PAL-N Famiclone with generic 15-pin controllers unresponsive

Started by sys64738, January 31, 2024, 12:00:33 pm

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sys64738

Hi,

This is my first post here. I started to collect clones as I find the variety fascinating. I am relatively new to to NES/Famicom space. My last addition is from Argentina "SonSon Family Computer Game". It came with nothing. I connected a 10V 850mA 3rd party adapter meant for Genesis, and a pair of 15-pin generic controllers from AliExrpress. I set my TV to PAL-N. I got video and audio but no response from the controllers. What is my next move for troubleshooting? I have heard things like controllers being PAL/NTSC or region locked. Could it be the case? I have a small portable scope and a multimeter but not sure where to check. Thanks in advance.

Skawo

Check whether the controllers are wired up Famicom-style or Famiclone-style, because those are different, despite sharing the same plug.

https://www.nesdev.org/wiki/Controller_port_pinout
https://www.nesdev.org/wiki/Expansion_port


sys64738

Scope shows 60Hz for the CLK (pin 9) and OUT0 (pin 12) for the Player 1 port on the console. Does this mean it fits the general Famiclone schematics? The controller is wired to pins 1(Orange), 8(White), 9(Blue), 12(Brown), 15(Yellow) but I have no idea how to verify what standard the controller follows.

Skawo

EDIT:
Nevermind, it seems like the diagrams floating on the internet contradict one another, and I can't make out heads or tails of it all.
I did find this, though, which is a diagram showing how to wire up a controller to one of the Dendy clones


(looking at console port)

That seems to match what you're reading on the scope and checking the continuity on your controller.
So... hm.

I remember that I had a famiclone where the buttons of an official Hudson Joycard would only work while one of the D-Pad directions was being held. Is that the case for you?

sys64738

Thanks for the picture. I actually found out something else. It is weird. When both controllers connected the unit does not power on. Pin 15 on left port somehow connected to the pins 1 and 11 on the right port (when nothing is connected). Multimeter just shows direct connection. Was there ever a design like this? - Edit: I mixed the left/right ports up since the board is upside down so pins 1 and 11 on the left port shorting with pin 15 on the right port.

Skawo

You sure the connection between 15 and 1 isn't just a capacitor charging up?
'cause that would be a short between ground and 5v

sys64738

To be sure, I was measuring the voltage between pins 1 and 15. One port is +4.85V other port is -4.85. Pin 1 is 5V instead of pin 15 for one of the ports.

Skawo

Oh, so... they're probably mirrors of each other, then. And the pads are not, so plugging both in makes that short actually happen.

That does not appear to be standard.


sys64738

Thanks for all the info, I really appreciate it. I switched the polarity on one of the controllers. At least it is not  shorting now. Other pins seem to be where they are supposed to be. Still not working though. I will try to find a different controller.

Skawo

Might be worth tracing if the signals actually get to the 368E chips.

Might also be worth trying to add a pull up 1K resistor between 5V and CLK

sys64738

I will do the tracing at some point. I saw that they already put a resistor between 5V and CLK (2.2K) is that too much?

Edit: Or not enough. Here it says PAL controllers had 3.6K resistors. Not just CLK and 5V but also 5V and Latch.
https://www.nesdev.org/wiki/Standard_controller

I will do the tracing first before jumping to conclusions.

Skawo

In my experience 3K was too much for my Famiclones and made it so holding B inverted your D-Pad input, and only the CLK actually needed the pull-up.

But if there's a resistor already there, then I guess it's fine.

sys64738

This is what I gathered with the multimeter:

Left Port PinLeft Chip Pin
1 and 1116 (5V)
127
142
158 and 15 (GND)


Right Port PinRight Chip Pin
18
410
56
612
75
814
93
1516 (5v)

P2 matches what is here: https://www.nesdev.org/Ntd_8bit.jpg
As for P1, I can only read 2 pins on the chip.

Skawo

Huh, so, pin 14 goes to pin 2 on the 368, which should be D0, but pin 14 isn't connected on the joypad side?

Well, uh, cross-reference the Famicom schematic with what you got by tracing out the pins on the board and also the typical famiclone controller schematic and try running some wires?

sys64738

I did a quick test by running the white wire (Pin 8 ) on the controller to pin 14 on the port. That did not do anything. I will investigate more.