Famicom Disk System extra sound channel on NES

Started by keiffer01, February 22, 2008, 08:01:52 am

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nintenthe3rd

I got all the materials needed, though I'm wondering about the capacitor, will the type (electrolytic capacitor) effect anything? Or will the converter mod do just fine with any capacitor just as long as its 4.7uf?

Once again, thank you for all your help.

3Eyeboy

This is the only 1uF non-polarized capacitor that I could get, this thing is huge!!, Can I put the filter inside the NES instead  of the 60 to72 pin converter???




jpx72

Wow that IS one huge capacitor :) You can put it inside your nes, just connect the pins needed inside of your converter and then trace that NES pin inside your NES, cut it and insert the components there.

3Eyeboy

May 26, 2011, 09:00:40 am #33 Last Edit: May 26, 2011, 11:09:10 am by 3Eyeboy
Quote from: jpx72 on May 26, 2011, 08:53:06 am
cut it and insert the components there.


"Cut it"?? do that means that I need to cut traces on the NES?? I thought I only need to join pins 3 and 40 ???

Edit: I decided to go ahead and here is the result, a proof of my poor soldering skills...



I don't know if I placed the ressitor and the capacitor in correct order, the leg coming from the 1uF capacitor goes to the pin3 on the exp. port while the 100k resistor goes to pin 40.


cartridge adapter:


jpx72

Well sorry, no you don't need to cut it when you solder it directly to the exp port pin 3, I was not thinking ahead (read: "i was stupid"), I was thinking about cutting the trace of pin 54 on the cartridge port. But I realized now that the pin 54 trace goes nowhere else than to pin 40 of the exp port. So NO cutting.

You should have component order right...
And? Does it work?

zoast

March 10, 2012, 10:00:31 pm #35 Last Edit: March 10, 2012, 11:29:50 pm by zoast
I did a split channel + expansion audio mod on my NES very recently and this thread helped, thanks!

One thing I had a big problem with was soldering the jumper on the gyromite cart.  Maybe this should be obvious for people that aren't noob like me, but here's a tip I didn't find anywhere - scratch off more of the light green coating and expose more metal above the pins on the converter you are trying to solder to.  You can see what I mean in this picture, where I illustrated on another pin.  As you can see I ruined some of my stuff desperately trying to figure out the solution.


Also, if you are splitting up the audio signals to different jacks (ie squares, tri+noise, expansion), you use pin 40 from the expansion port pins to get that expansion audio (at least for the akumajou densetsu cart and gyromite converter).

Lastly, I believe (but not 100%) that you need to ground the jacks separately, not just hook one up and tie them all to that.
Bah weep gragnah weep nini bong!

Drakon

oh lord that poor converter....

Here's a tip...put electrical tape over the pins before adding solder.  It'll make a nice clean solder job that won't spread over the entire pin:



Also use an exacto knife to scrape off the green masking you want to add solder to and be careful that there's still some masking between the scraped area and the pin otherwise the solder will spread over the entire pin.  The electrical tape is just an added precaution that you should always use.  Think of the electrical tape as temporary masking that works the same way as that green stuff that covers the top of the pins.  Of course you want to rub over the electrical tape many times to ensure it's completely flush against the areas you don't want solder to spread to.

scribblemacher

July 25, 2012, 08:10:54 am #37 Last Edit: July 25, 2012, 01:14:59 pm by scribblemacher
I think I get the jist of this mod, but I have three questions that I'm not understanding:


  • Are there any adverse affects that could happen by doing this mod? Not able to play some US games?

  • What size wire do I need?

  • What size resistor?

  • What type of capacitor?



I snapped off my lock-out pin awhile ago ("This is for all those years of watching blicking title screens!!"), so that's the closest I've come to modding. This mod looks like something I could do but also scary! I'd hate to damage my NES; I've had it for over 20 years.

EDIT:
I've found the following; do these sound right?

Resistor: 100k ohm
Capacitor: 4.7uF

Does the wire gauge not matter because of the resistor?

80sFREAK

wire gauge does not matter. choose one, you have, which easy to work with. bonus, if wire have more heat resistant insulation.
I don't buy, sell or trade at moment.
But my question is how hackers at that time were able to hack those games?(c)krzy

RGB_Gamer

The only real way to play FDS on an NES is with an HES Unidapter. I have one, and if you look at my avatar, you can see what it looks like

scribblemacher

I'm having trouble finding an capacitor that will fit inside the Honeybee. i found a 1uf non-polarized at Radioshack, but it was just slightly too big. I suppose I could cut a small hole in the Honeybee's case, but that wouldn't look very clean.

Will this work if the capacitor and resistor are inside the system between expansion pins 40 and 3 instead? I know someone posted in this tread doing that, but never said it if actually worked.

80sFREAK

Quote from: scribblemacher on July 28, 2012, 06:17:30 pm
I'm having trouble finding an capacitor that will fit inside the Honeybee. i found a 1uf non-polarized at Radioshack, but it was just slightly too big. I suppose I could cut a small hole in the Honeybee's case, but that wouldn't look very clean.

Will this work if the capacitor and resistor are inside the system between expansion pins 40 and 3 instead? I know someone posted in this tread doing that, but never said it if actually worked.
SMD capacitors use, Luke :)
I don't buy, sell or trade at moment.
But my question is how hackers at that time were able to hack those games?(c)krzy

scribblemacher

July 31, 2012, 06:13:08 pm #42 Last Edit: July 31, 2012, 06:55:01 pm by scribblemacher
I attempted this today with the help of my neighbor. Everything looks fine and games still work, but I'm not getting the extra sound channel when testing with Gimmick!

I used a 1uF non-polarized capacitor. Is that the correct size?

Edit: After reviewing our work, it looks like we connected Famicom pin 46 to the capacitor to the resistor to pin 18. The pictures here show it going from pin 46 -> resistor -> capacitor -> pin 18 instead. Does the capacitor-resistor order matter?

80sFREAK

Please be more specific, which things you plugging and where, if you want someones help
I don't buy, sell or trade at moment.
But my question is how hackers at that time were able to hack those games?(c)krzy

scribblemacher

Quote from: 80sFREAK on July 31, 2012, 07:28:57 pm
Please be more specific, which things you plugging and where, if you want someones help



IMG_0039 by dagoss, on Flickr


IMG_0038 by dagoss, on Flickr

That's the inside, It's a little hard to see. Basically, we connected a wire to Famicon pin 46 in the adaptor, then connected that wire to a 1uF capacitor. We attached that capacitor to a a 100k ohm resistor, which attached to a wire, then attached to NES pin 18.

So pin 46 to capacitor to resistor to pin 18. The photos on the first page of this thread have the order of the capacitor and resistor reversed.