31
Other Gaming / Re: GBA (Not SP) Aftermarket B...
Last post by P - November 04, 2025, 04:00:50 pmTwo clicks huh? That's pretty weird. I would guess it's using cheap membranes... Do the buttons look any different from original ones?
I have the original GBA and the SP, both unmodded. My original GBA has buttons similar to the Famicom controller or other typical Nintendo controllers (so not clicky at all), perhaps even a bit more mushy than the Famicom buttons. They are not as mushy as the buttons of certain really cheap poor quality controllers though.
The SP has indeed kinda clicky buttons, they are not microswitch-clicky but definitely more clicky than any previous Nintendo controller. I heard that they have very little contact bounce (which is considered a good property for buttons in general).
I have the original GBA and the SP, both unmodded. My original GBA has buttons similar to the Famicom controller or other typical Nintendo controllers (so not clicky at all), perhaps even a bit more mushy than the Famicom buttons. They are not as mushy as the buttons of certain really cheap poor quality controllers though.
The SP has indeed kinda clicky buttons, they are not microswitch-clicky but definitely more clicky than any previous Nintendo controller. I heard that they have very little contact bounce (which is considered a good property for buttons in general).
32
Other Gaming / GBA (Not SP) Aftermarket Butto...
Last post by Jedi Master Baiter - October 31, 2025, 07:44:26 pmSo I bought a GBA mod (IPS Screen, Speakers, Battery) and everything is awesome
...except the buttons. They are aftermarket, and it feels like there's extra distance to register a press. The d-pad is very noticeable: I'll tap a direction and nothing will happen, but if I push harder, I'll feel a hard 'click' and that's annoying to have to do.
Is this caused by the buttons or the membrane? Any aftermarket recommendations? Should I just find OEM buttons? OEM membranes? Both?
Edit: I'm used to the GBA SP buttons. I've read that original GBA buttons are 'mushy' compared to the 'clicky' SP. The problem is... these don't feel mushy. They feel clicky, but with more distance to travel to fully depress, and there's two clicks: first a soft click that doesn't register anything, and a second hard click that will actually register a press.
...except the buttons. They are aftermarket, and it feels like there's extra distance to register a press. The d-pad is very noticeable: I'll tap a direction and nothing will happen, but if I push harder, I'll feel a hard 'click' and that's annoying to have to do.
Is this caused by the buttons or the membrane? Any aftermarket recommendations? Should I just find OEM buttons? OEM membranes? Both?
Edit: I'm used to the GBA SP buttons. I've read that original GBA buttons are 'mushy' compared to the 'clicky' SP. The problem is... these don't feel mushy. They feel clicky, but with more distance to travel to fully depress, and there's two clicks: first a soft click that doesn't register anything, and a second hard click that will actually register a press.
33
Famicom / Disk System / Re: Do newer revision CPU/PPU ...
Last post by hippy dave - October 23, 2025, 04:49:28 amThanks, good info! Sounds like H would be a safer bet than G for that reason.
I'd still love to hear if anyone has any experience with this.
I'd still love to hear if anyone has any experience with this.
34
Famicom / Disk System / Re: Do newer revision CPU/PPU ...
Last post by P - October 22, 2025, 03:37:56 pmI don't really know but, it's entirely possible that some PPU revisions requires an extra resistor or something on a pin which another doesn't. It might be easiest if you look for HVC-CPU-07 boards with a newer PPU and also check that it doesn't have any new components around it.
HVC-CPU-07 and the rare HVC-CPU-08 mainly seems to be using PPU revision D and E from what I've seen, but I haven't looked very hard.
Nintendo sometimes swapped boards when doing repairs, so it's hard to say if it's the original board for the shell, for not mentioning the chance that a previous owner has repaired it.
The FF logo seems to mainly be used on newer Famicoms (probably GPM boards and later), but I doubt it can be guaranteed. If Nintendo's factories had a lot of the older boards lying around but only the newer shell, it would make the most sense to use the newer shell with the older board, as long as it fits.
Edit: Indeed the G-0 has a bug which requires some extra resistors according to this page.
HVC-CPU-07 and the rare HVC-CPU-08 mainly seems to be using PPU revision D and E from what I've seen, but I haven't looked very hard.
Nintendo sometimes swapped boards when doing repairs, so it's hard to say if it's the original board for the shell, for not mentioning the chance that a previous owner has repaired it.
The FF logo seems to mainly be used on newer Famicoms (probably GPM boards and later), but I doubt it can be guaranteed. If Nintendo's factories had a lot of the older boards lying around but only the newer shell, it would make the most sense to use the newer shell with the older board, as long as it fits.
Edit: Indeed the G-0 has a bug which requires some extra resistors according to this page.
35
Famicom / Disk System / Do newer revision CPU/PPU work...
Last post by hippy dave - October 19, 2025, 02:51:42 pmHello
So I quite recently got myself my first real Famicom, I went for a red & white one for the full retro *aesthetic*, bought it from a seller who did a nice clean up/refurb, mod for composite output and 5v USB input etc.
It's a revision 7 board (HVC-CPU-07) with revision E chips. It's working great, none of the glitches of the really old revisions, but the one thing it turns out I miss is the readable OAMDATA/palette RAM of the G/H revisions, because I got a (clone) everdrive and like the option of using save states. Reloading a save state will trash the palette and turn most stuff black, so is unusable during gameplay, I can work around for games where I save at a point where it's about to refresh it all (eg SMB lives remaining screen or Metroid password screen, before returning to gameplay) but not all games have a convenient moment like that, plus it would be nice to be able to use it at any arbitrary point.
So hypothetically would it work if I swapped revision G or H chips onto my revision 7 board? IDK if I'm committed to this idea yet but would be good to know my options. I'd probably put sockets in if I were doing it.
--
Tangential revision-related question while I'm here: I read in older threads that the red & white Famicoms that have the FF logo on the front sticker are always newer models that have a one-piece motherboard, whereas mine has the older design with the RF and power stuff on a separate board. It does have the FF logo on the sticker tho - is this a combination that actually happened back in the day, or is it more likely that the seller put a different sticker on? This one's just for curiosity.
Thanks!
So I quite recently got myself my first real Famicom, I went for a red & white one for the full retro *aesthetic*, bought it from a seller who did a nice clean up/refurb, mod for composite output and 5v USB input etc.
It's a revision 7 board (HVC-CPU-07) with revision E chips. It's working great, none of the glitches of the really old revisions, but the one thing it turns out I miss is the readable OAMDATA/palette RAM of the G/H revisions, because I got a (clone) everdrive and like the option of using save states. Reloading a save state will trash the palette and turn most stuff black, so is unusable during gameplay, I can work around for games where I save at a point where it's about to refresh it all (eg SMB lives remaining screen or Metroid password screen, before returning to gameplay) but not all games have a convenient moment like that, plus it would be nice to be able to use it at any arbitrary point.
So hypothetically would it work if I swapped revision G or H chips onto my revision 7 board? IDK if I'm committed to this idea yet but would be good to know my options. I'd probably put sockets in if I were doing it.
--
Tangential revision-related question while I'm here: I read in older threads that the red & white Famicoms that have the FF logo on the front sticker are always newer models that have a one-piece motherboard, whereas mine has the older design with the RF and power stuff on a separate board. It does have the FF logo on the sticker tho - is this a combination that actually happened back in the day, or is it more likely that the seller put a different sticker on? This one's just for curiosity.
Thanks!
36
Famicom / Disk System / Re: Best FC / Disk System Manu...
Last post by P - October 15, 2025, 12:46:31 pmYeah, the last known version of the game (disk version 0, game version 3) is supposedly disk-writer-exclusive so it makes sense that the last version of the manual is also disk-writer-exclusive.
37
Famicom / Disk System / Re: New Homebrew Game: The Leg...
Last post by P - October 15, 2025, 12:39:09 pmConsidering all the work hours it goes behind even a really simple and shitty game and the manufacturing costs (which doesn't change with the quality of the game), I don't find it puzzling that homebrewers sometimes would like to sell their work, just like any other artist.
Besides, these games are usually eventually dumped or leaked to the internet at some point.
I do wish the average quality of homebrew was a little higher though.
People that makes carts of and sell games made by someone else without permission is a serious problem however.
Besides, these games are usually eventually dumped or leaked to the internet at some point.
I do wish the average quality of homebrew was a little higher though.
People that makes carts of and sell games made by someone else without permission is a serious problem however.
38
Famicom / Disk System / Re: D-pad membranes
Last post by P - October 15, 2025, 12:18:44 pmWhat controller are they made for?
39
Famicom / Disk System / Re: D-pad membranes
Last post by gorgyrip - October 14, 2025, 03:48:11 pmAt least the ones I have don't work properly in an official famicom controller. The dpad is a little smaller, so the diagonals don't work.
40
Famicom / Disk System / Re: New Homebrew Game: The Leg...
Last post by portnoyd - October 12, 2025, 03:25:37 pmQuote from: fcgamer on October 12, 2025, 09:24:06 amHaving more game options is always better
Then people making these games need to release the ROMs for free if that's what really matters. Instead, people are incredibly tightwad'd when it comes to that... so people buy the physical game or pay for a ROM.
It's a hobby, not a business but we've got a metric fuckton of people who saw an opportunity to make money from it and went whole hog, at the hobbyist's detriment.
Too very quickly did it become about how many copies one could sell as opposed to enhancing the hobby with new games.
You were around like me when this was in its infancy. It was honestly better when no one cared. We were free to load a ROM or, god forbid, buy a game for five bucks and find a new favorite without someone trying to cash in on the process.
I will stand on this high horse forever: if everyone else can even have a quarter of the enjoyment I've received from NES (playing, collecting, community, etc), they should and monetizing everything puts an unnecessary barrier in front of that.
If hobbyists unilaterally released their ROMs for free along with physical sales, I would have no problem shucking physical copies for sale, but that isn't the case. When everything has a dollar sign attached, it limits options instead of increasing it.
I appreciate what you're doing because you're probably the most "pure" person doing this sort of thing because there's 100% love here for the system (people like bunnyboy were the exact opposite), but my only request would be releasing the ROM for free.
Also it's called Poo Panties ffs. Please, no, stop.