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Other Gaming / Re: GBA (Not SP) Aftermarket B...
Last post by P - December 19, 2025, 01:57:08 pmQuote from: Jedi Master Baiter on December 16, 2025, 11:34:06 pmit was missing a 'B' button.Ugh, not fun when they make mistakes like that.
Quote from: Jedi Master Baiter on December 16, 2025, 11:34:06 pmNext, I tried the Retrosix Prestige buttons with their membranes. There is a clear difference! They feel 'mushier,' they are hard to press, and feel like there's resistance like springs pushing back. It's hard to tell if I like this better or not.Hmm, doesn't sound too good. I think for buttons to perform well in video games they should have very little pressure resistance (but not so little that they engage by merely touching them), minimally tactile (but still have some tactility), a pretty short throw and minimal contact bounce (not a big problem in video games though).
Only arcade buttons achieves that ideal level of performance but the controller should have something in that direction.
Quote from: Jedi Master Baiter on December 16, 2025, 11:34:06 pmA big problem right now is, there is a clean amp pro mod that seemed to be working fine until I opened it.This might not be the hardware's fault. I have an Everdrive for Game Boy and it's just very noisy in the menu where you select the game for some reason, it's the most noticable on my GBC because it supposedly has a very noisy DAC, but it's audible on other systems too. Probably whoever programmed the flashcart menu forgot to mute the APU (for better or for worse). Shouldn't matter as long as it's not noisy when running a game.Now I can hear a weird noise when loading my game from my flashcart. Maybe this was there the entire time and I didn't notice it? (it can also be heard on an unmodded GBASP). There's supposed to be an anti-hiss mod done to this, but I can't tell where.
Quote from: Jedi Master Baiter on December 16, 2025, 11:34:06 pmEdit:OK that sounds much better.
Now I tried the Funnyplaying buttons combined with the Retrosix Prestige membranes. Immediately I didn't like how hard the On/Off switch was to move, so I switched it out for whatever On/Off switch was included when I got the mod. The d-pad is now clicky, but not too clicky: it doesn't feel like there's two clicks, there's significant resistance, but it feels just right. The A/B buttons, however, do have that double click, but it's not terrible. Still, I'm going to experiment with those.
Quote from: Jedi Master Baiter on December 16, 2025, 11:34:06 pmAnother issue that came up now, is I'm noticing light bleed on the left side of the screen. The shell is opaque, but I can see light escaping underneath. Maybe this is because I'm only putting in half the screws?Yeah maybe, did you put in screws only on the left side?I hope so.
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Other Gaming / Re: GBA (Not SP) Aftermarket B...
Last post by Jedi Master Baiter - December 16, 2025, 11:34:06 pmSo I finally had the chance to take it apart (had to buy another tri-point screwdriver 
) and I'm still going through the different buttons/membranes.
First I tried what I think were the OEM buttons and their membrane. First of all, it was missing a 'B' button. Second, it feels much the same as whatever buttons were on it before, so pass.
Next, I tried the Retrosix Prestige buttons with their membranes. There is a clear difference! They feel 'mushier,' they are hard to press, and feel like there's resistance like springs pushing back. It's hard to tell if I like this better or not. I wish I had more time to test this. This is going to be a Christmas gift for someone.
A big problem right now is, there is a clean amp pro mod that seemed to be working fine until I opened it. Now I can hear a weird noise when loading my game from my flashcart. Maybe this was there the entire time and I didn't notice it? (it can also be heard on an unmodded GBASP). There's supposed to be an anti-hiss mod done to this, but I can't tell where.
Edit:
Now I tried the Funnyplaying buttons combined with the Retrosix Prestige membranes. Immediately I didn't like how hard the On/Off switch was to move, so I switched it out for whatever On/Off switch was included when I got the mod. The d-pad is now clicky, but not too clicky: it doesn't feel like there's two clicks, there's significant resistance, but it feels just right. The A/B buttons, however, do have that double click, but it's not terrible. Still, I'm going to experiment with those.
Another issue that came up now, is I'm noticing light bleed on the left side of the screen. The shell is opaque, but I can see light escaping underneath. Maybe this is because I'm only putting in half the screws? I hope so.
) and I'm still going through the different buttons/membranes.First I tried what I think were the OEM buttons and their membrane. First of all, it was missing a 'B' button.
Second, it feels much the same as whatever buttons were on it before, so pass.Next, I tried the Retrosix Prestige buttons with their membranes. There is a clear difference! They feel 'mushier,' they are hard to press, and feel like there's resistance like springs pushing back. It's hard to tell if I like this better or not. I wish I had more time to test this. This is going to be a Christmas gift for someone.
A big problem right now is, there is a clean amp pro mod that seemed to be working fine until I opened it.
Now I can hear a weird noise when loading my game from my flashcart. Maybe this was there the entire time and I didn't notice it? (it can also be heard on an unmodded GBASP). There's supposed to be an anti-hiss mod done to this, but I can't tell where.Edit:
Now I tried the Funnyplaying buttons combined with the Retrosix Prestige membranes. Immediately I didn't like how hard the On/Off switch was to move, so I switched it out for whatever On/Off switch was included when I got the mod. The d-pad is now clicky, but not too clicky: it doesn't feel like there's two clicks, there's significant resistance, but it feels just right. The A/B buttons, however, do have that double click, but it's not terrible. Still, I'm going to experiment with those.
Another issue that came up now, is I'm noticing light bleed on the left side of the screen. The shell is opaque, but I can see light escaping underneath. Maybe this is because I'm only putting in half the screws?
I hope so. 13
Famicom / Disk System / Re: List of Game Genie codes
Last post by jpx72 - December 07, 2025, 04:38:38 amAh okay I did a quick search and found a couple, so will try these. For anyone else interested:
https://www.romhacking.net/utilities/1054/
https://www.romhacking.net/utilities/784/
https://www.romhacking.net/utilities/1054/
https://www.romhacking.net/utilities/784/
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Famicom / Disk System / Re: List of Game Genie codes
Last post by UglyJoe - December 06, 2025, 10:02:46 pmThere are a few utilities for making GG codes permanent. I haven't used any of them, but that's what I would recommend for this one.
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Famicom / Disk System / Re: List of Game Genie codes
Last post by jpx72 - December 06, 2025, 10:35:56 amHello can you help me insert the Solbrain code inside the rom?
This is the info for the codes:
SZNEPUSE
Value AD
Compare 8D
Adress 0379
SZEZAESE
Value AD
Compare 8D
Adress 2000
The game is mapper 4, both PRG and CHR are 256kB each.
UglyJoe you one wrote you have to add the ines header size to the adress and substract prg size, but that was a rom without bankswitching. Can you please guide me? Thank you!
This is the info for the codes:
SZNEPUSE
Value AD
Compare 8D
Adress 0379
SZEZAESE
Value AD
Compare 8D
Adress 2000
The game is mapper 4, both PRG and CHR are 256kB each.
UglyJoe you one wrote you have to add the ines header size to the adress and substract prg size, but that was a rom without bankswitching. Can you please guide me? Thank you!
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Buy / Sell / Trade / WTB: Asder 20 in 1 cart
Last post by kynikos - December 06, 2025, 07:38:48 amHi all, does anyone happen to have an Asder 20 in 1 cart they'd sell? Shipping would be to the USA.
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Famicom / Disk System / Re: Scan Requests (label, cove...
Last post by jpx72 - December 05, 2025, 12:03:55 amSolbrain JAP
Couldnt find a scan so did some magic with AI and photos of the cart on eBay. For anyone interested:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t9rL8HSEvDuLOsTQGB1facw8zz9Ksq-b/view?usp=sharing
Couldnt find a scan so did some magic with AI and photos of the cart on eBay. For anyone interested:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t9rL8HSEvDuLOsTQGB1facw8zz9Ksq-b/view?usp=sharing
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Famicom / Disk System / Anyone knows who did Ninja Gai...
Last post by jpx72 - December 04, 2025, 11:19:27 pmA friend sent me these photos, would like to know more about it, anyone heard about it? Looking for the source. Thanks!
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Technical & Repair Assistance / Re: Playing Famicom games on P...
Last post by P - December 04, 2025, 01:59:08 pm1. RGB is not NTSC. NTSC, PAL and SECAM are 3 variants of composite video which are 3 types of color encoding of the video signal (for broadcast reasons). RGB means colors are not encoded at all and is therefore universal (as long as you have a TV with an RGB connector). The Famicom's video hardware only outputs composite though not RGB.
You will need an AV-modded Famicom (or the AV Famicom or Twin Famicom since they both have composite out) anyway because the original Famicom only offers RF (which is an NTSC composite video signal modulated into a radio frequency signal) which means you need a Japanese RF-demodulator to demodulate it into NTSC composite. Even American NTSC TV-sets sometimes have problems with Japanese RF, and PAL TV-sets absolutely does not support it AFAIK, this is true even for PAL TV-sets that fully supports NTSC composite through the AV connectors.
But yeah NTSC composite will still not work as is on most CRT PAL TV-sets. Many CRT PAL TV-sets do support 60 Hz, but not the NTSC color decoding so the picture will display correctly but in black & white in such cases.
If your TV only supports 50 Hz the picture will be totally unwatchable, it's not a matter of running the game in the wrong speed, it will be 100% unplayable.
It should be possible to convert NTSC into 60 Hz RGB (with some quality loss) but I'm not aware of any such adapters. The French NES actually do this because it was cheaper than making a SECAM NES and Frenchmen usually had RGB SCART already back then (SCART is a French invention).
There are NTSC<>PAL-adapters though, they are not perfect but they may work good enough for you. I guess they may require a 60 Hz PAL TV if they only decode the NTSC colors into PAL colors. Converting 60 Hz to 50 Hz isn't possible without some sort of timing issue.
2. Most classic Famiclones like Dendy and Pegasus are actually PAL with some things in common with the NTSC Famicom/NES. I think modern NOAC Famiclones are also based on those and has the same faults.
I don't really have any personal experience with Famiclones myself though.
You will need an AV-modded Famicom (or the AV Famicom or Twin Famicom since they both have composite out) anyway because the original Famicom only offers RF (which is an NTSC composite video signal modulated into a radio frequency signal) which means you need a Japanese RF-demodulator to demodulate it into NTSC composite. Even American NTSC TV-sets sometimes have problems with Japanese RF, and PAL TV-sets absolutely does not support it AFAIK, this is true even for PAL TV-sets that fully supports NTSC composite through the AV connectors.
But yeah NTSC composite will still not work as is on most CRT PAL TV-sets. Many CRT PAL TV-sets do support 60 Hz, but not the NTSC color decoding so the picture will display correctly but in black & white in such cases.
If your TV only supports 50 Hz the picture will be totally unwatchable, it's not a matter of running the game in the wrong speed, it will be 100% unplayable.
It should be possible to convert NTSC into 60 Hz RGB (with some quality loss) but I'm not aware of any such adapters. The French NES actually do this because it was cheaper than making a SECAM NES and Frenchmen usually had RGB SCART already back then (SCART is a French invention).
There are NTSC<>PAL-adapters though, they are not perfect but they may work good enough for you. I guess they may require a 60 Hz PAL TV if they only decode the NTSC colors into PAL colors. Converting 60 Hz to 50 Hz isn't possible without some sort of timing issue.
2. Most classic Famiclones like Dendy and Pegasus are actually PAL with some things in common with the NTSC Famicom/NES. I think modern NOAC Famiclones are also based on those and has the same faults.
I don't really have any personal experience with Famiclones myself though.
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Famicom / Disk System / Re: Scan Requests (label, cove...
Last post by P - December 04, 2025, 01:08:48 pmThanks! I've long been looking for Metal Slader Glory! 