Plz help me finish a Japanese translation ( Instructions for AV famicom RGB Kit)

[MaxWar]

*I am also posting this request on Assembler games:  http://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?42619-Please-help-me-finish-a-Japanese-translation-%28-Instructions-for-AV-famicom-RGB-Kit%29

Hi, i would like some help (likely from someone fluent in Japanese) to help me finish the translation of the instructions for this Mod kit: I think many here will be familiar with this kit.
I bought the kit from this site:
http://homepage3.nifty.com/F-LABO/ProductsList.html

I have the full version of the kit with audio separation circuit and i obtained a New old stock RGB PPU (RP2C03B) elsewhere.

Now of course the  instructions are all japanese.
I scanned the original instructions.
Used an OCR Software.
Used google translate to figure out the thing.

This method yielded mostly a complete mess of words but i could figure pretty much all of it and have rewritten the instructions in english.

However some parts i could not make much sense of, and there is also the possibility that i missed something important somewhere.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Once the translation is good enough i will make another thread to make the Translated instruction available to all.


Here are the pictures.

First the original scans:
http://i.imgur.com/iqYJ3.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/LdKYj.jpg

Now the translation works i have made:
http://i.imgur.com/6eRme.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jqwhc.jpg

Also, i scanned the blank PCB from the kit:
http://i.imgur.com/awCEB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/jDZ0B.jpg


So I have a very good idea of how to build this thing at this point but there are a few important parts missing.

1. In the part list, there is a place where a line for a resistor is crossed. Looks like they remplaced that part, but not sure what thats all about. Especially with the 0 ohm part.

2. Tool list: I cant figure out what the first tool is.

Step 20: Ok step 20 is empty on my translation, it refers heavily on the diagram above it, which i could not translate because the OCR did not work on it.
Its mostly about the connection of audio and the installation of some Capacitor on connector pins. Heres the text that the OCR software gave me for step 20:

次に音源分離回路の拡張音源部分を配線します。 配線箇所は上図を参考にカードエッジコネクタの、

• 45ピンをC一4 5

•46ピンをC_46 (中間に電解コンデンサ）

に配線します。

このとき、追加部品として、4 6ピン一C_4 6ピンの 中間に電解コンデンサ(10uF)を空中配線します。極性は 46ピン側を+、C_46側を一に接続します。

Step 23 : Step 23 is about some specific tests that are done on the circuitry to make sure everything is all right before you actually power it up. This is important because it can help you prevent frying 400$ of hardware you just bought. However I could not make much sense of the translation i got from google. It involved measuring resistance somewhere and voltage somewhere else but i dont get it specifically.

Heres what the OCR  gave me for step  23

ここで、配線や、I C •水晶発振器を挿入せず に事前チェックを行います。テスターをPPUのICソ ケッ卜に当てます（黒20ピン、赤40ピン)。

この状態で下記のチェックを行います。

a.電源を入れない状態で抵抗値を測る 0Q (ショー卜）でなければ、正常 ※こちらのテスターでは正常時500Q以上

b.   ACアダプタを接続、電源を入れ電圧を測る 5V付近の安定した値であれば正常

このとき、基板が金属等に触れてショートしないよう、 ベニヤ板などの上に本体基板を載せて作業することを忘 れないでください。

(2 4) PPU以外のICと水晶発振

Those are the specific parts that i have problem with. Maybe im forgetting somewhere else ( its getting late)  but anyway if someone who can read japanese could do an overall review of the work i did i would really appreciate.  I just spent several hours doing all this work and i would really like to get it all done properly.

So far I figured more than i translated which means some parts may be quite different  from the original formulation but as long as no key parts are missing it should be good.

The author gives many personal recommendations as how he likes to do things. This is "somewhat" secondary but still helpful. I may have adapted some of these parts to how i would do it myself instead, because a word for word translation was very hard to do. Any help greatly appreciated, I do this for myself but also to help the English modder community who would like to order and use this kit.
Thanks!

[gcfernandez]

Well the first tool is a screwdriver (it shares the last six characters as the second tool which is flat-head). Probably a #2 philips since you need one to remove the motherboard from the case.

[80sFREAK]

step 20 is about sound and step 23 is about "how to plug PPU".
You have diagram, you can build it. If not, tutorial will not help much

[P]

The 0 Ω resistor is just that, a zero ohm resistor with just a black stripe on it. I guess you can just use a jumper though? The kanji in the brackets after the resistors values are just its color codes. 赤 = red, 緑 = green, 黒 = black, 金 = gold etc.

プラスドライバー (purasu doraibaa) is English, so it becomes plus-driver. So probably a plus-shaped screwdriver.
Edit: Oops gcfernandez already basically said that. But it's the last 5 characters ドライバー that says "doraibaa".

[MaxWar]

The 0 Ω resistor is just that, a zero ohm resistor with just a black stripe on it. I guess you can just use a jumper though? The kanji in the brackets after the resistors values are just its color codes. 赤 = red, 緑 = green, 黒 = black, 金 = gold etc.

プラスドライバー (purasu doraibaa) is English, so it becomes plus-driver. So probably a plus-shaped screwdriver.
Edit: Oops gcfernandez already basically said that. But it's the last 5 characters ドライバー that says "doraibaa".

Yeah, i guess i should have figured it was a phillips Screwdriver, as gcfernandez said, its needed to remove the motherboard. I was getting quite tired when i posted yesterday :p
The 0 ohm resistor is not something i have seen before i think ,  I guess its just a jumper in a fancy package :p

step 20 is about sound and step 23 is about "how to plug PPU".
You have diagram, you can build it. If not, tutorial will not help much

Yes, step 20 is about making connections for the sound circuit.  I figured where everything goes but there is only one thing.
It seems to me that you need to cut 4 traces, if that is what the diagram tells you to do, i cant seem to find mention of it in the text.

I think you need to cut :
1. Audio to Av port trace.
2. Composite to AV port trace.
3 the two traces connected to pin 45 - 46 of the connector ( Sound in and sound out )

It would make sense to cut these but i would just like someone to confirm this. I like to be 100% sure of what im doing.

Step 23 does not appear to be about how to plug ppu, that would rather be step 25 no?
Seems to me step 23 is about making some specific verifications with the multimeter, but the translator output is very messy, i cannot figure out exactly what the author wants you to measure.

Thanks for the help so far!

[gcfernandez]

google translation for  パターンカット = pattern cutting...cut pattern (circled traces)



Also it this diagram tells you to wire up sync (pin 3) to that solder spot (since pin 21 on the stock PPU is video out and ends up at that spot before reaching pin 9 of the connector. Since pin 21 on RGB PPU is sync, it will ouput at that spot...but I think because it runs through the stock video amplifier circuit first, it's somehow not very stable and I couldnt get a stable image at all wiring sync from there....so it's best to grab sync directly after the LM1881 in the middle of the kit's board where I circled:



Let me know if  you need help with anything else with the kit.
Post Merge: November 07, 2012, 05:54:54 am
Another thing: step 14 refers to the pins that these triangles point to that need to be trimmed for the 40-pin socket to fit on top:

[MaxWar]

Thanks a huge time Gcfernandez! This is sure to help me, i now know everything i need to assemble the kit. I will probably begin tonight.

There is still those tests on step 23 that i dont know about but i guess if everything is assembled properly all should be fine  

I will update my translation when everything is done, hopefully it can be helpful to others in the future.

Edit : I plan to use mostly S-video output from this kit as my TV does not have RGB but i recently got a PVM so i will definitely give RGB a try, I would need to make some cables though.

[P]

It's not strange that your translator got confused since you might need to know the context to understand what is to be checked and machine translators are not very good at that. Unfortunately I don't have any time to read this so it's hard for me too but I looked on step 22 to get some more background info and there it says something like this:

Use the multimeter to check if the solder that you just soldered have a proper connection and especially check that it doesn't short-circuit with the connection close to it.

Then step 23 goes something like this:

Check it before doing any wiring or soldering of any chips, crystal oscillators and such.
Place the multimeter probes on the PPU socket (black pin20, red pin40) and check the following:

a. Check that the resistance level when the power is off is NOT 0Q (short-circuit). If it isn't 0Q it is normal. ※We measured over 500Q here.

b. Check that the voltage is at a steady level around 5V when the AC adapter is connected and the power is on.

At this time the board can't be touched by any metal objects so please don't forget to place it on a plywood or such when working with it.

I guess it's the black and red probes of the multimeter that has to be placed on respective pins.

I hope you can understand something from this.

[MaxWar]

It's not strange that your translator got confused since you might need to know the context to understand what is to be checked and machine translators are not very good at that. Unfortunately I don't have any time to read this so it's hard for me too but I looked on step 22 to get some more background info and there it says something like this:

Use the multimeter to check if the solder that you just soldered have a proper connection and especially check that it doesn't short-circuit with the connection close to it.

Then step 23 goes something like this:

Check it before doing any wiring or soldering of any chips, crystal oscillators and such.
Place the multimeter probes on the PPU socket (black pin20, red pin40) and check the following:

a. Check that the resistance level when the power is off is NOT 0Q (short-circuit). If it isn't 0Q it is normal. ※We measured over 500Q here.

b. Check that the voltage is at a steady level around 5V when the AC adapter is connected and the power is on.

At this time the board can't be touched by any metal objects so please don't forget to place it on a plywood or such when working with it.

I guess it's the black and red probes of the multimeter that has to be placed on respective pins.

I hope you can understand something from this.

Yes, this makes total sense. Pin 20 and 40 are respectively Ground and +5v. Basically you just make sure the power line is not shorted to ground, which is a perfectly good idea to do.
Also, verifying that the +5v supply is steady before powering the upgrade is not a bad idea. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks.

I feel 100% ready to do this mod.
I think i will start by unsoldering the PPU in my regular Famicom first, to practice before doing it on my more expensive, mint condition AV famicom.
I wanted to socket the PPU on my regular famicom anyway so its all good

[P]

Glad I could help!
It was a quick and dirty translation but I don't see how it could mean anything else than what I said.

[Rosser]

Have you considered adding a toggle switch to cut off the advanced sound module. I've herd that it sounds bad on certain games. It may be something you might want to think about. 

[MaxWar]

Have you considered adding a toggle switch to cut off the advanced sound module. I've herd that it sounds bad on certain games. It may be something you might want to think about. 

I considered it, however i have more troubling considerations right now.  I think the RGB ppu i bought might be faulty.

I finished the mod tonight, all went well, i was ULTRA careful. The modded famicom works but I get flashing screen + corruption when image is scrolling horizontally.
If i put original PPU in socket instead of the mod board, it works just fine. There is maybe a possibility that something is faulty in my mod kit or my assembly but i dont think so, i double checked everything when building it.

[Rosser]

That sucks man did you use a socket for the RGB PPU or did you solder it directly have you ever spoke to that guy dakkon I think his name is. I know he has install these kits a few times but I'm not sure if he's a member here or not.

[MaxWar]

I used a socket, and followed the instructions in the kit to the letter.  
I also spent several hours today doing alot of troubleshooting and at this point im 99.9% convinced the PPU is faulty.
I just had a chat with Drakon and explained him all the stuff i tested and he also think the PPU is faulty, in fact he has seen similar glitching PPU himself.

Well, i think its mostly Ill luck at work... Hopefully ill find a replacement PPU and work something out with the guy who sold me the "bad" one.

[Rosser]

Sorry to hear that
well I guess at least the next instillation will be super quick since you have a socket for the PPU

did you pull the chip yourself or was it sold to you as just the chip