Need help modifying a Raphnet Famicom to NES Controller converter

Started by SeanOrange, March 11, 2018, 08:02:04 pm

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SeanOrange

Hi, all!  Been a while since I dropped by.  I'm sorry I've been such a stranger.  I was hoping to find some modification assistance.

I got this wonderful converter online from Raphnet via eBay that lets you use third parry Famicom controllers on an NES.  For that purpose, it works great.  Unfortunately, I did not read the fine print; it does not work wit other peripherals, such as the light gun, which is the purpose for which I bought it.

Does anyone know enough about the NES P2 and Famicom EXT port configurations to let me know what wires so need to put where for this to do what I want.  The ability to use third party Famicom controllers on my NES is entirely useless to me, so if this change makes the two mutually exclusive, then so be it.

This will definitely be used in an upcoming Famicom Dojo video, and whoever is able to help the best will get direct credit (as well as this board as a whole).  I could possibly even throw a t-shirt your way, depending on the sizes I have left! ;)

Thanks everyone for being so awesome for so long.

~Sean
~Sean(Orange)

Retrospectives

Famicom extension is using a simple db15 connector and it shouldn't be very difficult. I did some research (I have not NES) and is quite easy.

Please look at this:

http://nesdev.com/zapper_to_famicom.txt

Since you have acces to wire of db15 is just to de-solder those cables and solder back to correct position as in the diagram in link.  :) Link I sent is for NES gun on FC but is the exact same thing just you use FC Gun on NES.

SeanOrange

Great, thanks!  That's very close to what I need to fully do this on my own.

I'm still not sure which connector is which on the existing configuration.  I suppose I could do some trial and error, but I don't want to fry my consoles.

If you have (or anyone has) a diagram on what the current configuration mapping must be so that I can translate to the one you provided, I would be most appreciative.

EDIT: Actually, now that I think about it, that might not be enough.  Looking at the diagram and the photo, it's possible that the two are not mutually exclusive.  It looks like the "o" wires are the same in both (one is the 5V, one is ground).  It could well be that the two wires ("T" and "S") that haven't been hooked up are all I need to complete the circuit, and I can just leave the remaining three alone.

The only question would be which one is which.  I might have access to a voltmeter.

EDIT 2: Okay, here we go!  I think I am very nearly there.

I found this website:
http://chriskempson.com/posts/nes-controller-to-famicom-adapter/

Which linked back government this very forum:
http://www.famicomworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=3583.msg55602#msg55602
(I am attaching the diagram for the sake of posterity.)

If I'm reading this right, the adapters for P1 and P2 are indeed mutually exclusive; I need to remove pins 13 and 14 and connect them to 7 and 9 respectively.  That should be easy since they are already hooked up, and I can just move them.

Step 2 is to hook up D4(2) to pin 4, and D3(2) to pin 5.  Those are, by process of elimination, the two unused wires in photo 3.  The trick is to figure out which wire is which, and if/when I have access to a voltmeter, I can do that.

Thanks, again!  I'll report back with my findings.

~Sean
~Sean(Orange)

Retrospectives

Here is link to diagram I think you using that adapter:

http://www5b.biglobe.ne.jp/~g-take/nfc.html

I don't know if you can read Japanese but I think is pretty self explanatory. But if you find a better source in English it's good for you.  :)

This is for AV Famicom I think...I have not this system so I don't know, but I found another link with better description in English. Actually it seems it is the exact same seller you bought it from (Raphnet). If that's the case, then you got your original wiring right there.

http://www.raphnet.net/electronique/famicom_to_nes/index_en.php

Ah yes, just rewire them according to my first reply (that must be for 2P right?) and use Raphnet as original reference I think is the best for you. Good luck!

SeanOrange

Excellent!!

Yeah, according to his website a third party controller might use different colors, and as I suspected that's what he used to create mine, because the wire colors in my photo are totally different.  I'll still need a voltmeter to be 100% sure which is which.  (Hey, I have a 50% chance otherwise, right?)

PM me or email your t-shirt size and an address, and I'll get that sent out this week!

Thanks again,

~Sean
~Sean(Orange)

Retrospectives

Ah no problem! I live in Japan so shipping should be too expensive  :-[ Please don't mind about that. I am just glad I could assist even though most of the finds were a result of searching the Internet.

P

Quote from: SeanOrange on March 11, 2018, 09:58:35 pm
If I'm reading this right, the adapters for P1 and P2 are indeed mutually exclusive; I need to remove pins 13 and 14 and connect them to 7 and 9 respectively.

I don't think that would do you any good. Light guns would work but Famicom controllers would stop working. Just let it be wired like P1 and add the extra two lines that the light gun are using (pin 4 and 5 in 133MHz's diagram). That way you can use it both as controller adapter and light gun adapter (including some other peripherals like the Famicom Arkanoid paddles and the Family Trainer if I remember correctly).

And yeah never trust color coding on wires, they are never the same between products. Use the continuity test on a multimeter.

Pikkon

The zapper use 7 wires all together,looks like your cord has 2 wires that are cut,if you can get those connected it should work.

SeanOrange

I don't mind if it doesn't work as a P1 adapter anymore; if I'm that interested, I can always get another one.

I guess I don't know for sure if just connecting those two disconnected wires without moving the other two controller wires that are already connected will be enough.  Maybe it will be?  I can certainly try that first.

Quote from: Retrospectives on March 11, 2018, 11:02:19 pm
Ah no problem! I live in Japan so shipping should be too expensive  :-[ Please don't mind about that. I am just glad I could assist even though most of the finds were a result of searching the Internet.


Ah, that doesn't bother me at all.  But you'll get a shout out on the video once it's done, that's for sure!
~Sean(Orange)

Retrospectives

Quote from: SeanOrange on March 14, 2018, 02:27:38 am
I don’t mind if it doesn’t work as a P1 adapter anymore; if I’m that interested, I can always get another one.

I guess I don’t know for sure if just connecting those two disconnected wires without moving the other two controller wires that are already connected will be enough.  Maybe it will be?  I can certainly try that first.

Quote from: Retrospectives on March 11, 2018, 11:02:19 pm
Ah no problem! I live in Japan so shipping should be too expensive  :-[ Please don't mind about that. I am just glad I could assist even though most of the finds were a result of searching the Internet.


Ah, that doesn’t bother me at all.  But you’ll get a shout out on the video once it’s done, that’s for sure!


Indeed. At least GND and 5+ is not needed to touch, but check multimeter values to determine which additional wire going to sprite detection and which is trigger  :bomb: And yes, I agree with P and everyone else, colour is not per se any indicator unless totally stated.  :)

Pikkon

You need D3 and D4,if you do have the 2 extra wires try and strip them off and like Retrospectives said,use a multimeter,hopefully this works but if it doesn't then move the other 3 wires like clock 1 over to clock 2.

P

Yes light gun sprite/light detection and trigger data are using D3 and D4 lines respectively, so those are most likely the two missing lines on your adapter (normal controllers doesn't use them). I'm pretty sure the light gun doesn't use DATA(x) but I don't know if it needs the CLOCK(x) line. If it does, you need to wire your adapter so it matches the controller 2 in the diagram, and controllers will no longer work with it as a result.

GND, +5V and LATCH are indeed the same on both controllers and doesn't need to be touched.

Also, I think the diagram pictures the port side of all connectors (which means the NES plug end of your adapter will be mirrored).

Retrospectives

Quote from: P on March 14, 2018, 06:11:36 am

GND, +5V and LATCH are indeed the same on both controllers and doesn't need to be touched.

Also, I think the diagram pictures the port side of all connectors (which means the NES plug end of your adapter will be mirrored).


Yes, and since he have ground and +5V etc already in place it should be easy to figure out which wire needs to go corresponding pin as in then he just use the GND and +5V as references to know how reading the diagrams. :)

Vinnk

Just want to say thank you.  And I need to start coming here again more.  This really is one of the best and most helpful forums out there.
My internet TV show [Famicom Dojo] www.famicomdojo.tv   My Japanese Retro Game Store https://japanretrodirect.ocnk.com

Retrospectives

Quote from: Vinnk on March 14, 2018, 07:17:41 am
Just want to say thank you.  And I need to start coming here again more.  This really is one of the best and most helpful forums out there.


+1

As Japanese native I sometimes find other forum jargon very harsh and sometimes even cynical or maybe I cannot understand totally. But here on FW is usually not any drama and people are so friendly and helpful to each other and no matter new or old member, I feel there is totally a good calm down vibe here which in many ways are unique among gaming forums.  :) Maybe because our origins are so diverse. From USA-Thailand-Taiwan-Sweden-Switzerland-Croatia-Bulgaria-Russia-Japan etc etc is important to have a more laid back understanding of having a calm down mindset, and that's what I love about FW.