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| | |-+  Gimmick repro with sunsoft 5PB
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Author Topic: Gimmick repro with sunsoft 5PB  (Read 64960 times)
Elrinth
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« Reply #30 on: January 12, 2014, 02:35:26 PM »

Ahh yes you are right... I'll grab one closer to when I get salary so I know how much money I've got to live on Cheesy thank you for your help.
I already ordered a AY-chip now. Also ordered a desoldering pen (heats up and sucks in previous soldering tin) and some 0.5 mm soldering tin. I already have a soldering pen since before which has worked in previous projects.
Edit: Ordered an AY-3-8912 for $8.99

next question I have is what kind of eeproms will work, could you nudge me in the right direction? will these work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/WINBOND-W27E040-27E040-27C040-4MBIT-EEPROM-DIP-32-X-10pcs-/151094092021?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item232de8e0f5 or are they too large? can I use the same type of eeprom for PRG as for CHR?
I read someone used: 27c1001 128K for CHR and 27c020 256k for PRG.  Do you have to use the exact size eproms??

Edit: Threw away an order of an TL866A @ $62.48 (429 SEK) from China. Gonna take like a month until I recieve the product.
Ordered from here:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Lowest-Price-FreeShipping-100-Original-TL866A-Willem-BIOS-USB-Universal-Programmer-Support-ICSP-FLASH-EEPROM-SOP/817846_955323058.html

now I need the EEPROM-ICs, will the ones I specified above do (27c1001 128K for CHR and 27c020 256k for PRG)?
Edit:I ordered: 10x SST 27SF010 1Mbit EEPROM ($17.99) and 5x W27C020-70 2Mbit EEPROM ($9.99).

Also do I have to get some resistors or capacitors between the FMA-7 and the YM-IC? if so, how strong do they have to be?

@keropi: from what i can see on your pic you decided to just cut of the previous eproms instead of desoldering them. I've got a desoldering pen so I can actually remove the previous pins and reuse the slots, can I do this or will it not help since I need to connect the AY-chip?

Also I see you are using 5 resistors and one capacitor at 10 pikoFarad 16V. Gonna check what strength the resistors are in a moment, just need some guide somewhere because I forgot how to read ohms from the colours.
It looks like the resistors you are using are (i might be seeing wrong on red and orange, it's hard to tell):
(2x) orange, orange, red finally gold... which means: 3 , 3 , 100 , 5%... so 330 ohm +-5%
(2x) brown , black, orange finally gold... which means: 1 , 0 , 1000 , 5%... so 1000 ohm +-5%
(1x) brown , black, red finally gold... which means: 1 , 0 , 100 , 5%... so 100 ohm +-5%
I will need these resistors and caps aswell, or?

On the BarCodeWorld cart there is already 2 resistors (both are the same, but they are different in size, that doesn't matter right?):
(2x) brown , black , orange finally gold... which means: 1 , 0 , 1000 , 5%.. so 1000 ohm +-5%
« Last Edit: January 14, 2014, 02:56:58 PM by Elrinth » Logged
famifan
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« Reply #31 on: January 16, 2014, 09:36:23 AM »

On the BarCodeWorld cart there is already 2 resistors (both are the same, but they are different in size, that doesn't matter right?):
bigger size means bigger ability of power dissipation. But it's not your case Smiley
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keropi
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« Reply #32 on: January 16, 2014, 05:21:22 PM »

On my cart I used SST 27SF010 and 27SF020 eeproms, work really good and I am sure yours will work just fine.
The old mask roms were desoldered completely, I did not cut legs and solder on them btw , the pins you see on the back are the eeprom pins.

The values of the components are marked on the design I used, no need to count color bands:

3x 3.3K resistors
3x 1K resistors
1x 10uf/16v capacitor

You don't need any other resistors/caps and you don't need to mess with any on the Barcode World pcb. All the resistor/caps go to the audio mixing circuit.
Basically all you need is to follow the schematic, it explains everything very simply:



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Elrinth
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« Reply #33 on: January 16, 2014, 08:50:44 PM »

Oh okay, so I'll be needing the following IC modules aswell:
7474 and 74139

@7474 Will this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-x-74LS74-7474-Dual-D-Edge-Triggered-Flip-Flop-IC-/250887389729?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6a0dc221
or this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-74HC74N-7474-74HC74-Dual-D-Type-Flip-Flop-with-Set-and-Reset-DIP-14-/300730559747?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4604f02d03
work?

@74139 this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pcs-74LS139-74139-DUAL-2-LINE-TO-4-LINE-Decode-Demult-/110909834844?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d2bdc65c
work? Smiley

Do these things have to be programmed or are they preprogrammed logic ICs? Sorry I don't know much about electronics and I forgot most I learnt in school Cheesy

I'll be needing tons of thin cable aswell, but i think my big bro who works as electrician can fix that for me.
here's more YM chip incase I wanna create more than one gimmick cart:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261082832247&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en
« Last Edit: January 16, 2014, 09:06:56 PM by Elrinth » Logged
keropi
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« Reply #34 on: January 16, 2014, 10:19:18 PM »

yep those 74xxxx chips will work and they don't need any programming at all, just connect them correctly  Wink
As for cable you can always sacrifice an old IDE/FLOPPY computer cable  Grin
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Pit
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« Reply #35 on: January 17, 2014, 07:09:35 AM »

Thank you Keropi for the schemes Smiley.

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Elrinth
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« Reply #36 on: January 17, 2014, 09:42:37 AM »

awesome, I bought the above I wrote. Plus I ordered 100 3.3k resistors from: http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-x-Resistors-3-3K-3K3-Ohms-OHM-1-4W-5-Carbon-Film-/260830751104?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbab96980
and 100 1k resistors from: http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-x-Resistors-1K-Ohms-OHM-1-4W-5-Carbon-Film-/250870867251?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a6911a533
and capacitors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300553631232

$1.49 USD (10,05 SEK) for 100 x 3.3k ohm resistors
$1.49 USD (10,05 SEK) for 100 x 1k ohm resistors
$4.49 AUD (29,64 SEK) for 100 x 10uF/16v capacitors
$6,99 USD (47,13 SEK) for 10 x 7474 ICs
$3,50 USD (23,60 SEK) for 5 x 74139 ICs

Now I must have all the required gear finally, haha Smiley Thank you very much for the help keropi. I'll get back to this thread when stuff starts happening. Probably gonna take a month or two before I recieve the stuff as it was all free shipping.
« Last Edit: January 17, 2014, 09:52:15 AM by Elrinth » Logged
keropi
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« Reply #37 on: January 18, 2014, 12:56:56 PM »

heh, glad I could help , even if it's answering questions of you both...
I think it's jpx72 made that awesome gimmick schematic btw  Mario
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volk
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« Reply #38 on: January 22, 2014, 06:30:42 AM »

Make this spagetti monster  Cheesy Thx for idea.
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keropi
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« Reply #39 on: January 22, 2014, 01:39:36 PM »

great! a real 5B is indeed helpful...  Coin
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Pit
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« Reply #40 on: January 22, 2014, 01:55:46 PM »

Good job Volk Wink

5B is quite more simple to build^^. But it requires the luck to get one Red FC Cart

I compared my 5B and AY-8910/12 repros, 5B repro sounds better to my ears, all sounds are really weel balanced. Depending on the system used (famicom, famicom AV or Nes), AY repro has a few sounds weaker.

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volk
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« Reply #41 on: January 23, 2014, 08:19:40 AM »

Agreed. I compare my repro sound with original - they same!
Emulator videos and flash cartriges sounds different.
Completed repro:
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Pit
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« Reply #42 on: January 23, 2014, 08:33:27 AM »

Really good label Cheesy.


Post Merge: January 23, 2014, 08:47:44 AM
Here's mine :



and the NES version :



« Last Edit: January 23, 2014, 08:48:07 AM by Pit » Logged
xIceMan
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« Reply #43 on: October 08, 2015, 05:07:59 PM »

I hate to dig this topic up but I wanted to make a Dark Gimmick repro but the problem is, the Gremlins 2 Donor is Sunsoft 5A board and I've connected AY-3-8912 like this:


But the expansion sound still not there.
Do I have to connect anything to the 5A as well or won't this work?
What about Clock Pin? Does it only go the 74LS74?
Help appreciated.
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jensma
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« Reply #44 on: October 08, 2015, 07:16:19 PM »

What a strange coincidence, I'm planning to do a Gimmick repro with full sound too  Grin I'm currently waiting for the AY-3-8912 to arrive.

Have you seen this? http://i.imgur.com/nbbLp.jpg You could try to trace the wires, maybe that helps? - just realized it's a FME-7 donor, sorry

Did you noticed that the CHR and PRG are swapped? - edit: since you're able to test the game you obviously noticed that

nesdev got some info about the wiring, quite a long read, though: http://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3480 - edit: argh, it's about the FME-7, too.  Lips Sealed

Ah, have a look at this: http://i317.photobucket.com/albums/mm381/Tedescucci/GimmickAudio.jpg
Several pins are connected differently on that PCB  Shocked
« Last Edit: October 08, 2015, 08:24:54 PM by jensma » Logged

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