Famicom AV Modification / Mod

[jpx72]

Forget it.

[famiav]

Can you help me for my problem ?

[P]

I strongly agree with jpx on this. The sticky is not systematic at all and it assumes that the reader knows background details to the whole AV-mod discussion.

5) I know, but you haven't said a thing about lifting the pin 21 in your topic!!

Actually it is briefly mentioned in the sticky along with a pic, but it's totally out of place.

[can you read next few words after "rebuild"? good. read'em again. complete phrase.

It says

To minimize EMI in output video amplifier have to be rebuilt around pin 20 and shield of AV cable have to be connected there.

but that doesn't make much sense. Are we supposed to build the same thing again but from pin 20 this time? That doesn't make any sense to me.

Also it's not mentioned that you desolder the 2SA937 transistor from point Q1 on the board and reuses it in your amplifier. You also refer to allot of things outside the thread like jpx mentioned that is never explained in the sticky.
No matter how much knowledge you have about electronics it doesn't matter if you don't specify everything systematically. What's the point of a sticky if it requires you to know everything that's been discussed already instead of just summarizing it?

[famiav]

I correctly desolder the PPU, there is no damage, no false contacts. To describe the problem, I have a gray image, sound, but the sound is weird (music's boot of FDS is corrupt )

[P]

Grey picture could be due to bad contacts with the cartridge I think. About sound, I think you have to post pictures of PCB.

[P]

Did you read next phrase? You should try to read complete text

The next phrase seems to be a separate step but it's almost impossible to know because you haven't made clear borders between the steps.

below original, existing on PCB's schematics.

This doesn't make any sense at all. Are we supposed to use schematics for the amplifier from elsewhere? If so why isn't it mentioned?

this is not critical

OK you do have a point there.

You also refer to allot of things outside the thread like jpx mentioned that is never explained in the sticky.

for example?

For example you are randomly referring to things about grounding pin 22 with a capacitor. And later you say that you don't need to use a 220uF separating capacitor but a 22uF or 33uF is enough in the "video circuit". But there's no explanation where this information comes from.

sound circuits have nothing to do with PPU

I know that. It would be good for you if you start reading other peoples posts properly before telling people to read yours.

[P]

should i number steps?

Yes that would be one way to do it. And all steps should be in order. Mandatory steps first and then optional steps if any.

can you count up to three? can you see diagrams on sketch above? do you understand phrase "i am after first one with xxx instead of yyy"?

Sorry but "i am after first one with xxx instead of yyy" just isn't very grammatical. Do you just mean that you would try to build the first amplifier in the schematics but with different values of two of the resistors?

not sure if you kidding, trolling or just stupid.... have you seen first sketch? did you read text after?

I guess I'm just stupid then... Yes I read it many times now. This isn't going anywhere...

take is axiom otherwise it will become "why do you use resistor, not capacitor?"

Don't be silly.

it was actually reply not to you, but previous guy.

OK got it.

[P]

No this is just a big waste of time for me and for anyone reading this discussion so I'm ending it here.

[GohanX]

Can you help me for my problem ?

Inspect the soldering of the PPU very carefully, I would suspect that you either have two pins bridged or you may have killed a trace when desoldering. If you don't see anything, get a PPU pinout diagram, a multimeter, and start probing each pin for continuity. The chances of killing the PPU is low, but the chance of killing a trace can be high, especially if heat was applied for too long in the desoldering process. Been there, done that.

[famiav]

I will try what you told me to do. But I can not find a diagram ...

I do think that this is the problem, because when I press the PPU with my finger, I have a picture on the TV (yes, disgusting, but I have a picture!)

[jpx72]

Found an interesting PDF about the NES, you have the PPU pinout there too:
http://www.cs.uiuc.edu/homes/luddy/PROCESSORS/Nintendo.pdf
Post Merge: August 10, 2012, 11:57:55 pm

And you have also sent me (in a PM) different instructions for  rev07, which even included removing one component from board.
SO which should I choose? Is there a need for removing components from board?

The question was a bit different, isn't it? You asked me, how to reduce brightness. Does it worked?

Just last thing to this flamewar No I was reffering to the first PM from me to you about an AV mod. You've sent me a photo of how it should be done.
(I asked you about the brightness just recently, and yes, it worked!)

Anyway just leave this war, I think I have my answers and I will make a tutorial for newbies on my webpage, just after I test it on my famicoms. With all credits to you of course and links to your topic. It will take a while

[P]

Sorry I never intended it to be a flame war I tried to squeeze out some information but it didn't work so well. Sorry famiav to make your request drown in a pointless discussion.

Here is Xious' archive of Famicom schematics he gathered from various Japanese sites: http://atariusa.com/Famicom_Schematics/
There is one for the PPU there.

[Europemodder]

Hi, I have A/V Famicom with PlayChoise 10 chip and now I like to solder RGB cable to my console. So can you tell me the best cable, which I solder to famicom and cable at the other end would have a scart.

And what is good quality SCART to Component converter?
XRGB 3 is very expensive and I think if something cheaper converter make same quality?