this together) with a simple question.
Makes sense, but you really only need one ground and one 5V+ supply. That would be less wires than you're stating. You should be able to wire your LED off these, too. I look forward to seeing your final project.
I don't know the pinout, but I believe it's the same as the NES where the controllers plug in on the PCB inside the console, which should be on the web somewhere. I'd look, but most of the sites where it would probably be are blocked here. :( 133MHz probably knows.
I found the Pinout. I was just wondering if the wires in the famicom and the NES would be the same color. They are! I know I only need one 5V+ , did I ever say I needed more? Unless the LED or the reset mod needs more... And couldn't I just "daisy-chain" the ground to all of the places that need it? Also, there's another blue wire coming from the P1 controller. Do you know what it is for? I'll worry about the D2 & 3 when it comes time. Should I hack off the controller ports on the satellite's receiver, or should I solder the wire directly into them? Also, if anyone has an NES satellite, could you tell me if it has gamebit screws or regular. Thanks!
EDIT: ericj, I just read that the zapper is compatible with the satellite, I just need to flip some switch...
I think it has the regular game screws
Thanks. Now, overclocking. I can only find one tutorial for an NES. It uses the PR2A03 CPU just like the famicom. Do I just follow it exactly, removing the trace on pin 29? http://kyorune.com/modding/article.php?id=67 (http://kyorune.com/modding/article.php?id=67) there it is.
Post Merge: June 24, 2010, 06:26:04 pm
OK I revised my plan. Turns out I only need a 15 pin D sub after all. ::)
So from the board, im using:
GND
Clock (player 1 controller)
Strobe (player 1 controller)
Data (player 1 controller)
+5V
Clock (player 2 controller)
Strobe (player 2 controller)
Data (player 2 controller)
VIDEO
SOU
The point in the reset switch that moves back when pressed.
Correct me if anythings wrong.
From there, The GND, +5V, SOU, and clock strobe and data from the p1 controller are all daisy chained. Audio is daisy chained for dual mono.
So from the top.
1. Power switch turns on. LED lights up.
2. game boots. I press a button, which the NES satellite's transmitter sends.
3. The receiver picks it up and sends the code to both the FC board and the reset board to see if I'm hitting A+B+start+select
4. I do so. The system resets.
5. I begin to sit back in awe, then proceed to play a good multicart!
Also, would a regular VGA cable be good to connect the 2 d sub connectors?
Hello. I'm having a problem opening my famicom controllers. One of the screws is completely stripped (rounded pretty much) as seen in this picture (Sorry if the picture quality is not good. I took it with my phone).
(http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss174/McSqueakychu/0625102346.jpg)
I'm trying to find a way to get the screws out without damaging the controller itself, but I don't even know what size the screws are, or what to look for. One option I thought of was to find tweezers that have rubber grips to hold on to the screw and yet are small enough to fit in the opening between the screw's side and the hole itself. If anyone could help me out with this, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
Do you have a Dremel? You could carefully carve a new straight groove on the screw head itself in order to grip it with a flathead screwdriver.
You could drill a small hole in the screw and use an extractor bit to get it out. Or, use a drill bit just as large as the screw head (or at least the diameter of the screw thread) to drill the head off it.
Dremel sounds like a good idea. However, does anyone know what size the screws on the famicom controllers are (or what size of a dremel I'll need)? Thanks for the suggestions.
You could just take one of the other non-stripped screws out of the controller to find out what replacement you could use and what Dremel bit will do the job for you.
I can take out the non-stripped screws and tell the size physically. The problem is that I have no idea how screw sizes are named, or what size mine would be in relations to other screws. I also don't have anything like a dremel, nor do I know of any stores by me that carry them (except for, Home depot, but they don't seen to carry the right size). Perhaps tomorrow I'll check my local Right-Aid pharmacy to see if they have dremels, considering that they carry all kinds of items (including a glasses kit that came with a flathead screwdriver for glasses, which I was able to use to remove most of the screws). Otherwise, I'll need to find some other way of determining the size of the screws so that I can buy the proper size of the dremels online.
I finally managed to get the screws out of the controller, but now I need to find replacement screws for the famicom controllers since the normal ones are unsuitable to be put back in. However, I can't seem to find them anywhere. Would anyone know of an online dealer that sells replacement parts for the original famicom? Also, thanks a lot for the advice that you all have given me. This is a great site! :D
I personally have never compared them and I'm sure you would've thought of this by now if it was a viable option, but have you looked at the screws of an NES controller? If you have any lying around, I'd take a look at those.
Hey i have a new question on my mod. The easiest thing i could do to fit my 15 pin d sub was to break off the current one on the console (yell at me now). According to an article on 1up.com, nes and famicom controllers use 5 of the 7 (nes) and 15 (famicom) pins for their controller ports. Since my mod only requires 10 pins and i already have a gnd and +5v going to my project box, could i just use the data strobe and Clock from the points on the board From the d original d sub and connect those five to another 15 pin d sub connector for use with the famicom light gun, robot, etc.?
Well, I've finally got my famicom system open and the screws replaced, thanks to your advice. It's fantastic.
However, I'm now having problems with my famicom disk system. The system itself works, but it won't load anything. When I put in a disk, it stays on the loading screen forever. I have already tried replacing my belt, cleaning the head, and even adjusting the spindle, just as people said earlier, but with no luck.
It takes about 7 seconds for the disk head to reach the center and then it pulls back; this process repeats itself forever, and I wonder if this is too slow, just in case. If so, is this the screw that I need to adjust to get the correct speed?
http://i573.photobucket.com/albums/ss174/McSqueakychu/0707102246.jpg
Thanks!
To adjust the motor speed, insert a small flat blade screwdriver in the hole on the top of the motor. Adjust it in small increments until it reads faster. Are you getting any errors, or is the loading screen just staying on? The screw you have in the pic is the read head adjustment screw. I'd steer clear of adjusting it. I've never had to adjust it yet. The spindle adjustment is typically where the errors arise from.
The loading screen just stays on. If the spindle is the problem, I'm not entirely sure if this is how it's done, but would I have to unscrew the black, small allen screw holding the nut and spindle in place, turn the spindle until I hear a clicking sound, turn it another quarter of a circle, and then tighten the allen screw again (and then adjust in small increments if it still doesn't work)? That's what I got from some place (maybe here?).
Also, thanks for saving me from making a potentially regrettable move. Luckly, I haven't been able to budge the head adjustment screw yet, so I haven't done any unnecessary changes to it.
There's no need to turn it until it clicks. Just simply loosen the screw, move it a few degrees, re-tighten, and re-test. Do this until it works. Very small increments, many adjustments. Hopefully it will work for you doing this. It's very tedious. :P
Sorry for replying late, but I took your advice. However, after about 5 hours (spanning an entire day), and around 50-60 attempts circling the entire spindle, I still can't get the system past the loading screen. Because I've pretty much given up trying to continue any further, I'm wondering if anyone knows of a repair service that would be able to get the disk system working for me again. I'd gladly pay for it.
Again, sorry if I sound so negative, but there's nothing more heartrending than buying a system perceived by the seller to be in excellent shape for $130 (from Japan nonetheless, so returning the system is out of the question), only to find it DOA (The belt was broke and melted on the motor and bottom part of the spindle, though the seller was nice enough to include a spare. Of course, I managed to replace it). I'll do anything at this point to salvage my investment, even if it means paying a little extra for repairs.
Also. Here's the post that I found on turning the spindle a specific way:
http://digitpress.com/forum/showpost.php?p=364900&postcount=97
Thank you very much for the help so far! I really appreciate it. I just wish I could do more. :'(
More problems >:( I just discovered that on my famicom, whenever I press a button on the D pad, then the B and A button, it'll do the same as the start button in SMB, and reset in the Tengen Ms. Pac man cart. UGH!!! Anyone got any ideas?
Frayed controller cables. Having one or several intermittent connections on the controller signal wires can cause all sorts of weird controller behavior.
Hi everyone,
I just got a Famulator and while it works ok, the image has some terrible stripes.
The Famulator is connected to the TV with its original AV cable, but I tried other ones to discard that problem.
All my other systems (Twin FC, Megadrive, NES) are connected the same way and have a clear image.
Anyone has a suggestion?
Thanks in advance.
Faint, interference-like vertical lines or clearly defined solid colored vertical lines? A picture of the screen would be nice. :)
Here are some pictures... (sorry, taken with a phone but still ok)
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/6182/imag0070cq.jpg
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/7851/imag0071n.jpg
it happens to me too, what kind of tv are you using, when i use a plasma tv that happens, it works best with a crt screen
I'm using a Sony LCD.
Seems stilla bit strange, since Akihabara is full of Famulators connected to LCDs to demo the thing, I never noticed it (ok, the screens are 7" LCDs, but still).
btw, when you use a CRT does it eliminate or just reduce it?
i don't know, ill check as soon as i get to my home in the city
Well I managed to get a CRT TV and it seems that the Famulator still displays those awful vertical lines. The effect is a bit attenuated compared to an LCD TV, but still visible... Anyone else to confirm that this is normal or that I have a problematic famulator?
Thanks!
Hi,
Since I live in Europe, I decided to buy an AV modded Famicom.
Unfortunately the image isn't displayed properly by my TVs:
http://it.tinypic.com/r/dqnksn/3
(don't worry about the black and white image, my other tvs display the colors properly).
I don't know if the system or the TV is the problem.
One thing I should mention is that when I try to play NTSC games on the dreamcast I have the same problems.
Maybe I should buy a PAL booster?
Thanks.
EDIT: Sorry about the bad quality, but I think you should be able to notice the problems.
Could be the pin connector and/or the games if it's not a problem with your TV. Make sure all of your games are clean, as well as the Famicom's pin connector.
I don't know, the image seems like "it's too big", if you see the photo
The other TVs have the same problems, but display the colors correctly.
UPDATE: I cleaned the connector and the games, but it still gives me problems.
Also, every game reacts differently. It doesn't stay like this the whole time. In Excitebike, the menu works fine, but when the demo starts the image becomes like this. Selection A sometimes shows the messed up image, sometimes not. Finally, when I move around the video cable sometimes it actually misadjust the image like in the photo. ???
Post Merge: July 30, 2010, 06:48:51 am
Anyone?
You could go into your display settings and move the picture up maybe?
Also, the av mod could be improperly done.
Maybe that's the case because I also see lines across the screen, even if they are really thin.
EDIT: referring to the av mod being improperly done.
EDIT 2: Yet another update: I tried the console on my HDTV and none of my games have this problem, BUT when I tried Mario 3 (which now I don't have anymore) on the same tv it had the same problems.
Strange, Excitebike works just fine on the tv, I tried every mode.
EDIT 3: Last edit I swear!
I believe I found the culprit. Testing the console again, with other cables, I've reached the conclusion that there is something wrong with the av jacks. I don't know if the problem are the av jacks themselves or it's the connection between the jacks and the board.
I have a 1989 Famicom model (blue/silver connector), with an official Famicom AC adapter. It is hooked up to my TV with the official Nintendo RF adapter. I am very happy with the system and I am enjoying it very much. However, I am having a problem. On certain screens/levels in some games, I hear a static noise in the background, but the video quality looks fine. For example, in Zelda no Densetsu 1 (cart version), the first screen you start on after selecting a file, has a lot of static noise. However, a couple screens later, the noise is gone, and you can hear the game music perfectly. Also, in Akumajou Densetsu, there is a lot of this noise on the title screen, the name entry screen, and in some of the later levels (e.g., Block 7).
I have played my Famicom on an HDTV and an old tube TV, and it happens on both TVs. I have also played NES games and on my Famicom and there is a little static too. What could be causing this? Is this just interference, a bad RF switch, or something else? I hope my Famicom is not damaged. :(
When I get the chance, I will try doing these things to attempt to pinpoint the problem:
1) using an RF plug/adapter and a coaxial cable on my Famicom
2) using my RF adapter with my NES
3) using a brand new RF adapter with both systems
Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, what was the cause? Please let me know what you think and any other suggestions you might have. Thanks!
Have you tried adjusting/moving the microphone volume on controller #2 when this happens to see if that makes it go away?
Yeah, I noticed that the microphone switch does cause noise sometimes. I feel the problem is something else though.
Same problem I have with my power joy.
May also be the filter capacitor is wearing out. When there is extra current draw, it may inject some interference by not smoothing out the current as well, but I'm not sure. You could also try cleaning the cart connector.
Maybe 133MHz has some ideas.
Do you think I would need a step-down transformer?
Sounds like the video signal is interfering with the audio signal inside the system. Depending on the picture content, the kind and amount of noise will vary. In your case it seems that screens with a lot of black content produce the most noise (title and file selection screens). Assuming the RF adapter and the TVs are fine, there are two probable causes for this problem:
- Faulty AC adapter that's putting out an excessively noisy DC output, causing the video modulation stage to go bonkers. Try another Famicom compatible AC adapter and see if the problem goes away (do not use the NES one!)
- Sound carrier frequency drift (also known as Sound IF). The RF modulator mixes the sound with the picture content in a precise point of the broadcast TV channel, this point is adjustable by means of a variable inductor can that can be tweaked with a small, plastic screwdriver. If the sound IF goes out of alignment, you'll get anything ranging from distortion to complete loss of audio. In this case it seems that it has gone a little out of tune, producing interference with the video carrier.
Don't touch the frequency adjustments until you've exhausted every other possibility, or you'll make the problem even worse. To align the sound carrier on your modulator, you'll need a jeweler's screwdriver that's completely made out of plastic. This is a specialized tool for tuning modulators, a metal tool will provide nothing but frustration because these circuits are so sensitive that even putting your hand near them will mess up the alignment.
The alignment needs to be done by ear. Hook up your bare Famicom to the TV, put in a game and set it on a "noisy" screen. Then start tweaking the sound coil on the RF modulator board by rotating the adjustment screw with the plastic bit until the audio comes loud, clear and free of any distortion.
If you provide a clear picture of your bare RF modulator board, I can point out which is the sound carrier adjustment coil. :)
I'm not that good with electronics so I'm going to try anything complicated. If I come across another compatible Famicom adapter, I will try that.
Can anybody confirm if I'm right?
It won't work. The ZVN2106A is a FET (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FET), or Field Effect Transistor, while the 2SC1815 used for the Famicom mod is a bipolar junction transistor.
My FDS works fine for all my disks except VS Excitebike. The title screen, track / disk editing mode, and VS mode all load smoothly, but if I choose the 1-Player "Original Excite" game, the drive fails 85% of the time when attempting to read Side B. At the "Set disk to Side B" prompt, after I insert the proper side, the drive usually tries to read the disk for several seconds, stops, resumes loading, and then crashes a few seconds after- leaving me with a scrambled screen and a sustained chord, a bit like what you hear when your computer freezes while a sound is playing.
On occasion, the game loads without a hitch, and doesn't stop in the middle of loading as it does when it fails. I've also noticed that the drive has begun to fail much more than it used to. What could possibly be the cause of this all?
Could be your drive or disk. Try cleaning the magnetic read head with isopropyl alcohol & see if that helps. Otherwise, your disk could be slightly damaged, dirty, or starting to demagnetize.
The read head was the culprit. Thanks very much! Everything's back in working order... at least, it will be until the belt fails in a year or two...
Yup, a small signal NPN transistor.
Hey guys. Can any one of you recommend me a good website to buy parts at? My local radioshack does not carry the type of capacitor I need and I thought I'd try a site some of you might use.
I usually use Jameco.com for parts. Radio Shack probably has one that will work. Any capacitor with the correct uF rating should be okay; the voltage isn't too important provided it's not too low. What part do you need to buy?
Since my real famicom is yellowed, dirty, cracked, and broken, I'm attempting to fix up my famiclone instead. It's got a bad picture and a loud hum in the audio. I figure first I can try switching out the caps.
(http://i38.tinypic.com/2ywu9hg.jpg)
I'll need to order these parts:
A 16V 1000uF
B 16V 47uF
C 25V 22uF
D 50V 1uF
E 100V 0,47uF
Radio Shack should have those, but they probably won't help out the audio hum. If you still want to try, I'd start with the large 1000uF cap. You can get a 35V one from RS. You should also check the soldering on the audio out for the RCA cable and the audio pin on the cart connector.
If those last two things don't fix the hum, what else could possibly fix it? The hum is the biggest issue.
Perhaps I should just save up for a real famicom instead?
Hi-o. I've recently received a Twin Famicom, but I think the adaptor's wrong--at least it doesn't seem to be the same as others I've read about in the forums. Here's a photo:
(http://i35.tinypic.com/34gn9xz.jpg)
That 9V is too high, right?
I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of a replacement; and ideally one that I could stick straight into my Australian (220-240 volts, AC 50Hz (?)) wall.
That adapter seems to be perfectly fine. It's got the correct polarity for a Twin Famicom (which is the opposite of the original Famicom) and it also works anywhere in the world, accepting an input voltage anywhere from 100 to 240V AC, you just need the right prong adapter to stick it in the wall outlet.
The original Twin Famicom adapter's nameplate rating is 7.5 V DC output, but the extra 1.5 V from your universal adapter will do no harm, since the Twin contains an internal voltage regulator that takes anything from 7 to 24 volts DC and produces a clean, steady 5 volts DC to run the gaming computer.
In other words, don't worry. Just plug it in and enjoy your Twin Famicom. ;)
Thankyou! Now I just have to go out and buy myself a TV, and find my voltage converter thing! I will finally play Otocky!
Post Merge: August 16, 2010, 11:41:24 pm
Sorry, one more power adaptor question (well, there may be another, depending on this one's answer):
The one I have (in the picture above) says the input is AC100-240V; 50/60Hz. Does that mean I don't need a voltage converter? I could just use an adaptor to make it fit my wall socket?
Thankyou. It's working great. So exciting!
Quote from: 133MHz on August 15, 2010, 10:54:10 pm
That adapter seems to be perfectly fine. It's got the correct polarity for a Twin Famicom (which is the opposite of the original Famicom) and it also works anywhere in the world, accepting an input voltage anywhere from 100 to 240V AC, you just need the right prong adapter to stick it in the wall outlet.
The original Twin Famicom adapter's nameplate rating is 7.5 V DC output, but the extra 1.5 V from your universal adapter will do no harm, since the Twin contains an internal voltage regulator that takes anything from 7 to 24 volts DC and produces a clean, steady 5 volts DC to run the gaming computer.
In other words, don't worry. Just plug it in and enjoy your Twin Famicom. ;)
133MHz, is it OK if I used adapter 9 V, 650 mA for Twin Famicom?
Any tips for repairing non responsive Famicom pad?
Thx before... ;D
650mA (Twin's original is 1.25A) seems a tad low, but make sure it's DC output & center positive.
Quote from: ericj on August 24, 2010, 09:53:02 am
650mA (Twin's original is 1.25A) seems a tad low, but make sure it's DC output & center positive.
Yes, it is center positive, DC Output. Thx ericj ;)
hello people of famicom world. I recently successfully added a rgb ppu from a playchoice arcade board to my AV famicom. The picture looks brilliant. Since the rgb is unamplified I'm building myself a small amp. I'm just wondering....what part of the av famicom motherboard can I get +5v from? It's model hvc-002
Some revisions of the Famicom motherboard come with convenient solder pads marked VCC and GND. Otherwise you can steal +5V by piggybacking on any known logic chip you might find (like the 74LS139 - pin 8 is ground and pin 16 is Vcc)
I got a Famiclone that looks like a famicom, bought it for close to nothing. Well, on the downside, it doesn't have the video/audio block just the ribbon with goldpin slots. Anyway, I managed to track all the routes with a multimeter. And it has come down to 4 signals: Vcc, GND, Audio, Video. generally those blocks (in famiclones) have amps and lots of passive elements etc. I'm not good at designing those, does anyone have shots of those, or schematics?
Thanks
This video amplifier should work for you:
(http://usuarios.multimania.es/dogbert/img/famavmod.gif)
As for the power block, just implement the LM7805 reference design with a protection diode and a 1000uF / 25V filter capacitor at the input.
K, thanks!
edit: could you tell me where did you get that schematic? maybe there's a good reference site I don;t know of?:)
Also, why no L/R channels?
I drew it myself, based on Kefka's mod with a bit of modification on my part. ;)
No separate audio channels because that leads to lack of enhanced cartridge sound. If you want to do a stereo mod you'll have to mix the CPU audio with the cartridge audio separately.
Hmm, I actually am not sure about the video pin.
Well, I Have a 7 pin connector. It has 3vcc pins (1 is connected with the switch), 1 Audio pin(it goes to the expansion ports 2 pin), 2 GND pins, and 1 (probably the video pin) pin that goes to a 74LS157 via some resistors.
Do you think it's the video or I'm making a mistake?
edit: I checked the last resistor that goes before the "mysterious pin" I thought is the video signal and it's 220 Ohm, just like in the famicom schematics:
http://nesdev.icequake.net/Ntd_8bit.jpg
So it must be it ;)
Do you know a EU substitute for that transistor? alright, I found it :) BC547
Sorry for all these questions and edits:
I don't really know what you mean by a protection diode with a capacitor at input, You probably mean to straighten out the ac, cold you draw up a quick schematic of how it should look like? Wouldn't it be just better to use a DC adapter?
Guys, please. No need to start a flamewar because of a 5 cent diode and a 25 cent capacitor. ::)
Both the protection diode and the filter capacitor I mentioned are used in the original Famicom design. The diode protects the system from people using the wrong AC adapter with it or from a sudden failure of the AC adapter, by blocking the reverse flow of current. You're right in that it's not strictly needed, but it's good design practice to include one, makes for a sturdier product. The NES includes a whole bridge rectifier inside, which basically means that it'll work with AC or any polarity DC, combined with a big filter capacitor and a linear voltage regulator with a wide input voltage range results in a redneck-proof machine.
As for the filter capacitor, once again you're right that the AC adapter already contains a similar capacitor to smooth out the pulsing DC. However you must account for resistive losses through the long wire that connects the adapter with the system (especially at low voltages), electromagnetic interference that might be picked up by that long wire and things like power glitches caused by wiggling the plug. Poorly filtered power on a Famicom leads to hum bars in the video, buzzing in the audio and potentially computer crashes, so you could say that its power design was over-engineered a little to ensure top performance.
Now that's an answer that satisfies me. Thanks again! Also, I did the AV board already. If anyone wants to etch it, grab it here:
http://rapidshare.com/files/416343395/FamiAV.zip
Hi,
I'm back with my awful stripes problem on a Famulator... I didn't really get an answer last time and I've tried to solve it the simple way without success and it's driving me crazy.
Here's the setup:
-brand new Famulator (bought in Japan) in July
-CRT TV (works fine with Twin Famicom; Megadrive, NES)
-220V->100V step down transformer
I get these awful lines as shown on this picture: http://yfrog.com/2oimag0103cj
I've tried:
- changing the AV cables
- another AC adapter
- removing any source of interference around
Please help!!!!! ;)
Well, I can help with the last question. Here is the NES to famicom pin map
http://nesdev.parodius.com/NES_ADAPTER.txt
I think you would want video output though.. I found it essential so that I could make sure the game was connecting properly before dumping the ROM.
Edit: hmm, I notice that pin 16 on that map is not mapped as it claims the famicom doesn't have the equivilent of the expansion port. Maybe there is more to this story; not sure. Sorry.
Why not try to "NTSC-ize" your PAL-EEC NES using spare parts from your Famicom? That would certainly be easier than trying to adapt a stock CopyNES to a Famicom.
Just replace the CPU, PPU and crystal oscillator with their Famicom counterparts and you should be good to go. ;)
Quote from: 133MHz on August 30, 2010, 06:09:30 pm
This video amplifier should work for you:
(http://usuarios.multimania.es/dogbert/img/famavmod.gif)
This is not an ideal circuit, video should only be AC coupled on the output (here it is not even), and definitely not on the input in order to minimize low frequency attenuation. In this circuit the coupling is necessary since the PPU sinks current, but it can be avoided by using another common-collector/voltage-follower amplifier. FC video quality is very forgiving because it's generated out of square waves and is very noisy in nature, but still if you can do better, why not? No need to be sloppy. I'm also not sure if it's properly biased for the PPU's level and this especially matters if the DC offset isn't removed... (well, depending on the monitor used the black level or even sync could be off.) Instead of the cap and NPN I would suggest just using a general purpose PNP (such as the 2N3906) and a circuit modeled after Nintendo's (as follows):
Connect the base directly to the video pin, pull up the emitter to 5V through a ~300 ohm resistor, tie the collector to GND. From there you tie a 220uF cap's positive lead directly to the emitter, and place a ~110R in series with the cap's negative lead to your circuit's output.
Well since that was the original circuit published on this site, I haven't really bothered to improve on it even after taking a look at better approaches on Japanese web pages, because it works decently enough ::). I'm going to try out your suggestion when I get some free time. :)
Hi,
Someone mentioned on the introduction thread to post my concerns at the technical repair thread... Not sure if this is the one but if you can help me I'd really appreciate it :] sorry if it look like I crashed onto a party or something.... And please bear with my not so very fluent english -_-;
Anyway, I bought a Sharp Twin Famicom last week at a Japanese surplus shop. The seller told me it was in good working condition, though I had no proof of it, as there was no adapter included, but it comes with not less than 10 cartridges, and I thought my brother would find a way about the adapter (he fixes all electrical stuff), and its around US $8 (converted), so I took the risk and bought it anyway.
And, well, as expected, the unit didn't work. We found the right adapter and all, but nothing happened. The led just... flicker, then off.
The guy from the introduction thread mentioned something about a 7805... I really don't know what it is, but I told my brother about it, and he said he had stockS of those (well he said he had lots of it). He needs to know where to solder it, so he needed some sort of schematics or service manual or something. I am unsure what the exact problem is though, but yeah, basically the unit won't turn on.
Since I'm having trouble explaining things, I took pictures. I opened the box so I can show you the board. I know you guys are familiar with this, so I hope you can help me with what to do about it, Make drawings on the picture or something... Anything that would help me explain to my brother... hehehe. He is willing to restore the famicom and make it work again... That is, if its still possible..
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/rcvalkyrie/famicom/th_openUnit.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/rcvalkyrie/famicom/?action=view¤t=openUnit.jpg) (http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/rcvalkyrie/famicom/th_board2-1.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/rcvalkyrie/famicom/?action=view¤t=board2-1.jpg) (http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/rcvalkyrie/famicom/th_board1-back.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/rcvalkyrie/famicom/?action=view¤t=board1-back.jpg) (http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/rcvalkyrie/famicom/th_board1.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/rcvalkyrie/famicom/?action=view¤t=board1.jpg)
[ Please let me know if I messed up with the dismantling coz I dunno what I was doing there x) ]
I really hope you guys can help me with this. Thank you very much :D
Must be this one, right?
(http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/8042/twin7805.png)
Read the inscription of that three-legged device which is screwed against that aluminum heatsink, must say 7805 somewhere on it.
Also, the LED on the Twin doesn't stay on when you turn on the unit. It will light up when it reads disk information. It does, however, flicker when you first power on the unit. If the LED flickers when you turn it on, then you may want to first check the voltage readings on the 7805 with a DMM before removing it, since the problem may be elsewhere.
I have a question that should be in this thread so (sorry for interupting the Twin FC question):
Maybe someone have seen something simillar - My newly purchased faulty famicom is bothering me - after switching ON, the image on TV begins to slowly fading away untill (about 10s) it switch to pitch black. (This is important - I have it connected directly from PPU pin21, through my custom AV mod PCB, that is working on my other famicom). It looks like the frequency on the crystal is fading or something, but the sound is working OK, and by using the oscilloscope, I found out that on the input and output of the oscillator (pin 29 on CPU and pin 18 on PPU) remains the same (sinunsoidal) through all the fading process, and after it also. So far I have tried to change 74-368 (2x), 74-139 and 74-373 with no luck. I got the RFbox/7805 smaller board disconnected and tried to put the rest directly on +5V with NO behavior change (only more fuzzy picture, because of missing capacitor- 1000u that is connected at 7805 for "cleaning out" the power input). Also I tried to change both CPU and PPU (and crystal) with simillar famiclone CPU PPU and crystal (only PAL) and the situation is the same (fading away till black, only the sound is slower due to different crystal frequency). I know, there's not much to do, maybe I should replace all the resistors and capacitors, and it will be ok, but I was thinking if the S-RAM chips cannot be the reason. I have no other SRAMs to change them with (the famiclones usually have the other - wider chips - the same 28pin but about 0,5 cm wider). So I only changed them between each other but with no behavior change at all.
I know there's not much to do anyway, but so far I have changed some capacitors, and some resistors, but I am afraid it wont help. I think somewhere is something really stupidly mistaken, so I am only asking if someone has witnessed the same "fading away" behavior, and what did you do about it. Thanks!
EDIT: I DID IT! It was the bloody transistor after all, I thought it behaved strangely...the Q3 on the Ntd_8bit schematics. So thanks for reading, and in case of fading, look for the faulty transistor!
Try some freeze spray / hair dryer on the components, it might be a thermal failure.
Hi guys,
I've just got a Famicom Disk System, but I keep getting the error 02, using both batteries and the Ac adaptor.
Why is that? the LED doesn't turn on, but it seems that the console works okay, since it boots up and finds the disk when I put a disk in.
Could you disassemble it and post a few pics of the power board (the board underneath the battery tray)?
Okay, later i'll do it and post some pics.
Post Merge: September 13, 2010, 09:25:07 am
Here are some photos:
(http://i53.tinypic.com/6ol9c2.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/o0nh53.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2dklijq.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/2rwooyo.jpg)
(http://i52.tinypic.com/2zjaqky.jpg)
(http://i53.tinypic.com/1zfk1zc.jpg)
By the way, sorry for the shitty quality
What's wrong with my Famicom?
The sound works fine aside from a buzzing noise. The problem I am having is with the graphics. Every game I try comes up with the sprites all glitched. I thoroughly cleaned my games and the pin connector on the Famicom, and still get the same thing. I'm pretty sure it's not the pin connector, because the games always boot up without fail. Also the graphical glitch is exactly the same on every boot. The graphics are not randomly glitched on each new boot, they stay in the same exact spot. The games works fine aside from the graphics. I can play them if I wanted to, I just won't be able to see what I'm doing.
Could be a cold solder joint where the cart connector connects to the board. One of my game doctors just had that problem. I re-flowed and touched up the joints and it works fine again. Just an idea.
Any suggestions? I really have no idea on what should I do.
Does the drive spin the disk when you put it in?
Quote from: ericj on September 14, 2010, 06:34:01 am
Does the drive spin the disk when you put it in?
Well, the LED doesn't turn on and i can't hear any noise coming from the FDS, so I guess the answer is no.
Check the 7805 voltage regulator (the thing screwed into the heatsink) and also check the drive belt.
If the 7805 looks okay physically, check it with a DMM. IIRC, looking at the front of it, the first leg on the left is input (should show around whatever voltage your AC adapter outputs), center leg is ground, and right leg is output (should be at 5V).
umm... I don't have a DMM :-[
You could buy one. They're handy for lots of stuff. :P
Even a cheap $10 multimeter is better than no multimeter at all. It's hard to diagnose circuit problems without one, unless something is physically awry.
OK guys, the FDS is now working fine...
...though my AV modded Famicom is still acting like an assh*le.
I was just playing my power joy on my new lcd tv the other day, and I had never noticed this but there was a weird green line that showed up especially well during solid color screens.
(http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/3263/dsc00002mr.th.jpg) (http://img821.imageshack.us/i/dsc00002mr.jpg/)
I thought it might just be the tv, but objects can make it disappear, and it flickers occasionally, and it changes colors.
Any ideas on what this is?
Post Merge: September 28, 2010, 05:33:22 pm
anyone?
Seems like a digital glitch, not caused by the analog video circuits but rather by things like a loose/dirty cartridge connector.
If it happens with the built-in games, it might just be defective. Not surprising considering the relatively low quality of Power Joy systems and the repeated (ab)use during their lifetime.
Abuse?
Thanks for telling me. It doesn't bother that me that much, and my power joy is not my main system.
Edit: I got it fixed. I guess some crud got caught in the cart connector, because I blew in it, and now it's glitch free!
Hi, first post here - pleased to meet you all!
I won a Twin Famicom AN-505 with a replacement belt on Ebay and I was psyched to play some disk games. The seller forgot to include the AC adapter, but thankfully he sent it out and I received it today. It looks pretty thin and cheap since it's a 3rd party one which may have led to the issues I'm facing now. For the record, I did get a step down transformer so I don't damage anything.
After testing a cartridge and disk game separately, they look fine on the screen, but I hear a really loud buzzing noise that overrides almost all sound coming from the game. I notice the control panel in the back of the system is a bit 'loose' and the whole area kind of moves a bit. Not sure if that would have to do with anything tho. I was thinking that maybe it had to do with the AC adapter being cheap and not 1st party.
My second issue is that on Controller 1 the A button doesn't respond. Is there a quick check I can do by unscrewing the controller?
If it is busted, I have a regular Famicom that fried and could use that controller. Would it be compatible with my twin to use the Fami controller?
Thanks guys!
Welcome to the forum!
As for your system, check the mic volume slider on controller #2. That's probably where the buzzing is coming from. It wouldn't be from the AC adapter. You should be able to unplug the controller from a regular Famicom and plug it into the pcb connector on the Twin; they use the same connectors. Otherwise, you can take apart the controller and try cleaning the contacts to see if it will start working again.
Thanks Eric!
Good news on the controller issue - I opened it up and there was what looked like soot on the A button contact. I used a Q-tip to clean it up and it was working fine for me! Good to know that the Famicom controllers are compatible with the Twin Famicom's pcb connector too.
As for the buzzing issue - I did make sure that the volume slide on the mic is down and I'm still getting it. I'll try to get a video of it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220670665476&_trksid=p2759.l1259#ht_5460wt_1139
This is the auction where I won it. The very last pic has the AC adapter that was shipped to me.
Post Merge: October 05, 2010, 08:28:25 pm
Here's the video of the buzzing noise:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxstq9C069Q
Edit: Looks like the controller fix was short lived. The A button would work sporadically and after some more cleaning it went back to not working. Do you think this is a contact or pad issue? It does seem 'light' when pressing A instead of B.
Hmm, any chance you can try another AC adapter to rule it out? Also, maybe try another RCA cable to see if that makes it go away.
You should be able to replace the controller's guts with those from a NES controller, but I'm not 100% on this since the Twin you have has switches on the controllers. It wouldn't hurt to take a look in case it would work.
Well I think I fixed the controller for good this time. I took the rubber pad from the Famicom controller and transplanted it to the Twin one. I am able to jump in games now. :)
Hopefully that solves it for good.
As for the AC adapter, I picked up a universal 7.5 v one at Radio Shack today and used the adapter plug that came with the one I was sent to hook into the system, but I got the same buzzing effect. I did try different RCA cables and on a different TV with the same results. I notice that if I unhook the audio AV plug then I won't get the buzzing.
Now I'm thinking maybe it is either the little adapter plug that goes from the end of the AC adapter to the system or possibly the audio out is damaged.
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd458/Leufion/9ff02a7c.jpg)
This is what the adapter piece looks like - and I am guessing that since it doesn't fit all the way into the system that maybe that's causing feedback? I may be completely wrong about that. Here's what it looks like once it's on in the back:
(http://i1220.photobucket.com/albums/dd458/Leufion/da74d974.jpg)
Would you be willing to open up the unit and unplug controller #2 from the pcb and see if that makes the audio buzzing go away? You may want to slide that mic volume potentiometer around while the twin is turned on to see if the buzzing gets louder or goes away before you disconnect it.
EDIT: While you have it apart, check the solder joints where the audio plug is grounded to the pcb to see if it's cracked. Also check for any burnt out components or bulging or leaking caps.
I actually got the buzzing to stop!
I haven't opened the system yet, but I wanted to try cleaning the volume slider in case the microphone was the culprit. I cleaned the board where the volume slider was and made sure it was in the off position. I was able to finally have the buzzing stop which is a huge relief. A few things that I noticed tho - if I even touch the volume slider in the off position it will buzz again - it's extremely sensitive.
Last night when I did open up the system I didn't see anything unusual. In fact the whole inside of the system looked pretty clean to me.
Edit: I did notice in Zelda for disk system that the volume and sound would cut off completely cut off at random even with the mic off. It would come back on sometimes, but not sure if that is related.
I suspected it was the mic on controller #2. Those pots are a real bitch when they get older. The one on my Twin is kind of like that, too. If it starts to buzz, I usually just slide it back and forth a few times and then to "off" and it stops.
Zelda uses the extra FDS sound channels, so it could be related to that. The mic shouldn't make the sound completely cut off, but the interference may affect how your TV picks up on the signal.
Thanks so much for helping me figure out what it was!
Are there any tips for maintaining the mic or at least getting it to stop freaking out when someone touches it?
I think you can lubricate the pot, maybe with sewing machine oil, nail gun oil , or something similar; someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Otherwise, if it gives you too many problems, just disconnect the damn thing. :P
I was able to swap the slider part out of my old Famicom and put it in the Twin's Controller 2 and it worked out beautifully! I could actually slide it to full volume without any buzz. I'm glad I had that bricked Famicom for spare parts. ;)
Reaction to ericj's suggestion:
Not with oil! Just try to clean it with some alcohol or special contact-cleaning solution (ask in electronics shop).
That's ok, I usually use isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips to clean any electronic contacts.
Also, forgive my ignorance, but what is the 'pot' part to lubricate? Is it the contact on the electronic board for the slider?
As for the Zelda sound issues, that stopped happening once I replaced the slider so as of now I'm issue free!
Post Merge: October 09, 2010, 03:34:20 pm
Hey - got a quick question again, this time about video output. Have you ever seen wavy dark lines when playing a Famicom or TF? I've been noticing these moving wavy bars that go in a diagonal pattern up and down the screen. I used to see them on my NES when there were a lot of RF switches around.
Is this the result of some sort of interference?
hello, i have a problem, i just a panasonic tv model # CT-20G4A and i do not have it's remote, how can i get it to switchinto AV mode without a remote?
thanks!
If there aren't any menu or video device selection buttons on it, I think you'll probably have to get a universal remote.
i have one
Post Merge: October 16, 2010, 03:44:54 pm
never mind i got it to work! i looked up the codes, it turns out my remote uses different codes than the normal ones.
thanks!
Hey guys. Today I come with a famiclone problem. Recently, my Super Joy III system stopped booting the internal ROM. I had to flip a switch inside just to get it to boot a cartridge. I've had this thing since I was a kid so I thought maybe an old wire came loose, but everything is soldered in nicely. Can the chip just die?
If it helps, when you turn on the console with the internal switch set to boot from the ROM, nothing happens. The TV screen doesn't do that flicker showing the system turning on at all. It does the flicker and boots to a black screen when there's no cartridge inserted and the switch is set to boot from the cartridge only. This is obviously normal.
Any suggestions? :-[
AFAIK the rom chips in pirate games can die. But I don't think it's this situation. All I can suggest is opening the system, and try to find loose parts, wires or maybe oxidized solder points where the rom chip (epoxy glob?) is soldered. Or maybe the switch (rom<->cartridge) became loose, or broken.
Clean the conacts on the controller PCB wih 91% rubbing alcohol, then (with fine grit sandpaper) lightly sand the pins on the slider.
After sanding, wipe the pins with alcohol, then lightly (uisng a cloth) apply WD-40 to each prong. DO NOT use WD-40 on th controller PCB, ot spray directly onto prongs... Spray ot on a paper towel and thn apply it to the prongs manually!
Bend each prong out by 1mm or so, then put it back together.
Quote from: Leufion on October 07, 2010, 10:02:02 am
That's ok, I usually use isopropyl alcohol and Q-tips to clean any electronic contacts.
Also, forgive my ignorance, but what is the 'pot' part to lubricate? Is it the contact on the electronic board for the slider?
As for the Zelda sound issues, that stopped happening once I replaced the slider so as of now I'm issue free!
Post Merge: October 09, 2010, 03:34:20 pm
Hey - got a quick question again, this time about video output. Have you ever seen wavy dark lines when playing a Famicom or TF? I've been noticing these moving wavy bars that go in a diagonal pattern up and down the screen. I used to see them on my NES when there were a lot of RF switches around.
Is this the result of some sort of interference?
Hi,
yesterday I bought famiclone and I bought i only for 4 Litas (about 2 $ ) :D And I had no conditions to test it.
That day I tried to turn it on but nothing happened I used 230v ac adapter. So everything that I want to know is... Can I repair it?
Thanks, and sorry for my bad english :)
Nor worth it.
Post some pictures of it, from outside and inside...
Inside : http://www.ipix.lt/images/58657945.jpg
http://www.ipix.lt/images/12799448.jpg
http://www.ipix.lt/images/85583715.jpg
http://www.ipix.lt/images/14493788.jpg
http://www.ipix.lt/images/20993723.jpg
Outside: http://www.ipix.lt/images/46115984.jpg
http://www.ipix.lt/images/37881566.jpg
http://www.ipix.lt/images/10142369.jpg
http://www.ipix.lt/images/53696626.jpg
That looks pretty cool! :D
But 230 volts would probably be WAY too much power for a simple famiclone. The NES only uses 9v.
Quote from: cubelmariomadness on October 31, 2010, 07:18:31 am
That looks pretty cool! :D
But 230 volts would probably be WAY too much power for a simple famiclone. The NES only uses 9v.
That's 230V
AC, as he stated: He's in
Lithuania, who use 230 Volts AC, not 100VAC (like Japan) or 110-120VAC (like the US). Europe works primarily on 220-240VAC, which is why you will need a voltage converter to run Japanese or American small appliances there. (Large appliances often use 220-240VAC in America as well, if you are curious.) The input is 230 volts, and output is 9VDC or 10VDC on his transformer... Many countries around the world have differing AC voltages, but Famicom and clone systems universally like 10V
DC, with around 850mA and center pole negative termination on their transformers.
What are the exact symptoms (e.g. does the TV screen change at all when you try turning on the system with or without a game), and are you sure that your transformer (AC adapter) is functional? Never use the transformer from an NES, as they output 9V
AC not 9V
DC and will damage the voltage regulator inside. If you can locate another with similar specifications, and the same tip type (e.g. an AC adapter from an original SEGA Megadrive/Genesis), you can try testing it. What you need is:
Input: 220-240VAC
Output: 9VDC or 10VDC; 800-1200mA
Polarity: Center Pin Negative (-)-----+
Thank u so i should try genesis or megadrive adaptor? And what about ps1 adaptor? oh,oh i almost forgot you said that i cant use nes original adaptor can u say why? Maybie i can try another famiclone's "zhilliton" adaptor?
Quote from: TeO_LTU on October 31, 2010, 08:02:10 am
Thank u so i should try genesis or megadrive adaptor? And what about ps1 adaptor? oh,oh i almost forgot you said that i cant use nes original adaptor can u say why? Maybie i can try another famiclone's "zhilliton" adaptor?
Yes, NES uses AC which is incompatiable with Famicom; you need to use DC. Many people have blew up their Famicoms using a NES power supply.
And yes, a Megadrive power adapter will work fine, they use DC.
Genesis/Megadrive, First Release (wide type) only. The adapter for the second and third releases 9with a yellow tip) is not usable. Your other Famicom clone will probably be compatible with this one: Most are.
The long answer: Nintendo's power transformer that comes with the NES (not the Famicom) is simply a stepdown transformer that converts X-Volts AC Input to ~9 Volts AC Output. The NES is designed to run on either AC or DC voltages, whereas the voltage regulator in the Famicom, and clone systems will only operate on DC voltage, so you need a transformer that converts your AC input to DC output. (That's what most AC adapters do: The NES power brick is simply an oddity.)
If you have a known-working FamiClone, check the ratings onm its power supply. If they are within the range that I mentioned above, then try the system with that adapter, and report your findings.
Hello everyone! I'm guineapig64 and I'm new to this site and I look forward to meeting everyone here at Famicom World!
I'm making this topic because I'm having some issues with my Famicom and I need some advice.
I recently bought a Famicom off of eBay and when it arrived, the Famicom will not work. The problem is that every time I go to turn it on it will not turn on at all and it never has worked for me since I bought it about two weeks ago. I live in the United States and I have an American RF Switch and an AC Adapter I also bought off of eBay since my Famicom didn't come with an original AC Adapter. This AC Adapter I bought is supposed to work with both the NES and the Famicom but it only seems to work on the NES. The seller who gave me the Famicom and the seller who gave me the AC Adapter claim that they work so I'm thinking one of the sellers on eBay are lying to me. If you can help I would greatly appreciate it! :)
A normal NES AC adapter will NOT work for the Famicom.
There's probably also the chance you killed your Famicom if you used the wrong adapter. :-\
Please post the exact specs from the label on your power supply, and a photo if you don't know what the stuff on it means. Also, to what channel are you tuning your TV? Japanese stations 1 and 2 are not the same as USA channels 1 and 2. You want to tune in to the range of channel 95, 96 and 97 (set the switch on the FC to 'Ch.1')...
The FC has no power indicator light, so it may be working, and you may simply be unable to view it either because you are setting the wrong channel or because your tuner won't lock onto the signal.
@Manuel: He probably has a generic adapter, which may very well work with both systems, assuming it is the correct rating. He never said it was a Nintendo-brand PSU. :) Again, a good example on hyy people need to put photos and specs in their 'please help' posts.
Here are the specs to my AC Adapter (if I'm correct on this):
AC/DC Adaptor
Class 2 Power Supply
Model: HK41U-0900800
Input: 120V AC 60Hz 16W
Output: 9.0V 800mA
I have the channel selector on my Famicom set to channel 1 and I even tried channels 95, 96, and 97 and I still don't get anything.
AC or DC output because if it outputs AC then you fried your Famicom, if that isnt the problem... then likely your tv is one of the very small amount of tv's that cannot pick up the Famicom channel signal.
Or simply it never worked, and you were ripped off.
I'm guessing that the output to my adapter is DC. It says on my adapter that the input is AC but it doesn't say AC or DC for the output.
Welcome to the forum!
I'd suggest taking apart the Famicom and checking the voltage regulator and fuse. I'm guessing that AC adapter you have is putting out DC, but I could be wrong, so you're probably okay using it.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3243/2776370880_76ca50169a.jpg)
The black bar on the left is a fuse. Try bypassing it with a small piece of wire if your voltage regulator checks out okay.
I would like to do that but the problem is that I'm not very good when it comes to taking things apart and checking them out. I did take it apart the one day but I have absolutely no idea how all this works. ???
It's possible that the power supply is toast, or that your TV can't synchronize to the FC video signal, or that the RF switch-box is bad. You are testing multiple games, right?
Quote from: guineapig64 on November 12, 2010, 08:12:10 am
Here are the specs to my AC Adapter (if I'm correct on this):
AC/DC Adaptor
Class 2 Power Supply
Model: HK41U-0900800
Input: 120V AC 60Hz 16W
Output: 9.0V 800mA
I have the channel selector on my Famicom set to channel 1 and I even tried channels 95, 96, and 97 and I still don't get anything.
What polarity is it? The Famicom uses tip negative polarity.
This is why I said he should photograph it... He may not know how to read its polarity fro the label, if it's even designated at all. I knew it was a generic part from his description, and while adequate, the amperage is a tad low.
@guineapig64: If you want to pay for roundabout postage, I can test the system for you.
My brother mentioned last night that my AC Adapter was low on amperage and I did end up ordering an original Famicom AC Adapter off the internet but it didn't arrive yet and so my brother told me to wait for the original Famicom AC Adapter to arrive to get the Famicom to work again.
@Xious: I wouldn't mind sending the Famicom to you but I haven't quite decided yet if I should wait for the original Famicom AC Adapter to arrive or I should send it out now.
FYI, you will also need to order a 110V to 100V AC voltage stepdown transformer to use the Japanese (original) PSU part. You don't want to run it on the USA 110-120VAC power without the converter for long, as it can damage the PSU and the unit.
If you want to send it for me to inspect, let me know and I will PM you my RMA address. I will test it at no charge, as long as you pay for return postage.
Okay, I'll be sure to order a voltage stepdown transformer. :)
I have decided that I'll send my Famicom to you so I'll have to get everything ready. I will also pay for the return shipping.
Hello, I'm Pulse, prolly shouldn't be asking for help on a first post but oh well :P
anyway, long story short, finally found a FDS that was cheap enough for me to buy, but it doesn't work (moral of the story: don't buy something that says "untested"). I either get a grey screen, or a bunch of flashing blocks that just scramble around in no particular order
I thought i was making some leeway into this problem when i wiggled the part of the RAM adapter cord closest to the cartridge end and the colors would start flashing again, so I opened up my RAM adapter and it looks like all the wires are connected properly. Since then i haven't been able to get the flashing colors t come back, nothing but grey screen...
any ideas?
Clean the connector with rubbing alcohol and try it again. It's possible that the ram adapter is faulty, but I haven't personally found a bad one yet. Also, are you testing it on an official Famicom or a clone console?
If you're interested, I have 2 extra ram adapter parts, but if you got one you'd need to unplug the cable from yours and plug it into mine since I used the cable to make a FDSLoader dump cable. PM me if you're interested.
i tried cleaning the contacts with rubbing alcohol before taking the RAM adapter apart and that didn't work, now that i took it apart an scrubbed a little better, i get sound and garbled graphics, but its a step in the right direction! Thanks!
this marks the first time I've actually cleaned a cartridge and it worked...
EDIT: It lives! now i just have to wait for my Disks to come in, thanks again!
Greetings from Argentina.
I just bought an original japanese Famicom (HVC-001). Due to Argentina's customs regulations I had to buy it without its power adapter.
I bought a power adapter at a local electronics shop with the following specs: 10V 2000mA. The guy at the shop told me 2000mA should work OK.
Also, the adapter can change its polarity.
I tried the adapter on my Famicom but didn't seem to work. I think I may have put it in the wrong polarity :(
Can reverse polarity and over 850mA damage a Famicom in any way?
Also, TVs down here are PAL-N (I've got an LCD one that can work on NTSC), so I'm not sure what channel to try (tried 2 through 10 and 96,97).
Thanks in advance for your help.
Quote from: gonzalo on November 18, 2010, 06:04:03 am
Can reverse polarity and over 850mA damage a Famicom in any way?
¡Bienvenidos!
Yes, you can damage the Famicom with reverse polarity. Most likely it will damage the voltage regulator and maybe fuse and capacitor in the power supply. Either way, any damage done by it should be a quick and easy fix. Only way to know for sure it to take it apart and test it.
QuoteYes, you can damage the Famicom with reverse polarity. Most likely it will damage the voltage regulator and maybe fuse and capacitor in the power supply.
Ouch! OK, thanks for the info. I'll give a shot at testing it this weekend. Any useful guides/links on that matter?
There aren't any guides AFAIK, but all you'd need to do is first look at the voltage regulator, if it looks broken, then it's bad. If it looks okay, test it with a DMM and see if it's okay. Check the fuse for continuity with a DMM, and visually inspect the capacitor. When a cap is blown, they will typically bulge and/or leak electrolyte.
Can someone tell me what tool i need to open a famicom ac adapter?
Hello all, first post here. And it might be a bit long. Sorry for that.
If you don't want to read everything, I highlighted my question.
I'm Dioxaz, live in France and successfully AV-modded a Famicom before, with help of that page (http://www.h3.dion.ne.jp/~kuboken/famicom/famav2.html).
I'm posting here because someone recently sent me a nonworking Famicom, having no knowledge about how to check voltages from the LM7805 and wanting to AV-mod it (no choice when you live in Europe).
As soon as I got the system in hands, I quickly spotted a blown fuse (it's a HCV-CPU-GPM-02 motherboard), as no 12V or 5V could be got from the LM7805. I shunted the fuse and, good news, the LM7805 wasn't blown itself as it did its job properly.
Unfortunately, things got complicated when trying to boot a game.
The first time I tested the system, as I didn't have an appropriate power supply, I used a cheap center-negative one outputting 6V at 1A. Switching the Famicom on with that power supply gave me a wavy picture* (but no hints of a game screen) and tuning to other close frequencies to get sound gave me a 50Hz hum so I quickly switched the system off.
While waiting to test the system with a proper power supply (a Mega Drive MK1 one with negative tip), I tried with an ATX one with no better results (only a black screen). Finally, I got the MD power supply in hands.
But it didn't got any better. I have three games with me, including a previously tested one. All do the same black screen instead of snow. As if no cartridge was in. I tried every possible solution I knew, cleaning the cartridge contacts with alcohol, cleaning the cartridge connector with a toothbrush but no change.
Is it possible that I damaged the motherboard by using that cheap power supply and trying an ATX one? Even If I never did a reverse polarity?
Is it possible to determine what could have been wrong on the motherboard and if it is fixable?
Indeed there's the possibility that it was broken before (as I found the fuse to be already blown) but I'm not really sure if Famicoms are really that fragile.
I also tried to pick up the audio directly from the board (in case it was the RF part that were faulty), but this only resulted in a drop out when switching on and off the system (no sound of a game).
Regards
* French TV sets can't take NTSC though their tuner (only through SCART and AV inputs), but I knew I could get an out-of-sync picture by tuning my TV to 96 or 97 MHz and using the original RF modulator (for CH2, 91MHz for CH1). This is quick test to see if the Famicom works correctly before AV-modding it
Are you sure the voltage regulator is outputting the correct voltage? I doubt you damaged the motherboard.
Thank you for the reply.
Well, according to my multimeter, 5V was read on the output. I even checked several times, just in case.
I bought a Twin Famicom on eBay with bad audio. It causes a "buzzing" sound, which (thanks to the posts a few pages back) I was thankfully able to diagnose as being a bad 2P controller.
There are some replacement controllers on eBay right now for $40 shipped, but I'd rather repair the 2P controller and save $40 if I can.
1) Any advice for repairing the controller? (Or at least diagnosing it further.)
I tried cleaning the linear potentiometer (volume slider), didn't help. I tried sliding the slider all around, and weirdly it only seemed to fix itself when I was sliding it around with the controller disassembled, with the contacts at the *highest* volume level.
I could also get the sound to be ok if I left the controller totally disassembled (slider not making any contact), turned on the Famicom, and held the 2P controller PCB in a certain way (this made me think bad solder joints, but they look nice, could be bad cable?), but only after the famicom had been on more than 10 seconds or so. If I turned the system off and on at this point, the sound would be bad when I turned it on and then gradually get better, and after about 10 seconds it was ok again. (Capacitor issue?)
Any advice would be appreciated.
2) The microphone was literally falling apart, so I desoldered it from the controller PCB. I thought this might stop the buzzing, but no such luck.
Where can I get a replacement microphone? Mouser? Does anybody know of an equivalent part number?
(Alternatively, if somebody has a cheap 2P controller with a functional microphone, or a cheap broken famicom, I'd buy it in a heartbeat.)
Thanks.
The buzzing comes from the slider in the II.p. controller for 99%. 1% from the bad cable connecting controller with the famicom. How about disabling the slider completely? I was also thinking about using the microphone sometimes, but I never did it. There's no point having it functional (if you don't have FDS and Zelda for example).
my gamebit screwdriver won't fit in the shafts of my av famicom! i can't reach the screws. http://cgi.ebay.com/Game-Bit-GameBit-Magnetic-Rubber-Grip-Screwdriver-New_W0QQitemZ270692569732QQ (http://cgi.ebay.com/Game-Bit-GameBit-Magnetic-Rubber-Grip-Screwdriver-New_W0QQitemZ270692569732QQ)
What the hell should i do
Either buy a driver/bit with a skinnier shaft or give the pen method (http://www.engadget.com/2006/11/18/mini-how-to-make-a-tool-to-breach-nintendos-security-screws/) a try.
I've a question I'd like to pose to all you accomplished Famicom nerds. I recently bought an AV Famicom. It arrived promptly (for having come from Osaka, anyway) and it worked fine. However, at the end of the first day, I was in the middle of a game of Dragon Quest II when it locked up. I now can't get it to read cartridges. Some maybe pertinent details:
I noticed that I had to apply a lot of pressure to the eject switch, particularly with the game that shipped with the console, the Bandai-released Saint Seiya tie-in Ougon Densetsu. Having never used a Famicom before, I'm not qualified to say is this normal or not. My other Famicom carts ejected with comparatively little effort. Compared to Ougon Densetsu, that is.
And also probably worth mentioning is that the adapter included in the package was not an offical adapter, in fact on the bottom of the box it lists it as being usable with both the SFC and the PCE. Although not official, it does seem to match up to all the relevant specs for an official adapter: AC100V 50/60Hz DC9v~10v850mA; quoting directly from the box.
I don't by any means understand what all of that signifies, but I do know it matches up more or less exactly to similar instances of electrospeak I've seen with regards to official Famicom adapters. I don't however believe that the issue is with the adapter although that may not be the case, and in fact I'm leaning towards discounting voltage issues in general because I think if I had 'fried' my console it would have A.) been more dramatic and B.) have precluded me getting a gray screen, which is what now happens when I insert a cartridge. Some sort of brief but dramatic summary of the process of 'frying' would probably be helpful to me. I should probably add that I live in the US and was not using a step-down converter, although I've read numerous reports of this being really not much of an issue juxtaposed with conflicting reports claiming it to be the central issue. So but I'm not sure what to believe there.
One last maybe important detail is that although the Famicom in question is equipped with A/V cables and therefore an AV Famicom, it is at the same time definitively not the gray-colored Famicom HVC-101 model. We're referring here to an original Famicom with the white-red-gold chromatic scheme and the irrevocably-attached controllers, much more compact than the bulky NES and more visually interesting than the HVC-101. The A/V cables share a port on the back of the device with the cord for the 2P controller. I don't know was it modified in this way at some point in it's life or what exactly the full extent of the deal is there, but I assume this could be important.
I was considering trying to clean the bit that reads the game cards (pins are they called?) with a toothbrush dipped in rubbing alcohol, which I've seen suggested for similar problems, but any other suggestions or advice any of you could provide would be most welcome.
Accomplished Famicom nerds?
It was a compliment.
My guess, if cleaning the cart connector doesn't help, is that a connection came loose in the AV mod. Any chance you'd be willing to open it up after cleaning & re-testing if it still doesn't work?
What voltage do you have in the US electrical outlets? Because inserting a 100V adapter in 220V socket is really a bad idea..
110-120V for standard outlets, 240V for larger appliances like stoves, clothes dryers, etc. But, the outlets are shaped differently. Even so, if you plugged a 110V appliance in 240V it'd blow right away, there'd be no playing it first. Also, you definitely wouldn't get a gray screen if the cap, ac adapter, and/or voltage regulator popped.
then it's most likely that something from the AV mod is loose
Cartridge lever hardness is normal...
I should also note that I plugged it into a power strip rather than directly into an outlet, which I think in itself dilutes the voltage somehow. I would be more than willing to open up the console although I've never really done it to anything I didn't want to break before. Would I be getting a gray screen if the cables had come loose? I'll try cleaning and report on results.
If you won't be lucky by cleaning it, open it and post some photos. Our company of Accomplished Famicom nerds will take a look at it ;D
The power strip makes no difference and doesn't change the voltage. The Famicom works on 5V via an internal 7805 voltage regulator anyways. As long as you're within the specs of the 7805, voltage should be fine.
Does the gray screen flash as you turn it on/off? If so, check your AV cables, clean the cart connector, and then open it up if it's still not working.
Like ericj is writing, most likely it's just a bad connection between famicom and cartridge (if you see the gray screen after powering on). Clean also your cartridges.
One Isopropyl rub-down later...
No change. Checked and cleaned housing and all cartridges. I'm gonna have to go inside. I'll do it carefully and post some photos. Plus and I'm getting a proper HVC-101 AV Famicom pretty soon, so that'll obviate the problem. Although I do like the original color scheme much better. I will return.
Alright... A dirty cart slot wouldn't have caused the game to crash like this during operation: it would have caused the game to be unable to load initially, or caused graphical glitches, but this would've been readily apparent with DQ2. If you use rubbing alcohol be sure to use 91% concentration, not 70%. You can use a toothbrush, then use something like thin, sturdy cardboard around the thickness of the PCB edge of a cart to insert into the pins on your FC. The abrasiveness is helpful to clean the corrosion.
--{Is there still a good source for real cart cleaning kits; maybe genesis/MegaDrive, NOS or newly made?}--
When using a toothbrush, be aggressive, but gentile. Don't force it into the slot or bend the pins! Apply only a drop of rubbing alcohol to the brush; more than that will just leak into the system and spread moisture all over the place; be sure that after cleaning, you let it dry thoroughly. Don't blow it dry with either your moth, or a hair-drier! The vapours from your lungs will help to re-corrode the pins, and a hair-drier may damage the system. --{Yes, I've heard of people using the latter.}-- Let it sit out at least overnight, or pick up a mini-bellows (hand-bellows) from your local auto-repair or tools shoppe. They cost very little and are quite effective.
Honestly, I suspect this to be a power problem or a damaged modification. I have to ask, did you jar, or drop the system; maybe tug the controller too hard during use when this happened, or did it just occur out of the blue?
Depending on if the mod was done free-floating (bad) or on a PCB (good), there are a lot of things that could've happened. If the mod was done properly, then it's possible that the GND connection fell off. That would instantly kill both audio and video though. If +5V came loose, you'd get a bit of luminosity, (possibly a de-synced image) and sound.
Are you still getting sound, but with a grey screen? Did you buy it from a dealer in Osaka? if so, it may be guaranteed in some way...and if it is, then they may cover cost of repairs.
When taking photos, please be sure to locate the part number on the transistor that was used. If you need help with this, PM me or post here. --{It's good to know if it's NPN or PNP and which poles are which (CBE, ECB, EBC, etc.) when looking at how the mod was done to be sure of where everything should connect.}-- I'll see if I can walk you through repairing it, should that be the case.
Is the original RF box still intact and functional? You can verify the system's operation via RF as well if it is, and this will tell you if the mod is to blame, but could take some doing, as Famicom units can be problematic to use on US TVs without some extra work.
It can be a power issue as well. I recall several instances that cause light grey screens: A blown fuse may have been one of them: I don't recall, but I can test for that later to see. Lastly, using the original PSU on 110-120VAC (North America) is a bad idea. That's as much as 20% beyond what the adapter is designed to convert, and this may and probably will cause heat issues, and will damage at least the power supply in the end. FYI, the PSU is the same for the Famicom and the Super-Famicom--all the way down to the part number. In fact, heat can cause the fuse to go, and if I'm right in my remembering, that may be the cause of this.
If you want to 'dilute' the voltage, you need a step-down transformer (110VAC-->100VAC) to do so; these are easily purchased and cost about US$60 and up, depending on the desired maximum load. You can also get a USA-spec'd PSU (110VAC->10VDC) that'll work perfectly.
A further question: I'm looking for a voltage converter, but do I need a step-down converter or step-down transformer? I'm slightly confused with the whole thing. I live in the US, where I believe outlets output at 120v, and my impression is that I need to step down to 100v, so could somebody please tell me exactly what I should be getting?
You want this 500W transformer (http://www.amazon.com/VT-500J-JAPANESE-AMERICAN-TRANSFORMER/dp/B000PC4JL4) and yes, that's a great price. I have several from this manufacturer (including the 1KW model for my tech stations), and they all work splendidly. No worries: 500W is all you'll need. :bomb:
This seems to be a very common question about the Voltage. I know I have used my Famicom by just plugging it straight into the wall with the original AC adapter and it worked fine. There are a lot of other people that also use their foreign systems without an step up/down converter. It won't hurt to have one but, I might be wrong on the precentage, I believe that the range of accepted voltage on a house is 10%. That means that the 120V of the house can be from 108V to 132V. Sorry if the 10% is wrong but that is what I thought I remember from my electrician buddy.
IIRC, it typically ranges from ~110-125V. From what I've read, the 10% variance for homes is correct.
Either way, that's why there's an internal voltage regulator to take it down to 5V from whatever the voltage from the ac adapter is (provided it's within tolerance of the 7805). I'd rather replace 20 fifteen-cent 7805 voltage regulators than buy a $40 step-down converter.
But, like you, I've never had a problem without one. The 100V-input ac adapter will just put out slightly higher voltage (~20%) than it specifies when used on 120V, which is still within acceptable range for the 7805. Could the extra heat from using it on a 120V outlet decrease the ac adapter's lifespan? Quite possibly. That's why it's up to you if you want to use one. I personally don't think it's worth the fuss. A quality surge protector would be a wiser investment.
FWIW, an aftermarket ac adapter made for 120V would be a lot cheaper, and then there'd be no worry about destroying the original, which you could just keep in a box somewhere.
Feel free to disagree. I'll accept a logical, well thought-out reason for using one, but I've yet to be convinced.
Hello! I recently bought an AV modded Famicom and tried to hook it up to my LCD TV.
I have 2 problems, one is that the picture flashes red and green all the time, it's very tiring for the eyes and makes it unplayable. I tried another AV modded Famicom and it doesn't have that problem, so it's not the TV. Is this a common problem with AV mods? I couldn't find anyone with a similar problem at least.
The other problem is that it's hard to get a picture to show up on the TV in the first place. I get sound but to get a picture I have to change source many times and eventually it usually works. It's the same with both the working one and the one that flashes green and red. I heard that the Famicom may have trouble with newer TV-sets.
I tried it at a friends place that has the exact same TV model as I have and now it doesn't work at all! No sound either. Both the working one and the one with a flashing picture. Did it break when I transported it? I was very careful. Or maybe the TV is different somehow. I'm going to test them on my TV again as soon as I can.
The TV is a Hyundai model: HLT-32V2. It's PAL but the AV and SCART outlets are NTSC compatible and works with my Japanese Nintendo 64. I have yet to try the RF port since I don't have an RF cable with a PAL plug here at the moment.
Also I can't open up the Famicoms just yet or I won't be able to return it to the seller as it has a seal over the screws.
Edit: I just tested both consoles on my TV again and they both work so my friend's TV is somehow different. It's still hard to get a picture though. The picture is not very good looking either but I think that is only because it is a HDTV.
The problems is still the same: Hard to get a picture and color flashing when I do get a picture.
Flashing can be caused by the broken/torn/dirty cable connecting the famicom and TV. How is your Famicom modified? Is the cable detachable from famicom? If yes, try another one.
Oh if that is the case then, wow such a simple problem! The cable is hardwired through the CH1<>CH2 Switch slot and as I said before I can't open it just yet but thanks anyway!
Then there is the problem with getting a picture to show up. I seem to get a picture everytime with Solomon No Kagi but I can't get a picture with Robot Block (only sound). I got a picture with it before after some trying, but now it seems to be impossible.
How come some games have different difficulty to get a picture than other games? I have more games I could try but I don't have access to them at the moment.
Edit: I just noticed that one of the famicoms is a Hong Kong version! The one with the flashing picture is a Japanese version. Anyone knows if there is any problems with the Hong Kong version? All my games are Japanese version. The video signal seems to be NTSC 3.58 on my TV. If I change it to anything else I will get a black and white picture. That is the same as Japan right?
Edit2: I got Robot Block to work again! I used a SCART adapter and plugged it in the SCART outlet. That's what I did when it worked before, but I thought it was the same back then so I didn't try it again until now. It still doesn't explain why I couldn't get either sound nor a picture on my friends identical TV.
No one knows anything about the Hong Kong version? I'm thinking about compatibility problems with any games or peripherals. I would guess no though.
Oh I just found this thread http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=4138.0 so it should work 100% with all games and peripherals.
Also the seller are going to replace the Japanese famicom with the flashing picture so I'm waiting for a new one.
Hi everyone. I'm a Famicom owner from my days of living in Japan as a youngster, so I was glad to find this forum. Anyway, I decided I wanted to play Super Mario Bros so I dug my old Famicom system out (the red and white one) and thought i'd try to hook it up. unfortunately, I couldn't get it to work with my LCD tv which made me wonder if they're even compatible. does anyone else here have issues? I live in the US and I know my Famicom worked on an old CRT tv many yrs ago, but that was because I hooked the system up via the RF switch that's part of the console. Would simply replacing the RF switch with a modern component cable work? I don't even know if I was hooking up the Famicom correctly - I plugged in the adapter, hooked the RF switch up through the cable jack on the back of my LCD but nothing happened. I don't know if the RF switch is fried or if it just doesn't work. If anyone here has experience hooking up a Famicom system on LCD's please feel free to chime in.
I know this is gonna sound noobish, but I tried opening my Famicom earlier and I think there are 6 screws at the bottom, but I can't undo one of them with a screwdriver. Can anyone tell me how to open it properly? :(
Quote from: gaseousclay on February 18, 2011, 07:30:26 pm
Hi everyone. I'm a Famicom owner from my days of living in Japan as a youngster, so I was glad to find this forum. Anyway, I decided I wanted to play Super Mario Bros so I dug my old Famicom system out (the red and white one) and thought i'd try to hook it up. unfortunately, I couldn't get it to work with my LCD tv which made me wonder if they're even compatible. does anyone else here have issues? I live in the US and I know my Famicom worked on an old CRT tv many yrs ago, but that was because I hooked the system up via the RF switch that's part of the console. Would simply replacing the RF switch with a modern component cable work? I don't even know if I was hooking up the Famicom correctly - I plugged in the adapter, hooked the RF switch up through the cable jack on the back of my LCD but nothing happened. I don't know if the RF switch is fried or if it just doesn't work. If anyone here has experience hooking up a Famicom system on LCD's please feel free to chime in.
The LCD might be a bit too new for it too work I heard. Even if you have a real US-NTSC TV you might still have problems. I don't think you can just convert the signal by just changing the cable. You will have to AV-mod it (and by that taking the signal directly from the PPU I think).
I'm going to test my famicom on my (PAL) LCD TV using an RF-cable from my PAL SNES, but I doubt it will work.
Quote from: Cheetahmen on February 19, 2011, 08:44:11 am
I know this is gonna sound noobish, but I tried opening my Famicom earlier and I think there are 6 screws at the bottom, but I can't undo one of them with a screwdriver. Can anyone tell me how to open it properly? :(
Oh you accidentally destroyed it? (Bear with me now as this will take quite a few kinda technical words that I don't actually know in English) if you have a dremel or something you could try making a new pattern in it for a normal screwdriver to fit in to. You could also try some abrasive paste so the screwdriver will not slide. It might be called different things by different sellers and countries. Diamond paste maybe.
When you have removed it, it's better to replace it with a new stainless steel screw so that it won't happen again. Or just leave it empty if you can't find one of the same size. One screw more or less will not matter too much I think.
Worst case you might just have to carefully drill off the head or the whole screw. But if you do that you might not be able to replace it afterwards.
Quote from: P on February 23, 2011, 03:46:49 pm
The LCD might be a bit too new for it too work I heard. Even if you have a real US-NTSC TV you might still have problems. I don't think you can just convert the signal by just changing the cable. You will have to AV-mod it (and by that taking the signal directly from the PPU I think).
I'm going to test my famicom on my (PAL) LCD TV using an RF-cable from my PAL SNES, but I doubt it will work.
where can I have my Famicom AV modded? are there any places online I can check out that offer this service? I tried contacting a local place but they only do modern consoles like xbox or playstation.
As you live in USA you could try getting an older CRT TV like you had before. The light gun and Robot only works on a CRT TV anyway. But I don't know if the famicom will work on all US CRT TVs as the frequencies are different from Japanese ones.
But if you want to mod try asking Xivious on this forum. I think he sells some kit so that you can AV-mod it yourself, and I think he also offers modding services, plus he seems to also be in USA so shipping shouldn't be much of a problem I hope (I'm in Europe so I don't really know).
I bought my Famicom already AV-moded from a seller in Hong Kong but I had some problems (a few posts above) with it and I'm having it replaced now.
There are also the Twin Famicom (and Twin Turbo) and AV-Famicom/NewFamicom that already have AV-output but they are quite expensive to get.
Bought two untested junk famicoms the other day. I probably won't get to tinkering with them till next month, but I just wondered what the prognosis might be on these two..
- The first one I tried immediately booted up with the game I tested. Everything was fine except the lack of game sound. Instead there was a kind of electric murmuring. Game played great though.
- Didn't have much luck at all with the second one. It powered on but all I could get was a variety of colored screens. I cleaned out the cartridge slot with a toothbrush and it didn't seem terribly dirty.
Quote from: Cheetahmen on February 19, 2011, 08:44:11 am
I know this is gonna sound noobish, but I tried opening my Famicom earlier and I think there are 6 screws at the bottom, but I can't undo one of them with a screwdriver. Can anyone tell me how to open it properly? :(
If you stripped it, go to your local HW store and ask for: A reverse-thread tapping set for stripped screws. With that, you can use a tiny drill bit to make a set of threads and the tapping tools to extract it.
If it just won't shift, get a Phillips No.2 driver with a rubber grip or a T-handle for the best-fit and better leverage. It's not uncommon for corrosion to grow on the screws that can make them stiff to remove.
Don't use Phillips No,0 No.1 or No.3, as they are incorrect sizes. Too small (No.00, 0, 1, etc.) will srip the head, requiring a tapping set, and No.3 is too big to get a decent lock.
You want No.0 or No.1 for the controller though, which you'll want to open in order to restore the buttons and microphone. :bomb:
Quote from: tappybot on March 06, 2011, 04:47:23 am
- The first one I tried immediately booted up with the game I tested. Everything was fine except the lack of game sound. Instead there was a kind of electric murmuring. Game played great though.
If using the RF output then it might just need a little tweaking on the sound coil to get the audio back. :)
I would also suggest you try disconnecting the Player-II controller: I've run into systems where noise from the mic line blankets out all other system sounds. Simply open the system, unplug the Player-II controller connection and try using it. If this is the case, then you'll need to restore the Player-II controller.
Flashing colours could be a variety of issues: Anything from one loose or bad component, all the way up to defective SRAM or the PPU; it can potentially be a RF-modulator issue too, and will require some probing to solve. :bomb:
I have your Typical Twin Fami problem. Changed belt and now only error.
I get error 22 no matter what. Even if I cover the lens with tissue paper. I can't get the glue of the screw to adjust the head so I only adjust the motor.
Is there a point in me to continue trying with the motor speed? Or should I try to get the clue of the screw, or maybe something else?
Check out the belt replacement info I have on my site HERE (http://www.famicomdisksystem.com/tutorials/fds-repair-mod/belt-replacement-adjustment/).
Getting Error 22--the problem is most likely the alignment of the spindle hub in relation to the read head, or the magnetic head is dirty (clean it with a q-tip & isopropyl alcohol).
Your guide was very helpful to me. I found it already yesterday through Google.
I have tried the suggestion you gave. Still getting error 22, so I'll leave it be for now. But thank you.
Surprising... I have an old original famicom and I am having difficulty finding a tutorial on how to swap out an old 60pin cartridge slot for a new one, and even where to buy a new 60 pin cartridge slot. I see plenty of stuff about 60 to 72 pin converters and what not but not what I'm looking for. Sorry, I'm usually good as searching for stuff. :(
You can buy a new 60 pin cart slot at Tototek.com. Get desoldering braid and desolder the old one and solder the new one in place. It doesn't require a tutorial, which is why you haven't found one.
Anyone have advice for a material to replace a disk system belt with? Thanks.
A new belt. You can buy one at Tototek.com for $6 (http://www.tototek.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_35&products_id=106).
Always use good, correct belts! Don't try to make one: They need to be EXACTLY the right size, shape and tensile strength, or you'll be in for a world of nightmares... The ones that Tomy at tototek sells are great: I also have some to sell if you want one faster, and I do full FDS servicing and restoration (w/ 1-Year warranty) if you want it done by a professional.
FYI, Err 22 is caused by about seven different potential problems. It indicates a problem reading the data block sequence.
NEVER, for ANY REASON should you adjust the factory setting on the read-head!
Sites that suggest that are giving very bad, misinformation based on a poor translation of tech docs in Chinese.
Out of hunderds of drives, the only ones on which I've had to adjust the head were units that the previous owner altered; had to reset them to factory spec and reseal them with red wax. :)
I'm also working on providing a full line of replacement reproduction FDS parts. I have all but one screw-type available now and I'm waiting to receive a package of custom-made springs to verify that they are correct.
I still need a source for the Mitsumi microswitches: Those are next.
Anyhow, if you need FDS/Twin service, P.M. me or ring me at 260-FDS-DISK. :bomb:
Hello to everybody from Italy.
I am interested in starting a Famicom collection, but I also want to play with the games I will buy.
I am going to buy a Famicom AV, can I use a PAL SNES power adapter to give it power? If I use a PAL SNES power adapter, do I have to use a stepdown converter?
Does exist any difference between PAL SNES power adapters of different nationalities, or can I use a French or German one without worries here in Italy?
Thanks for your answers. :)
Xious,
thanks for the advice. There is a popular pdf document that suggests to adjust the factory settings on the read head as a way to fix all problems, by correcting the distance with the help of a micrometer.
But as you said, there are many suggestions on how to fix the disk system.
A popular youtube video by lukiegames (luke morse?) suggests to cut your own belt from a piece of rubber. But he also unscrewed everything when he replaced the belt so I don't know how reliable he is.
I'm not sure if you are offering your services to me or to someone else here. Thank you. I might have been interested if I didn't live on a different continent.
Ice Man:
Will answer you too :)
No, the AV Famicom uses 9V DC (also check the polarity). The PAL SNES uses AC. If you put the AC adapter in the AV Famicom you might ruin it. But you can use a Sega Master System or Mega Drive adapter with the AV Famicom.
I know we can use the German adapter in Sweden, so I guess you could use a German in Italy too. But the UK is different.
Thanks, I asked about the PAL SNES adapter because I use one to power my Super Famicom without needing stepdown converters, and I thought it would be fine for the Famicom AV too, but I was wrong.
Talking about SEGA adapters, are any of them ok for Famicom AV? To be honest, I feel a little strange to mix components from SEGA and Nintendo. :)
In the end I think I will simply use a stepdown converter, are 45W enough for Famicom and 16 bit consoles?
I don't know about step down, I use a 9V DC adapter for all my Japanese consoles. Just remember that the Twin Famicom has a different polarity.
Quote from: fredJ on April 11, 2011, 02:32:09 pm
Xious,
thanks for the advice. There is a popular pdf document that suggests to adjust the factory settings on the read head as a way to fix all problems, by correcting the distance with the help of a micrometer.
But as you said, there are many suggestions on how to fix the disk system.
A popular youtube video by lukiegames (luke morse?) suggests to cut your own belt from a piece of rubber. But he also unscrewed everything when he replaced the belt so I don't know how reliable he is.
I've seen the videos and had a hearty laugh. making your own belt is asking for disaster to strike, and adjusting the head position is more-so. When I service drives, I tear them down completely and restore every part, so unscrewing everything isn't a matter for concern. Cutting your own rubber belt as he did though is the cheapest way to make your drive unusable. These things rely on precise timing and calibration of all the components, and if it's off even a little, some (if not many or all) games won't load.
Most of these how-tos are done by people citing the same original sources and FAQs, written by people (outside Nippon) who were tinkering that simply don't understand how the FDS is calibrated. I've serviced hundreds of drives and I'll admit though, the cancerous spread of mis-information is good for me... I charge extra for additional services, like recalibrating (or sometimes completely replacing) the head after a user messes it up.
I repeat: The only drives that I've serviced that required me to recalibrate the head position were drives where the customer or previous owner tinkered with it before sending it to me. In those cases, the sealing wax was already clearly broken... If the seal is intact, leave it alone! (Unless of course, you prefer to have a Nintendo doorstop.)
If you ever decide to give upon it, and want it serviced or wish to buy a restored drive mechanism (less expensive to post back and forth across the Atlantic), let me know. :bomb:
I fixed it. Just needed to fasten all the screws (I'm lazy).
I have a bit of a problem with my AV Famicom. The sound has gone completely kaputt and now only emits a loud buzzing noise. I checked the connection with the AV cables and the TV and that's definitely not the problem. I believe the cables aren't properly connected to the console (not an expert on the matter, TBH) and need to be soldered to it again. I'd check this, but as far as I'm aware I can't open the console without a special screwdriver end which I don't have.
If you've already ruled out bad AV cables and a bad TV, then you'll have to get the special bit and take it apart.
EDIT: Do you mean an AV-modded original Famicom, or an AV Famicom? ???
It must be an AV Famicom as a normal famicom has normal philips screws.
Look for a special bit usually called "gamebit" for your screwdriver, there are 2 sizes (3.8mm and 4.5mm) and they are used for many consoles. You will have too google it though.
Also make sure it is long and thin enough to be able to reach the screws.
Quote from: Cheetahmen on May 15, 2011, 02:42:25 pm
I believe the cables aren't properly connected to the console (not an expert on the matter, TBH) and need to be soldered to it again.
^This is what confused me. I think I know what he meant (cold solder joint), but that isn't necessarily what he said by saying the "cables aren't properly connected." He probably meant "the female RCA jack may not be correctly connected (broken solder joint/connection) inside the console." See the difference? ;) Otherwise, correctly connect the AV cable or try a new one. And yes, I agree about the regular screws on a normal Famicom,
unless someone replaced them with different screws.
It's an AV-modded Famicom. I can't open it because the modder added an extra screw which requires the Gamebit. When I get that, I might be able to elaborate on the problem.
hi famicom world :)
i'm hoping someone maybe able to help me as i'm pulling my hair out, i recently got given a famicom and i have a pal tv, i tried the av mod but i'm not getting any audio or video, i'm getting the right voltage to the mother board and 5v at the chips but nothing not even buzzing from the speaker, is there anything i can try?
the mother board is a hvc-cpu-07
many thanks in advance :)
Now that I've got my Gamebit, I managed to open the Famicom to see what's wrong. Not much from what I've noticed, and I certainly can't tell what the problem is. :-\ I'll post these photos in case they're any help.
Spoiler
(http://i54.tinypic.com/abpa1w.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/155nf68.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2quugcj.jpg)
Edit: I have no idea how it happened, but when I put the cover back on the sound started working again. I suppose I won't need any more help. ;D :crazy:
Edit 2: OK, apparently putting the screws back in managed to mess it up again. I'm confused. >:(
@ cheetahmen - could be pressure on the wire, while the backs off with the famicom on with a game in press lightly on the black part of the red and white wires.
Post Merge: June 02, 2011, 12:50:44 pm
i have checked the chip voltage again and its nearly 7 volts on all of them, the voltage regulator is also outputting 7.1volts, not sure what i did wrong before :-[ is the voltage regulator duff?
Quote from: ricky on June 02, 2011, 12:46:54 pm
@ cheetahmen - could be pressure on the wire, while the backs off with the famicom on with a game in press lightly on the black part of the red and white wires.
So how would I able to fix that? Re-solder the wires to the console or something?
Could be the voltage regulator (what is the number on printed on it?), or it could be your multimeter. They're cheap, so you might as well replace it.
More than likely the intermittant sound is a bad solder joint or a broken wire in the RCA cable.
Quote from: Cheetahmen on June 02, 2011, 01:10:09 pm
So how would I able to fix that? Re-solder the wires to the console or something?
Replace the RCA cable with a new/different one. But, I'd check the solder connections first--one of them looks suspect from your pics.
Quote from: ericjQuote from: Cheetahmen on June 02, 2011, 01:10:09 pm
So how would I able to fix that? Re-solder the wires to the console or something?
Replace the RCA cable with a new/different one. But, I'd check the solder connections first--one of them looks suspect from your pics.
Would that be the connection with the red and white cables? That one doesn't look quite right to me.
That's the one I was thinking of, but it would be a good idea to check them all.
Will do. Of course, it's finding a soldering iron that's the problem. :P
Quote from: ericj on June 02, 2011, 01:13:43 pm
Could be the voltage regulator (what is the number on printed on it?), or it could be your multimeter. They're cheap, so you might as well replace it.
part number is lm7805, just tried it with another meter and its 7.1volts again :(
Are you checking the correct leg and using the right setting on the dmm? If so, replace it. It should be 5v.
Post Merge: June 04, 2011, 06:21:15 am
right i replaced the voltage regulator and have audio and video with the av mod ;D slight problem i have now though is i have quite bad jail bars, i'm using a bc548b transistor and i am missing the 75 resistor from this plan, they didn't have any in stock but have ordered some from ebay,
(http://usuarios.lycos.es/dogbert/img/famavmod.gif)
I have problem with a disk system (actually two, maybe it's the same problem).
The little screw that supposed to be seal with red stuff, it is a bit loose so it can be turned. So since nothing else seems wrong, I have turned it a bit, but it hasn't helped and I'm not sure what to do next.
How sensitive is that reading head? If it has been moved a bit once, it is possible for a person like me without a micrometer to set it straight?
Edit: I seemed to have fixed it a little, turns out that I had placed the reading head in the exact opposite position that it should have been, and now it works (some of the times). So I suppose the position of little red screw isn't hyper sensite.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/16/12062011204.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/233/12062011205.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/691/12062011206.jpg/
This is the board of my av modded famicom
For some reason, the video is all screwed up: wrong colors, distorted picture or like occupying the upper half of the screen, appearing cut off.
Would like to extend the famicom controller wires but is there any good candidate wire that is good to use?
I'm not to bad with a soldering iron :)
Needs to be done its driving me nuts :crazy:
US NES or SNES controllers have pretty long cables with the right amount of wires and a very similar look & feel. You could get a pair of trashed controllers for cheap to cannibalize their cables.
You can also buy multi-core cable at an electronics store, but most of the time it won't the right color or thickness to match video game controller cables. YMMV.
Thanks 133mhz i'll keep my eyes open next time i'm down the flea market :)
Hi guys,
Extended the controller wires but when i put everything back to test them i think i might have shorted an ic, the ground wire from the av mod most have come lose and when i had a look the ground wire was connecting two pins of the 74ls373 :'(
All ic's are getting 5v, could this have shorted the chip as there is no video or sound and i've replaced the transistor, resistors and cap :(
Does any of the ICs get hot to the touch?
The ppu does but only a little bit more then my nes ppu.
Does anyone have a basic list of troubleshooting steps for the original famicom?
I've got an FC that displays a different colored screen depending on the cart I throw in. Sometimes I get random display of letters on the side of the screen, matrix style!
Any thoughts here greatly appreciated.
dave
Well, I think it is broken. :-\
You could try opening it and give everything a good rub with alcohol or some other cleaning fluid for electronics.
I think it's dirty, check both your cart and the pin slot.
Quote from: RGJdave on June 27, 2011, 07:07:28 pm
Does anyone have a basic list of troubleshooting steps for the original famicom?
I've got an FC that displays a different colored screen depending on the cart I throw in. Sometimes I get random display of letters on the side of the screen, matrix style!
Any thoughts here greatly appreciated.
dave
Basic flowchart for this problem:
Clean cartridge.cassette slot.
Check PPU
Check CPU
Check SRAM
Hi Guys,
Having a problem with hyper sports and hyper olympic on my scopian 8, i can select player but controls don't work on ether game, it just seems to be these games, is there any known problems with these games on clones?
Not gonna have my famicom motherboard back until next week so can't test on that and the power joy i brought from ebay has packed up :'( not having much luck with any fami stuff :(
Cheers
Nick
i'm pretty sure the Famicom versions of Hyper Sports and Hyper Olympic both need the special Konami controller. your best bet is probably to find a pirate cart, the US Track & Field (which combines both games and doesn't need the controller) is really really common on multicarts. I'd imagine even pirates of the Japanese versions would be hacked to use standard controllers.
Crap i didn't know they needed there own controller :'( wonder if i can make one :question:
Thanks for the info mrdomino :)
Well here's a pic of the controller, wonder how it's wired :question:
Post Merge: July 04, 2011, 02:23:57 am
(http://media.strategywiki.org/images/4/47/Hyper_Shot_control.jpg)
FWIW, they're quite common in Japan.
http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n98663478
http://page18.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/w63361528
http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e112115588
I could be wrong, but don't you just plug them into the port at the front of the console?
I think he was referring to the internal wiring of the controllers.
Thanks for the links fredj :)
Sorry hows its wired on the inside :) i have a box full of arcade stuff and abs boxes so would be nice to make one :) only thing i'm worried about is would it work on my scopian 8 famiclone :question:
Depends on how its controller ports are wired up I think. the Konami controller connects to the Famicom expansion port, and looking at pics of the Scorpion it seems to have two 15-pin ports on the front - the Famicom expansion uses the same kind of connector, so I guess its possible one of the ports might double up as both a standard controller port and an expansion port.
Thanks mrdomino, i think i might try and find the track and field famicom cart like you say and get the controller nearer my birthday and save a few pennys for games ;D
So, I got an AV Famicom recently but it stopped turning on after a couple days. Turns out that the guy sent me the NES AC adapter to use with it and I wasn't aware of how bad that is.
I just opened it up now and there are a couple suspicious-looking things - some caramel-colored goo in the upper-right corner (controller ports pointing toward me) that appears to trail a bit further toward the middle of the console, and some sticky stuff on the motherboard. I can't get a very good look at any of the parts under the metal cover, but I'm not sure if that can be removed since it appears to be screwed on from underneath. I figure there has to be some way to salvage this thing, but I'm very new to this and don't even know what all the parts are inside.
Any help would be appreciated! I could try a webcam stream if you think that might help. Thanks in advance!
EDIT: I should also mention that there was more brownish sticky stuff to the left of the motherboard.
First thing to do is get ya self and power pack and start from there, chances are it might have fried the power regulator, its on the power/rf board, think the part number is 7808 but could be wrong, the power from the power pack goes through the power reg at 10 or 12volt and outputs 5v or a tiny bit over.
Do you mean a proper AC adapter, or something else? If it's the former I've tried that, if it's the latter I have no idea where to find anything like that.
Check that the AC adapter works by either trying it on a known good console (try it on your NES if you have one) or test it with a DMM. If it works, check the voltage at the 7805 regulator (BTW, a 7808 regulator would output 8V, not 5V; 78XX outputs a Positive voltage--a 79XX outputs a Negative one; the last two digits are the output voltage). There's also a fuse on the power board that could have blown. You can easily bypass it with a wire or solder in a different one.
If you could post some pics, you could probably get better help.
I would guess that the start pad wore down, and he swapped the button over: i've seeen that before.
The 1-Player controller's 'Start/Select' button pads are identical t those on a NES. (So are the 2-player, save that it doesn't use the 'Start/Select' button pads because...well..you know.) You can buy a kit of new (reproduction) pads and replace them, which will also give you a spare cross-button pad and A/B pad.
Chances are, if you don.t already need to either restore or replace them, you will one day, so you'll have a new set as spares. Alternatively, often the pads are sold in sets for two USA controllers, so you can buy a set, replace your 'Start/Select' button pads and have a full set for later use on another Famicom if you need them, as 2x each 'Crosspad', 'Start/Select' and 'A/B' pads minus one 'Start/Select' pad equals a full Famicom set.
These replacement kits are all-over ebay and Amazon for under $10, which is a deal less than another controller will cost, and you never know what may or may not be working on that. If you JUST want a 'Start/Select' button pair, I can sell you s used one for $2 plus postage. In fact, i can sell you the 'Start' or 'Select' button by itself if you ever need just half of a pad.
I usually restore the pads on controllers with a special compound and a lot of practice. This is handy on SBFC units, were the buttons are almost always in need of TLC to prevent them from developing 'dangling tooth' syndrome. I restored a set on a Square-Button unit that I sold a while back and took photos of the 'after' part. I forgot to take photos of the 'before', as the buttons were detached from the pad assembly and I needed to re-build them. From the outside, and during play, you wouldn't know that anything was ever dome to them: They look perfect. You can see the restoration from the inside of the controller, as I also re-enforced them tl prevent them from breaking ever again. 8)
.
You may also want to clean your 2P microphone contacts and adjust the prongs; If you hear a buzzing sound, that's where it's originating. Anyhow, you have plenty of options Ig you want to reach me by phone, you can ring me at (+1) 260-FDS-DISK (260-337-3475) anytime. Feel free to peruse my very incomplete catalogue here (http://atariusa.com/flashback/index.php?cat=40). Take a look at the section marked 'System Restoration' and the one marked 'Custom /Modified Systems' to get an insight into the magic that I do over here.
Keep in mind that I have (4,164) photos in that on-line catalogue, out of over 275,000 items in stock, about 10,000 to 12,000 of which are Famicom-related. As I generally take multiple photos (views) of every object in the catalogue, we can cut the number of actual items u there by 50% to (2,082) items, and drop that by 200 for photos of non-inventory stuff, like the NESpander and stuff from my private collection. That means that a mere 0.7% of my inventory is actually represented in the catalogue at this time. Of that, only 8% to 10% of my Famicom inventory is up there. If you don.t see it, ask. I probably have it; or can get it if it's out-of-stock.
I used to have a printed catalogue with over 50,000 items in it, but it's fifteen-years out of date, so I started fresh and it'll take a very-long time to get everything on-line..or as much as is humanly possible and feasible. :bomb:
OK, my brother got some pics of the fried Famicom, can only do a couple per post so it'll be a couple more in a row...
EDIT: Won't let me post any more since these 3 add up to around 1mb...what? Hopefully this should be ok for now.
Quote from: Spudman on July 04, 2011, 02:13:07 am
Crap i didn't know they needed there own controller :'( wonder if i can make one :question:
Thanks for the info mrdomino :)
Well here's a pic of the controller, wonder how it's wired :question:
Post Merge: July 04, 2011, 02:23:57 am
(http://media.strategywiki.org/images/4/47/Hyper_Shot_control.jpg)
They don't
need the controller, but they play better with them. these controllers simulate the arcade set-up and were also included with the Atari, Apple and other home versions, though the non-FC controller is bigger, blue and had more arcade-like buttons.
--
I really hate this thread... I reply to a technical question in another thread, and that thread is post-merged into this mess to the point where it makes no sense. This is why I think FW would benefit from a Technical Support & Discussions forum section, where people could maintain individual threads on subjects to which other people reply without making it entirely unmanageable.
I rarely even read this thread because it gets far too confusing to follow with so many questions and unquoted replies plus post-merges with no quotations. It's simply impossible to follow in any linear manner.
Additionally, once a post is merged here, the people asking questions often think their post was removed, or can't identify the replies to it; and people who might search the forum for a reply to their question before posting it tend to ignore anything in this thread, which creates more help topics in the main forum, that get post-merged, and the problem escalates.
I just don.t understand the motivation/logic of having one long, confusing thread rather than a separate forum panel with organized threads on individual topics. The common stuff (like PSU questions and solutions to damaging your system) can even be sticky-topics that way. I've asked for this before, but had no real satisfactory response on why it doesn't exist. :bomb:
Solutions to damaging your system? What kind of info would be included in this sticky?
My situation is a bit unique - I'm supposed to play Wai Wai World on a Japanese stream a week from now, but I am not sure how to go about repairing the Famicom (see pics and my previous posts above).
EDIT: That converter I received is actually an FC->NES one so never mind there.
Post Merge: July 09, 2011, 04:45:17 pm
OK, an update on the fried AV Famicom from page 97:
There's a local game store that does repairs, and we replaced the voltage regulator with a fresh new 7805 from Radio Shack. However, it still won't turn on at all. We had also looked at the capacitors, and none of them were leaking. On the plus side, he didn't charge me since it isn't working - very nice guy and cool place he has!
So, where do I go from here? Would love to get this fixed ASAP, since I'm supposed to speedrun Wai Wai World on stream in a week and am also borrowing someone's Japanese Castlevania 3 cart to do a speedrun for SDA...
EDIT: A friend of mine who's familiar with these things thinks it might be an issue with the board itself since there's sticky stuff on it. Any ideas there? Also, someone else said if there's a fuse it's blown - does the AV Fami have anything like that?
Hey. Can anyone who owns my version NES->FC adapter test Mega Man 2 US on an AV Famicom? It seems the game is glitching upon viewing the stage select screen. Normally crashes after a split second. But there's just enough time to accept controller input. Pressing start on in the middle resets the game. Attempting to enter a stage begins the sequence then near immediately crashes.
Just showing pictures to best spell out the combo in question.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff253/TheDrakon/nes%20to%20famicom/famicomtones.jpg)(http://www.lukiegames.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/NES/Thumbnail/megaman2cart_tmb.gif&maxx=150&maxy=0)(http://www.vintagecomputing.com/wp-content/images/avfamicom/avfamicom_1_small.jpg)
So I think I'm going to get a multimeter right now and take a look at the Famicom. Thing is, I'm not sure how to remove the shielding myself since it's screwed on from underneath and there isn't much room to work with there.
Quote from: funkdoc on July 09, 2011, 12:35:15 pm
Solutions to damaging your system? What kind of info would be included in this sticky?
My situation is a bit unique - I'm supposed to play Wai Wai World on a Japanese stream a week from now, but I am not sure how to go about repairing the Famicom (see pics and my previous posts above).
EDIT: That converter I received is actually an FC->NES one so never mind there.
Post Merge: July 09, 2011, 04:45:17 pm
OK, an update on the fried AV Famicom from page 97:
There's a local game store that does repairs, and we replaced the voltage regulator with a fresh new 7805 from Radio Shack. However, it still won't turn on at all. We had also looked at the capacitors, and none of them were leaking. On the plus side, he didn't charge me since it isn't working - very nice guy and cool place he has!
So, where do I go from here? Would love to get this fixed ASAP, since I'm supposed to speedrun Wai Wai World on stream in a week and am also borrowing someone's Japanese Castlevania 3 cart to do a speedrun for SDA...
EDIT: A friend of mine who's familiar with these things thinks it might be an issue with the board itself since there's sticky stuff on it. Any ideas there? Also, someone else said if there's a fuse it's blown - does the AV Fami have anything like that?
The VCCI Famicom has a fuse, and I think all models after it, including all revisions of the new (A/V) Famicom have one as well. You should check for this along the path of the VCC conduit from the 7805 to the rest of the PCB and also on the input-end of the 7805. I don.t recall off-hand where it is in either the NFC and SFC models, though II should
If I get a chance, I'll check.
The sticky substance could be anything: From isotonic spillage (e.g. Pepsi) or leaking capacitors (unlikely) See if it dissolves in hot water, or reacts to baking soda on a Q-tip. You need to determine the PH of the substance if you want anyone to ID it from appearance: I'd wager on some beverage becoming one with the force of your system. In such a case, there may be other internal damage, and as you do not know if it worked before using an 9VAC power supply on it, it's pretty difficult to offer any real opinions on it.
m
You should test to see if the VCC signal is reaching any of the system components. Look up the pin-out for the PPU ans CPU and use a multi-metre to check conductivity and current between the +5VCD pins on these components and ground (CE). :bomb:
OK, here's the part I forgot to explain, which is apparently the weirdest thing about all of this:
The Famicom worked the first day I had it. Yes, even with that AC adapter, I was able to play Wai Wai World for a bit over an hour. Furthermore, the following day, I managed to turn it on again and did one complete playthrough (~40 minutes). There were no other problems with the Famicom while it was working. When I turned it off after that, it was RIP.
This is why I'm beginning to wonder if there isn't a deeper issue with the motherboard or something - I haven't seen another example on here of anyone playing a complete game with the wrong AC adapter.
One other idea: I notice a green part to the right of the reset button which looks like a capacitor but doesn't have a lid like them. Is that normal?
Thanks for the help!
Post Merge: July 10, 2011, 10:57:17 am
Update: got the multimeter, it appears to work fine, but I don't know how exactly I'm supposed to use it with the Famicom board. I know it's supposed to be plugged in, but do I check the front or underside of the board? I can't remove the metal heat sink (got one last screw that won't budge with anything I have) so I have no idea how I'm supposed to be able to get these things to reach the 7805. Thanks in advance!
Post Merge: July 10, 2011, 12:32:39 pm
Never mind about the last part, I was able to test the 7805 and it's working perfectly.
I cleaned all the gunk (agreeing more and more that it's probably soda) off the board and happened to notice something else suspicious:
EDIT: OK, I guess that stuff isn't soda after all. It smelled burnt as I cleaned it off the board, and I noticed there are little ridges (like you'd see in folded plastic) on the board. I question whether this thing can be saved at all...
Update: I can confirm that Mega Man 2 error does not happen on my NES powerpak. Something else is going on. Perhaps dirt remaining I failed to remove?
Hello everyone. :)
(From the start, excuse my english, maybe I sound weird, it's not my birth langage).
So, this question have been already asked but even if I searched here I didn't really find my answer.
I just bought from ebay a modded AV famicom (the original Famicom but with an AV output) and I was very happy but it doesn't work on my TV.
It's a CRT Tv, I live in Canada, so it's a NTSC Tv, like in the USA.
The console show a really bad picture on the screen, the colors seem to be messed up and the picture not always shows itself (I got a black screen sometime). The picture is quite wavy too.
The sound is alright.
My Famicom is modded to support AV, the AV cable is linked into the system (so it's impossible to unplug it and try another one).
My Tv can display a japanese N64 just perfectly.
I really hope there is some way to fix this ! :(
If you need more infos, just ask. Please help me ! :-[
I can provide photo of the screen to show you or photo of my system.
Thank you !
Likely enough, it was improperly modified. That, or it was damaged in handling when importing it from Nippon, or from wherever you purchased it. :bomb: