Famicom Disk System extra sound channel on NES

[80sFREAK]

keep in mind - there is no sound pin on NES slot inside NES, so you are on the half way

[scribblemacher]

keep in mind - there is no sound pin on NES slot inside NES, so you are on the half way

I'm not sure what you are saying. In the second picture, I connected pin 48 to pin 3 on the expansion slot. Is there another step I'm supposed to follow?

Do the order of the resistor and capacitor matter?

[80sFREAK]

No matter for order, but pins.

So pin 46 to capacitor to resistor to pin 18.

I connected pin 48 to pin 3 on the expansion slot.

What about pin 18 inside NES on cart slot?

[UglyJoe]

What about pin 18 inside NES on cart slot?

Pin 18 on the NES cart slot goes to one of the pins on the expansion port on the bottom of the NES.  A different pin on the expansion port allows for audio input, which is why you have to bridge those two pins in the expansion port.  So, he is effectively modifying pin 18 on the cart slot by modifying the expansion port on the bottom.

[scribblemacher]

What about pin 18 inside NES on cart slot?

Pin 18 on the NES cart slot goes to one of the pins on the expansion port on the bottom of the NES.  A different pin on the expansion port allows for audio input, which is why you have to bridge those two pins in the expansion port.  So, he is effectively modifying pin 18 on the cart slot by modifying the expansion port on the bottom.

That's good to know. So it looks like I got the pins inside the NES right. It's either a matter of

• One of the soldering joints isn't adequate


• There's a fault somewhere (the exposed ends of those wires are kind of big--I put in some electrical tape though)


• My copy of Gimmick! is broke and that's why I'm getting poor sound 
  
• I connected the wrong pins inside the Honeybee (Pin 18 is definately correct as that pin is labeled, pin 46 wouldn't be on the other side of the covertor, would it?)
  
  • I have the resistor and the capacitor in the wrong order (still not sure if the order matters)
  
  
  
  
  What could I be missing here?

[80sFREAK]

2 UglyJoe ok.
2 scribblemacher i don't like idea to use 100kOhm resistor. What is the other parts involved? I can see 2 150 Ohm resistors and ceramic capacitor.

Also it is not 100kOhm, but most likely 1kOhm or 10kOhm.
If you have any audioamplifier, you can check, what's going on pin46 Famicom side


Ummm, why not to solder parts without extra wires?

[scribblemacher]

2 UglyJoe ok.
2 scribblemacher i don't like idea to use 100kOhm resistor. What is the other parts involved? I can see 2 150 Ohm resistors and ceramic capacitor.

Also it is not 100kOhm, but most likely 1kOhm or 10kOhm.
If you have any audioamplifier, you can check, what's going on pin46 Famicom side


Ummm, why not to solder parts without extra wires?

Sorry, the resistor is 1kOhm, not 100kOhm.

The capacitor is 1uF non-polraized with 50 volt maximum and a tolerance of 20%.

I used the extra wires instead of soldering the components directly because that is the directions on the first page of this forum topic. I don't know anything, so I wanted to follow those direction exactly.

[80sFREAK]

Here's a pic of my NASA converter modded for FDS extra sound (click to see full size):

This one? Yours looks a bit messy, but correct. It's better to check with audio amplifier pin46 of Famicom cart. By the way is your Gimmick real thing?

[scribblemacher]

This one? Yours looks a bit messy, but correct. It's better to check with audio amplifier pin46 of Famicom cart. By the way is your Gimmick real thing?

I tested it last night and all the soldering seems fine. However, electricity didn't seem to pass through the capacitor. My neighbor works for an aerospace firm and he's going to take it to work to have an engineer look at it. Talk about overkill!

I'm not sure. Take a look. The label is kind of glossy compared to the other 3 Famicom games I own...

EDIT:

I'm pretty sure it's a pirate. I didn't notice before, but the game starts with 30 lives!


IMG_0001 by dagoss, on Flickr


IMG_0002 by dagoss, on Flickr

[jpx72]

PipeV is a pirate Gimmick, has no extra sound chip inside so no extra sound! WAAAA

[scribblemacher]

Well that explains that! I'll have to get a hold of an actual cart with an extra sound chip to test this.

Though the sound in this pirate cart is awful to the point that it is not playable. It just sounds so bad!

[okame]

I'm trying to get an NES 3 system made. I read an article that said the EXP port was made because Nintendo Of America had filed a U.S. patent for the FDS, but didn't do it because of pirated FDS disks in Japan. My mod would be an NES/FDS/Famicom triple system. Here's a link to a Facebook post: https://www.facebook.com/FamicomDojo. I'm there under Tony Theriault. I'm getting someone to fix FDS and NES consoles for me. Would you be able to do the NES 3 mod? I know from when I had to swap the FDS drive on my Twin Famicom that there's an internal connection for both the Twin and the RAM adapter's wire plug. It probably wouldn't be that hard to not only mod the sound on the NES to match, but to add the internal FDS connection. If you could and would do it, how much would you charge for the mod? I'd buy the Famicom pin slot myself. They're easy enough to get on eBay.

[Sumez]

Now that I've been thinking about getting a PowerPak to replace my FDS, I was wondering if it would be possible at all to get external audio on the top loader. I mean, couldn't you just take the audio output from the cart connector and mix it with the audio on the top loader?

Anyone experiemented with this?
I found this mod, which basically puts an audio wire in the adapter or (repro) cart itself, and mixes the audio directly with the output from the NES, so it goes around the expansion port (which is missing from the Top Loader)
http://callanbrown.com/index.php/castlevania-iii-with-full-famicom-audio
It uses pin 45 ("Audio from 2A03") instead of 46 ("Audio to RF") though - not sure what the difference is, and whether it would work with FDS audio too?

I was thinking a hybrid mod should be possible, so instead of using an external cable, I'd wire famicom pin 45 or 46 to the unused(?) pin 18 on the NES side inside the adapter, as with the mod described in this thread - and then I'd tap into pin 18 in the connector inside the console itself, and mix the audio with the regular audio there, as described in the link above.

This of course assumes we have also AV or RGB modded our top loader, so the RF modulator isn't relevant. No one likes that one anyway.